What benefit does the extra step of dumping a bike in someone’s garden give thieves?  I can’t see one, but am sometimes surprised by the misplaced ingenuity of thieves.

An oldie, but a goodie.

2018-07-01 11.58.24 by Mike Jones[/url], on Flickr

How do the Gravity Droppers compare to the Rockshox Reverbs?

It’s going to feel agricultural, but still solid.  The fixed positions I like; it’s always going to be exactly where you expect it to be.  The remote action is lighter too.  I have a GD, a reverb and a Brand X (and have had a couple of cheap ones including an ebay GD-copy, which are nothing like the real thing).  I like the feel of the GD best, but unfortunately the longer stroke of the Brand X makes it the one for the main bike.

e13 have one that seems to be like a cross between a GD and a Command Post.  Early reviews were mediocre, but they seem to have sorted some issues now.

GD.  It can be stripped and fully rebuilt in 5mins with only a couple of different sized allen-keys.  Pretty much every part is available relatively cheaply as a spare, but there are only really 4 cheap, plastic bushes that actually wear out.

Dammit, tried to edit but nothing happened.  Just wanted to add a warning to make sure the bleed tool is fully seated.  If not it’ll vomit out everything and mean you have to start over again.  From what I’ve heard it’s an easier step on stealth models, though.

It might be worth trying a tip I saw on another forum for getting rid of small amounts of sag.  Turn bike upside down, lower reverb whilst upside down being careful not to allow it to extend, put bike right way up and extend reverb again.  No idea why it works, but it did on my older model Reverb (A2, I think) and for quite a few others it seems.

Otherwise, as has been said, the service is quite long but fairly straight forward.  In my case, the final bleed of the spring turned into a pita when the bleed tool decided it had had enough and puked out everything, meaning I had to start over again.  Done it a couple of times now, though, and it’s fine now.

Lots of people are cross dominant I think  (right handed/left footed, or vice versa) There’s a theory that no one is really ever ambidextrous, just dominant for a particular task…

That’s what I heard too. Through years of skiing, kayaking and other stuff I’ve learnt that the only thing my left hand is dominant in is writing.  People would look at me writing and think I’m left-handed, but every other ‘side specific’ task I do with my right.  Cycling, I’m left foot forward, which would make sense if I was predominantly right-handed.

I’ve got a Hardlite Components one.  Some kind of Ukrainian Superstar-type outfit.  It was cheap, works and has done for about a year now.

I bought one for our son for his 1st birthday, but he didn’t start using it until after he turned 2.  In all honesty I think pretty much anything that fits will do the job, but the lighter the better for both them and you. We ended up with a Cube Cubie because it was on sale at the time.

Fox at least list a 26″, 1 1/8 steerer version of the latest 36. Just the kind of thing that’s too niche to be available through the likes of crc, but any lbs with an account with the distributor.

Round here, I’d say they were only getting stronger.  When I bought my V3 I only ever really saw others when I was at bigger events.  Now I see quite a few with V4 and 4.2s, and TRs seem to be becoming popular too.  Mine has a few issues such as the internal routing putting cables too close to the steerer (what I guess Mike was referring to) and the linkage bolts definitely didn’t have any threadlock from the factory, but those are easily sorted for what was a very cheap frame that has lasted well for me.  Never had to contact customer service with them though.

Used the Swedish version many times.  It’s just another German store: cheap, slow comms, but otherwise alright.

^What that lot said.  It’s not a results story, it’s a Rachel story.  Results had already been reported.

Afaik it varies by manufacturer.

Honestly, it looks like you need to decide how much you want a bag and how much you want a lifestyle accessory. Plenty of other bags will do more for quite a bit less, but they won’t be the Trakke and will probably look like any other messenger bag and/or just be a more common brand.

If it’s an actual indentation, rather than the sidewall being bent inwards/outwards over a cm or so, I’d say you’ll not fix it.  Photo might help.

They can cradle my banana anytime.

Depending on the year you might be able to disconnect the spring for the lockout.  Then you can set it wherever you like between open and closed.  You can play with the threshhold then too, have it act as weak platform.  There are old mtbr threads about how they work together and how you might balance the settings.

Realised I could be wrong about the RF being compatible. Old ones were, but it could be a 30mm axle now, which isn’t.

PF92 is pressfit, 92mm wide.  Fortunately that equates to the width of a 73mm BSA shell + BB cups.  The RF BB should be compatibel with the XT cranks anyway.

 I just think as role models with the ability to influence future generations there are much better messages they can send out than, “its all about having a laugh”.

What is it about, then?  It’s cycling ffs.

Started using W&S no.5 last summer and have been really impressed, more so the nastier the conditions.

I wear full mudguards, problem is I take them off when I go to Spain then have to put them back on when I come back to England. Similarly if we get a good month of dry riding in the UK I’m always tempted to take them off only to soon put them back on again. Its a lot of faff.

Any mudguard that takes more than 1min to install on an mtb can gtf.

Isn’t hotlines the distributor for DT?  Either way, spares a plentiful from pretty much every German store.  You might not be able to walk into your LBS for spokes, but you can have them shipped to your door in a couple of days.

Some companies’ ‘lightweight’ discs are often about 1.6mm. Hope are, or have been, for 160mm and smaller.

The new and old versions are very different – basically the same name, but a different tyre.

And yet they manage to make something so outwardly different just as rubbish.

Peak STW right here.

If it goes a bit flat just nibble off an end and use your mini pump to pop it back up.

BITD, and I’m talking 1990-something here, a lad did the monster doubles at the Powder Monkey in Wallsend and his cranks (dunno which side) snapped on landing, the bit that was still attached to the bike went into his calf and he was ambulanced away :/ That is an actual true story.

Same kind of injury happened to my mother-in-law (there’s another story about the crank already having been broken and shoddily welded back together by father-in-law, but the injury was the same).

FWIW I’ve seen one SLX chainset break after about 6yrs of fairly seious abuse.  It was shoe rub that did it in though.  I must admit I’m slightly fearful of mine, which lives on my messing about/jump bike ( they’re 7yrs old and I can’t jump). Not enough to stop me riding them, though.

Why do you think changing the head angle would make it feel like a 29er and that that would make you more confident?  It’s really just a setup and technique issue, but it’s easy to get stuck focusing on unrelated/unnecessary things that will continue to hold you back mentally.

Look further ahead perhaps, more rather than focusing on single (or multiple) loose rocks. See what you could do after losing a little control rather than focusing on the loss of control; are the pieces of the trail you could ‘catch’ yourself on to continue, etc?

Bell Super, TLD A1, Giro Hex, Bluegrass Goldeneye and Scott Stego have all worked for me with various glasses.

What submarined said, except 5 or so years.  For storing the tyres I just stuff them wherever there’s space in our storage.

Not a Durin, but I ran a lighter oil in my Wotan bitd.  Partially to change the feel of the damping, partially to be able to use an oil that didn’t turn to snot in minus temps.  I remember only positive effects.

Magura used to have, maybe still do, a pretty good customer service forum that had threads for old stuff.

Hope have lasted for far longer than any others I’ve had (DMR and Superstar mainly). Probably 3yrs old now and not a hint of play and pristine inside. Obviously you’d expect them to with the price, though.

linky to that ^

Here.

There’s another thread where he gives more detail, but I can’t seem to find it again just now.

Yep, there is a guy on a Swedish forum who did just that ages ago. Says it works fine. Just a little ptfe tape on the bolt at the bottom to make sure it’s sealed. He has a couple of forks like that now.

So buy that one, then?

Mechanics seat cover, rubber mats for riding duties

I always change my shoes for riding/driving and then a hoody to stop you putting mud on the arm rest.

Simple

For the love of God, this.  If I tried half the fannying about in this thread it’d put me off riding most of the time.  If I’m really caked in crap I’ll take off my baggies and just drive home in my bibs, but that’s the extent of it.

Let out air and make sure they compress all the way. If yes, it’s likely just a setup problem or that you didn’t need all the travel.

I drove 3hrs in a blizzard with mostly zero visibility today. The little I did see was that someone had written “Spring?” in the snow at the side of the road. You know it’s messed up when it’s unseasonal in Sweden.

My first ‘proper’-ish mtb, a Kona Lava Dome from 1997. I use it as a commuter. I have had other commuters that were better, nicer, that I’ve sold to keep the Kona, but there is an idiotic sentimental attachment to it and the bloody thing just won’t die.