If you are interested, other interesting Russian novels of a similar nature to War and Peace include And Quiet Flows the Don by Michail Sholokovsky. Its about life before, during and after the first world war. It’s been recently re-issued. Fairly easy to read too and a bit gory in parts. Another classic, which is much harder to read, is Life and Fate by Vasily Grossman. It covers the lives of characters during the second world war. This book was banned in Russia, because it was considered too close to real life.

Worth a read. After the first 500 pages it gets interesting, with the Napoleon wars and all that.

Thanks for your comments. I have been carrying the Leatherman Juice in my backpack, but I have found that the pliers are so small that its almost useless when you need it for trailside repairs (it is light tho!) :-)

There is a good LBS in Alcudia – chainguide. They hire out mountain bikes and provide guiding if needed. May be worth getting in touch with them.

Link: http://www.chainguidemallorca.com

Loco sorted mine out when I had a similar problem a few years ago. I just had to remove the rod, post it to him and receive it fixed a few days later.

I think its aluminium, which explains why it feels like cheese as you shear it.

I recommend you get a torque wrench when you re fit it.

In addition to all the sensible advice about getting the right bike, the right location, the right terrain, the right weather and the right duration I would suggest Sherwood Pines as an ideal location, if its not too far to get to.

It is relatively flat and has a dedicated Green, Blue and Red route. Because the routes loop out from the car park, then most of the time, you are never more than 15/20 mins ride away from the visitor centre (by fire road).

I always take beginners there and let them dictate the pace and duration. For example, when they get off to walk, I see that as a sign that maybe we need to think about how we get back. We always have lots of breaks and chats, to make it a pleasant sociable experience.

Hope that helps.

Muddy descent to Hope last Sunday. One friend was using the Powadfender. The other wasn’t. See pic:-

Who doesn’t have a Powa Dfender fitted to his forks? by TonyB_191[/url], on Flickr

(PS: I use the RRP neoprene protector)

Here you go… Link:

null

Stanage,ferns, rocks, rider, optional blue sky …

See flickr links to Lapierre Spicy 2012 (should be a close enough match). This was after much trial and error. Worked well in the end!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173355917/in/set-72157631976744873

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173393698/in/set-72157631976744873

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173390968/in/set-72157631976744873

https://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173396092/in/set-72157631976744873

Hope that helps!

Thanks Cheeky Monkey, much appreciated. I’ll give them a call at the Bike Barn.

It will be a shame if it is gone. It was a nice quiet section of trail where you could practice some well designed drop offs without a big crowd watching.

Thanks, sounds good :-)

and another …

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173393698/in/set-72157631976744873/

Best solution I’ve found is zipties. A couple of pics here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173390968/in/set-72157631976744873

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173355917/in/set-72157631976744873/

Hope that helps.

Haha. Yes it is. But the brake and shifters are right where they are supposed to be and I can use them easily without moving my hand. They are critical for good control, at all speeds.

The reverb requires hand movement, but that just means I need to think ahead for those occsaions when I need it.

Using the reverb has taken a bit of getting used to anyway, after all those years of dropping the saddle with the QR.

I’ve fitted a left hand reverb remote on the right, under the bars. It fits well, with no probs. I had already removed the displays from the shifters and mounted them outside the brake levers.

I have to move my hand to press the remote lever, but you get used to it. And I’d rather have easy access to the brakes and shifters.

See flickr links for some pics of the reverb remote (hope the links work):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173358457/in/set-72157631976744873

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tonyb_191/8173396092/in/set-72157631976744873/

Hope that helps…

I’ve bought a 32mm socket for a fiver and have removed the damper. So I just need to send the damper off for repair.

I will contact Loco and Mojo tomorrow for a quote. Hopefully I will be able to re-fit it OK without anymore problems.

Thanks for your advice guys, much appreciated!

:-)

Great advice thanks. Will remove the damper asap. And I guess it looks like I need a torque wrench after all…

Thanks LoCo. A job that I could do? Or LBS or Mojo service department?

If you have to stay overnight, then a good plan could be to set off early, drive down and meet up with Jedi on the first day.

Then stay overnight in Steveneage and put your new found Jedi skills into action at Chicksands during the second day.

Chicksands is about an hour or so north of Herts and is a few miles off the A1. Its quite small, so its good for sessioning. You can then drive home afterwards.

It was worth the long drive for us and the practice session at Chicksands helped imprint the skills asap.

I hope that helps.

Previous Endura shorts were fine. But my new Zyme shorts bought in the CRC sale popped open.

So I bought a Craghopper webbing belt for a fiver from ebay. Problem solved.

Link, if you’re interested:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRAGHOPPERS-BASECAMP-BELT-/200699482625?pt=Men_s_Accessories_UK&var=&hash=item746ced3daf

I replaced the dust seals recently and followed the following steps (for Fox Float 36 forks) –

Required –

? Float oil
? 10wt suspension oil
? Foam washers, dust seals and crush washers
? Syringe, or a baby bottle
? Clean rags
? Workstand
? Bucket (for waste oil)
? Small container (for foam seal soaking)
? Socket set
? Spanners
? Screwdriver
? Allen keys
? Mallet
? Shock pump

Process –
1. Pre-soak the new foam washers in float oil
2. Put bike in workstand
3. Remove the air from the forks
4. Remove front wheel
5. Remove brake calliper
6. Check for any scratches on the stanchions
7. Unscrew the bottom nuts and crush washers
8. Tap the threads (with nuts on, to protect the thread)
9. Drain the old suspension oil into a waste bucket
10. Remove the lower legs
11. Wipe clean, to remove any dirt and dust
12. Using an open spanner, remove the old seals and foam washers
13. Wipe clean again
14. Fit new seals and foam washers (use some oil on the dust seals)
15. Flip the bike upside down
16. Re-fit the lower legs
17. Inject suspension oil into the lower legs via the bottom nut holes, in the correct amounts
18. Tighten the bottom nuts and new crush washers (check the torque required)
19. Re-fit the brake calliper
20. Re-fit the front wheel
21. Pump the air back in (55lbs/sq in)
22. Pump the front suspension a few times
23. Voilá

Suspension oil volumes –
54) 2010, 2011 36 FLOAT 160, 130 & 100
(O/B R damper)
FOX Green 10 wt. Damper 155.0
Spring-side O/B 25.0
FOX Float Fluid Air Chamber 5.0

I hope that helps. Make sure you refer to the Fox spec sheets and have the correct amount of suspension oil in each side.

Finally, if you don’t use a torque wrench, check for leaks when you have got the bike stood the right way up.

Yes, you can ride it. If you start from Dixons Hollow car park and follow the red route down through the berms for a few hundred yards and onto the fire road. Turning right, you will start to come across the World Cup XC features (mostly black graded, if I remember right).

anto164, I changed the dust seals on my 2010 36 float forks last weekend.

I ordered the 10wt suspension oil, the seal kits and two small sachets of float oil from Mojo.

After watching a few vids, here’s a list of gear and steps which you may find useful(I replaced the suspension oil):

Required –

? Float oil
? Suspension oil
? Foam washers, dust seals and crush washers
? Syringe (I used a baby bottle)
? Clean rags
? Degreaser
? Grease
? Workstand
? Bucket (for waste oil)
? Small container (for foam seal soaking)
? Socket set
? Spanners
? Screwdriver
? Allen keys
? Hex keys (just in case)
? Mallet
? Synthetic gloves
? Shock pump

Process –
1. Put bike in workstand
2. Remove the air from the forks
3. Remove front wheel
4. Remove brake calliper
5. Pre-soak the new foam washers in float oil (or suspension oil)
6. Unscrew the bottom nuts and crush washers
7. Tap the threads (with nuts on, to protect the thread)
8. Drain the old suspension oil into a waste bucket
9. Remove the lower legs
10. Wipe clean, to remove any dirt and dust
11. Using an open spanner, remove the old seals and foam washers
12. Wipe clean again
13. Fit new seals and foam washers (use some oil on the dust seals)
14. Re-fit the lower legs
15. Flip the bike upside down
16. Inject suspension oil into the lower legs via the bottom nut holes, in the correct amounts
17. Tighten the bottom nuts and new crush washers
18. Re-fit the brake calliper
19. Re-fit the front wheel
20. Pump the air back in (55lbs/sq in)
21. Pump the front suspension a few times
22. Voilá

If you do replace the oil, make sure you check the Fox Forks site to get the right amount. FWIW, I would recommend changing it, because it came out dirty.

Anyway, I hope that helps. Good luck.

:-)

Over the last couple of years, I’ve stayed at Waterside House B&B at Hawkshead.

It’s about half a mile south of the village and about two miles from Grizedale visitor centre.

The owners are friendly and have plenty of storage for bikes. Make sure you take your own bike locks though, for peace of mind.

No. They should only drip when they are compressed. Something that happens either when you bite the valve or when its stored in the car and you accidentally put something on it (that’s why it’s useful to lock the valve when it’s in transit).

I had the previous Dakine bladder in my Nomad and had to replace the bite valve after 12 months, because it started to drip and I had to keep locking it. Then the connection started leakingat the bottom of the bladder. So I replaced it with the new Dakine roll top bladder, which is much better. Seems to be much better quality. No drips and no leaks so far…

Thanks for your inputs guys. I’ll update the list asap. Any other comments are welcome.

Hi nsbikescore1, I’m getting better thanks. I even had my first ride today. It was a very short ride, at just two miles…on tarmac. Lol. Wow, really enjoyed it though! Looking forward to getting out proper.

How’s your recovery going?

Tipping Point is good, it covers the 2008 DH World Cup Series.

If you are online, try watching last year’s series of DH races on freecaster – http://uk.freecaster.tv/

Hope that helps.

mightymarmite – Forgive my ignorance, but what do you get from Laser and Magnetic Pulse treatments? Do they fuse the bone and muscle?

How do you know if you need it? I’ve just had a sling on for a few days and am letting the collarbone heal of it’s own accord.

btw – A&E details noted on every marker post at Cannock Chase is a great idea!

Just to balance things a little, the first nurse was genuinely concerned that Glentress is just creating the opportunity for fractures, to people who otherwise would be OK. The x ray nurse was more sanguine. The medic was fine too, she patched me up, gave me some medication and copies of the x rays and advised that I see a consultant asap.

Anyway, thanks for your contributions on A&E locations guys. Much appreciated. I’ll arrange to post up a list, which can be added to/corrected, asap. Not too sure about the A&E location that boxelder is referring to though … ;-)

nsbikescore1 – Yes, our paths did cross. I was at the check-in as they wheeled you in on a trolley. It looked very serious and it was a relief to see you as you departed with “just” a broken collarbone. At least you broke yours on a proper red route. I did mine playing on the table tops in the Glentress Freeride Park. Doh! I hope the laser surgery went well today. How long before you can ride again?

valleydaddy and ratadog – Thanks for the postcode details. I’ll add them to a list. Is there a way of uploading an MS Word doc, with the details, or do I have to cut and paste the details and post them on the forum in a thread? Happy to do that, if it’s the preferred way.

nsbikescore1 – Was your Innerliethen fall somewhere near the top of the red route? What time did you leave Borders after they let you go? (we may have met…).

Anyway, the consultant told me not to drive for three weeks and he’ll have another look at it then. I hope to be on the bike by then (probably just the hybrid at first).

Yes, that’s where we ended up. Bit of a drive passed Galashiels.

Good service.

The first nurse I saw suggested they should close Glentress down. It sounded a bit harsh. But then she went on to tell me I was the fifth mountain biker, with a fracture that she had seen over the weekend.