A search online reveals either M8 x 22.2mm

Or from Titus:

Year, Bike, Eye to eye, Stroke, Front spacing, Rear spacing, Tune
2007-2013, El Guapo, 216mm, 63mm, 21.8mm, 21.8, MM3

So if i read this right, I need the cane creek fitting for the spec above ?

Kind of like this one at CRC ? 21.8 at 8mm ?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cane-creek-double-barrel-rear-shock-hardware/rp-prod115546

Well I have a cane creek double barrel coil 216 x 63 !!

The el Guapo has the original fox air shock fitted currently.

My question is what do I need to fit the CCDB to the el G ?

Or can I just use the fittings from the fox air shock ?

Looking to the STW experts for some advice on this…

Does it have to be the inline version ?

Will the 2014 Cane Creek Double Barrel 216×63 version fit ok ?

So in metric the shock should be 22cm x 6.35cm ?

Are the coil versions any better than the air sprung version for reliability?

Cane creek double barrel inline coil ?

Do they not have the best reliability? They do look good, for a shock that is.

Theo d lite, you have mail

From here: https://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/2011%20RockShox%20SPC_Rev%20B.pdf

Apologies,for the formatting.

15 11.4015.099.000
15 11.4015.097.000
15 11.4015.096.000
15 11.4015.095.000
15 11.4015.098.000

Lyrik u-turn Spring assy X-Soft Silver
Lyrik u-turn Spring assy Soft Yellow
Lyrik u-turn Spring assy Med Red (Standard)
Lyrik u-turn Spring assy Firm Blue
Lyrik u-turn Spring assy X-Firm Black

My forks are 2011

According to here: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/PC1ru5Q6vAmJIJfcN3tecH78JMeO9PD-M9ZabHZF4AA/mtime:1488218542/sites/default/files/techdocs/gen.0000000004984_rev_d_front_suspension_fluid_air_coil_spring_charts_2016_0.pdf

Silver x soft
Red soft
Yellow medium
Blue is firm
Black is x firm

So anyone got a blue or black spring they’d like to swap / sell ?

Have rung jtech suspension – no stock for coil uturn lyrik :(

Ok I can confirm I have a blue

Blue is medium right ? Before I get my hopes up

https://www.marosbike.ro/accesorii-furcii/rock-shox-lyrik-u-turn-spring-assy-x-firm-black-c.html

only place I have found but are in Romania.

No paypal and I don’t have a credit card (by choice)

But looks ok – just need to translate the page as my Romanian is a bit rusty;) & hopefully borrow someone’s credit card

Thanks have looked at 26bikes – and no x firm U turn spring, but have put an enquiry to them.

There’s got to be one somewhere :)

(tbh I never really understand how people have so many problems with these older maxles though? I had the shoulder-type maxles for years and never any bother, is it not pretty much the equivalent of stripping a screw head by not fitting the driver right?)

I agree – I’ve. It had an issue for the last two / three years, then the shoulder buckled whilst I was undoing the maxle the same way I always have. I stopped when I saw it, then dremelled the shoulder straight. Which is working now and the shoulder edge is smooth, but I don’t want to be out on the trails and find it’s happened again.

The 20mm maxle I refer to may have not been the issue, it might have been the threads on the forks, or something else – as it has to be too tight to elimate all play in the front wheel – it’s all working, until you want to remove the front wheel. My LBS had done it all up by hand, but couldn’t undo it without the use of a rubber mallet. Don’t know if it’s the maxle or something else.

I cannot remember how old the lyric forks where when I bought them, or how it all looked when I fitted them.

But they’re soooo purdy!!

They are but I may go for the cheaper maxle ultimate, since there are no alternatives :(

Bl@@dy hell – http://www.xcracer.com/shop/viewproduct.php?productid=347

£70 a pop. My eyes are watering.

I’ve dremmeled them once and can keep,doing it, but the most recent second hand RS fork purchases with the 20mm axle, that’s the one the my LBS had a problem with too, not sure if the issue is with the maxle, or the thread on the fork, but you need to tighten up the maxle “tight” to elimate play in the front wheel, to the extent that it is damn hard to undo.

FWIW I’m relatively mechanically sympathetic and don’t over tighten these things.

On my Prophet with the 15mm maxle, it is only the last few punctures where the shoulders have bent, and that’s after 2 years or so, and the forks were 3 years old when I bought them. I’ve had a lot of punctures too, I really should have gone tubeless by now.

£39.98 for the two sounds like a deal :)

I have one, they are great bikes, my first FS it has been faultless, they are an easy bike to recommend.

With a 36″ fork it might be the MX version, as others have said already, which is hard to find.

At £250 with wheels it’s an obvious buy :)

Hi thanks chillidave – yes this is a 26″ wheelset frame

that should read “hoping” not hopping.

Thanks all.

Cable is routed correctly. All other gears work as they should.

Will release the gear cable and re index the gears from scratch.

Thanks for the park tool link, will read that and will post back here after I’ve done it.

Thanks otsdr – what do you mean by regular one ? Is that Shimano or a generic ?

Should have probably stated in the OP that I’d be buying second hand- some of these frames look fabulous but are out my budget (at the moment)

Kayak23 – those Production privees look fabulous.

Damnit – forgot wheel size – 26″

Not sure what chain tensioning is ? Haven’t got it on my Prophet.

Have just googled it and reckon no.

Cant believe I am posting this on a mtb forum…. but we’ve just replaced our second Dyson ball model – whatever’s it was, with a Shark liftaway, only had it a few months, but it is superb – much better than the Dysons we’ve had, IIRC its 199 from Argos, John Lewis, wont be going back to Dyson for quite some time.

Just re-read this and don’t want to come acrosss as a Dyson hater, they were really good & innovative quite a few years ago, but prices keep going up, and there are (much) better models from other manufacturers around now.

Powdercoat will add a fair bit of weight (in proportion to the very light frame). If it’s painted already, don’t let anyone media-blast it in preparation unless you really trust them – get it dipped.

Am I better off getting it re-anodised ?

My local finishers are very good – have used them before, but they would sand blast, etch prime, powder ooat the frame.

Didn’t think it would add that much weight ?

Thanks guys

Reason for asking about forks is there aren’t any black rockshox reba in 100mm travel for sale

How can I tell if the frame is a v1 or v2 ?

There’s a few on eBay and a few who’s as well

A few who’s as well ? On STW ?

Hi ade9933

Do you still have the frame ?

Could be interested. E-mail profile.

Thanks Akira

Will measure width tonight – as I’ve no idea if it’s 68 or 73, at least now I know it’s just the standard thread

Thanks

Should be

•S.H.I.S. (Standardized Headset Identification System): ZS44/28,6 | EC49/40
•Semi-integrated (frame bore 44mm) top
•External cup (frame bore 49,6mm) bottom

Thanks sq225917 :)

Hi STW gurus

Looking to get my last batch of parts – what type of front mech do I need for the c456?

Is is a top clamp ?

Thanks

Thanks Rhid, reckon that this is what I’ll go with – sounds like a good option

The double, or the triple? Unless you need the 22t I’d go higher myself if you mean double. I liked 28/42 on 2×10. If you’re riding on the road a 32-11 is quite limiting. I found even a 36-11 a bit of a pain. Not that you’d spin out constantly, but you’ll spend a lot of time in the 11t sprocket, and anything slightly downhill will have your cadence up.

Ignore that if you mean a triple!

njee20; I was referring to the Triple option, I’d really like the 2×1 option, which I would get if I wasn’t using the bike on the road. The 3×10 option is a good option as I know it’ll be ok for the road, and as someone else pointed out I can if things change, remove the large ring and fit a bashplate.

I ran a standard Shimano 22/32 double with a 11-34 (9sp) cassette on my Ht which I used for road commuting duties for a while but eventually swapped it for a 10sp 22/32/44 11-36 and find the higher gears on the triple a lot better for the road. Off road I only really use the mid and occasionally the granny though. Thats just my preference.

Thanks Rhid, reckon that this is what I’ll go with – sounds like a good option.

No, it’s entirely personal. Shimano think 24/32/42 is the best, as you say, but you can use the more traditional 22/32/44 equally.
Personally I’d say that a double will suffice for 99.99% of people – unless you’re road racing or wanting to sprint down Tarmac hills then a 39-11 top gear will be fine, and 26-36 is a very low gear. You may be in that 0.01% though…

Thanks for that and nope I’m not in that exclusive 0.01%, probably not even on the top 50% :)

My only concern is running out of ‘gear’ when on the road, as I do use the third front large ring and wondered if a 2×10 would provide a comparable gearing.

I’m not a roadie by any means though – only do it to get to the parks/trails – much prefer Mtb.

I am afraid it’s utterly personal, you have your last bike for reference and you know what you use it for, the only real reason many people have gone 2xN or 1Xn on MTBs is that the larger rings were pretty redundant for their use, but that doesn’t apply to everyone… Some people will want the full 17~104 gear inches that a triple offers.

If you feel you might need it, you can still buy a 3×10 drivetrain, and should you later decide 2 or even 1×10 would actually suit you better, you can remove/replace chainrings and front mechs, just because you fitted it doesn’t mean it has to stay…

Thanks for that coookeaa, reckon that’s what I’ll go for a 3×10 and see how it goes.

Is there an ideal “do it all” gearing combo for 3x gears ? i.e. 42,32,24 etc ?

Before I go nuts on CRC – could I just confirm here with the STW experts that I’m getting the right Hope bottom cup for a c456 frame for tapered steered forks.

This is the current bottom hope pick & mix headset on the frame :

Item Name: Hope Pick n Mix Headset Bottom Cup
Product Code: XXS8350
Item ID: 186006
Item Description:
Item Style: Type: D STEPDOWN TRAD 49.57 L/S

Do I need the F bottom cup to replace this or another integrated bottom cup – which I can’t see TBH ?

Just want to check before I go on a bike bits shopping spree !

Thanks

For hope and a tapered steerer I am pretty sure you want the number 2 top cup and F bottom. Check the dimensions here: http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/HOPE-HEADSET-FITTING-CHART.pdf
Wouldn’t mind getting a works slackset for mine but running a tapered carbon steerer which has a long taper section on a 16″ frame with the short head tube probably makes it a difficult one sort.

Thanks andyl, reckon I’ll get these today as they are reduced at CRC and TBH not really sure I get what the works components headset will do over the Hope version.

80 is probably not much more than a Hope one I’d imagine, call them & tell them which frame & they will take your money

Sigh, isn’t that the truth, but what does the works 1,1.5,2 degree headset do ? I’ve looked round their site and cannot fathom what the difference is ?

I understand that it slackens the head angle – does that quicken the steering ?