Well you say that but they just supply medium settings as per my house-mates phone calls the other day. Mojo said if you buy it from them and its totally wrong they will take it back and change it for free, but not up front.

On the hope website it is labelled as HUB231 which if you quote to your hope importer they may backtrack on “it doesnt exist” and find it for you.

I just got mine from here Also here and CRC

Edit: it is just a normal 135×12 with longer spacers on it. So if you are already 135×12 then just pop the caps on, if you are qr or 10mm you will need to pop the new axle in.

2013 Mega AM Pro

They cant run piggy back shocks as far as I am aware.

If you want a dh race (none of it hard/can ride round the road gaps) then the Morgins 4 piste race is awesome fun. 1 run down the blue, yellow and red tracks and then a secret track, total time for position. Hard to find information on it so asking the lifties is the easiest way of finding out when it is. About 20 euros plus lift pass if you don’t have one.

Cassette lock nut will fill the void.

Lever in normal position with lots of fluid in the bleed cup. Keep an eye on the level as it can go down quick.

Edit: if you get it bled and feels firm with the bleed block but the pistons wont advance when you put pads in, as though you have sticky pistons, adjust the lever so it is full out/reach and bite point is at a minimum movement. It should allow more fluid to move when you pull the lever and push the pistons out further to over come the resistance of the piston seals.

On the new ones you aren’t meant to

shimano method of squeeze, open nipple, close nipple, release

until they towards the end of the bleeding procedure. fluid wont go through as it gets air locked and the air pushes the fluid back up when you release the lever.

They can be fiddly so I just pump fluid up from the bottom with a syringe, then lock the nipple, back pressure the syringe and jam the syringe open so its holding a large vacuum. then open and close the nipple rapidly to suck the air and fluid back down. For me it works better than their official method which I couldn’t get to work to save my life.

As yunki says, superstar sintered. Last long and give you top end braking unlike kevlars or organics which get hot and fade all too quick

Poke the part that needs to go through with a small allen key. But be careful as it can pierce the rubber if you are too aggressive.

Erm… DH bike – layback post? Why are you sitting down? Dh bikes often feel short and cramped if you are sat down, means that the seat is out of the way when you are stood up riding it. Though as you are tall this may not be a problem for you.

If you are feeling cramped when stood up then you need to increase the length from bb to bars. So your options are longer stem (normal range of 45-55mm, 60mm if you really have to), or a frame with a longer effective top tube.

It says its out of 7.9 at the top of the score page.

Just hope the Ramblers aren’t reading this while deciding whether to back opening footpaths up to cyclists.

There are no footpaths in this area (only 1 at the north border). Like cyclists, walkers are only permitted on the fire-roads not on any of the singletrack/small paths.

cynic-al – Member

but the pics above show the rotor as rotating counterclockwise?

I was meaning the pics of 6 or so discs in one post.

Disc goes on the left side of the wheel, wheel rotates in a forward direction = counterclockwise from the outside/left side. No?

Still going to be the same volume at bottom out isn’t it? If sealed damper then leave it the same, if open bath you could possibly get away with changing the damping oil volume to tune the ramp up. (You can do that with marzocchi (within limits) anyway as a tuning tool for ramp up)

The disc (braking surface) should be in tension, the spokes should be in compression.

might have read it wrong: won’t come off the cranks or is it stuck as in wont spin?

Turning it the right way (bike upside down, allen key/spanner pointing towards the front of the bike and push down/smack with a mallet or a shoe)? Tried penetrating oil? Pour boiling water over it?

finners – Member

Some nice looking bikes here. Keep em coming…..

Wibble89 – 3 months in the Alps?!! what are your plans? jealous….

Working as a bike mechanic. Going to be hard work building up near 200 bikes at the start of the season and checking over/ servicing them twice a week but half a days riding every day and the odd day off will make it all worth while. I’ve got a friend who is also going out for 3 months but he’s not working as he is living off a game he made for android phones, lucky ****.

Photo from when I built it in December, now just covered in mud. The faster you go the better it is! Only 1 month to go before 3 glorious months in Morzine.

A good starting point is somewhere in the following price bracket depending on condition. The only thing that might have added value would be the LG1 depending on what it had before.

original bike price * (2/3)^(age in years)

original bike price * 0.5 * 0.9^(age in years – 1)

The short is a perfect size when out of the saddle. Sitting and spinning it was small, but fine with the saddle back on the rails.

I may have missed something above but are you sure that you need a short? A long one is only 2cm longer in effective TT but would put your saddle rails in a sensible place. Also the long diva is just a normal 14 inch five with different spec parts unless I am mistaken.

Unless you want to pedal miles round on the fire road you are probably best pushing up the track. The track finishes in the carpark as you enter on the left.

map(ish) down at the bottom in the little layby.

If you zoom out slightly and look south west you will see the track in the open, as it enters the trees at the top it goes straight up the slight clearing/path and then there is some flattish track at the top.

They do this for the supreme DH V3, don’t know if it would fit.

Don’t bother waiting for them to come into stock at rosebikes just order them! They go out of stock as quick as they come in so never show as instock as they are filling back orders. A friend and I ordered at different times and both came within about a week or so, first one about 3-4 days after ordering and the out of stock one about 3 days later.

tbh it is probably that i’m looking at them using my (bad for colour) screen. Really like most of them but there are a couple that seem washed with no real colour saturation or a little too sharp for my eye (these are two things my screen really does badly, gamma is too high and the contrast is terrible but its nice and big). So probably best to ignore me really.

Most of those are lovely, a few seem not so good and (imo) detract a little from the portfolio.

Plus lots of them are wrecked by having a marin in them 😉

He says NON FIT, so open bath

Empty it and put 20 ml in the damper side fork leg.

isnt going to work well is it. As above if you are adding it through the lowers you may need to add a little at a time and cycle the damper, or you can add it to the top in one go. As its open bath the damping oil is also the lowers/lubing oil.

Could be as above, or if there are lots of diagonal lines made by the treads showing through and these have progressed into the splits that you describe then its to do with the tyre folding over/flexing too much in corners etc due to too low tyre pressure.

Says 2008 but looks like 2009-2011

Think they have just labelled them all wrong as their 2007 mech hangers are actually 2009-2011 as well.

I’m not really sure but this might be a good place to start 😉

until they settle at their natural position which would be B in the diagram

Hence why I said assuming they stay in place. 😉

I would have thought that to slacken your bike without changing the ‘effective’ i2i you simply put them both in the 3 o’clock position, there by shifting the whole shock to the right. On my Socom I think that would slacken the H/A and drop the BB

Nope, the only way to slacken the bike is to reduce the effective i2i. Moving the whole shock either direction wont have any effect as the bolts/pins will still be in the same place.

Well if we are really going to analyse this to death:

Instead of running them in the 3 and 9 O’clock possition, if you ran them in the 12 or 6 O’clock position you could (depending on your linkage and assuming they will stay in place) change the progression curve of your suspension. 🙂

Well it was there when you got in the car so you might have seen it then. Your photos from drivers hight is soooooo wrong, you cant see your bonnet and your side mirror is showing way up the wall, no sign of the ground at all so its impossible to tell if you really could or couldn’t see it.

On the other hand it is up within the traffic road way which may be a point you could argue.

“UK” for 15 off 100 isn’t it until noon 20th

Not binding, CRC only offer an invitation to treat

My brother rented a canon 1D mark IV (I think it was anyway) last year as a backup for one of his jobs. The other week he got an email from someone asking if he had ever rented one as this guy had just bought it “brand new” from the shop full price and all my brothers info was still on it. Cheeky buggers, and he wasn’t the first person to rent it out.

Why would you put any more stress on the frame unless you were going to ride the bike harder / over bigger drops once the fork has been sortened to suit?

Same forces acting at the axle = same forces acting at the steering head no mater if its a triple crown or not.

Well depends on axle-crown length doesn’t it what with moment = force x distance. Also stiffer forks will put a higher impulse through the headtube (this may be counter acted by softer/plusher forks) so higher peak force.

Does your air spring have an oil seal and a foam ring or 2 oil seals? If it has the foam ring then fox had an issue of the lowers oil flowing past the 1 seal and getting into the air chamber, reducing the volume and increasing ramp up. You can either get hold of the new seals, or when you service them add the oil to the air spring, then pressurise it to 50psi or so then pop the lowers on and pop the oil in the lowers. This is a bit of a bodge but it makes the air seal expand and seal better so the oil doesn’t get in the wrong place.

Do they drain the oil on the mojo video or just turn the bike upside down and remove the lowers, clean the seals and pop back together? if its the latter then you only need to replace what drips out. However if thats all you are doing the oil will still likely be filthy and you really wont have gained anything, you might as well do it properly and replace all the oil.

Edit, too slow

Most of Rheola is fine, gentle gradient so you can just let off the brakes the more confident you are. The only difficult bit is the steep rut before starwars (it’s not steep, but the rut makes it more difficult) and starwars ruts, the rest is fine and all rollable.

Video of mine showing you how to do the top section[/url]

Full run 1[/url]

Full run 2[/url]