Go to a bike shop that can measure her sit bones, specislized and other brands to different sizes to fit.

A big gel saddle will be worse for nerve pain than anything probably

Reason I ask is as above if you don’t have hope brakes i wouldn’t bother, rivets often catch on other adaptors and callipers.

Whatever brakes do you have?

Ive had a pair of deore cranks hanging around in my cupboards for about a year or so…

I am now in the process of building a new FS to use them…

Its a natural reaction.

I had similar a few weeks ago, kids being noisy outside my house so the mrs asked them to move away as our kids are trying to sleep as soon as she came in I heard them shouting abuse at her so I went out there and told them to **** off, they starting coming up to me saying “what you gonna do” and all that usual crap.

I just told them Im a grown man Im not going to hit a little kid (they were about 15) they kept trying to antagonise me and told me to go inside if I wasnt going to fight them, I (probably stupidly) wouldnt back down and just held my ground and forced them to leave.

I was so wound up I was shaking for hours

Just tarmac it

What fork? Some are easily converted

Maybe try a more structured plan rather than just going out and trying riding lots?

Or there is always the E word…

Was just going to mention the mavic ones, the same thing and sometimes cheaper.

Whos ready for next weekend then?

Not me that is for sure, havent ridden more than once a week for a while and done 25miles as my longest ride.

Ill be the fat one on a red specialized looking like im about to die 😆

Although I have bought some dry wax lube, so will degrease my drivetrain and get it prepped and ready so im sure i will be fine…

the bb is just a normal shimano fitment, it is a weird pressfit arrangment but in terms of chainsets it is the same as a threaded road one.

Love my transfer, I like the top-out noise lets me know it came up when I pressed the button.

I was advised to make sure you dont wash your bike upside down as there is a gap in the bottom that can let some crap get in, obviously not a problem when the right way up inside the seat-tube

I beleive the 2.5mm DS spacer is correct for 89.5mm BB and not needed for 92mm BB (hence bb92), but If it is causing issues then try without and see what happens.

Didn’t strip it but recently bought a raw intense frame and it only took a little bit off effort and some polish to get it looking decent, seems the ideal finish for mountain bikes!

Didnt want it looking super polished as obviously it would get ruined in 5 minutes but just evened it out a bit to get rid of the patchy oxidisation.

Before

After

Worst stealth add ever

Looks like they will all be too big for most bearings

Easy, you take it out of the fork throw it in the bin and get this

Butcher front purgatory rear – great allround combo
Butcher / salughter for faster summer set up
Hillbilly/ butcher for winter slop

Actually maybe he has a point. Next time we need to get terrahawk to route the course via the nearest drive-thru. One burger and a can of lager per lap, compulsory. That should level the running a bit…

reminds me of a time when we had some sort of charity day in an office I worked in and there was a hotdog eating competition (which I am apparently not very good it despite being fat) and 2 lads had equal high scores at the end of the day and there was only one prize.

So I suggested a tie-breaker which was a lap round the carpark 400m or so and then eat a hotdog on the finish line, was a quite a majestic sight.

Santa cruz geo charts and build kits are based on 120 fork with either.

Only thing I can think of is the restriction to 120mm forks but I’m not exactly hardcore so think 120mm will be enough. Currently on an XL 26″ Soul with 100mm forks.

from the SC website

Fork Compatibility 120mm-140mm

why not just carry a split link instead? much lighter than a tool, much quicker and cheaper too

how do you remove the broken bit of chain to fit the split link?

Specialized EMT pro MTB is great, very light 104g (hollowed out tools) and very flat so takes up little space in saddle bags etc. The road specific ones lacks a chain tool IIRC so the mtb is the better option.

of course MPG isn’t an issue the man has a RX8 for christs sake 😉

check the chainring bolts

There is the bunkhouse and cabins at bryn beetws which is right by the bike park/4X track in afan.

Orange crush is the main competitor i would say, think it has better forks, brakes etc but no dropper so probably rules it out…

I would say get the specialized fuse, they have just slashed the prices and for £1400 you can get the one that cost £2200 last year and IMO plus tyres are great for hardtails.

Windy and wet
Pedalling down hills
Slower than dad

I think the rs shocks can use bog standard, readily available air. It just needs a bit more frequent servicing.

I’m pretty sure all shocks are like this, however the cynic in me thinks they want our money… Looking at you fox…

The air chamber is just that… Air.

So you can do an air can service on most shocks with just seals and oil. If however you want to service the actual damper it contains 400~psi of nitrogen and you can do it if you have the right tools and compressed nitrogen…

Wait until the 3rd time they have “fixed” them with new parts and then give it a try… maybe

or just buy some 36s and be done with it 😉

I sent one back that had a worn shaft that was 6 weeks old (bike not built until about 2 weeks into that 6 weeks) and they said it was worn due to lack of maintenance…

You dont need the nitrogen “recharged” as such as it is a sealed system just needs to be released/refilled when the damper is rebuilt usually at a full service.

There is a 12 splined one for raceface, be easier to take it to a LBS to take it off rather than spending on a tool you wont use again if you are binning the RF BB (which you should)

Look up Shack-wrap on facebook, he does kits so might have one if he has done one before, alternatively he has a shop in bury where he can do it for you.

I don’t think one exists, the socket one for 30mm park do is for race face etc which have 12 splined rather than 16 like hope iirc.

I’m going for a compromise this time.

I had the 150mm “enduro” bike was a bit boring and too easy as i haven’t got the skills or confidence to take it anywhere near its limit. Went back to a decent hardtail and it makes some stuff more interesting/fun but takes the fun out of the rougher stuff.

So I’ve got my hands on a 130mm frame that will be run with 150/160 forks with offset bushes to make it nice and slack, only half done so far but hopefully it will be what i want.

Should have a size written on the outside of the bearing If it’s not too rusty.

Could be worse the cost of gingernuts has gone up 30% this month….

Bastards didn’t put that on the side of a bus did they

It’s the stupid “tubeless easy” thing schwalbe started doing which should actually be called “easy to put on but so **** loose they won’t go up tubeless”

On the SRAM ones you can just take a pin out and remove the shift lever. Not sure on Shimano and wouldn’t be as good anyway as the brake lever would still swivel.

saying you want 450 reach is kind of pointless unless we know what sort of seatube length/size.

hardly anything with 76 degree seat-tube angle.

Closest of the top of my head based on your numbers is the new tracer.

Looks good, needs a dropper 😉

I always have the intention of using cheap 2nd hand parts but I’ve already spent way over what my 2nd hand from cost in new parts to go on it.