They’re hero-dirt’s underrated cousin.

My absolute favourite is a Brynje mesh one. Really warm, but wicks as well as any synthetic I’ve had. For less cold days I just have a stack of cheap HHs. I sweat a lot too and still sweat by them.

As above, snowmobile trails are popular here in Scandinavia. XC-ski trails are absolutely off-limits. There are a few smaller trail-centre-ish pplaces that have prepared winter trails (Högbo is near me, but I know I’ve heard mention of others). I’m guessing that the amount of prep involved maybe just isn’t worth it most places in the UK.

They do.
From Bluegrass/Met
“thanks for contacting us. I’m sorry to hear about the crash and for sure the helmet protected you. Bluegrass offers the same crash replacement program of MET.”

B******s. Wonder if that’s a recent thing or if I just spoke to the wrong person.

MET have one and Bluegrass don’t, despite being part of the same company. That’s what I was told when I put a nice dent in my Goldeneyes. My helmet came from a German store if that makes a difference.

BB needs to be moved forwards to keep reach the same for a shorter headtube, and vice-versa. Not by much, though.

RFR is just Cube’s own brand for parts. Is it internally routed or external?

Ooof. I wanted one of those so badly when they first came out.

It’s in foreign (Swedish), but maybe Google translate will do a good enough job to get the gist of it:

Here

if you’re after a GravityDropper, just get a Tmars, surely? they really can’t be any worse.

They really, really are. The TMars I had felt like it was made of randomly assembled, rusty, old Trabant parts. Having owned both, I’d happily pay full rrp for a new GD over a TMars.

I had a brief go of a 29″ 140 at the weekend. My first experience of a slacker 29″ and I’m in love. Despite not quite being used to getting the weight as far forwards as needed, and some epically rubbish conditions, it just felt soo controlled. I’d be really interested to try their ‘XC’ bike for my general kind of riding.

I’ve got a 2011 Reverb that’s still chugging along merrily. Had one full service in that time.

Then of course, there’s my GD Turbo, which is a little older than the Reverb and has only been opened and greased because I got curious to see what it looked like inside a couple of years ago (it was clean).

I’ve had others too, cheaper ones. They’re all gone now due to failures and lack of parts to get them working again.

Depends which bit of winter.

Mixed mud and wet rock/roots: Conti Barons.
Hard-ish packed snow: pretty much anything with bigger volume (Butchers for me just now).
That one week of ice at the end of winter: Schwalbe ISPs, if I can even be bothered.

I’ve put two on different frames. Most extreme was an Mmmbop, which I measure at 63*, unsagged. It became better in every way: an amazing technical climber and a monster downhill.

Quick point you might already be aware of: only newer RS forks have the threaded cap for tokens, but you can retrofit it to older ones.

Otherwise, yeah they should do what you want. They’re easy to fit and remove. You just let out the air and remove the topcap then screw them in or out. I fitted some to an old Revelation and it made a difference. After a few rides I settled on 1 and 1/2 tokens (a hacksaw was involved).

What bob said. My commute is about the same distance, mostly uphill on the way there, downhill back. I just do it in regular clothes with an outer layer appropriate to the weather. If I had a job that required I wear a suit I might think differently.

Is that a qr-wheel wedged in there with just an extra-long qr?

What Dunc said, although I use a rear-mounted Hamax. If you’re really worried about hitting the baby (which I don’t see happening without you or your bike being of weird dimensions) then maybe try a cheaper messenger bag that can be set to sit high up on your back.

Seriously, a bog-standard Thule rear rack takes about 5secs to fit and 20secs to mount and strap down the bike.

That said, get a CX or similar and just ride anything and everything from your front door. That’s what I did the first year or so after our little one appeared.

I’ve had some on my commuter for a few months now and have been really impressed. I’m coming from the beefier end of the commuter-tyre spectrum though.

Also happy with the Super 2r, but not tried any other. Slightly intrigued by that Lazer one that’s ‘3’ in 1.

Funns look like the best option, but it’s still the worst of both worlds. Something like the Mallets for emergencies and a little HTFU, as cliched as that is, is probably best.

I’ve got one of those Raceware Direct mounts to fit the GoPro mount on my Bell Super. It works like it should.

Oooooooh! I like that a lot.

I bought a pair of the Mavics last winter and have been really happy in them. Warm enough for me with some goods socks on and decent enough for walking in, imo.

I had Raceblade XLs over 32mm tyres on my computer/CX. Worked really well.

Almost certainly fixable with a service. It’s like a really faffy fork service if you want to do it yourself. Not impossible by any means, but can get sweary. Otherwise probably around £60-ish (based on my LBS) for a shop to do it

Yes, but also agree with the slight downsides.

andy4d – Member
I read somewhere that a 170mm crank is the same length as a 175mm crank, it’s just the hole that is moved 5mm. Not sure, can anyone confirm this?

Depends on the brand.

I bought some 170s cos they were cheap years ago and now all my bikes are on 170. There’s just something about them that feels like it spins a bit better/more evenly and the extra ground clearance, though it might seem tiny, makes a difference.

edit: I’m 5’9″ with 32″ inseam if that makes any kind of difference.

I switched from Marathon Plus to Wiggle’s own brand Lifeline Prime Armour in the Spring and have been very impressed. [whisper]Not a single puncture so far.[/whisper] Only go up to 25mm, but they’re comfy enough on my commute of rough asphalt, a few cobbles and some gravel track. Grip in the wet is decent enough too so I’ll be keeping them as far into the winter as possible before breaking out the spikes.

Oh, and they’re dirt cheap.

I’ve gone from ESI on both bikes to GE1s on one and ODI TLDs on the other. TLDs are alright for what I use them for, messing about, but I wouldn’t want them on longer rides. The GE1s have been a bit of a revelation for me. They’re slimmer than I’m used to and barely padded, but so incredibly comfortable. Be aware it does take a couple of rides to dial in the angle.

Forget the derny. The paint on that police car is the outrage. If the front of the car is like that I can only imagine what their valve and logos look like.

I’ve found you don’t need to unscrew them as much as it feels. A couple of turns at most, and then it’s the friction from to o-ring you’re feeling. If you keep unscrewing at that point you’re unscrewing the valve core.

I’ve got one from the first batch that’s still going strong. Only on HTs, though. Tried it on a Meta V3 and it was clearly at its limit so I took it off. On the HT it works no bother with a 42t expander.

More comfortable? Not that I’ve noticed (I have mx2s and 4s), but then I’ve never thought any Time pedal was uncomfortable. It’s some extra space to put your foot if you miss clipping in, but nothing more ime.

What they said. Poke at it with a screwdriver until you get some purchase on an edge and then wack away.

Bang for buck has to be Aliums. Bit heavy, but all the good Time-iness and would survive a direct nuclear strike.

Commencal Meta Trail?

sofaboy73 – Member
looking at changing to a minion DHF 2.5 EXO super tacky compound on the front, but they are their non Tubless Ready tyres – anyone got experience of getting these to go up ok with a stans kit on stans rims?

I’ve set up exactly that kind of tyre on various tubeless rims, including Stan’s, without issues.

Wedge a finger between the fork bridge and stanchion and try rocking it again. You’ll feel if it’s the fork or not.