theotherjonv- cool let me know chap.
Yep university is probably a good idea indeed, i need to identify specifically the presence of Candida as I have been ill with intestonal overgrowth (lovely) and need to know if the mould here has been causing it or not.
Just for peace of mind really and to know whether clean-ups need to be done.

ahem… as in mould found in damp buildings… 😀
come on, surely someone on here is a mould specialist?

Also i dont need a test to prove the presence of mould, i need to know the types present.

Also massively impressed with Loco servicing, its like your their only customer- they really take the time to keep you informed and its such a quick turn-around.
Top bloke, top service and cheaper than elsewhere!

dunno about you but i get proper annoyed when joggers are on the cycle track…..

Richwales: yep had a week off and was a lot better nearer the end of the week. Oddly eating lots of fresh biotic yoghurt allieviates digestive issues, not sure how relevant that is.
Been tested for a variety of water related issues so prob not that.

its interesting though that the most common symptoms for solvent inhalation are respiritory, which i don’t have?

spooky, there is some ventiliation and i almost always use the red tube but i still get loads up in my face.

1) chainline should be ‘straight’ ie. chain comes off the front chainring and the cog nice and even, its usually easy to see from just looking but look closely how it comes off the rings. Rule of thumb is have an equal number of spacers wither side of the cog and go from there.

2) sliding drop-outs should be equal distance from the frame, check to make sure the wheel itself is again sitting straight and not close to rubbing anywhere on the frame. When you are sure, do it up nice and tight.

3)Chain tension should be nice and tight but not so tight then when you back pedal (with your hand) you can feel resistance at points in the rotation. I forget the exact method but if you squeeze top and bottom sections of the chain together there should be half inch of movement>>>>>
look AT PARK TOOL

yeah agreed i do hate the stuff but maintaining a fleet of bikes requires a fair bit, some days 2-3cans is not unusual.

The water at work is tested regularly and i havent changed my diet so im trying to figure out whats causing the problems. I felt a lot better for a week off but am now declining again. uber lame!

nothing bike related for me, although the car stereo that you can actualy control the volume on is a very welcome treat! Rumour has it my bro has aquired a rab jacket too but only time will tell.
Built a bike for the missus, with custom flip paintjob…mmm
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More pics HERE if you’re bored.

Merry Christmas anywho!

ygm renegade

Last bump

😀

keep that coating on, best lube you can get! when it rubs/dries off start lubing.

http://imageshack.us/%5B/url%5D

id be very surprised if it was too wide

Yeah mech should be ok; being a ‘dumb’ component. May have issues with chain length though if you run it tight already?

Use em a lot, nice range of sizes and good quality. Keep ur receipt though ul need it if you ever need to return.

Sambob; assuming you are just keeping the lowest 2 gears at the front, all you need to do is find the two small limit screws, usually on the upper exposed face of the mech. Simply screw in the one marked “H” until you can no longer shift into the third ring. Use a nice sharp screwdriver as the screws are reAlly easy to round.
If it rubs on the bash, if yiu have one, try raising the whole mech although you will then jave to adjust both limitsand the cable.
Good luck, post a pic if still stuck

halfords thin rolls of velcro cut to size works lovely, ‘muffy’ side down obv. only a fiver too

if it is in stock though it comes quickly

Lovely, good job.

gona stick with the deore then 😀 cheers

thanks for the replies, interestingly it developed the problem after the new tyre was fitted so possibly not seated properly.
I shall pop back and see. cheers all 😀

you dont need special tools to fit/remove just a socket set.
To remove simply push a suitable sized socket from the inside(fram side) and tap it firmly on the ground till they pop out. If its stubborn try heating the cup with a hair dryer.

To install push the new bearings in a little bit by hand then either use another socket or even better the old bearings to push the new bearings back in. A rubber mallet helps. You can also freeze the bearings before hand if its a tight fit.
!Remember! to grease the outer edge of the bearings before sliding them in as this will aid fitting/removal.

the bearings are a different size to shimanos due to the lack of shim ie the internal diameter is smaller.

no chance of getting cheap bearings, not even from a fitters etc.

try >>BETD<<, they fit them free of charge too.

yeah thats actually happended to me with a hope bb, completely my fault…fail on spacers/fitting/tightening up caused it to unwind as i pedalled…uber lame. Up nice and tight next time 😀

Hmm not sure a fixed stand is a good idea, even at work i end up moving my park stand around to sweep etc. I would LOVE a really stable stand though! and one with a tray (magnetic?) would be dead helpful.

yup i bought one. Its great, just over a kilo for 21″ rode the brecon beast and ride most days, im pretty heavy and ride rough but no complaints yet!
got the 3k weave in ‘clear’ ie black finish looks great. getting a headset was interesting but your lbs will be able to size you up.
If you would like pics etc i can do some tommorow.
Go for it you will be pleased, a guy who pops in the shop occasionally bought a frame, forks and bars from the same guy and is dead pleased.

haha true true… ah well cheers for the help as always folks. good eve…

haha….ahem. May have wasted a tenner then, glad i kept the spares!
Front and rear would appear to have them as standard then 😀
cheers

Cheers for. The votes. Sintered superstar by the sound of it.
Firestarter, any tips? Pretty sure mine are as they should be but very open to advice.

sweet, thanks

I’m proud to work for my lbs, although small we always do a bloddy good job, charge way less than anywhere nearby (including a to-be-left-nameless large shop where prices are high and customer service is low…why go there!!!) and have most jobs done the same day.
We are also bribed by cake, and will do pretty much anything to keep the customer happy. I have not yet, since working there had a customer who wasnt shocked by our speed/cheapness/quality.

I do however understand what you mean by bad attitude, we have a rule: if you come in and are polite, upfront and just generally pleasant we will do near enough anything for you. If you come in aggressively, no please and thank you’s, demanding this and that you may be charged more 🙂

Sorry but if you are an ass to people working really hard for you, on near minimum wage, then its a real shame.

interesting, id post up a pic if you can.
Have you tried re-centering the calliper onto the mount, ie by undo-ing the two bolts ‘on top’ (facing you) this will allow the calliper body to slide horizontally on the top of the mount posts and you can move it out the way?
Quick tip, undo both bolts, squeeze brake, do up bolts while holding brake.

M:part sport or low stack, really cheap too…have a google

sorry is the rotor rubbing against the mount?
is it a floating rotor?

second TheBrick, experience is gold dust.

Yeah 110 was what I meant, cool il try that thanks.

yeah im interested in the ‘top out clunk’ ideas, mine and a few customers have said of this issue…interesting.

yep balls here too, the outer rubber seal is just appalling.