66 head tube!!!!!!!!!!!

Nice!

I had my Thorn down tube and head tube replaced, cost about 300 IIRC.

Bin it!

🙂

Strong (OP’s request) light (relatively), reliable and no strip-kit needed to run tubeless. They seem to stay true longer and better than any other rim I’ve owned. That’s why I’ll be putting another set on my next bike too!

There you go njee that is why I use and recommend them, you may have other criteria for your choice or wheel rim.

Yep!

Get some 819’s and be done with it!

NO frame builder will fill that with silver solder – it’s a new tube or the local tip! or a bit of shed wall art. It’s not the blasters fault either it’s rusted inside out.

Apologies for this crass comment OP and Wwaswas.., but to all the naysayers in the past – Waxoyl/Framesaver IS worth applying – from new if possible.

Some good riding around there, mostly cheeky from what I can remember..but I won’t tell if you don’t! 😉

Subjective but here’s my offering to the thread – paint by me 🙂

Find some new singletrack – don’t tell everyone

Just get it repsrayed, you’ve coped with having bridges this long. What frame is it? A picture would be an idea?

🙂

Let it go – real men fart! 😀

’95 Cindercone leading 47 retro-riders through the Surrey Hills a couple of weeks back….

Lake!

I think I’ve still got my name on Mather’s list, that was 18 months – 2 years ago now, he’s not answering emails so I’ve given up. Second the Roberts – if it ain’t road don’t go there – been there done that – disaster!

Made a decision yet…….

I always like seeing pictures of that brown and cream Mather! Shame it isn’t possible to see the gallery from his orignal website, the new mobile-me gallery in nearly all roadie and ghastly ti. Progress eh! 😉

I’m going to be controversial here; I think Buddies (take away seafront) does the best chips – wouldn’t eat anything else there though – unless pi$$ed! Bankers – yep that’s good, and then the Chip Basket in Hove (best eaten with a bottle of dry cider on the beach). Riddle & Fin that’ll be an experience if you’ve the cash!

My twopence worth anyway…

It’s a fact Horsham has the best fish and chip shop in the south! 😉

Keep strong and damage that cancer. Best wishes for you and your family at this tough time.

Don’t go for welded then fillet brazed over the top, you really don’t want two times reheating if possible, plus it will be harder/ with less oportunitues to repair it in the future, not many or any frame builders with take that on – sounds similar to Rourke’s suggestion when someone recently enquired about a brazed frame? if they haven’t the confidence to braze it on it’s own I would walk away.

If you decide on Roberts email me first and I can tell you my recent experience of getting a mtb frame made!

18 Bikes are Tig only – innovative though 🙂

I think with that travel requirement and UK FB etc – it’s Curtis (they braze only but don’t file /blend the fillet) or Demon.

I would suggest rethinking the travel may be the way forward. I can do most things and faster in most cases on my FB 100mm than my 5spot. Just don’t haul it off ‘proper’ jumps because I respect and enjoy it too much to wreck it.

It is a mine field, be cautious. You may find going over to the Frame building forum more informative.
🙂

Rourke don’t fillet braze – tig!

I don’t think their mtb frames look right imo.

You’re going to find it hard to get more than 100mm suspension corrected frame, especially in fillet braze. I don’t know exactly why that is.

I’ve an Enigma fillet brazed mtb, it’s made of Columbus tubing, but they will do 853 that’s what custom is all about. If you google my name I’m sure I’ve posted many pictures of it, or google the STW reviews – it’s the actual one that I’ve repainted myself.

There is a guy called Kevin Sayles who now works at Woodrup Cycles, he does some mind blowing custom frames, not sure how clued up he is on mtb geometry though. Unlike road bikes you really do need to know what you want in custom mtb frames.

Shand Cycles do some nice fillet brazed custom mtb frames, they’re Scottish – not sure if falls within your brief or not.

From my own personal experience – don’t go to Croydon for a custom mtb frame – that’s all I’m saying. 😉

tops 5 – you’ve sanded that top tube right(!) that’s not from your legs is it?

Blur

I remember speaking to Alan on the phone many years ago before the internet took off, I quizzed him on the riding and location and thought it wasn’t for me. Then, it did appear fairly low grade riding and I didn’t fancy staying in Fuengirola! I went with Ciclomontana which was basic in terms accom and location (not in a bad way) but the riding was superb, I returned with a group of mates the next year ”bonkers mountain biking” as one guest desrcibed it – just how I liked it! 😉

It must be a hard thing to do, bringing back loads of memories for you. Condolences to you and your friend’s family.

Crane sheds are bespoke but pricey with it. I’d have one if I could afford it!

That does look better David!

Bendy top tube riders – how are you finding standover and general clearance when riding?

Thanks, that is the most commented on thing 🙂 – painted them at work with the frame – which was the actual one (satin black demo) that STW tested in the mag.

The DB didn’t work out unfortunately, real shame but that’s another story altogether!

Cheers

Here you go Simon – it’s all in the wrist action don’t you know! 😀

http://www.rohloff.de/en/technology/workshop/videos/sprocket_tool/index.html

Made in Sussex

Simon – really there is no need to use a hammer – have another look at the Rohloff video. It’s easier than me trying to explain. When you put the sprocket back on, a smear of grease on the threads will make life easy for you next time.
The Rohloff tool is just to lock the hub, and held in place with the Q/R and an adjustable spanner, all the torque – in a snap action – goes through the chainwhip. I use the Park one myself

Put the hammer away, really so unecessary! 🙂

No no don’t bash it with a hammer! to get the sprocket off!!ffs!!!

If you look on the Rohloff site there is a short video which shows how to remove the sprocket. It’s a piece of pi$$ if you do it right. You’ll need the Rohloff tool, and chain whip and a large adjustable spanner – not a frickin hammer!

I’m pretty sure they do both have cowled dropouts. The Genesis has actual Breezer dropouts and the Soul, has Breezer style! File off the cowl where needed?

I haven’t bought that for years, apart from one issue where I was informed a match box size picture of me was in it!

It’s quite vacuous on the whole – I always flick through it at the supermnarket, in case there is anything of interest to buy it for.

I’ve worn out two pairs of 32 Vans, both lasted over 3 years, but I have to admit I didn’t know how to look after them then.

I have another pair of 32 Vans and a pair of floats. I change the oil and seals once a year, and put in top grade fully synthetic motorcycle fork oil (Plutoline is my choice) and add more than the recommended amount – soak the foam seals to saturation etc and they have been superb.

Also have a pair of Rev’s 426 coil on another bike, which are starting to wear regardless of servicing and lower lubes – about 3 years old. I would say not much in it regarding longevity, but the Fox feel much nicer on the whole and are noticably lighter imo!

Don’t know if that helps any. I’d say you’ve been unlucky, and they haven’t been best looked after.

yes

Never silicone!

Dry wax lube on geared bike in the summer. My own blend in the winter.

waaaay tooooo big for me! Madness, although one chap did do it – twice – just!!

I doubt I could find it again if I was insane enough to want to.. 🙂

Possibly moving to Lewes next year

Why, what have you done?

Are you staying in the big Victorian pile at the top of the hill. Just at the start of the downs, great views. Downside – access can be problematic!