Thanks for the suggestions.

I’ve adjusted the B screw to fully wound in and it’s made a big difference. Just pedalled hard along the road dragging the back brake for a bit of resistance and it’s not slipping anymore but still has a slight hint that it might. I’ll swapping the screw around as suggested for that extra half turns worth before the next proper ride.

My chain length was too short originally so I’ve bought a new chain but not taken any links out yet. What would be the best way of getting the chain length right?

Everything is brand new. So I should be screwing the b screw all the way in then I take it?

The ones on bike discount aren’t the stealth ones as far as I can see but perhaps I’m missing them?

I’ve sold 2 in the last few weeks. One I sold whole and the other split into frame and parts. I got reasonable prices for both but both were in great condition and not too common.

If your Meta is in good condition then there’ll be someone out there who will want it. I’ve had a Meta and they’re great bikes.

I would suggest cleaning and servicing it really well and take as many good photos as you can. Then think about where you’re advertising it whether it be on this forum, pinkbike, Gumtree or eBay. EBay is the best way of getting the most people to see your ad but then to you have to account for fees. Starting at a low price with a higher reserve works well on eBay. Give people plenty of time to make bids on eBay to allow more people to join the bidding and get them hooked into competitive bidding.

Don’t expect it to sell right awayon the forums , people do scan through old classifieds for a bargain so they’ll get to yours eventually.

At the end of the day it’ll sell for what someone thinks it’s worth. It’s really down to you how long you’re willing to hold out for a price you’re happy with.

Frazchops where did you get your stealth transx one from?

Mttm what size is your bike? The chain was too short when going big ring to big ring when it was 3×10 but obviously I’d never use that gear anyway. Going 34 to 40 probably uses about the same length of chain and under compression gets worse. Perhaps they put the same length chain on all of the bikes and on my xl it’s a little too short to convert to 1×10.

So I guess the original question still stands. Would a short cage rear mech have any increased benefit over just getting a longer chain?

Has anyone converted their trigger 4 to 1×10. I’ve just set mine up 34×11-40 and hit the problem of the chain being too short when the suspension compresses. The question is do I keep the long cage rear mech and just buy a new longer chain or would swapping to a medium cage rear mech have added benefits?

I went through this process about 6 months ago using H Plus Son Archetype rims. Things I learned:
1. Use stans or Tesa tape. Gorilla tape is rubbish and very messy to try and get off.
2. Stans sealant is far better that Joes and Slime which both work ok for mtb but were useless for road. I’ve not tried home made sealant but I guess you can adapt it accordingly.
3. Hutchison Fusion 3 tubeless tyres are pretty poor. They cut up far to easily and get large slits that sealant has no chance of filling at 80 psi. I’m going to try some schwalbe ones as they’re cheap at the moment.
4. Tubeless gives a nice smooth ride but if you don’t have tyres that can stand up to the roads you regularly ride then it can be a real pain.

So basically I got everything wrong initially because I was trying to do it on the cheap. I also based the decisions on advice given on here so you should probably ignore this. :lol:

No worries. Good luck with mini gringo!

Now posted in the classifieds.

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Yeah the price of them just seems steep for what they are, I’d expected around 15 pounds. I thought there would be some cheaper alternative but can’t find anything. Second hand looks like the way to go.

That’d be good edd. Pictures to email in profile please.

So I found a bit of info on the MBR killer loop at Bolt’s Law. If I was to just go to Blanchland and do the loop from there which way round is it best to go? I can’t tell from the map which direction the loop is set. Cheers.

I think Hamsterley is a bit closer but the nature of the roads means it takes a fair bit longer to get there. Thanks for the tips. I’ll check them out.

I had it done as part of a government scheme where it was free a few years ago. I must say I’ve not noticed much different other than the house stays quite cold in the summer. It’s hard to assess its economical benefits because the bills keep getting increased anyway but if you can get it for free I would if only because it is a good tick to have in the box when selling if you ever do.

I think in terms of feeling the benefit other measures have been more noticeable. For instance we have Karndean laminate flooring throughout the ground floor and since insulating under the floor I don’t know if the house is kept much warmer but not having cold feet certainly makes it feel that way.

In terms of your conservatory they may be able to get the beads to fall all the way down the cavity but when they did mine they required the injection holes to be a certain maximum distance apart so not sure.

That’s alot more help than I’d expected to be honest. Coming from Scotland I’m not quite sure how far any sort of right to roam can stretch in Englandshire. Am I likely to get shot if I go off the way mark trails?

Hoping to sell it whole Glenn but maybe if you make me an offer I’ll find it hard to resist. The frame and shock will come with the fsa headset if I do decide to split.

Cheers

Gringo, I’ve decided to sell my Bolt Long as I’ve come to accept that it’s just too small for me. I’m initially trying to sell the whole bike but may end up splitting and selling frame and shock only. I wondered if it was of any interest to you?

DMR Bolt Long of any interest?

I set mine up tubeless and they were fine for the first ride but then left the bike in the car all day and by the time I took it out they were deflated. Now the front one stays inflated for about 10 mins before being completely flat again having leaked at the valve and at the beads . Might use a Co2 inflator to get the beads properly seated or just go back to tubes.

On another note, would I be crazy to swap all of the 10spd slx and deore for my 9spd xtr? I like the double down shift of xtr and the 10spd stuff might be easier to sell off I decide to split my old bike. I assume the freewheel is still the same for 9 and 10spd.

Isn’t that a 31.6 seatpost rather than 31.9? That’s certainly what the spec says on the Pauls website.

Nebno6 I bought an xl and am 6’4″ and I certainly wouldn’t want it to be any bigger or it’d feel too big. It might be worth giving a large a shot.

Chojin my xl has about 5 inches of seatpost sticking out. I’m 6’4″ so I think that’ll be as low as I ever need it but I can see how it’d be a problem for someone between sizes. I think they spec a longer post on the large and xl too.

Just received my trigger 4. It looks awesome. Doesn’t look at all like a gate as some xl bikes tend to. Feels like a really good fit compared to bikes I’ve previously bought because they were good value rather than the right size. Looking forward to getting out on it at the weekend.

Ok I give in. I’ve ordered a trigger 4. Just too good to miss at that price. Going to have to sell both my mtbs to justify it though. Anyone want an Orange R8 or DMR Bolt Long? :wink:

Does anyone know if they beef up the rotor sizes on the larger sizes? I’ve gone for the xl.

I had a similar thing on my road bike and ended up using a donor bike to systematically rule out components as being the problem. It ended up being the spokes of the back wheel which for whatever reason ended up creaking under power when it was dry. I added a bit of oil to the spokes and cleaned up where they cross over each other and it solved the problem. No idea why it should have happened but might have been that i’d spilled some tubeless solution on them or something that made them stick together slightly. Problem solved for me anyway.

Thanks for the replies. I think I’ll go for the PX core ones as they’d been my initial thought and your advice would seem to suggest they’ll be a good fit for me.

Cheers

That’s what I’d like. Previously I was only concerned that it was generally green :roll:

That’s what I wondered. I imagine the particularly potent stuff will damage the lawn as well as obliterating the weeds or is there some chemical that can differentiate between the two?

I’ve got a Bolt Long. Like it a lot. I’ve just been to Fort William and done the Red and World Cup courses on it. Great bike for that sort of thing – truly indestructible. I’ve basically built it up as a downhill-light bike that suits everything up to where my skills and bravery reach their limit. SLX kit with Rockshox Sektors, Stans Flows and some big Maxxis tyres make for a lot of downhill fun on a reasonably modest budget.

The obvious negative is that it’s a bit heavier than some but then I suspect it’s a lot stronger than some too. It also has to run 1x as there’s no room for a front mech. Neither of these things bothered me when I bought it and they still don’t. As thepodge says, they’re shorter than bikes in fashion right now but for me I tend to be hanging off the back pointing downhill most of the time anyway so I’m not too worried about that (I’m 6′ 4”). Another negative might be that you’d be limited in choice if considering a dropper post as the seatpost is 27.2mm.

In terms of pedaling it’s not too bad at all. I’ve got the standard x-fusion shock on and it’s fine but would probably be improved with a pro pedal or something like that. I’ve taken it around Glentress, Comrie, Laggan etc. with no problems and have done plenty of natural trails but it certainly isn’t one for eating up the miles on fire roads.

Another negative might be that you’d be limited in choice if considering a dropper post as the seatpost is 27.2mm.

Given that you’re replacing a fairly aggressive hardtail it sounds like it’d be perfect unless it’ll then be your only bike. There are better options out there if a do it all is what’s needed.

I’d bought a few to try previously but sent them all back because they didn’t feel good but recently I bought these with a trip to Fort William in mind.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/leatt-knee-guard-3df-2015/rp-prod89058?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQjwsIWvBRCnzevvor2g4L8BEiQAAN234bry7qViFBKfERartEGEuS4amLh2HUXA1FGqdrMGMh4aAsuY8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

They seem to have good protection with comfortable straps. I’ve worn them all day at Comrie and Fort William and never gave them a second thought.

I try to go to Hamsterley every time I visit the outlaws. It takes about an hour from their house.

I really enjoy the black, it’s got a variety of singletrack from man made berms, jumps and drops to tricky rooty chutes that are a real challenge to ride quickly in the wet. Route 66 is a challenging technical climb and the fire road climb up to the downhill club hut is a lung buster but good exercise. All this tied in with a few ride-able stream crossings make the black a lot of fun. In 3 hours you’ll get 2-3 laps in of that with a few stops for a bite.

I’ve not done the red as much purely because it has a ridiculously high proportion of dull fire road involved. I’m sure the locals will know how to cut most of this out but there is nothing obvious on the route maps as far as I’m aware. There are some good man made downhill sections though so if you don’t mind a bit of fire road and want a bit of a longer loop then that could be a good option.

All in all a decent little network of trails that’s worth a look if it’s only an hour away.

I might do that thanks househusband. I’ll see how it goes tomorrow. Have got a trip to Fort William planned in a couple of weeks and have visions of my front wheel exploding halfway down the dh :(

It’s the front wheel. The ones that I’ve tightened are really quite tight I think. I wouldn’t want to tighten them any further for fear of breaking something. The loose ones are only comparatively loose really rather than seeming generally too loose if that makes sense.

Yeah that’s what I was thinking of doing. Going to give it a test tomorrow so will see what happens. I’d definitely like to get good at it and the basic principles appear to be straightforward but I just can’t find the time to sit down and make a proper job of it.

I’ve listened to 6 music for years now and never got over just how awful the presenters are. I Particularly hate when we are actually ‘taught’ how to listen to ‘good’ music. Some of it’s tongue and cheek but generally the presenters seem to totally self involved egotists.

For me there is one exception to this and that is Radcliffe and Maconie. Their genuine interest in the music, musicians and guests that they present shines through and is delivered with a level of humility and good humour that other presenters on the station will never be able to imitate. Perhaps it’s just because they’re not too preoccupied with having to make a name for themselves.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/miche-primato-pair-of-road-hubs/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360348290&ci_src=18615224&ci_sku=5360348290uk&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign&utm_medium=base&utm_content=s0CygGU1T_dc%7cpcrid%7c67090789142%7cpkw%7c%7cpmt%7c%7cprd%7c5360348290uk

I have these. They’ve done 3000 miles in some awful weather and spin beautifully still without a hint of maintenance. No idea about weight etc. but they’ve built up into a nice set of wheels with H Plus Son rims. I’d have to win the lottery before I considered buying anything more expensive.

Still can’t seem to find much in the way of second hand frames for 26″ wheels in xl size . Have been searching to see if I can find a cannondale flash but no luck so far . Am slightly tempted by a giant anthem too as they seem to be easier to find. Will keep looking :-)

I’ve had a soul before but that was very similar in size to the Orange. I don’t think they do bigger than a 19”.

Cove Handjob or Kinesis Decade are good calls. Maybe even a Cove Hummer if I can find one.