Mine arrived this morning and they’re a thing of beauty to look at.

Just need to find time to fit ready for saturdays ride :lol:

Snow line is pretty high everywhere.

This was Hellvelyn and Striding Edge yesterday. :D

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Summit shot

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Hellvelyn Summit[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

I’ve run 2.35 HR’s on FLows with no issues. THe only time i had burping was when i’d not changed the sealant in a long time then went to France. The heat dried anything left up, so when i got a small puncture the pressure dropped and it came off the rim. Until then it was fine.

That’s quality. :D

Good man. I use Rock Oil 7.5w in mine. I read somewhere that motorcycle fork oil can cause the seals to swell. Considering they have a tendancy to leak them swelling can only be a good thing!!

I’ve looked at the new ones, but until they break properly there’s no point. Fingers crossed i get another trip to the Alps out of them :)

Yes. The last one if from the 08 ATA that has the PAR as well but I assume your’s may be made up similarly but without the extra air chamber.

The diagrams are on this site: http://www.raceco-mtb.com/marzocchi/

It’s a bit all over the place and sadly for 2009 they don’t seem to like to give a proper breakdown of what’s inside them, but still handy to have.

Oops double post 8O

I’ve got the 2006 S-Works version of that frame and it has a bush top and bottom. I did find it used to eat through bushes although the polymer one with stainless insert seemed to last a lot longer than the DU.
If it’s a Specialized shock, check the busing size. On the Enduro it takes a 12mm rather than the 1/2″ that fox is

I’d say there shouldn’t be enough air in the fork leg to make a difference here. Mine went through a phase of leaking air into the leg, but of high enough pressure to start impeding travel.

If they’re leaking through the top, I’d say you need to look at replacing seals 62 and 66 in the below. This is from the 2008 version but I assume there will be some similarities

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55_ATA_2008[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

That makes a bit more sense now, but the bit the ATA knob attached onto to wind it down looks a but fubar’d. Sadly the 2009 service doc doesn’t show how the ATA is made up, but it all should look like the below:

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55_ata_2009[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

Could be worth giving James at J-Tech a shout. He serviced my 55’s the other year. He might be able to advise how that piece should be fixed in.

If it’s anything like the damping cartridge, the bits are easy to shear off

On my mobile to cant embed, but I took some pics of the top of the ATA cart

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/windydave13/sets/72157640136663456/

The grub screws are meant to provide resistance to the ATA knob, otherwise under a hard compression it can start to wind itself down.

Firstly, are you making sure to fill the bottom chamber first before the top?

The ATA knob should fit over the schraeder valve and turning that is what adjusts the travel. If you look under the knob, the hole that fits over the valve should have a flat side to it. I wonder if your’s is just spinning on the valve as from what you describe when you adjust it with pliers it works fine??

When i get mine out the car tomorrow i’ll take a couple of pictures. It was far too cold in the carpark of Glenshee! 8O

I’ve just loaded the bike into the car for a trip to Scotland but i’ll try take a pic in the morning when I get to work. If the travel has stuck down you need to very carefully release the trapped air in the middle chamber. I had this the other year but a bit more extreme:
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Marzocchi 55 lock down[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

I just followed this LINKto get the air out but sent it to J Tech after that for a proper service.

I’ve never stripped the ATA as it works so I’m leaving it well alone.
If you haven’t got the pdf’s on the breakdown email me and i’ll send them across to you.

Dave

I’ve had that. I read something on a different forum about putting slightly oversized O-rings in but this did nothing. I’ve gone back to official Marzocchi ones. I had issues with air leaking from the ATA into the fork leg itself so I ended up with an extra spring. I’ve taken to carrying a cassette tool and a spanner with me to crack the air off if need be mid ride.
However since the last service and new O-rings they’ve been fine.
They’re so simple it doesn’t take long to strip clean and rebuild and the orings are pennies.

chrisdw – ill be honest, rebound on mine seems to do sweet fa but I’ve snapped the knob off so I never bother trying to adjust it. Even when they knob was still attached I never found the adjustments as significant as what you see with fox.

To be fair, my damper cartridge is like a service indicator. It seems to drops all its oil after about 30 hours use, but its so simple to change, I’ve got the full strip of the ATA and TST including new O-rings in the ATA down to about an hour.

Considering mine are a proper Friday afternoon build they do just seem to keep on going and going :roll:

The link below is for the TST micro, but it might be similar. I tend to fill and then cycle the piston until all the air has gone then top up and screw the cap back on.

I could be very wrong but it seems to work for me :lol:

Takes about 10mins max even with cutting the hose down to size.
Most time consuming bit is getting your saddle back in the same position!!

Private plate on the car. Could be worth money? :lol:

Had similar on my 307 the other week. Release bearing had worn the pressure plate unevenly resulting in very similar symptoms. You can see the release arms are bent on the left

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Pressure plate[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

I thought it was master cylinder but after battling with that it made no difference.
Cost £70 for a new clutch and a couple of evenings and a Saturday to swap it out. Nothing too technical just a pain manoeuvring the gearbox in and out.

There are a couple of pay on the gate places along the A57 between Irlam and the stadium. Alternatively i know of people parking on side streets the Eccles side of the M60 and then walk across.

I’ve taken to riding the bike there as it’s complete carnage to get in and out after the game

Dave

Hmmmm, my front has arrived but no rear. Shows as “Being Picked” on the site. I somehow don’t think that one will ever materialise :(

Good shout. Only really wanted a flow front but seemed rude not to add a matching rear as well especially at that price.

Well my 2 orders have been shipped so all looking good!!

I can manage to squeeze 2 boards, 5 sails, 4 masts and 3 booms in my 307 hatch with all the seats folded. No room for much else but it works.

I’ve both JP and Starboard which i love. Unfortunately the old measure of board length and volume is out the window now, with most boards ebing sub 240 long. It’s apparently more about width.

I’ve a 117l Starboard iSonic i use for flat water cruising with a 9.4 RS Slalom and a 93l JP freestyle wave that does a mixture of higher wind crusing and playing in the waves. I can get away with 6.5 – 4.7 on the JP.

I’ve bought most boards via eBay but i’ve bought my sails from Riks Windsurfing. He has quite a lot of high quality 2nd hand kit so might be worth giving him a shout

Dave

As crazy as it sounds check all the air intake pipes.
My HDI was a bugger to start and i thought it was injectors/glow plugs etc.
In the end, i discovered there was a join in the intake between the MAF and the turbo. It had come apart slightly so was sucking air after the MAF.
This caused the ecu to get really confused and poor starting in cold weather. Since then it’s been peachy

Also other forums suggest glow plugs don;t kick in until its -10^C

I’ve just done it on a Mac Mini but not sure which version it was running.

Restart it and hold CMD+R. This should take you to a screen that allows you to reinstall OSX. With my mini it allowed me to download a fresh version of OSX off the Apple server.

Hope it helps.

I’ll take that as a compliment :lol:
To be fair I do run a little extra if I know I’ve a long climb ahead but no more than about 5-10mm more than normal.

It’s a bold statement, but to me it’s my perfect bike. Even on the first ride when I built it last year, it just felt right.

Mine is definitely the wrong side of 30. 8O

Lawn doesn’t look too shabby although perhaps a trim round the edges!!

I’m impressed you don’t have to run more seat post at 6′. I’m 6’2″ and even with a large I have to run a shed load of post

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upload[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

TAFKASTR, that looks insanely slack 8O

Can you adjust travel on the fly or is it fixed? Also is it coil or air??
The more i look at these x-fusions the more i’m tempted to swap my 55’s for a set

Dave

SLX M675 front and rear with a RT 76 203 front and a 180 rear.
Forks are 2008 Marzocchi 55 ATA’s running at 160.

Its an emotional relationship as when they work they’re awesome but every now and then they just decide to dump all the air out the ATA into the station :twisted:.

Here’s mine.
AFR swapped for RP23 and its a massive improvement. Took a while to get the pressure right and have also fitted a volume reducer as I was finding it ripped through the latter part of the stroke too much.
Yet again faultless in the Alps this year :lol:

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Bardsey[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

Good job fella. Glad its fixed. They are an emotional roller coaster which is why I can’t bring myself to get rid of my 307 after owning it for 11 years!! :lol:

This could be a proper long shot, but have a look at this thread about some crazy alarm antics on the 306. Several folk talk about a connector that if undone and reconnected may fix things http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=9597

My 307 had a major immobiliser wobble a couple of months back and locked me out. Even with a new battery and the spare key I couldn’t get in the car. In the end I disconnected the battery for a couple of minutes then re-connected. Everything seemed to re-set itself and worked fine. Could be worth disconnecting the battery again and seeing if it resets itself.

Alternatively try finding someone with Peugeot Planet who can come round and take a look. One of the Peugeot forums has a list of people with it by geography.

Good luck

I’ve used these guys (Glasses123)[/url] for my last 2 pairs of Oakleys. Also sign up to the newsletter and you get an extra £10 off

Nice action.
I picked my Mk1 up this morning although it needs a bit of work before its in full “road trip” condition :lol:

I was sober at the time, but this is my biggest eBay regret! :cry:

It’s still sat behind the house!!

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Dateline Bikini[/url] by windydave13[/url], on Flickr

Last time i asked one of the online retailers i was told:
The SLX and XT cassette or the Sram 980/990 cassette will both be fine with a Hope hub.

I went SLX and it’s been fine so far. No slipping or movement of the cassette like i had before.

Give james a J-Tech a shout. http://www.j-techsuspension.co.uk/
He’s just sorted my 55’s out. Awesome service, excellent vaule and a nice chap to talk to.
They feel so much better after a bit of TLC