Clearly that one is not high enough as they’ve had to add that bloody ridiculous stem.

The only one that sticks in my mind as something I just didn’t get on with was an Orange P7 from about ’99/00. Everything about the ride was rubbisherer than the low-/mid-level Kona I was supposedly upgrading from. Luckily, it was stolen within a few months and I stuck with my old Kona for many happy years after.

Right now, I’m grudgingly holding onto a cheap, nasty Charge Plug 0 as my commuter. It was dirt-cheap and does the job, but has all the life of a stoned iguana.

A blue Raleigh Marauder for Xmas ’89, iirc. It lasted a long while, seeing as it was too big when I got it, so the next was a Balance AL150 in about ’95. It was certainly rubbish even by standards back then, but it did everything I wanted a bike to do at the time.

Maybe not the best at any one thing, but the most fun bike I have owned, and still do, is my Evil Sov.

P1020898 by Mike Jones[/url], on Flickr

Depends on what the cranks are, but BB92 is the standard.

Now I have a matching pair

You can finally own a proper fork

Added bonus with Shimano is that the cassette can be re-purposed as a boat anchor when it’s done on the bike.

Seriously though, you can use a Shimano cassette with your existing gears to make it even cheaper, bar the freehub replacement as was pointed out.

As above. Unless the cable has snapped it would most likely be the collar that needs a little tweek.

Top tip: turn bike upside down, press reverb lever and lower saddle, turn bike upright and raise saddle. Small amounts of squish tend to be fixed by this. Make sure you lower it in one motion, though, and do not let it rise whilst still upside down.

I started using Wickens and Soderstrom No.5 at the start of the summer. While it’s still to be tested in sloppier conditions, I’ve been very pleased so far, but . It claims to be filled with science-y stuff, but all I know is that my drivetrain has been clean and quiet since I started using it.

Same as Bob for me, sorry. Has the freehub got the spacer in it? If it was missing it might put more stress on the axle where your’s break.

The internal cables on a Commie Meta V3. Sounds like the frame does double-duty as a piggy bank.
I’d try to sort it, but I also remember what a pain it was to get them in there in the first place.

Haglöfs Amfibie. Ordinary shorts that are also excellent summer riding shorts.

It’s personal preference really (as was the conclusion in the eminently readable flat pedal grouptest in this here magazine). Some people want absolute grip, while others want a bit of movement. I think the grip of my f20s is perfect (I paid nowhere near rrp though). Others might disagree.

I had a few years off from when I was about 20 til I was 25-ish. Just had other stuff to do. Didn’t miss it, didn’t worry I was missing out on something. Floated back to it when I moved, and in trying to explore the area/meet new people I dug out my old bike. Been at it pretty regularly ever since (12yrs); rain or shine, hot or cold.

Probably and shouldn’t do, but, yeah, I’m not sure (from memory I’m pretty sure my Monarch says 420).

It’s the force that’s needed to ‘break’ the lock if you hit something whilst locked out.

Mine is a M/M but it also has an S on it. I think it’s the level of lockout.

As someone already mentioned, which 5.10s are we talking about? Impact and the Danny MaCaskill one are noticeably stiffer than a standard Freerider (the Danny Mac is perhaps slightly less grippy).

For general riding and just quick messing about I use Alpinestars Paragons. They were cheap, but fit well, are comfy, light and have shrugged off a fair number of minor crashes so I’m more than happy. When I feel like I need something more serious I have a pair of POC VPDs mainly because they fit me really well.

Been using Hope floating discs for 4/5yrs now, I think. No issues. They look cool and make tinging sounds after a bit of use. I take that as confirmation of my raditude, meaning the lack of noticeable braking benefits is completely forgiven.

There are a couple of pretty solid rubber pads in the Super, just above the ears. They’re stuck in, but removable. Makes a huge difference taking them out.

Fwiw, the mips version is likely to be worse as the the helmet is just the same with more stuff crammed into it (those rubber pads included).

dragon – Member
Do Orange realise that it’s 2017 and suspension has moved on since the original Proflex designs?

You do realise they’re not remotely the same design, right (though you’re quite right, no one seems to use mac struts for bikes these days apart from the occasional BSO)?

were they teva cranks?

Yep. Would have another pair if I could.

Maybe try the more DJ-oriented shoes from 5.10 (Spitfire) and the likes. I had a pair of Teva ones (not made anymore) that were thinner than Vans Authentics, with better grip and feel. They don’t offer much in the way of any kind of support though.

Another happy CB m17 user here. My first must be about 10yrs old, plenty of use but still going strong. I’ve had lezyne and pro ones for other bikes but have ended up replacing them with another, shinier, m17.

I’ve got the older Super 2R. Like Kraken said, if it looks like a mushroom it’s to do with the shape of your head just as much (I also had a Hex before). I like the fit, it’s a little warm but the pads are good and guide sweat back away from the eyes. Adding the chin bar doesn’t really change the feel of it very dramatically, I just hope it adds a bit more protection (I bought mine mainly cos it fit well and was available at a price that meant it would have been silly not to buy it).

Maybe I’m thinking of another rf chainset, but an isis extractor might do it.

Rock Razors work far better than you expect them to in most situations, even wet. Only real weakness is braking grip on loose ground (wet or dry), which makes them slower overall on some of my local trails. They are very, very fun though.

My experience is based on unfashionably narrow (23.5mm internal) rims though.

EDIT: just saw that Ardent Races (like an Ikon with bigger cornering knobs) come in proper sizes now. The 2.2 version is excellent, but skinny, so I’d love to try one of those too.

The 30 is a budget XC fork with spindly legs, not something you want on a play-bike. The Argyle is the same chassis as the old (oooold) Pike. Bombproof and plenty of clearance for 2.5″. There is no option for anything but 20mm axle though. For what you describe I’d still go for the Argyle and factor in a new wheel/hub over the 30. Or, check the german sites for Rebas with 1 1/8 steerers and qr lowers. Bike-discount had some last week iirc.

Genesis Core is a fun little bike too.

JRA

Works for me within seconds most of the time. There was a period a few weeks ago where it could take a couple of hrs to appear on Strava, but not recently.

Really, really like that. I’d have something similar, with slightly shorter stays, if finances allowed. The best technical climber I’ve had was a Ragley Mmmbop that I put a -2* angleset in (static headangle became 63*, with a 140mm fork, according to a phone app). Could just have done with being a touch longer in reach.

I cable tied my rear brake hose to the outside of the frame cos I didn’t have a bleed kit to hand when I built up my bike. That was 2yrs ago and I still haven’t changed it (I also knew it was to be routed similarly to the rear derailleur cable, which was an absolute pita to fit).

KS rear shocks are generally BSO-level crap. Judging by the bike in the link that’s exactly what it is in this case too.

Butcher, as others have said. I wouldn’t go with a Chunky Monkey if my requirements were square-ish profile and cornering grip. It’s pretty round with very short, and oddly shaped, shoulder nobs. It’s alright on wet rock and roots, but there are plenty of tyres that are at least as good there and better everywhere else (the Butcher for example, or any other Minion-esque tyre).

Yes, they feel completely different. Shimano aren’t quite as easy to get into, and, ime, release unintentionally (sh51 cleats) if you’re really heaving on the bike and pedals. There’s no lateral float compared to Time and Time also feel like they have more angular float because of the increased release angles. Time are better in snow and ice too. In mud they’re about equal nowadays.

It’s not end of the world stuff though. You’d get used to most of it quickly enough.

What you describe is what stealth grannies were made for. No messing around with different cassettes to gain an ever so slightly easier gear, just grab an old granny ring out of the spares box and you’re done.

Pretty much the only time I get caught is when racing, which I only do infrequently and badly.

Latest one from an enduro in November:
14947667_10155250752422788_5784670928681306296_n by Mike Jones[/url], on Flickr

Last summer, racing dual-slalom against Martin Söderström (name-drop! he beat me by 5secs over a 20sec course):
11329989_10153412344974515_5268776548539678598_n by Mike Jones[/url], on Flickr