Don’t be a dick

really bad pictures but…

Ill try and find the picture but I did a build for a customer a few year ago with a Sworks enduro in green with purple, was **** awesome

Most shocks use 12.7mm hardware so should just swap over you will need DUs for the new shock at least though

So you changed all the parts apart from the little ring and it doesn’t work in the little ring?

Maybe it isn’t “fine” would be my guess

Ive got the opposite problem, Im always looking for the next bike or upgrade, when I hardly have time to ride them all. Apart from the roadbike that is just a commuting/pain&suffering tool

Think I might just go for 35mm, a lot more choice for the sake of a few mm

Only seems to be available from syntace direct for 120 euros 😯

Ive got 3 long weekends in march before my holiday runs out, doing 5 days on the 4th week is going to be tough.

7mm more stroke can be a LOT more travel. Maybe the frame will hit itself as well…

Beef, rosties and yorkshires, had some rather nice sweet potato mash today as well.

The secret is get them delivered to work 😉

I have a similar problem, I live in a maisonette and share a communal staircase with one neighbour, this area stinks and sometimes comes through my door. You can practically see the smoke coming out from around their door it is so bad they also walk down/up the stairs smoking despite the landlord putting no smoking signs everywhere.

I used to smoke on the odd occasion but would always go outside to avoid this issue for others.

Forgiveness, I was told “no more bike parts until after the wedding” 1 hour later I bought a new frame and am scouring the net for the other parts I need…

It uses a cassette tool on the inside of the lockring.
The BB tool type ones are used on MTB because the hole needs to be bigger for 15/20mm axles.

Im about your hight and would have a medium (based on riding one) and had a medium G150 in 2015 so little bit different sizing but the T130 has got bigger over the years and is probably nearly as big as that was.

Specialized do a 75mm comand post that is listed as 310mm, as long as you want internal routing and 30.9mm

Stick with annodised parts, as long as they are purple 😉

Ive just bought a raw frame specifically so I can fit hope purple stuff all over it 😳

Bought a new frame within an hour of having an argument with the mrs about having too many bikes…

Fox 36

Obviously the ohlins stuff is all irrelevant if you dont want a 29er fork

my new bike from mboy

fit seems spot on for once

He must be very very good

Id definately prefer them, Although my current employment would make me biased, I have previously had, pikes, rebas, yari and lyriks on bikes I have used in the last year or so.

I would say the 36 is miles better than a pike because of the stiffness of the chassis as well as the damper, 34s are similar to a pike stiffness wise and have a very good damper (fit4 version).

That because that is how much they cost 😉

Seriously though, they are not something you will generally find for sale reduced unless they are old/ex demo models.

Didnt it also say he ended the timed section on a bit of fireroad?

Im faster than all my mates down a fireroad because Im the fattest 😆 so the same would apply to the same person but with a heavier bike would always be faster in that situation.

Glad it arrived safe and someone did a good job of the packing 😉

Did you have all the other parts ready to build it straight away? Will be interested to see what you think as I am assuming you didn’t come to Wales for a testride.

Dipped a jammie Dodger in my coffee

I hope that was a mistake and you thought it was tea, otherwise…

you make me sick! 👿

Who advised you that the factory tune is for the 13 stone rider?

Well it is not really true… How do they know that?

AS obviously they are an air fork the the spring rate is based on how much air you put in them, the compression damper will have a certain “tune” which will more than likely be designed to suit the “average” rider rather than mega light or heavy riders, but it is down to riding style and terrrain etc as well as weight.

Done some man maths…

Worked out I can buy an “old” 142 rear end frame, use up my spare brakes , bars etc and buy all new low-mid level bits(apart from suspension which would be good stuff) to fill in the gaps. Without a dropper post a probably not taking into account a few things I have probably missed I could build a 2nd bike for pretty much the same amount as it would cost me for a (very very nice) new frame and shock to fit all the bits of the HT.

Makes it tempting but then I have to make space for another bike and the new frame would be worth more 2nd hand to sell if I change my mind than the whole cheap bike would be worth probably…

Demo bike time I think, to see if the fancy expensive frame is worth it.

Think you will probably be looking at the PX frame then as not a huge choice frame only apart from high end stuff. Not the biggest gamble if you dont like it at the prices they churn them out at really…

t’s the fact that they are heavier AND draggier AND more expensive that holds them back.

That is very much the case I think, a decent priced bike that is a little heavy or a expensive but light gearbox bike might just be enough to tempt people.

think the freewheel wasn’t on the rear wheel, so you could change gear when not pedalling.
Always (to me) seemed a good idea, the efficiency of chain and derailleur but enclosed in a box to keep the mud out.

There was some kind of “floating” mechanism that basically allowed the sprockets with the chain on to allways be parrallel across the whole range of gears so there was no sideways pressure on the chain. Very interested bike, someone I know actually managed to have a go (crashed and put a put scratch on it 😆 ) and a look inside it.

Wiggles, thank you for answering my question.

I didnt mean to come across as having a go at you, just wondered if people knew the difference between value and cost…

But in personal expiernce some companies are worth avoiding even if it means a bit more upfront cost to go elsewhere, as you will more than save the original extra you paid in the end.

If you are after a 54cm specialized diverge I might be selling mine.

f I wanted cheaper I’d go to Halfords or bikes direct. The kaffenback is a decent quality frame with various setup options available, not difficult to understand really , is it?

What do you want then? If you like the PX and dont want anything cheaper why dont you buy it?

PX is cheap but I would say a specialized, giant etc for a few hundred quid more was better value IMO because of the aftersales and resale value etc.

Value and cost are two completely different things, as the OP clearly states.

So what is he asking for then? not just talking about this thread but there have been others where people asked for “better value” versions of things and people just listed cheaper parts rather than saying if they are any good or not…

Why has everyone started using “better value” in place of “cheaper?

Just say what you mean, Id say lots of things are better value than an OO frame because they will probably have have a seatube the right size and a warranty worth something…

[/quote]Honda was a derailleur inside a case.

not exactly, it was a bit more complex than that.

5lbs heavier? really? the rohloff hub doesn’t even weigh that and you have to subtract the weight of the gears and no way is a pinion gearbox more draggy than an epicyclic

Presumably the frame is heavier to fit the gearbox? but I saw the scales myself in this case not exactly the same spec. I believe the recent pinkbike article on the nicolai G16 said it was 4lbs of difference on bikes with identical build kits. 5% was what I read from a test they did to determine the drag factor…

5% more drag and about 5 lbs heavier than the same bike without a gearbox… And the one I know of has a belt drive which has snapped twice in a year leaving the owner stranded… As carrying a spare belt and splitting you bike apart to fit one isn’t exactly trail side repairs.

Yes

Id give it a go if it was free (maybe)

My dads old 1995(ish) raleigh amazon, fitted the bars and fitted mudguards because I commuted on it for a year or so, sow it just has the odd run to the shops so just wanted it to look as much like an old man bike as possible. (notice the rear V-brake and front canti)