Fox used to say to use float fluid on the foam rings but now they suggest 10wt green suspension oil – same as the baths. Makes sense really – can’t imagine float fluid would last long as the bath oil makes its way up the stanchions. I guess either is fine though. I also apply stanchion grease to the inner surface of the wiper seal.

Yeah but is actually pretty straight forward to be honest. Ill give mojo a call

Is it the Adaptive Logic one? Kashina?

You could try mounting the ‘dodgy’ tyre on the other rim and see if you have the same problem.

As said above – Pawls or Pawl Springs, or worn ratchet that the pawls engage with, but if they are working fine, take em apart, grease em up and keep running them

Just changed frm iPhone to S3 last week – S3 takes a bit of getting used to, but once you’ve got it, its great.

That said, the S3 seems to do things a bit slower at times but its still a fooking sweet phone

Is the rim OK? I’ve seen this when there is a slight ‘ding’ in the rim and bead wont quite seal in that region – and the sealant sort of bubbles out from apparent pinholes in that region

what mulv said is good – but I got a Commencal Meta 5 a few years ago on 2 years 0% finance with Evans and they were great – the bike was about 2400 quid, but merlin were selling it for 1700 – I asked Merlin if they would sell it on finance and they said “No Way – thats a cash price”. So I went to Evans (Chill Factor) and asked if they’d price match – they agreed and then gave me the finance too – couldn’t fault them.

There’s some properly talented people on this forum……

I had an RP23 Kashima on my Nomad c and got rid of it for a CCDB due to this issue. At the time I spoke to a few ‘knowlegable’ people and was advised something like the bike company has to pick a shock tune ‘as standard’ and so they go for something like a 12 stone guy or something. If your significantly above this then you struggle to get the shock to behave properly.

I was gona get a revalve, and should have tried the volume spacers before I ditched it all together – but im happy running the coil that I’ve got on there now.

Decide whether you are gonna risk charge/court from the outset and stick to your plan – if you are, argue your version of events all the way to court. But – you need to consider…….

Has the incident been captured on CCTV? Are there any winesses? (independant of both A & B) Are there any other sources of info that could come out at a later stage that would bias a persons assessment
of what actually took place? This will probably determine the eventual outcome in favour of A or B. If it’s purely down to A’s word Vs B’s word, (plus previous convictions etc) then it will come down to who the magistrate believes on the day.

Has person B already been visited by the Police? If not, has person A actually filed a complaint against person B already? Without a complaint there is no case to answer.

Specialized Myka is good – my Mildred’s been using hers for years without any issues – I did stick some rebas on it though.

hahaha – glad the irony wasn’t missed scaredypants…..

keep’em comin’…..

They use all kinds of tactics – somethimes you’ve got to give these shits a bit of respect with regards to the way they conduct thier business. They are always looking, clocking etc.

But sometimes peoples ignorance astounds me – last week I drove home from work and followed an open back jeep through a shit hole estate as it carried 3 very expensive DH bikes – i took a pic on my phone it was that stupid. I’ll try n post it – but I couldn’t believe how dumb they were being.

Flush
Proud
That’ll do
Its reet/it’ll be reet
“th’adjuster” (aka hammer)
Phillips ‘ead
Cross ‘ead
Flat ‘ed

The wheels are crank brothers iodine 3s so pretty light anyway – any light weight good xc tyres that u reccomend? I have considered buying a s/h xc bike but don’t have a clue about xc bikes and where to start – I’ve been thinking about some kind of 29er too

I’m 15 stone and has a 450 lb spring. Is the rp23 kashima? What year?

Thanks – but what kind of frequency should I be aiming to ride and what kinda length rides? I usually just ride socially and for pleasure – I was kinda hoping someone would suggest some proven regimen

Thanks so far guys

WTF??? I just watched that too – thought it was good

Happy days….

At the end of the day….

Sure as eggs is eggs….

daft o’clock

Rarhhh and Rarrsss (boil my piss these two)

Sick

Yer get me

Yer know what i’m sayin’

Basically everything that comes out of the mouth of your typical chavy manc scroat

I work around tha area and nip into the park now and again – its generally empty from what i’ve seen…..

The areas a bit rough though

Dimmers do buzz a bit – i believe due to the resistor inside. If its buzzing loudly and if its a cheap or old one it may be worth replacing it with a better quality/newer one – provided nothing else has changed on the circuit.

I’m with direct line – if your bike gets stolen from home (including from shed/outbuilding/garage) it is just included as contents and is covered, regardless of value, and does not need to be specified. Bike has to be locked up though.

This would be the only place my bike would get nicked – if it aint at home, i’m on it.

i’s give on one a call

i had some wheels built by evans (chill factor- trafford) about 3 years ago – could not fault the quality. Very true and radially spot on. I was genuinely very impressed and would use them again. I think the mechanic was called Alan and I beleive he’s still there.

I had this happen on my SC Nomad C more than once – I have to do it up mega tight to make sure it doesn’t happen.

I have 2012 Iodine 3’s – they are light, robust and look sweet as!! Im 15 stone and aint had an issue with ’em. The pawls shattered at one point but think this was my fault – i’d taken the freehub body off and it hadn’t reseated propery when i refitted it – this caused water to get in and rust the pawls. i was sent replacements FOC, easy to fit and been spot on since.

cant really fault them – but i would remove the freehub and make sure they are greased properly – and when refitting it, **** it hard with something soft to make sure the freehub seal engages properly

?

Just drive it!!!

Im pretty sure there’s some policy about having to be two months out of date before anyone gives a crap.

Well i’d drive it anyway – but ultimately its your call. You cant really hold a fellow STW’er to book of you get caught out and they said you’d be OK, but I would drive it there without the slightest worry.

There is very well known crettin who’s from Brinny called Aaron Souter – he is almost certainly responsible for most of the high end bike thefts in and around the Stockport area. A mate’s been hit twice by him – he’s quite open about what he does, but is also open about the fact that he isn’t going to stop becuase he’s making too much money out of it.

Almost certain this will be Mr Souter again – he’s bang at it around Stockport.

i’d give it 2 – start doing some long gentle rides.

Hi teenrat

There are some OK routes round there – nothing too exciting. Hobsons Moore, mossley etc. If you can get over to the Peak district there is obviously loads more.

I think a common problem is that the sort of cock ends that drive antisocially and endanger other road users/cyclists/pedestrians etc – dont have their cars registered to themselves, have questionable insurance etc and it makes them hard to trace. There’s also the fact that its so common that the police would do nothing but investigate motorists. Plus there’s the perception from prosecutors that this kind of thing is very minor in comparison to the more serious offenders/offences that also far more resource intensive. I guess it comes down to a lack of resources – however, if you insist on the police taking action, at least in terms of an initial investigation – there isn’t really a way they can refuse.

Im selling a 2012 Nomad Carbon – large

Ford diesels and their dirty EGR valves – start with that

Section 4 Public order – if you got his reg, ring the feds – If you didn’t get his reg I wouldn’t bother.

The book price based on age and mileage is 10.8k – but this particular car is in very very good nic. I’m not gonna walk away over it but I was a bit surprised he wouldn’t even consider taxing it. He believes he’s got it priced cheap, but I think it’s about right – buyer vs seller perspective, lol

well i guess i’ll split it and sell it seperatley

I no longer have the RP23 so would either have to sell the frame with no shock and the ccdb on its own, or sell the frame with the coil.

Frame w/ shock – £1850
Forks £400
Wheels £400
Brakes £150

I would imagine much more is known about this incident than what is being released to the press…..another awful story. My thoughts go out