Anti-clockwise on drive side and clockwise on non-drive side is correct. It isnt rotational friction that keeps the cups tight, its due to precession linky

The pedal bodies should be identical. However one end will have a bushing press fitted into it that you would have to remove and refit to the other end so that the axle could be inserted from the other end.

Known problem and they’ll warranty it no questions if within the warranty period and you have a receipt. Mine did it last summer, brake lever didn’t return locking on the brake… Fun crash that one.

You can bodge a 10 speed shimano rear mech to work as a 9 speed mech with a 6mm shim on the cable bolt paired with a 9 speed sram shifter. If you want to run it 10 speed then needs to be with a 10 speed shimano shifter

Connect the shock back to the frame at the free end, then pull up on the frame/saddle while preventing the rear of the bike from lifting. This will pull it (at least partly) out. You may want to place something thin between the seat tube and swingarm to prevent it hitting and chipping the paint. They get stuck sometimes as the paint compresses causing the shock hardware to sit in a bit of a dip.

sure you have the 142 spacers and not the 135 ones?

that conveniently perfectly counterbalances the weight of the rear wheel. Which is better?

I think its not just the counter balance that need to be looked at. the shorter the counter balance lever the closer the mass will become to unsprung, the longer the lever the worse the unsprung effect will be. Reasoning although moments wxl=w1xl1 cancel out, but the accelerations may have something to do with v^2

Think they are single use. Time for a chain splitter.

OEM stock isn’t it.

edit, very slow fingers/typing.

This is a good one for you, with a little swearword.

http://www.pinkbike.com/video/241837/

Not a video but really good comprehensive service instructions for the rebas can be found here if you haven’t already got them. Worth noting that not all rebas can be extended as some OEM ones are only a max of 100mm or 110mm, but you won’t necessarily find out until you have opened them and found that there is no travel spacer in them.

http://www.sram.com/service/rockshox/7,103

you sure about that? from the pic above it looks like it would only fit to matchmaker style brake clamps, ie it doesn’t have it’s own bar clamp.

The reverb remote is the bar clamp. There is a spacer that can take the place of the brake lever but it is not necessary to use it.

Good spot. Bank account now only slightly lighter.

mainstream Pleney

not this year…

Your bike will be fine for everything if you are a competent rider. A week or two will only destroy the rear mech (as the bushing in it will go super floppy), everything else should be fine if you have some dual ply tyres. Normally worth giving forks and shocks a quick lowers/air can service before going if you’re capable.

If under light pressure it seems to work, but then with added pressure it clicks/gives and moves to the bar then it is likely that the main seal (or glide ring next to it) in the lever has worn/moved slightly out of position.

If its just spongy all the way through the lever travel then it probably just needs a bleed.

Short lived KOM 🙁

Still I’m not sure my 150mm Meta AM with minions on is the most competitive (getting my excuses in). As you say I think 2 minutes is possible though I think my limit is 2:05.

They probably dont have enough oil in the lowers. My new Fox’s felt terrible, really sticky with no movement until big hits and pretty much bottoming out, opened them up and no oil came out the spring side (obviously some coating the surfaces but none spare.

After lowers service they were lovely.

pjm84 – Member

Bugger that is another second I will have to find somehow….

Sorry DT78 …. You’re going to need to find some more. KOM time now 2:20min

Sorry pjm84 and DT78 but its now down to 2:13 😀

90degrees is one of the few that is evading me. Will have to man up and mash those pedals at some point.

If it helps shock sizes are, in inches and mm:
6.00 x 1.25 >> 152×32
6.50 x 1.50 >> 165×38
7.25 x 1.75 >> 184×44
7.50 x 2.00 >> 191×51
7.875 x 2.00 >> 200×51
7.875 x 2.25 >> 200×57
8.50 x 2.50 >> 216×64
8.75 x 2.50 >> 222×64
9.50 x 3.00 >> 241×76

Just the fluid that sits behind the pistons. It goes lever piston > fluid > calliper piston.

You just pop it back in carefully and then will need to bleed the brake as there will be loads of air in there. Nothing to worry about.

Shocks/shock bush top hats/reducers are held in place by clamping force provided by the bold and not by the bolt itself (i.e. not the shear resistance of the bolt, except possibly on bottom out) which is why you are not meant to grease any part of the bush or pin (you can grease or loctite the threads if you wish).

So it looks like they had just forgotten to tighten up the bolt, you/it will be fine if the play is now irradiated.

Destination country is what he was getting at I would have thought…

Mine was a lot more painful in a sling than free to move. Not much you can do to aid the process as far as I can remember, but a 2 week trip DHing in Morzine only 3 weeks after separating mine sorted it out, though the first week was extremely painful and I couldn’t really pull up on the bars, the second week it was fine.

Re-fit hose with olives and barbs still on is fine if they are going back on the same model of brake. e.g. swapping hoses side to side on new xt’s because they came euro style.

cutting olives off and trying to get them on new hoses, not going to work.

pulling the lever and its touching my fingers

So is the bite point moving inwards over time/as the pads wear? If so then its the brakes not the pads where the issue lies. Could be sticky pistons/air in the system/not enough fluid in the brakes causing either the pistons to not be pushed out or excessive negative pressure in the reservoir sucking the pistons back in.

If you pump/pull on the brake lever in quick succession does the bite point move?

wwaswas – Member

Housebuilders “stole” a bit of the park behind my house 30 years ago

So you want to formalise the theft of public land?

Isn’t that how all land ownership started…

looks like these will do:
CRC
or
UKbikestore, looks the same, may have postage on top

I haven’t played with the CCDB air, but possibly the negative air chamber hasn’t equalised with the increased pressure of the positive air chamber? If you lower the pressure back down to 100psi does it stop the bad top out?

ain1775 – Member

Regardless, still won’t fit my Commie Meta AM
Central collars no good for me. This is the only BB that will fit – http://www.bike-discount.de/shop/a55628/bottom-bracket-cups-dura-ace-sm-fc7800p.html?lg=en&cr=GBP&cn=gb

Any bb71 or bb91 (41A) will fit, but you have to take a hacksaw to it first to cut one half of the protruding edge off. I was glad to have the hacksaw handy when I discovered that the original bb92 had been cut by commencal in the factory.

But as you say this makes the hope useless to us

Main difference is that the bolts are at a different diameter from centre of BB

Probably worth £50 for the rear end for someone that needs a replacement after cracking their own and £60-70 for the shock.

PP my 3x shifter works fine with my 2x mech but is has a full outer with only about 4cm exposed so may hide the baggy issue. Had a quick look and I get about 4mm cable length of slack.

Cable is normally slack in granny gear, only tensioned in middle (and large if you have it) positions. Limit screws sort granny gear and cable tension sorts middle.

chestrockwell – Member

I thought they were meant to go down 15% every day at 11am? They have not today

Still a great price though.

Read and you will find out…did you think it was for eternity?

Fine to sell it as cracked, be completely honest with as many photos as possible. There is value in the rear shocks if you still have them and the rear triangles are presumably fine which someone may need.

Remove all rings and bash, place the larger ring or its replacement in the middle position (where it came from) with shorter bolts or original bolts and spacers. Done.

No need to fiddle with chain line at all, you can use all your gears in your larger (middle) ring at the moment right?

I wouldn’t touch Elixir 1’s if you can. Every other bike rental place in Morzine and Les Gets removed theirs before renting out, we didn’t (I think they had experienced them before). I probably bled each one over 20 times in the summer, 2 or 3 broke completely and replaced with elixir 3’s which were faultless and never needed bleeding.

Elixir 7’s should do you well.

I may try and get hold of Loco tomorrow and see if he can shed some light on it, but any opinion/views welcome.