Ardent Race, in fancy rubber, is far more competent than it looks and arguably a better choice for the rear than a standard Ardent, imo.  I’ve run them well into the winter before, but I guess it depends on your regular trails.

I know they’re deeply unfashionable , but I find Conti MK2s to be the best of that ‘light, fast but grippy-ish’ type of tyre.  I never got on with the shape of old NNs and the new ones weren’t much better either.  The MK2 rolls about as well and has infinitely better cornering grip.

(The above assumes the black-chili MK2s, anything other than that will result in a fiery death)

In that case I’d probably go all-in.  For no other reason than it making finding new wheelsets and selling old ones easier.

Shirley it’s one of those things that makes so little difference that it can’t be something you regret having? Your bike either has boost or it doesn’t. It’s not really something you’d upgrade to just for the sake of it.

Was mentioned a few places online in the last few weeks. Something like £2500. Google and you’ll find it easily.

Edit: feeling generous https://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/exclusive-new-uk-made-full-suspension-switch9er-from-stanton-bikes/amp/

The old I’ll post a reply to this thread that has no real relevance to the topic in a attempt to look clever, belittle someone and completely miss the point. Yay!

I was highlighting a good case of people jumping on the day’s bandwagon while far more suspect issues go unchecked.

Did you read any of this thread or the one from last week, then?  Talking about this doesn’t mean people don’t talk about other, more serious, things too.  Just because this is small in comparison doesn’t mean it can’t be worthwhile too.  I don’t disagree that there are bigger problems, but I don’t see that as a reason for people to ignore this one, as you seem to imply.

*Yawn* The old ‘if you’re not devoting your whole life to the cause you’re a hypocrite’-argument of the lazy.

Holy s##t! I fly the Boeing 737 for a living and own a camelback and a giro helmet/shoes. I am worse than all of you!!!

Clearly the only thing to do is to burn it.

As above, completely different. I never got on with CMs. They were mediocre even at the stuff they should be more suited to, but they were cheap.

Maybe a Butcher or something?

Saw that colour in real life last week and it’s horrible.  Nothing to do with how bright it is or anything, it’s the colours in combination with the chunkiness of the frame and lack of other graphics (or at least more than the tiny ones).  It’s like a big grey turd with a streak of orange running along it.

Have Lifeline Prime as my summer commuter tyres.  Very impressed with them.

Race Evo lever is the same as a tech 3, just without adjustments. No more or less powerful. X2 are very adequate for most things but E4 are just a bit ‘more’.

PF92 on my Commencal (with 24mm spindle) has been as good, if not slightly better, than previous external ones.  There are enough workarounds now that, whilst not ideal, I don’t think any of the standards would really put me off a bike I wanted.

Cold is definitely a factor for me, but it seems that keeping them lubed helps.  Both times it’s happened to me now, in winter, it’s been a while since it was serviced (Spring usually) and it then works fine in similar temps. afterwards.

^What Bigfoot said.  Happened to mine in the cold the other week.  Carefully removed the Debonair can (BANG!) when I got home, relubed everything, and it’s been fine since.

-15 is pretty common here. My Reverb slows down a lot, Brand X a little, GD no difference. Out of people I ride with only Command Posts seem to completely die regularly in the cold.

140 front, 120 rear.  My previous was was 160/150, and that’s not to mention my hardtails.  Depends on the bike, the design, the rider, etc.  Dismissing such as ‘not making sense’ is just a weird view of what ‘making sense’ means.

The thing with too much travel I can sort of agree with, but don’t really care about it enough to  write about it on the internets. I like shorter travel where others ride longer.  Some people like longer where others ride shorter.  We all live happily ever after.

Why the description of condition and spec if the question is just if old, high-end 26″ stuff sells better as a bike or bits? 😜

*yawn* Replace the front springs on your BMW and then come back to us..

The actual service cost, without the pretty obscure suspension part, seems quite reasonable.

The arms industry is morally complex. We need them, absolutely we do, as a country too protect ourselves and other persecuted nations from oppression.  But it like so many professions, I’m glad it’s not me that has to do it.

That’s not the moral discussion that’s taking place here, though.  What’s being discussed is a company that provides military-grade weapons to civilians, and donates money to an extremely morally questionable lobby group (like, attacking victims of violence in the media, implying that those who speak against them should be met with violence, etc, etc) to ensure their ability to keep doing so.

Yeah, hunting rifles I’m almost ok with, but NRA support? Nope.

Also Does all you money/profit go to that “arms” company?
or does it stay with Camelback etc for more research development/wages etc.
I think with out more info it be hard to say!

Not really the point.  Camelbak/Giro/Bell’s value is on the books of the parent company, so whether any of your money actually goes directly to the NRA, or not, is kind of moot.

You need to buy the Tectal Race, really, so everyone can accidentally mispronounce it rectal. It’s the only way.

Standard Tectal pricing looks not to change due to the Spin thing only really replacing the Race model.

I’ve got a pair of Endura ones, which are great, but I also just do stretch chinos or jeans too. Only problem is the crotches tend to wear through pretty quickly, but they’re cheap. About 1 pair a year seems to be average for me. The Enduras are 2 or 3 years old now and only really starting to pill, so maybe worth the extra.

I always got on ‘ok’ with Charge sadels, and the SDG Bel Air original and 2.0, but recently bought a WTB Volt and the difference is pretty amazing. The lowest end model is usually pretty cheap too, and even the mid-level (Pro, I think) is a decent weight.

I’ve got 5yr old Aclima tops that are going strong with no holes (apart from the ones that are supposed to be there) or other problems. Cost a bit, but seem to last well. I’ve got an Endura Baa Baa from when they first came out too. It’s got a couple of holes from crashes, but still works fine, though I prefer the Aclima ones.

Does an Aldi top even contain that much actual merino wool (not saying it doesn’t work anyway)?

Was gonna say Aeffect too. For the simple reason that it’s got a ‘normal’ sized axle, which the more expensive Turbine doesn’t (24mm vs 30mm).

Just wondering about the cranks that you mentioned – are they these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Suntour-RBR604-Triple-Chainset-Black/dp/B004XVPPH0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518678253&sr=8-5&keywords=suntour+152mm+crank

Those rings look riveted onto the arms. Try the XCT Jr chainset instead.

Yes, it’s no problem riding just as far on flats as you would on clipless. Shins? I’ve got just as many marks from spds as flats. The need for extra protection just because of another kind of pedal is overstated and likely comes from people just using crappy pedals and shoes.

If it’s only really you and your bike, and not a gang of mates and their bikes, or family, then I’d say an estate or MPV is overkill. Like some have said, pretty much any little hatchback will take your bike with one or both wheels off. My first car was a 2nd-gen Renault Clio, which would happily take two people and 2 bikes inside. Did runs from around Perth down to Peebles pretty regularly. Personally, I’d put a towbar on the ‘nice to have’ list, with a cheap rack, but still below just a decent service history and some kind of trade-off between reliable and cheap to fix.

4.8” tyres feel the same as 2.4” tyres, right?

Twice as alive.

Essentially they’ve reinvented the spider and anodised it

I knew the MTB CD chainset on my commuter would come back into fashion.

Wickens and Soderstrom no.5 for me too. I never do anything to my drivetrain other than wipe it off and relube it after a ride. It’s stays lubed, it stays shiny(-ish), and takes minimum effort. Muc Off lubes are clearly designed as an excuse to sell you their degreaser and chain-cleaner.

Totally green, not yellow. That’s all I had to add.

Won’t think about YT bikes any more. This is way too silly!

Have you missed all YT marketing ever? Their prerelease hype stuff has always been weird. Look back at all the goat stuff from the original Capra release, or the angry girlfriend stuff for Jeffsy.

It’s almost more terrifying how prolific this guy is than the individual bikes. Seems like so much time and work put into them and for what?

Not vertical like that, but we have these around the train station in town. Works on a gas-strut I think so very little effort needed to raise and lower bike to/from the upper level.

edit: google suggest they’re made by Falco, who, it turns out, also make a variant of the one you posted: http://www.falco.co.uk/products/cycle-parking/compact-cycle-parking/

Should you? Do either of them do something you don’t want them to? It’s only air. Add some, remove some, find a sweet-spot you like.

Fake news! Everyone knows LBS-owners are all millionaires, ripping off customers by overcharging for everything. They’d never need to turn to a life of crime to support themselves.

Do it. Something 2nd hand, cheap, basic but functional (which is, admittedly, sometimes easier said than done with used DJ bikes). I basically did like Chipko there, bought it for pootling about behind my son and now building up on jumps and chasing him round the local pump-track. Translated well onto the regular bike too.

Nothing new to add really, just that it shouldn’t go that slowly even when cold. Mine gets slower in -10 (2-3secs return, greater effort need to push it down), but still remains functional. Maybe it’s the new internals. Mine’s an original 2011 that just gets a service on the couple of occasions it’s failed.