I bought a bike years ago through my company. It’s just the same principle as buying a car (cheaper hopefully). The amount depreciates each year and is offset against your tax a similar way each year, as with other assets. I can’t much remember the fine details, but it’s all zero’d out now and my accountant was quite happy with it – after initial wincing at the amount (he didn’t realise bikes cost that much). I only put a proportion of it through, as I didn’t want to take the piz and get it flagged up.

No experience of bike to work scheme, it didn’t exist then.

Retrobike is where to look as well as evilbay

A good Colnago Master from the 90’s say 1000-1500 at the moment not any less. Also, consider Dura Ace as surprisingly many Italian bikes were fitted with Shimano. My 7410 series DA is superb and every bit as blingy and pantographed as Campg

I have a Master, and as I’m not a committed roadie it inspires me to use it – I start to enjoy it before I’ve even clipped in!

I can’t believe you made me Youtube that!

Saying that, I do have to agree with Gordon Ramsey’s comment regarding sweating! ahem…

Sounds normal to me – you’re fine

She’ll need some pipe lagging on the top tube to prevent minge strike

[did I really say that]

I thought Hed-doctors were made of soft cheese anyway….

It’s good to have a choice, remember those “lamp-post” seat posts that taller riders used to have on their 26ers. But I don’t think wheel size should become a universal standard.

Like head tubes, how many variants do we have, do we need bigger, how many busted head tubes have you seen on xc/cx/road bikes for example! ?

Sponsored riders ride what they have to. I know of some female sponsored riders, 5’3″-5’4″ and they were given 29ers because that’s what the brand were marketing.

I can’t see how performance in wheel size as the OP suggests can be measured on anything other than road, as there are so many variables on the dirt. To say my mate is quicker on such a wheel size and slower on others, only proves that he prefers a certain type.

Masses of variables to make it in any way accurate to calculate. Faster in one way and slower in another is my opinion of all wheel sizes. Choose one that suits your riding preference, or multiples if you’re fortunate enough to afford them.

I ride 26 on the dirt, because I’m 5’8″ for a start, and more importantly perhaps, is that I love tight, super tight twisty single track. Gravity singeltrack and open descending yep, bigger wheels do seem more capable from what I’ve observed.

I liked him, not 100% sure on his views either, but his strong stance diluted the blandness of politics. I’d like to see Boris’s tribute later…

I work on classic cars, and I have seen this before on Alu panels where the white powdery dots actually go through when you strip off the paint. It is very unusual though.

Whoa – bin it now!

posh pub bike or an in-house ribbing perhaps….

Good on you OP, taking control in this situation gives you a sense of direction, and is a stepping stone on the path to recovery. Keep it civil, keep virtuous. Best wishes

:lol:made me chuckle Alex. Yes, you have the idea, I would think <0.5mm in places, which incidentally is similar to my Enigma to give perspective

I always nod or say hi, I get a bit of a mixed response. Most seem a bit unsure of themselves, and whether that should say hi – not unlike walkers really. The older guys seem more friendly, the young guns on their plastic rockets not so, but that’s not stereotyping everyone.

Reading anything by the Dalai Lama would be a good start. You could also pick up a book on NLP whilst you’re at the book shop – re-framing situations will help loads. Good luck you can do it!

The deed is done, back from a 13 mile pootle around the woods of Box Hill. Too early to tell what difference it has made, and I could have stayed out for much longer, which I’m taking as a good sign *crosses fingers*. I feel much happier though, a couple of lovely dry descents were had!

Good luck with everyone else’s cold/flu – here’s to summer!

hahaha – xcretro, I have up to now done exactly that but, this being my third cold in 12 months (all quite chunky) I’m starting to feel as though I need to listen to my body a bit more as I age. Dilemma!

Haven’t made it out yet, dropped off in the chair after snot jettison night time activities. Think I’ll watch some crap television and reassess later afternoon – maybe a pootle will help heal the mind more than the body!

Interesting observation, that the early morning people were all for riding with a cold, late morning definitely not so. Does that mean that early risers are more prone to risk taking than later risers? Could be a topic of research for someone…… 😉

Does the Dalai Lama frequent this forum? He’d have the answer.

Some great as in responses I want to hear so far – thanks!

Pulse is definitely higher, can feel it without checking. Had the cold in a very mild form for over a week – perhaps week and half. Have been riding but keeping to a low to moderate output when I have to (climbs), which has been fine. Thought it was going to pass soon, then yesterday just masses of nasal congestion and complete snot-fest. Not coughing…yet, so think I’ll try for another mild ride later, and hope for a longer effort tomorrow when it’s proper sunny.

Don’t think I’m up to 105 resting pulse, perhaps 70-80 as a guesstimate

Am I right in saying that Burls just design in the UK and all frames are outsourced abroad? If that doesn’t bother you then fine, just thought I should mention it.

I think the Enigma is still looking tops for your requirements op. In steel of course 😉

I do own one (mtb) and have spent some time there, both as a customer and on business. I think they’re pretty transparent with things, and work is pretty good. I’m sure there are better but you may have to go to USA for that.

For what it’s worth I had some real problems with the Croydon builder mentioned, when I ordered a custom mtb recently – had to abort the order things got so bad. I accept that road are more their thing but the experience I wouldn’t want anyone to go through. Having been a customer I could not recommend them.

I’ve got an old Colnago Master circa 1995. It is a lovely thing, a wee bit heavy and classic square (top tube same length as seat tube) which isn’t ideal for me, but as a classic it’s fun to own and ride.

I’d go for the Enigma from your list. The Condor would be a consideration only if the geometry suited – it doesn’t for me.

The Enigma stainless would likely be Columbus XCR as they do like the brand. I’m sure you could spec 953 if you want, that’s the beauty of custom. I’ve no idea which is better, but I ride Columbus Life on my hardtail and it feels way nicer than my other 853 bike. I would most likely go for the custom Elite made from Columbus Spirit, fillet brazed.

Nice dilemma you have! 🙂

sideshow – you mean the first answer that vaguely agrees with you more like 😉

I do think it’s down to weight really, and as most bike riders are likely to be not obese, the likely hood is that shorter riders may select less travel, as they are likely to be lighter in general. Which kind of agrees with you in part but not for the reasons you suggest/caculate.

andyrm, assuming you’re both riding bikes that fit you. You on a medium 26″ and your mate on a large 29er, both identical abilities, I can’t see how your mate would be able to work the bike more. He may be able to roll over rocks a bit better on a 29er but that’s all I can see…

Getting back to your original question of *need* I would say no. There is so much difference in rider style and ability that makes the minutia of whether a shorter rider *needs* any different travel, as you describe, invalid.

Set your suspension to suit your weight, adjust rebound to taste as we are getting pedantic – ride – ride more/improve. If you reach world class level then perhaps your mathematics could be examined further. 🙂

You’ve seen my house then theflatboy 😆

It’s quite easy to resist working trust me!

I think the comment that the paint will last longer than the anodising is so true. I’ve just worn out a new set of uppers this winter – grrrr!

It’s down to weight and ride style rather that how tall you stand. Not everything is linear and related to leg length!

To summarise: what theflatboy said!

The only way I can see that can be repaired properly (other than a temporary job) is to put a sleeve over the seat tube and re-attach the seat stays to it. A big job imo and you got to love the frame. It should’ve had ideally, some sort of reinforcement to the top of the seat tube in the design to take the load of the offset seat stays – in my opinion of course. The top frame builders, Pott’s, Soulcraft and the like, fusion weld a head tube equivalent in thickness piece into the top of the seat tube to cope with this.

I may be proved wrong so good luck in finding a repairer

I’m based near Gatwick walla24, classic car restoration is what I do

No where near Alex, just accumulating parts as and when I have the spare cash

Looks like cost price was a good guess by me, if I don’t say so myself! 😉

I wanted Steve to make a fork for my Soulcraft but he backed out, saying he didn’t make for suspension corrected frames. I’ve got a used Salsa Cromoto coming in the difficult to get 440mm a-c size. I’ll paint it to match my frame.

They look great, very subtle – perhaps too subtle but you will know it’s there under the mud and that’s all that matters.

I did mine (I paint cars) to match my custom Soulcraft, in fact I pretty much paint all my forks to match bikes – just because I can that’s all.

It wasn’t that long ago that everyone on here ‘seemed’ to be riding bikes a size too small – 16″ frames (26 wheel of course) for riders 6ft tall. Apparently, it was the way to go. Now, it’s ride a bike a size too big.

I hope the 26 stays through the course of marketing and marketing driven fashion

Just to add big wheels are good – if you’re well, big!

🙂

I think you may be in for a shock then (no pun intended) a Potts fork is more like 600-800 dollars from memory…..

Lime is nice to use, I found it easy pointing the stone and brick of my place – 400 years old. If you have any concerns over it’s application then I also suggest going on a course, do what you can yourself to save some money.

Good to hear so many people understanding the importance of lime over concrete on old structures. It was a different story just as far back as the 90’s. 🙂

Interesting, as I prefer 100mm forks for singletrack – anything more and the bike is too slow in and out of the tight stuff imo, I’m not finding that a problem. Plus I have lots of old forks that I’ll get new stantions and bushes fitted to, rather that replace – cheaper too – slightly!

On my full suss bike, yep I have to admit that I’d have to go taper or 44mm to get the travel. But, as skinny steel is my favourite ride I’ll not lose any sleep over it! 🙂