another problem is some road brakes wont cope with a wide rim, you wont be able to adjust the pads properly.

better late than never

“**** hell ref” 😆

not the best game for wales, but as mentioned at least this seems like anyone’s tournament so far no stand out favourite at all IMO.

Could be an expensive fix. If it’s not skipping gears, leave it till dead?

or it could be a simple fix that will end up being expensive if not sorted now

Ive got a set of avid db3 brakes ive kept for when I build up my boys first disk braked bike as the reach can be adjusted so they are super close to the bar, so great for little hands. Maybe have a look on bike discount they usually have cheap cube frames and 14″ 650b frame would probably be spot on

EDIT : eg https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/cube-acid-27.5-frame-grey-n-flashorange-579254/wg_id-276

I wouldnt run that, as soon as you hit something and it squashes the tyre down it will probably rub the sides, eventually going right the way through the fork…

For your purpose I would go for an epic, my dad has one and ive borrowed it a few times when inbetween bikes and it can get me round cwmcarn and other local stuff fairly well even though it is a size too big for me, his is an older comp carbon and is fairly light the Sworks must be a real featherweight.

f you lace them up and just tighten the nipples to the point where no thread is showing the bike shop can do the rest in under and hour for 2 wheels (£35)

not when you bring them in laced up the wrong way round and and some of them more tightened that others to you have to start over again to be able to do anything, effectively creating more work that just bringing in the parts…

But yes if you know a bit about what you are doing it can save time/money

got an older style easton ec70 seatpost with layback hanging around if you want something cheap but a decent brand

Post to flat mount adaptors are available – http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-mount-adaptor-front-post-to-flat-road/rp-prod137892?gs=1&gclid=CI78ibKE99ECFRONGwodYlAIlA&gclsrc=aw.ds

that is to fit a PM brake to a flat mount frame, you cant get one to go the other way around.

wiggles.. stop trolling me. you are not funny. my wages wont allow me to pay full rrp so i have to buy from online shops to afford my hobby…

Im not trolling, im saying you havent actually saved any money…

Go to a shop ask for a price for building wheels including parts they say £300 for parts £50 for labour, factoring the total margin they make.

people then go away and get the parts for £250 and are surprised that the shop charges them more than £50 to build the wheels, not saying this is what happened but just the fact that it isnt always cheaper.

yeah, you saved £25 on the rims buying online compared to the shop so it is added to the labour 😉

was £60 a wheel at the shop I used to work at, maybe a bit less than £120 for a pair so seems about right to me.

Wiggles, good point, but the Reign can be a little soggy on the rear due to the leverage ratio. My advice, get a coil, ride it – get it tuned if you don’t like something about it, or get a Fox RC4 with a bottom out adjuster.

I didn’t mean to criticize your advice obviously the kinematics of the frame are important to work this out and you are correct in what you said. I mean you need to know what you want as an individual rather than going “I want an EWS top 10 racer set-up please”

Also be aware that having you shock tuned usually requires you asking for specific traits/changes rather than just asking for a tune for certain bike as the person doing it won’t know the leverage curve of every bike available….

Just set your shock up like a really fast Pro rider, that will be exactly how you want it 😉

Trust me I’ve had a world champs winning fork in my hands and me (as a mere mortal) would not want anywhere near those settings. Don’t just copy someone you need to think about what you want it to do/feel like.

I’ve bit the bullet and bought myself a set of E4s and hope rotors.

Keeping the guides for now incase the hopes are not to my liking but hopefully they will be good condition considering how much they are costing 😯

DOSS? Not new bit might find one about

I don’t understand going “OMG £5.5k FOR A BIKE??!?!?”

You do know there are intense bikes that are £8.5k+ ?

Oranges aren’t the best value but they have a USP and heritage/following so do well.

Ive got a spare deore double chainset if you want one cheap, but by the time you get the chainrings you want not sure if it would be worth it.

What chainset has it got? hollowtech?
If its square taper etc you can easily shave some weight there.

They are shared parts so it usualy says 29″ 140/27.5″150/26″ 160 etc on then anyway. Like when I fitted a bunch to peoples bikes making 150 bikes 160 in 27.5″ they all flogged the shafts to their mates who had 26″ pikes to make theirs 160 as well.

yup absolutely no difference other than the kashima coating which is pointless on a seatpost… guess which one I am getting 😉

it matches my fork though…

Id say so yeah, as they are 29er forks. Not actually done it myself though as didnt have yari`s for very long…

you either have 27.5 boost yari or a 29/27.5+ one, it will say on the back of the fork.

So there isnt really a 27.5+ fork specifically just a 29er one that is also 27.5+ compatible.

Fox transfer

just sounds like they need a bleed.

but then again gearboxes have never had the marketing machines going full-tilt behind them #makesyouthink

Marketing something that makes your bike heavier and harder to pedal is always going to be harder than something that makes it heavier but easier to pedal 😉

I hope it falls on its arse and costs them a shed load of money

thats a bit extreme/personal, did someone at orange **** your mum or something?

TRP are very expensive for the good ones and not really tried and tested enough, seen a pair of magura MT7 for £180 (not new) that is tempting.

But probably going to be the hopes, just to try them out if not anything else.

Like I said, depends. I’d expect a competent bike mechanic to take the pads out and use the bleeding blocks. In that case the new pads should still fit.

But a more than competant mechanic knows that you can get the brakes to feel better buy getting getting the pads a bit closer to the rotor once it is bled. So pad thickness does matter when you bleed them.

I want to know if you can fit 650+ into a stage 5…

I`m 16st and I run mine at 12-15psi and havent had a puncture in the year ive had a plus bike, currently on 3″ nobby nic/rocket ron, previously on specialized.

Live in south wales so been used on everything from rocky trail centre stuff to in the woods steep loamy tech stuff and I wouldnt change it.

Formula are not on my list because I don`t like the feel of the levers, even the posh ones my mate used to rave about them and tried to make me like them but just dont like the feeling of them…

This thread makes me out to be the pickiest person ever 😳

I`m fat and slow but I do brake a lot so the are a very important part of my bike 😆

A bet you were expecting it to be some enduro-gnar FS, been there done that messing about on a space hopper bike now

I went on a your of the building when i visited london, arranged with my local MP and his assistant showed us around was quite cool to see all the really old parts of the building etc

this was about 10 years ago, worst bit was a really arsey armed policeman on the checkpoint on the way in, had an argument with him about my hat (not allowed to wear a hat inside for security reasons apparently, said the man in a hat) 😆

wouldn’t say all ebike riders are a bit heavier though.

not all, some are average size weight but on average they are definitely on the larger end of the scale compared to an average of normal mtb riders. I spent the last few years selling them and that is just my own observation.

o on, enlighten me.

How does the fork know the difference between a 21kg bike and a 79kg rider, or a 13kg bike and an 87kg rider?

Or could it be marketing bollocks?

doesn`t work like that though does it, if the average rider weight is 80kg then on average the ebike + rider is still heavier.

Its not like only people who are light ride ebikes, probably the opposite if we are honest.

Im in a lucky position to not be paying full price some brands but that means the one I am not getting a discount on seem comparatively expensive.

so if say zee cost me £x

tech E4 are about £x + £20-30 so it makes it make more sense to get the hopes as if I did really hate the I wouldn`t be making a big loss selling them.

been looking on a few of the german sites and can get magura MT5 reasonably cheap, seems you have the same reach adjust on the mt7 just with a tool rather than a nob but no bite point adjust.

This thread is leaning me towards the zee`s I think, they are the known quantity, I know I like them. I have heard stories of a few people getting the hopes and and being disappointed… I think I just prefer the way the shimano and maguras feel where the bite point is a bit more obvious.

Also mineral oil is a plus in my case as I have to work on my bike in the house and dont really want dot fluid getting everywhere…

Why not get the next ones up the range, with adjustable reach levers?

bit too spendy…

Although I was temped by the danny mac ltd editions, would be scared to use them though!

The Zees must be due an update this year, they’ve been out ages now. Maybe wait for that?

I did think that, but not sure whether I want to wait around.

How about Formula? My RO have been faultless for about 3 years now and have masses of modulated power.

dont get on with the lever, a bit like the magura I just find them too far out from the bar for my stubby fingers…

Personally, I would go for the Zee’s.

I bought a set of Hope tech E4 on my previous bike thinking they would be the last set of brakes I would buy, but they were disappointing, both from a usability and reliability point of view. Never felt quite right.

Since then I’ve got a bike with Zee’s and I prefer the (lack of) modulation, it feels like more power.

It’s a bit of a personal thing thought, so YMMV

This is what worries me, Ive had zees and know I like them so spending big money on the hopes and then finding out I prefer the zees would be a mistake. But part of me just likes hope stuff and would prefer it because of being british made etc

Im bored of looking now!

Going to try and have a spin on a bike with hopes next week as have access to a few demo bikes with them, see if I like them enought to spend the extra over the zees