No!

Buy the correct sized ones

http://www.customcutspokes.co.uk

Can get any size you need, and as many as you need.

Its pretty straight forward to do, pull out the U shape wire out from underneath then just pull the button out then replace the few O-rings.

What kit did you see for £35? RockShox don’t supply any rebuild kits for the remote.

That Nextie website seems pretty similar to a lot on AliExpress / Alibaba!

I got a set of 30mm Asymmetric 29er rims at the start of the year from AliExpress (Velosa), built up fine and ran then up to now, now changed bikes and just built up another set with some 35mm rims, I’m pretty light on stuff so happy to take a chance with them.

Rode it a few year ago on the hardtail. As said, the top section is a bit to sketchy really but after that the rest of it is spot on. Definitely worth a go.

Yes, all ready to fit

Can you pull the seat / inner post back up by hand?

Is it a B1 post? Chances are the snap ring has corroded and the insides have popped out the bottom. As long as there are no interuptions in the seat tube (bends / pivots) then it should be ok? May need a new hose if its been crushed / kinked.

Edit: saying that, I had one in recently that the snap ring had failed, the inner bush had also popped out the end of the outer post and the seat clamp / cradle had damaged the wiper seal / top cap

I have some Stainless Steel snap rings available if you need one.

I looked into this the other month, i’d also say M7x1.00 Left hand

Works Components. Used them a few times on various bikes, UK made, Good quality, Quick delivery and cheap !!

What’s Doddick Fell like, all ridable? Compare to anything else in the Lakes?

Just fitted one a few week ago, done a few Lakes rides with it and it seems fine, a few pals also run one on the front.

Ullock Pike via Dodd Wood / White stones isn’t a bad route, done it a good few times last summer as an evening ride. Also Whinlatter / Grizedale Pike / HobCarton is a good shout, as is Blencathra, park at Threlkeld, up Blease Fell thenonto Blencathra and down Scales

Sorry to bump up an old thread, but I’ve got a sample of these clips coming this week, if they are ok i’ll have a few available, they’re stainless as well, so won’t rot away like the original.

Bought some bushes from Bearing Boys the other week, cut them down on the lathe last week and fitted a pair to my own Reverb.
The Top bush knocks out no probs.
I left the new bush in one piece (no slot cut) and made a press tool, went in no probs, cut a slot in the lower bush and fitted that as normal.
Greased them both with Slick Honey as I would with the standard ones, feels spot on, no stiction / binding, I think there might be a slight be more fore / aft play with the new bushes in, maybe not as a good a tolerance fit as the originals? But, at least these one piece bushes will stay together with no risk of metal on metal.
Far from perfect fix, but i’m happy with mine so far.

Cheers, I’ll give them a go

Cheers, did you slot the upper bush like the OP or did you leave it solid?
What did you lube it with? I use Buzzy’s Slick Honey on Reverbs with the standard bushes, also used it with the PTFE upper bush and that ran ok, don’t like the idea of it running dry, your going to need some lube for the brass keys.

Cheers

gravesendgrunt
How did you get on with the bearings from BearingBoys? What was the fit like in the top cap? Post move freely enough?

Cheers

I looked into bushes from Igus I while back but didn’t bother due to the correct height not being available, I got a local Hydraulics place to supply an upper bush in PTFE, I’ve currently got it fitted to my own post and its been fine for a good few month now, i’d of liked it to be a slightly tighter fit in the top collar than what it is.
Look forward to reading more
Cheers

Aye, there’s a footpath, ride able apart from a couple of steep carry downs / ups. The zigzag decent on Sail is a bit shit, there’s starting to be a trodden path to the left to straight line it, wet and boggy this time of year though.
Rode this part a few times this year to link Grisedale Pike with Stoney Croft / Causey Pike

Everyone’s got an opinion, here’s mine ….
instead of going by Coledale Beck, you could ride up Whinlatter then up the South then up Grisedale Pike, you can then decend off the backside to Coledale Hause, carry on and do Whiteless Pike and back up Gasgale Gill then come down the (rocky) path towards Force Crag Mine / Coledale Beck.
The decent off the side of Grisedale Pike / Hobcarton is very wet / washed out at the minuet and very muddy once you drop back into Whinlatter.
Which ever you do i’m sure it’ll be cracking

I’ve got a 2015 Works (same geo as 2016?), absolute cracking bike, only issue is rear tyre clearance. I run a 2.25 Maxis Ardent and its tight.

32T with a 10-42 cassette, riding in the Lakes. Originally had a 30T on but found you were going that slow with it you had no momentum to get over things!

Hi, did anyone manage to find any replacements for the upper bush? I’ve searched online but drawn a blank for anything in the correct size.
Cheers

Cheers for all the replies guys.
I borrowed a temperature probe from work today, checked it on each of the 3 feeds from the zone valves just before the pipework (white pipe – polypipe?) goes into the wall / floor, all 3 where around 48 to 50 degrees, so it does seem that the UFH runs at the same temp as the radiators !!
I also checked the kitchen floor and that was between 34 to 36 degrees, the bathroom floor (without the tiles) was around 22 to 24 degrees !!
I’ve never had UFH before so just assumed it was all as warm as the kitchen is, hence why I was thinking the bathroom floor wasn’t very warm … i’m guessing the bathroom floor being around 22 to 24 degrees isn’t bad for UFH?
Other than the cracked tiles in the bathroom (caused by heat? flexing boards?) we haven’t had any issues with the heating at all in the 18 month we’ve been in, and I think the whole system has been fitted for around 6 year. By the sounds of it the way its plumbed in isn’t ideal? But is it going to come to any harm the way it is? Whats the worst than can happen?
Cheers

I’m far from an expert but just been looking into the layout of the pipes (boiler is in the garage and can trace the pipes along the back wall/kitchen floor). The heating flow pipe comes out of the boiler then splits off into 3 separate pipes each with it’s own zone valve, labelled up as Radiators, Bathroom (UFH) and Kitchen (UFH), I can’t see any other type of valve (or anything else) in the pipework before it goes into the wall/kitchen floor. All 3 pipes ‘feel’ the same temperature.
By the sounds of it this isn’t the correct way, and if anything the water feeding into the UFH is to hot?
The UFH in the bathroom is only about 1.5m2 at the most. I’ve just lifted a couple of boards at one end at the minuet (Loo will need to come out to get the rest up) but from what i’ve seen there is Celotex boards (sitting on batons?) then the screed (set hard like concrete) with the pipes running in it.
Increasing the boards to 25mm will make it more sturdy for the tiles, but surely there would be even less heat getting through to the tiles above?
Not sure if I could do away with the boards and just have the screed directly on top, not sure how sturdy the rest of the floor is?
I’m guessing its the wooden boards thats blocking the heat from coming through to the tiles? or the heat is just vanishing into the rest of the floor space between the joists?

Cheers

You need to identify what make of underfloor you have and whether the floor construction you have is suitable.
Sounds a strange floor make up to me, not sure that it is ideal. There are some boards you could use instead of wood that would be much better as they offer some thermal mass

Make of underfloor heating? No idea, it just runs straight from the boiler (no separate manifold) and just comes on with the radiators.
I agree it seems far from ideal, but its what we’ve got and not really in a position to rip it all out and start again, don’t want to risk damaging the dining room ceiling beneath either.
When the tiles were down, the heating took the chill off the floor but I wouldn’t say it was warm (like the kitchen is), was just hoping there was some way to improve it slightly while the floor was up.
Cheers

I machined an extender from a bit of ally bar for a set of Pikes I have, 50mm deep into the steerer and 17mm extension, fitted with some liquid nitrogen and 648 Loctite
6 month of Lakes riding and I haven’t died … yet!

I built a 10′ x 12′ the last year, used C16 4×2 for the floor and C16 3×2 for everything else, I put them at 400mm centers, didn’t insulate it but wrapped the frame and roof with Tyvec before I clad it then boarded the inside with 9mm OSB.

I’m 5’5 and ride a (2015) medium. Whyte say a medium is to suit 5’6 upwards, fits me fine, they have a long top tube but a short stem.
Cracking bike

Keep an eye out on local selling pages, Facebook etc … I’d always fancied one and just happened to spot one locally, a guys father had passed away and was having to clear out his house / garage, he was just wanting shot of things.
I paid £550 for a Myford Super 7 with a base, loads of attachments, tools, spares, ally / steel / nylon bar, original receipts / manuals, even loads of hand written notes / photos. I don’t know what half the things are to be fair, but its a cracking machine and its nice to know that some proper old boy has tinkered on with it for years.
Good look in finding something, there are some bargains out there.

Done it loads with M475 / M525 hubs, saves rebuilding the whole wheel, just use a donor hub and transfer the lot over, axle / cones / freehub / bearings … cups drift out and press in no probs.

Cheers, i did come across that, it was the fact that the eyelet sizes on the shock didn’t seem to tally up with the DU bush sizes.
Got some 15.07mm bushes on the way, so we’ll have a weigh when they turn up.

Nah, there’s still signs of the black anodising inside the eyelets, so they haven’t been enlarged.
Just having another look at it, original DU bushes are different thickness, one measures around 0.98mm and the other 1.16mm, so looks like originally one was 14.7mm and the other was 15.07mm
Still doesn’t help that 14.7mm bush is still abit loose in the smaller of the eyelets though, i’ll sort some 15.07mm bushes and have a weigh up, can always open the eyelet up to suit the larger bush.

Cheers

I added some tokens and lowered the pressure at the same time, so can’t give a back to back comparison between 120 & 130, I was concerned about the front end feeling light on steep climbs but it feels fine. If you’ve got a spare shaft you can shorten then give it a try.

I’ve got a 2015 T129, I upped the travel on my Pikes to 130, I had them apart to service them and happened to have another airshaft kicking about so thought i’d give it a go, still rides spot on, no negative effect on the handling.

Chain ring looks fine (SRAM X Sync), maybe i was just unlucky? I thought that with it not feeling as strong as my Shimano mech then that could be the cause. Ill give it a few more rides and see how it goes.
Couldnt find much info on the 2.1 clutch, 2.0 appears to be servicable / adjustable, 2.1 appears to have a pin pressed in … not sure if thats to lock the internals or to lock the T55 bolt, dont really wanna bust anything forcing it off.

Cheers

Cheers guys

Beaver 2.2, mountain king 2.2 all fit and are good in wetter conditions. Ardent 2.25 for the summer.

I’m guessing its quite tight with the Ardent in, what model year did you have it fitted in?
Anyone confirm that a 2.25 Ardent will fit a 2015 works scr?

Cheers

I know this, but its not exactly local. I’ve got a feeling its gonna be on the big side.
If a few folk say they are a similar height and it fits, then it might be worth the trip, if they are saying its to big then I won’t bother.

Cheers guys