Def wear then. I have that in my knackered derailleurs. It is the pins/ bushes that are worn, the spring will be slightly slack but it is new derailleur time.
Mech is Shimano Sora and done just short of 10k miles.
That is a lot of miles (10k=10 000). Mech is probably worn beyond use hence the up shifts ok but the down not since the mech can “open” more than expected due to wear. I’m surprised it does not try to shift back half a gear when you shift up. .
I take it the shock is the correct one ie 190×50 and there are no offset bushes. Is there a bump stop in the shock?.
If I let all the iar ot of my shock and compress it right up to the bump stop there is still a gap between ther rear tyre and seat tube.
If the spokes are too long, protrude too far past the top of the nipples, you run the risk of the thread bottoming out. Ie the spokes will not tighten any more only twist. If every 3rd spoke seems like it was ‘super loose’ you have probably made a lacing error. As said best to measure the erd and calc the spoke length yourself. Tightening each nipple the same amount is key to even tension and a good base starting point.
joints need to be in an enclosure. wago or similar would be my preference. crimps are fine if the correct size and a propper ratchet crimper is used. earth needs to be sleeved and no conductor (copper) exposed outside the crimps or inner sleeve (blue, brown or earth) exposed outside of the junction box/ wagobox/ socket. cable needs to be clipped to wall.
fitting in under sink cabinet is allowed but is not the best idea unless no other accessible cabinet close by.
as said by others the electricians body (NICEIC/ ELECSA etc) are the people to call although they will ask if you have discussed it with the electrician first.
rule of thumb is reduce the stem by 10mm for every 20mm of bar width increase to keep you in the same position. so 30mm more bars means 15mm less stem ie 55mm whihc is either a 50mm or a 60mm depending on if you think you woudl like to be slightly further back of forward, prob a 50mm unless you already feel cramped on the bike.
Wet lube does the same (if too much is put in) although prob not quite as much as float fluid would. Wet lube is designed as stickier than float fluid, I assume due to their intended different base uses.
I use the lightest I can. Finish line, can’t remember what but almost like water. Sometimes I just use wet lube but this is not so good for waterproofing.
I considered arches for my new wheels, on a 5, but decided on flows for a bit more strength and width. Very pleased with my choice. The weight diff was not much of an issue since I was not looking for a weight weenie build or I would not have gone for 900g tyres when I could have used 700g tyres. I tend to err on the side of stronger and keep it longer.
266 and 264. Assuming you measured the ERD yourself and did not use the rim manufacturer number. Also make sure you gave the dt calculator the exact info it asked for, not what you think it wanted. Eg Sapim wants rim inner diam and thickness.
I was recommended to use sapim (over DT) although both my other wheels are DT. The marketing guff does seem to point to nice nipple with the sapim (accepts a slight angle on the spoke due to the head shape).
This will be my first build hence the where to get spokes questions. I will look at the ACI spokes. Any one in particular?
Are the 821’s stiffer than the flows? I am being told that the mavic spoke tension is less than the stans although the web is saying 100-125kg for both so no different.
the tyres are slipping on the rim when you brake. clean the rim where the tyre seats as well as the hook and replace the tyres, you may get away with it by just cleaning the rim and tyres.
Gripshift is fairly light. I find xt shifters particularly light as well (will need new mech and changer though). Also make sure cables and outers are good, don’t grease cable since it makes it stickier in the outer.
