I’ve never found any of the GXP adaptors that great.
In the past I machined a spacer to press on the GXP axle so it was all 24mm, then used some RaceFace 1mm shims to take up any play / preload the bearings.

Spend enough time struggling on with it and you might get them out eventually, 2mm hole in one bolt, use an old spoke and knock the opposite one out. The hole isn’t going to cause an issue to the bolt.
5 mins and your sorted!

I built some up for a customer (customer supplied the hubs), SuperStar sent out some replacement pawls early on (FOC Upgrade)
He also had issues with the ratchet ring stripping the thread in the hub body & the rear axle also snapped.
Not great, but to be fair to SuperStar they replaced all faulty parts.

Had that before on bikes in the workshop, ended up drilling a small hole down the center of one bolt then using a small drift to knock the opposite bolt out.
Once one bolt it out, you can hold the threaded ‘nut’ section with an allen key to unscrew the last bolt

Stitch it with Dental Floss, stick a patch on it then cover with Loctite 5910 gasket sealant- inside and out.
Will last the life of tyre and still run fine tubeless.

Joes Super Sealant for me

The pivots at the top of the seatstays are bushings, I had a customer bring one in a few month ago, had quite abit of play in that pivot, the Bush had also been moving in the carbon link causing that to wear aswell.
I’d be stripping it and giving it a clean once a month if your riding in shitty conditions.

Mine landed in about 12 days, fitted it the other day, can’t fault it for the price, even at twice the price it be good.

Kinetic bike bearings are usually pretty good, if they don’t list a kit, I usually just strip the frame then measure all the bearings and order individually, usually next day delivery to.
If you any where near North Cumbria I’d happily do it for a competitive price.
Have a look for RM Cycleworks on Facebook

https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/illness-cnc-pedals.htm

Some comments on SuperStars Facebook post that these were intended for Sick … but they didn’t pay!

Pretty sure they are Stainless 71806 Enduro bearings, have a look Kinetic Bike Bearings website, Stainless Enduro bearings aren’t cheap.
You could fit the non stainless version tho.

The whole point in the conical washers being above the caliper on +20mm post mounts is that the two mounting surfaces aren’t parallel, so without the conical washers above the caliper, the bolt heads bends as it’s not square to the mount.

Uber bike do replacement Eagle jockey wheels

Aye I also use a Dualco grease gun and use Mobil XHP222 grease in the large cartridges.
Once you remove the ring pull from the grease cartridge, I made a 10mm thick plastic disc to match the ID of the grease cartridge and put a 20mm hole in the middle of it.
Press the disc in to the top of the grease cartridge, then with the empty grease gun pot upside down, just press it against the plastic disc, grease comes up thru the hole and fills the gun !!
I then just chop off the top of the grease cartridge and it’s ready for the next time.

If your running a single ring up front, why not just fit a smaller ring?

I think you’ll struggle to find a lockring to fit the 13t sprocket, and also the lowest sprocket has serations on it to grip the lockring, most 13t sprockets won’t have them.

TomB
My mate’s YouTube vid is a bit long, but shows a go pro view of the Ullock Pike bit from Sunday night:

Good video, I took a bit of a tumble towards the bottom (the easy bit!) a few week ago, at about 12 mins in the video, good to have another look at the trail.

We done it starting at Hawes Water.
Nan Bield, Mardale Ill Bell, High Street, Thornthwaite Crag, Frostwick, Ill Bell, Yoke, Garburn Pass, Kentmere then back up and over Gatescarth Pass.

If your wanting a shorter option, then park at Dodd Wood and ride up the main path towards the summit, then pick up the footpath to the left that takes you to ‘White Stones’ from there follow the footpath up to Carlside Tarn / bottom of the Skiddaw Screw, then just follow the ridge line as normal.

It will be absolutely fine with 3 tokens fitted.

H&J Supplies (Moore Large) cover most workshop stuff, Jagwire / KMC etc …
Kinetic Bike Bearings, Custom Cut Spokes…
A lot of places weren’t interested when I started out (home based workshop), but once you get a few smaller accounts on board and get yourself on Facebook / Instagram so folk can see your doing a propper job, get yourself to some trade shows and speak to some suppliers, I’ve been doing it for a couple of years now and over that time got accounts with ZyroFisher, Extra UK, SilverFish, Upgrade, Ison and plenty others.
A lot of places have a minimum buy in on your first order which can be tough to do, plus there’s minimum orders to get carriage paid, sometimes Trade price plus VAT & carriage can be more expensive than the likes of CRC / Tredz etc …
Blatant plug … RM CYCLEWORKS on Facebook/ Instagram

Message sent

Broke my leg on Ullock Pike last Thursday evening, stretchered off by Mountain Rescue, lower / right Tibia spiral fracture, 4 days in hospital, now got a rod down the middle of the bone and a few screws, out of action for a while i’d say.
Sick as f*ck !!

It’s a good kit, I got one a while ago, certain frames where you have good access to push all the bearings out, this will halve the time on the job.
It’s not a do it a kit, still good to have slide hammer and Wheels / Unior type bearing presses along side this kit.
There’s a few bearings that it doesn’t cover though, can’t mind which ones of hand.

The bladder is just the rubber part, it slides over the bladder housing which then screws into the top cap and lower section of the damper.
I can’t really see how it could bend in situe, could easily be damaged if dropped while the cartridge was out.
The rebuild kit won’t include anything to replace bent parts, not even sure if individual damper parts are available, might be a complete damper.

A non drilled rim bed will make lacing abit slower!!
I can imagine that being an absolute pain in the arse!!

I used to use some 40mm WTB tape, then cut it down to size in the lathe, held the tape in the chuck then had a dodgy Stanley knife mounted to part the tape off, used to work ok, but this Tesa tape is far less hassle.
It only comes in 25mm, I just overlap to cover the width, always been fine.

Tesa 4288 tape, 25mm, had some pretty good results with it so far.

Not sure how much material there is to play with, but drill it out and helicoil it.

Seen a few different sealants at the Cycle Show at the NEC, one was by a brand called MaXalami, that actually had on the bottle that it was made by OKO, there was also identical looking stuff in an identical bottle by Halo, which also looks the same as the UberBike stuff and has the same bottle.
Also been told that OKO (used) to make Peaty’s sealant and make MucOff sealant.
I know that doesn’t answer your question, but the UberBike stuff and Peaty’s is shite!

Start at Glenridding, up Helvellyn via Kepple Cove / Lower Man, decend Birkside to Whythburn Church, along to the top of Dunmail Raise, up the FootPath to Grisedale Tarn then decend back down to Patterdale.
Cracking ride

The 5wt Teflon Infused lube is specifically for the Grip Damper, the damper is not sealed it can vent / induce the lower leg fluid,  so the fluid needs to match what’s in the damper.

Enter the 4 digit code on your fork on the Fox site and it’ll give you all the details of what to use.

I’ve had a good few bearing kits from QBikes, spoke to Nick a few times, helpful guy. I’d say it’s all genuine fluids, he just decants them in to smaller bottles.

I’ve got a Berlingo, leave just a single seat in the rear and you’ll have plenty room.

Guessing you guys are wanting to upspec to the newer SKF IFP?

I’ve got plenty in the workshop, could do them for £6 Posted (payment via PayPal) or I’d do a pack of 10 for £40 Posted.

Cheers folks, gives me a few to look at.

Using a 3/32 KMC Chain, its for a pal, he’s always ran it like this, just the last time we replaced the drivetrain Narrow Wide rings weren’t around.

Cheers for the offer, but want a new one idealy

How many companies are actually manufacturing tubeless sealant? And how many companies are rebranding the same product as their own?

Got sent a bottle of the new UberBike sealant to try, then at the Cycle Show at the NEC I spotted a few others for sale, same size bottle, same colour, same consistency, one of them actually had on it it was made by OKO, so guessed it was just re branded OKO Magic Milk Hi Fibre? Also been told that OKO make the MucOff sealant and (used to) make Peatys?

Tried quite a few sealants and never been to convinced by them, Joe’s Super Sealant (similar to Stans?) is the one I always go back to, always seems to do the job.

I always think of the ride down Skiddaw BW as quite hard core but then the last time I did it I was on a rigid GT Outpost.

Hard core? It’s a gravel path. The worst way off of skiddaw, until the spoony that is, then it’s only fun late at night, or it’s too busy.

Chances are, if they were riding a GT Outpost it was quite a while ago, probly long before they put the zig zag gravel path in (early 00’s?), it used to be all natural and quite rough in places.

What are good possible extensions to the Borrowdale Bash route?

Walla Crag at the beginning of the ride, loop around the back of Stonethwaite mid ride then up Rigghead Quarries from just before Castle Crag, takes you up on to High Spy then Maiden Moor then down towards Little Town, Fix the Fells have done a lot of work on Maiden Moor recently so not as good / techy as it used to be.

Sure, but at over £1/spoke for DT Competition black, they’re over 2x the price you can get them from Rose Bikes!

They do a quantity discount, can get black Sapim Race with nipples for as low as 68p !!

Black DT Comps as low as 88p