Cheers guys. Just stumbled on “Ride&Repair” via the Macc Wheelers website so might give him a whirl for now

Cheers. Will take a look. Was hoping for a bit closer to Macc or north towards Manchester, but Congleton is only 20mins down the road so not too far

Have you looked on the drawing? I can’t even see that foam wiper https://www.marzocchi.com/support/forks/2014/2014-55-cr.aspx?idC=62354&idM=19269-1525-1525&idMy=15639&idP=18832-672&idS=15810

I used to have similar on my old 307. All it did was tell the ECU that the air temp was lower than it was so it dumped more fuel into the cylinders. On proper cold days, it would over-fuel so much it would just pump black smoke out the exhaust.

On warmer days when you overtook something you had to shift before 3,500 rpm as the excess fuel would cause an emissions fault to kick in so it went into limp home mode.

They may have changed but from my side more placebo than actual perfomance increase

As mikewsmith said, if you’ve been there lomg (~24yrs) the payout could be quite substantial so you may want to make a choice based on that whether it makes sense to stick around till November or start looking now. From memory as part of your consultation they should confirm your payout or at least advise what you will get in terms of statutory + company (If they offer the latter)

Its a horrible time, but all i can say is stay level headed and try not to get angry with individuals. You never know if they might call a couple of months later and ask for you back. Thats what happened to me and i’ve been back another 7years!!

It could well be the diff. There is loads of play in it as my dad admitted to over-tightening the crush washer at some point. It never used to whine, and we’ve done no work to it, but it was last on the road nearly 7 years ago, so it could be the diff. We’re going to drop the original gearbox back in so should hopefully see if that makes a difference.

thanks for the help though, much appreciated

Dave

And a pic for the classic car enthusiasts

Untitled by Dave Aspinall[/url], on Flickr

@jonm81, cheers for that. I did check with my dad last nigth about the oil – I got a stare of death over the top of his glasses before being schooled on how an overdrive works!!

Could be a project for winter on the dining room table!! :lol:

Cheers guys, I’ll drop them a mail. We did think about stripping it down ourselves and give it a whirl, but considering its whining along with the synchromesh on 3rd being knackered it might need a more expert eye on it.

Still, not bad for a £12.50 purchase of ebay 13 years ago!! We still have the original box but the overdrive uinit makes modern day driving a bit more friendly

I’ve used http://www.glasses123.co.uk who have a shop in Liverpool. I usually buy a “Re-glaze” during one of their sales and then send at a later date.
I’ve used them for my last 4 sets of glasses

Challenge the feedback. We sold some Ikea wardrobes this week. Included all the dimensions etc. Winning bidder then announced that they were too tall for them so wanted to cancel transaction. Then left us negative feedback because we quizzed them as to why they bothered bidding.
Raised a dispute and eBay ruled in out favour and removed the feedback. Back to 100%

I was having similar problems with mine although down to a dodgy door & glass seal. My challenge was it would roar away but put no heat out and if i damped it down it would virtually go out.

I invested a fiver in one of these that goes on the flue if you can get to it, and helped make sure i always had the fire running at the correct temp. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F92EB18/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As above my leaky seals meant it was drawing far too much air so i had to change the vents all the time, but monitoring the temp meant we didn;t burn anywhere near as much wood and the fire put out more heat.

Good points. We plan to put a “floating” oak beam across as a mantel piece so as you say, probably worth patching it up and plaster all over.

As for thermal expansion, so far thats not been an issue as the fire was so crap. I’m hoping new seals and a liner that won’t just suck air in from everywhere might make it a bit more efficient.

footflaps, cheers for that. We plan to leave the arch exposed and plaster up to that point so we can cover over some of the banding.

I plan to take some of the plasterboard off to expose another couple of courses up to see what the quality of the brickwork there is.

I did wonder about drilling from underneath straigh up into the upper courses and inject resin and some bar so hold it all together.

Also try wire brush in an angle grider. I did this to remove the old plaster from the chimney we’ve exposed. It creates a shed load of dust even with a vac hooked up to the grinder.

You could also try a needle scaler if that doesn’t work. Depends how soft the stone behind is

Depending on the company, length of service isn;t always a bad thing. From experience i;ve seen people with close to 20yrs expereince made redundant over people with less than 12months as they were less able to adapt to change or are not willing to up their game to match the demands of the company/industry.
Obviously this is very much company and people specific but if you’re good they’ll probably want to keep you.

I’ve used my local Halfords for both my main car and the MX5. They know that i fix anything myself and in most cases don;t even quote for anything that its failed on – Just put some yellow chalk on where it needs work :) .

I’ve found them to be honest and passed everything bar where i had a massive hole in the chassis rail on the MX5 and two snapped springs

Good work fella

I got my VCDS cable off ebay. I’m not sure how true it is, but a lot of sellers claim that the cheap cables will break after a couple of uses. I paid about £40 for mine when i had to code in the towbar on my Exeo. I’ve used i tot wind back the rear piston on my old mans Tiguan to do brake pads, so its more than paid for itself.

You can have a play on the Ross-Tech website to get a feel for how it works. http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/main_screen.php
You can then look at the proceedures in the wiki and get a feel for what you need to do before going all gung-ho on the car!!

Probably worth taking a copy of any codes before changing anything in case it goes horrible wrong.

Good luck and keep us posted. Fair play to you for doing it so quickly

Good job. Its made me realise how much work i’m going to have to do with the one i’m hopefully getting the keys for on Friday.

My 15mm maxle did the same the other week after sitting on the towbar rack for a trip to the lakes and back. The bike lives in the house so the front wheel never comes off. When I did try to, the salt and warmth had corroded the axle so it had seized in the fork.

I tried tapping the release lever with a lump hammer, but it just started to round off.

Used a set of 13″ Stilsons in the end which released it with little damage.

Maxle by Dave Aspinall[/url], on Flickr

In the final processes of buying a house at the moment.

Some things from my experience:
1. View as many as you possibly can. The pics probably won’t do it justice (Positively and negatively)
2. Consider houses outside of search criteria. I wanted a garage, but the one we are buying doesn’t but has space to build one :)
3. Don’t get bullied in a bidding war. If you don;t think its worth it, walk away.
4. Be realistic about work required. We fell in love with one, which in hindsight would have required a lot more than just cosmetic work to get it to a liveable standard
5. Estate agents are largely on par with traffic wardens. Good ones are few and far between and seem to think they know what is best for you.
6. See 5 :)

Good luck and hope it helps

I’d say tri suit along with the number belt are the best things ever. The first tri i ever did, i spent over 5mins in T1 trying to get clothes on especially when you’ve safety pinned a number to your t-shirt.

Tri suit and number belt every day of the week

Through our benefits scheme at work I managed to get 5% off a pre-loaded John Lewis card. Used it to get my Dad a 7 before Christmas.

I’d suggest getting a vcds cable off eBay as well then. At least you can test and interrogate some of the modules before firing it up.
At least with having the old engine, as you remove parts you can check to see if they are on the donor engine or not

When I put the engine in my old jet boat, I had nothing bar engine with carbs and an exhaust manifold. Had to guess what all the wires and everything did. Got it running eventually

As long as youv got the time, space and potentially somewhere dry or someone to hold an umbrella give it a go. I did the clutch and high pressure fuel pump on my old 307 hdi on the drive with just a trolley jack and a few planks of wood. Just take notes, label wires and walk away if it’s not going to plan.
Engine hoist will help as well.
Good luck and post some pics

Agree with the above. I quite often ride out from Leek through the back roads to the top of the Roaches and then drop over the other side and climb back up through Flash and over towards Buxton. You can then climb back out on the Whaley bridge road and drop into the Goyt Valley and climb up to the cat n fiddle. Options then as to whether you drop down towards Mac or Bollington and then up blaze or the brickworks and then cut cross country back towards Leek or just ride back across behind Macc Forrest

As above loads of quite roads and some lung buster climbs and fast descents

They are currently building a fuel station at the Manchester Trafford Park store

I never got any made up, but I asked the same question last year. Some ideas in this post http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/custome-cycling-jerseys

@vader, cheers for that. I’m in the process of buying an old house with a damp/wet cellar so that’s answered a few questions and raised a few more

Dave

I’m going through all this at the moment. We had some concerns about damp in the cellar. In the end we didn’t bother with the home buyers report but instead got a damp/ground-works specialist to advise on the issue and cost to fix. A lot more useful than a report saying it’s damp and needs work which we already knew

If you’re really worried get an electrician to look at it and give you a more accurate oppinion.

I’ve got a 2004 JP 128 Freeride that needs its finbox glassing back in if someone is looking for a winter project. Free to a good home :lol:

I may have to eat my words about EBC. Used them yesterday for some new brembo discs as the warning light came on for the pads over the weekend and i couldn;t wait till Friday for GSF’s discount code.
Ordered online and went to store and was the only one there. Parts were on the counter in under a minute.

I used to use Mintext discs and pads, but the quality seems to have dropped recently and the rear discs have corroded crazy fast before the first set of pads were half worn.

I’ve given the Brembo UV discs a go to see if they do have better corrosion resistance

I learnt all the way up to planing on a Bic Regae. I still remember the day my Dad told me it was time to start using a harness. Many catapults ensued especially with small feet and no padding in the foot straps. My Bic Veloce 298 after that felt like a rocket ship at the time.

Boardwise Cannock have loads of old school boards in their used boards selection. Some classics in there for very little money.

I have an old Fanatic Bee in the shed from my uni days. I hate to think how aweful it was to sail compared to my newer JP and Starboard kit

GSF all the way for me. The staff are significantly more helpful and professional than the eejits at the ECP store up the road. Just a shame you have to wait for their weekly 48-50% off offers to get a reasonable price.

Does the PD engine have an interference head on it?

I can’t help on size, but thanks for the heads up that they have them. I’ve been looking at the Alu version on CRC for ages and this is nearly £100 cheaper than CRC :)