Update Saturday 19th – Bresty Haw descent (east) fine, just two trees to hop over; Parkamoor also fine and forest section to top of open area now clear. All forest roads we rode clear. What a gorgeous day.

The bike already has hydraulic disks and is quite lovely, ignoring my dislike of the drops. If I were buying again I might have done as you suggest. In fact, pending the outcome of OPERATION BARSWAP I might end up considering this option!

Am aware of this potential issue.. I *think* it should be OK but have a longer stem if needed…
And have some SQL Innerbarends to re-create that ‘hood’ experience.

Interesting, but I really want the braking position of flat bars, i.e. strong wrap-around grip rather than awkward tilting over the hood thing.

..like https://www.tweekscycles.com/shimano-bl-m6000-deore-i-spec-ii-compatible-disc-brake-lever-2010863/?sku=MADBLM6000L&istCompanyId=56f52ebf-49f3-492a-9cbb-cb6ab0fc1bf0&istFeedId=4884aef3-d477-49a6-86fa-21dcb1a15e41&istItemId=iptlmrtai&istBid=t&msclkid=7d3fe90f5f7d1112d7f0b63e6a59e418&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MPX_UK_SHP_G_None_TC_SHP%20Generic_Catch%20All&utm_term=4582558310384525&utm_content=Catch%20All&gclid=CI-fgtDJkOsCFYRRGwodkkAPdw&gclsrc=ds

..or do I try to find some BL-M8100 levers that will play nicely with I-Spec II?

So what’s the difference? Fit, pull..?
And is there a road shifter that is EV compatible AND 11 speed?

Looking further, do I need an 11sp EV-compatible shifter, like this chap..?
https://www.bikester.co.uk/shimano-deore-sl-m5100-rapidfire-plus-shift-lever-11-speed-i-spec-ev-right-1236378.html?_cid=21_2_-1_9_34_1236378__pla&ef_id=WLk7zQAAADorMo2q:20200810113815:s

I think I am going to need some Valium at this rate…

So… I got some Sl-RS700 with I-Spec II fittings, and BL-M8100 levers… but they don’t fit together. The shifter bracket just doesn’t locate within the brake lever clamp in the way the manual says it should.

What have I done wrong? According to the blurb I’ve found my levers are *EV* compatible rather than I-Spec II so I presume this is the issue?

Did I buy the wrongs things, or was my info suspect? It’s all a learning curve I guess 😉

Man you chaps are quick, and not a drop bar diss in sight. Thank you.

Cheers towzer

That’s it. And thanks for the info, really helpful. I might have some of those bearings lying around, the numbers ring bells.
Cheers!

Found this which seems to be what I need
http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co.uk/items.asp?CategoryID=236&Name=Frame+repairs 🙂

How would this happen though…? If the crank bolts worked loose, and I guess causing a bit of movement that bust the plastic end screw, why would cause the threads to strip if the bearings were tight (they are I think)? Where would the movement come from?

Thanks for the advice. I found one eventually at Tarty Bikes in Preston – excellent quick delivery.

You are quite right, it’s dreadful. Keep and eye on the website/Facebook pages for updates.

Cheers Dylan, look forward to meeting you and hearing what you have to say!

Had one and sold it because:
– rear wheel pain to remove with puncture
– couldn’t fit full mudguard
– rear wheel shifted under load (prob just needed chain tug)
Replaced with Surly Disc trucker which is brilliant.
Steel is nice.

Right this it bullshit. The hub body (excluding the axle bits that stick out) is sat flush between the bike frame, so I conclude that the axle centring is irrelevant, right?
Does anyone know what the gap should be between calliper mount and disk rotor? I reckon I have 1/16 inch – sorry for imperial but it’s close to that than fractions of mm.

Christ on a bike! I had to use a crown race tool to get enough leverage to loosen that beast! Now onto the hub…

I think you might be onto something here. it looks about right but I only need 1mm so the axle might not be spot on. Now my frikkin problem that I cannot get the free hub off! The lock right appears to be torqued to elephant tightness! Other than ‘MTFU’ – any ideas for this? My knuckles are gonna be history…

Perhaps I’m not explaining myself very well. I know how to use small washers to shove the calliper mount in and out, which is why I slide the sliders on the Tech X2s (no need for washers). But my mount it totally as far to the left as possible (looking at the back of the bike in the stand) but it needs to be 1mm more left.

Biggyin – I am thinking that’s my only option. Could I do it myself with a file or is this asking for trouble? And then the frame would rust, right?

I think the hub is OK although not sure how it couldn’t be as there is no room….OK, hang on, I need to check this ‘cos I did rebuild it…

Nah, it’s impossible. The calliper is at its furthest out position in the sliders, and yet the rotor sits on the left side of the gap. I want to push the calliper another 1-2mm out to centre it but there is not slide left! It’s a Hope XC hub with Hope rotor so I cannot imagine this putting the disk slightly too far out or anything.

Or an escalator on the Northern Line?

Have you spoke to Evans? Like who ever is responsible for web sales? Explain what happened and why it’s inconvenienced you? They might be able to do something, maybe to the system to prevent future incidents. You might even get an apology or a £10 voucher or something. They are a big company with a reputation to keep up.

4 days in this weather is not enough for dummy spitting.

For simple stuff the Band X kit seems fine. I have a crown race tool (metal tube) which I am not sure needs to be any more complicated (or expensive). But for allen keys etc I think buying Park might be worth it. Like others have said though, don’t buy a huge kit ‘cos you won’t use it all and it’ll need a mortgage.

Little thawing of lying snow this week and it’s snowing it’s arse of again tonight – so yeah, expect to be skiiing down. Might be fun 🙂

Cool, looks good – am reading it now…

I think the actual difference between riding a 26er and 29er equates to one decent turnout, say 500g faeces.

No. Do not given in to irrational and childish bullying (which is what this sort of behaviour boils down to). If someone (or either gender) is incapable of basic, coherent and calm communication then they need to address this. I used to just put up with this, but decided at some point enough was enough. Not just with partners but with anyone. And actually, despite the odd bit or aggro (and one or two completely unnecessary slaps) I have found it a lot better. This includes work as well as personal. it doesn’t mean being aggressive or rude, just calmly pointing out when someone is being irrational and suggesting you reschedule whatever you are discussing for another time.
*Terms and conditions apply: value of relationships/employment may go down as well as up.

I dunno, I just cannot help but think Scotland’s progressive access laws just wouldn’t work in somewhere about the same size but with 10x the population. Same thing as when you are out walking and see no one all day, then when you do you go out of your way to meet to shoot the breeze. In the Lakes it’s head down and plough through.
We do need laws where it’s sensible (like stopping 4x4s causing serious damage to ruined RUPPs) but need to separate the irrational fear of cycles from the actual. Instead of ‘no cycling’ how about ‘please use this area respectfully and consider others’. This would cover everyone, walkers, horse riders, cyclists, dog walkers etc. In other words, deal with the **** (or all sorts) but don’t prejudice everyone.

Scotland is large and sparsely populated. England is mostly rammed full of us lot. There seems a direct correlation between this rammage and aggro. We need rules to help us get along but if you feel like breaking them just do it politely. Nothing does our cause more damage than a swearing ranting arse. A polite response to the ‘you can’t cycle here’ might do some good. Have a discussion, assure the person you aren’t a threat, just a normal person out enjoying yourself. If there isn’t enough room to pass ensure it’s you that dismounts and moves out the way. That way you take the wind out of their sails, open up dialogue, and they are more likely to think ‘he seemed nice, and wasn’t really doing any harm’. Next time they might just smile at a biker.

Fox OK for normal service. You need a ground down socket (27mm?) to get the top nut off. Normal sockets are rounded and can damage the nut. other than that just follow instructions (Google). Foam washers and lube kit, plus a bottle of shock oil. And don’f forget to let the air pressure out, other wise your uppers might end up in your garage ceiling. Just saying 🙂

What folk have said about reading up before hand (web), getting all the right bits (oil, foam washers etc) and taking your time. Two things I found useful:

For Fox forks you need (well it will make it much easier) a filed flat socket for the top nut – normal sockets are rounded and slip, I bought one (27mm I think) from TFT for a tenna or thereabouts.

Remember to let the air pressure out, assuming you have air forks. Otherwise when you release the bolt, the uppers will explode up into your garage ceiling.

Have fun and think of the money you’ll save 🙂

For one night, you could could up some slop (chilli, curry etc) at home and carry it in doubled ziplock plastic bags. If you can’t be arsed the Look What We Found range does this for you albeit with rather meagre portions. Cake and custard is simple and warming.
And if you have a fire, make some cooking sticks and do twists, or take a knackered pan and make pancakes. Recipes on the web.

decant wine into platypus. Beer not sure, decanting would loose fizz!
Stick to spirits for high alcohol to weight ration. Avoid Woods though. It may be 50% but it tastes worse than meths.

Oh and if you are having a fire, sod the Ray Mears stick rubbing. Take a few supermarket plastic bags. They will melt and burn slowly coating sticks with flammable gunge. Just avoid breathing and the dripping molten plastic.

All the usual sensible stuff (bivvy bag/sleeping bag/warm clothes) plus booze – a nip of something sat about the fire in the wilds hits the spot. My preference is sloe gin.
And remember water, for overnight and breakfast – unless you have a stream nearby.
Enjoy 🙂

I learned the left-right thing the hard way after hiring a mini-DH rig in Luchon, France. First corner I went over the top into a ditch. Second corner same thing. I am not a quick learner.

A hollow bike? I think my bike is already hollow, I tapped it to make sure.