I quite liked my 55rc3ti(2013) but found that the only REAL way to set up the compression damping to how i liked was a heavier oil. Adding air in the bottom chamber only made them sticky was best left empty. I went back to bos after those and was happy again. The high and low speed damping works great and is perfect to fine tune.
I ride a 2014 enduro sworks at the mo with Ccdba and 650b pikes(also second set of pikes) and i still think the bos are better built, better damping and easier to fine tune.
Another thing to consider is that the nomad is 67 deg ha with 36s, a pike is shorter(if i remember correctly) and will Steepen your head angle.
What about xfusion vengeance? Theres a few around second hand and they’re similar in design to the 36. I haven’t owned them but have ridden them and they’re pretty good.
Also if you’re keeping a coil out back then i highly recommend a push link. The original link is designed for an air shock and the push one changes the leverage ratio to suit a coil. Best mod i made to my nomad.

I have a spare set of bos deville 170’s which i used on my nomad carbon. They have only had about 12 hours riding on them max. The 170 only come with a tapered steerer and weigh 2000gs!
By far the best enduro orientated fork i have used, these are my second set.
I’ve had most forks on the market, including new pikes, 36, 55rc3ti to name a few and the bos, in my opinion are miles above the rest in terms of build quality and performance. Never had any issues with bos and my first pair i rode constantly for over a year.
600 pounds if you’re interested.

2014 s works enduro large (26)27.5
Bos deville 170 a~c 555mm
Crossmax enduro wts 650b
2.2 rear tyre and 2.4 front
Bb height 355mm (unsagged)
Wheelbase 1850mm
Reach 457
Stack 585
Head angle 65deg
Chainstay 419mm

Actually found the pikes better than my 55 rc3 ti.
Not as good as bos deville 170 though but close.

The climb/trail/decend (or whatever they’re called) settings work very well. The climb setting works that well its only need on road, maybe long/smooth fireroads. The middle setting seems to be sufficient to use in most climbs whilst still providing some compliance over the terrain.
My friend runs his in this all the time, up/down… whatever.
The open setting is where I like to leave them so I don’t forget to adjust before decending.
Really smooth in this setting.
The differences between the three are very noticeable.

Pike rct3 has 13 clicks of low speed compression via a small dial above the charger pedal assist dial, which has three settings. .. climb/trail/open.
Rebound has 19 clicks and is located at the bottom of the right leg.
Up to 4 volume spacers can be added to left leg. Mine came supplied with two.

To add.
The bos also clear 650b fine on full compression.

Also, regarding pikes giving up their travel, a friend of mine runs his in the middle compression setting as he feels they are ‘too’ open in the open/decend setting. …

Thats very interesting waldo1 ! I’ve heard that the pike actually ramps up more making it better for hard hitting? (not disagreeing, just curious )
? this is what I read also before purchasing, however, it has not been my experience. They do fly through their entire travel easily but you don’t notice it harshly. In this sense they’re similar to my 55 rc3 ti but with more progression (and better sensitivity believe it or not! ).
I’ve experimented with the volume spacers and am currently running one in there. The added progression that they give is understandably focused at the end of the stroke but can also give a slight feeling of a lesser travel fork even though we know they have no bearing on travel.
With the bos you are not governed by these volume spacers and the high and low speed compression adjusters offer a wider range of adjustability.
Stiffness of these pair vs a 36 isn’t the same. The 36 is a fair bit stiffer bit you won’t notice it whilst riding. In fact the sightly more flex of these forks is actually a benefit as they will track the ground better and won’t be pushed off line as much with a deflection.
I’ve also read some reliability issues with the bos which I still can’t quite get my head round because I hammered my first set for a long time without a hitch. Roger Estrader told me they were one of the first set of 170s brought in and my second set are only a couple of months old…. no probs with either.
I put my bos up for sale a couple of weeks ago and was going to stick with the pikes mainly due to the lighter weight for trail riding and the logistics of dropping them at local Loco for servicing but am still in two minds which ones to keep. (The bos are mint with only slight cable rub at the top of the Crown £690).
It’s a tricky one,
The bos are better quality, 10mm more travel and better on the gravity orientated limit but the pikes are lighter, have the compression lockout and feel slightly better suited to trail riding.
Either one you decide to go for you won’t be making a bad choice, they’re both great fun.

Both are good but the bos is great. I’ve got both, deville170 and pike 650b solo air.
The pike feels very light , small bump sensitivity is remarkable but they do fly through their travel often and have a ‘toy-ish’ feel to them.
Brilliant fork for the money.
The bos is another level in terms of damping and adjustability. I would say they’re much more controlled when on the limit.
Both are close in terms of stiffness, slight edge to the heavier bos (1860 to 2000).
This is my second set of bos deville and I’ve never had any reliability issues whatsoever. Too early to tell yet on the pike.

I think the pike is a better light weight trail fork but the deville a better harder hitting fork.

Recently bought some flat soled vxi and they’re really hard and not particularly grippy. What I can gather is that they’re the earlier version and the newer vxi has a much softer, grippier sole.
Earlier ones have meshing the toe, where as the latest version has a less permeable covering.

enduroFinished this, this weekend.
Enduro s works 650b

Caustic soda is the one. Be blumming careful though. Firstly, it’s seriously dangerous. The fumes which it gives off are intense and if it spashes on your skin it will burn. Secondly, it actually eats away at the aluminium and too long of an exposure to the item will dissolve it, especially a particularly soft aluminium.
It does work well if done right.

I’ve found ust Queens to be very good. They weigh a bit more than the hd but the sidewall is much tougher.
My hands dampf have been flimsy and squirmy. I’ve had split sidewalls and have torn knobs from the carcass.

My nevegals were great. 2.35 dual Compound ust.
I find them solid and predictable.

What happened to it exactly?

I’ve got some xx1 chainset with 32t ring and gxp bb for sale. No chainguide needed.
150.

If you’re keeping it in 140 mode I’d put 650b pikes and wheels.
Hd is a great bike.
I’ve had three now in various guises.
Pikes can be found at very competitive prices
(Circa 600 notes) hard to ignore the weight and performance per buck.

I’ve got a near new mojo hd with ccdba for sale in the adds at the mo.
1790 with works -1 headset.

+1 for the ccdb. I had one on mine a few years ago. it was great fun, a bit weighty but worked well.

Oh, also, how easy is it to open the handles? The closing/locking mechanism usually operate on a cam system. If it’s very easy to turn the handle then the cams on the sash can be rotated via an Allen key in order for them to pull the sash further into the frame when closing.

Like mentioned above it’s likely to be the hinges.
My best mate owns a window firm, who manufacture, install and repair.
It’s common for them to go even on new windows.
With the window closed, see if you can push the back of the window towards the outside and take a look at the gap.
Then open the window fully and close it pulling quite abruptly at the end.
Take a look and see if the gap has changed at all.
The gaskets around the frame may not be able to be changed if they are bonded. This is more likely on later windows. If not, a upvc window manufacturer ‘should’ have some in stock.

Wouldn’t even bother with whites at the moment with bpw being the other option.
Afan bike park is pointless I reckon.

I did it last year and am doing it again tomorrow.
I’ve had a chest infection/man flu style crap for two weeks so I’m hoping I’ll be ok.
Leaving Watford at 5:30!
Erghhh.

James woods…..
Still haven’t seen breaking bad yet.

I’ve got a large 2013 mojo hd in vit p with ctd factory kashima, works -1 headset and downtube gaurd.
Literally has had 3 hours use and is in prefect condition.
£1950 posted.

Mboy, I think if you find a set of the ones (ect version) for a good price you’ll love them.
Most manufactures are making some great brakes at the mo. The power and weight of t1’s is hard to resist.

I’ve got some 2013 25th anniversary t1’s in Bronze with all the adjusters, fcs, lever reach and caliper caps etc in red.
They have the enhanced caliper technology and have been used only twice.
Very rare brakes.
Retail at £500. I’ll let them go for £280.

I’ve owned s**t loads of brakes from various manufacturers.
A set of t1’s will be much lighter than xt or xtr trails and much more powerful, however, a bit pricier than xt’s and lever positioning is a bit more difficult to get right.
Running in a set of pads on all brakes is important but seems to be more pertinent with formulas.
I’ve taken my ro’s off my enduro bike and am using 25th anniversary t1’s which are lighter and have a sharper feel.
Imo shimano do have the best feeling lever shape of all brakes and xt’s are great value if slightly heavy.

I ran a -1.5 with the marz which was too slack for most trails. With the deville I used a straight ec headset. I was going to slack it out maybe -1 which would have been about right for me but sold the nomad.
The nomad has a relativity long cs which also extends slightly under compression so going too slack makes it feel like it doesn’t want to turn.

The best upgrade i made to my nomad c was a push link and pushed rc4.
Wanted to try the link with other shocks but it never happened.
With the standard link I tried ctd trail ad, rocco, and ccdb.
With the link it was a totally different feel.
I originally had 55rc3 ti’s on the bike but fairly soon went a bought another pair of deville 170 s.
Awesome.

The plastic ones are guff aren’t they. .
Careful with the metal ones, my lbs destroyed my nipples on my last set.

How was les arcs biggins? The videos were pretty good. Good weather too by the looks of it.
Any joy with your shock?

Over tightening spokes on the sx can cause failure. The cast spokes can snap.
I snapped a fair few on my last pair. Seizing of the nipples can occur also, especially after cleaning with certain products.
Bearings wise, I had a few issues with keeping them right. A lbs to us changed them, saying they were gone and the were never correct, even after 4 attempts.
I’ve got the later sx now like you and they’re going well. Bearings are running well – not too tight and not too lose. ..juuust right.
Few dings on the rims though and the tubeless valves deteriorate over time. Spokes on the rear are pretty loose and I can’t see them lasting much longer.
Mp3 time soon I reckon.

Gutted about the cleverly and buckland results. I box with them both, they’re both top guys and trained hard for these fights. It was always going to be a challenge for them both as these were their toughest opponents yet.
Kovalev came in to st.joesephs boxing gym in Newport on Wednesday for s session.
The guy hits hard.

I’d did this last year and am doing it next month. I stayed with my buddy in Watford so didn’t travel back until the next day. Taking the bike from Cardiff on the train was great. No issues. I think some can have limited spaces but call and check first.
Out of Brighton on the train was ok but no dedicated bike compartment.
I’m glad I won’t be travelling straight home after the event. It’s pretty exhausting

Another thing. .. what bike are you mostly trying it on?
And forget American bunny hops…. they’re shizer.
Front the rear is much more controlled, stable, effective etc and you can go much higher.

It’s arms AND legs.
Focusing on one part more than the other and you won’t be fluid, which is what’s needed for a nice controlled jump.
However, practising a manual first will get you comfortable with the first part of the process.
Once you’re there you need to un-weight the rear. Imagine jumping off the pedals but not actually letting your feet leave them. ..if that makes sense. Like lifting your knees.
You should see the rear end lifting and your hands and arms automatically pushing forward.

Definitely Looks like my missis, or cheezpleez’s mother in law.
Maybe they’re one and the same?

Dan did you let all the air out of the shocks to see if there was any contact?
Looks awesome.

If you’re getting pedal strikes and not getting any air off lips and jumps try increasing rear shock pressure and decreasing rebound damping. Should help.

Oh, be prepared to fly uncontrollably into oblivion. ….

http://app.strava.com/activities/22784341