+1 for tea tree oil – this stuff works wonders after applying for a few days:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Australian-Bodycare-Hand-Foot-Cream/dp/B0057VWPDC

I don’t own this, but am on the verge of buying it after researching the exact same thing only last week!

I’m fairly sure I read lots of positive reviews on Amazon (possibly on the US site), but you can find it on Ebay too:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261277166627?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I’ve had the Zephyr HxM for about 18 months, and used it without any issues with several different Android phones.

It’s been pretty much flawless, and far better than the Garmin I owned before.

It doesn’t loose connectivity/readings even with poor contact, and the charger contact system it uses (giant press-studs) seem to make it pretty indestructible – I’ve ran/biked in some proper nasty conditions and it still goes on.

I always carry a CO2 inflater for this reason. A couple of hints:

Locate the valve at 12 o’clock when pumping up to stop the sealant squirting out.

If the bead is still seated, then a hand-pump might work (try to pump the tyre up before it gets too bad).

If not, CO2 will get you back up and running, but will definitely set off the sealant, so change it when you get home.

Alternatively, fit a tube if it’s a bad flat or sidewall gash to get you home. This is a last resort, and messy, but sometimes is the only way.

For what it’s worth I’ve had fewer than 5 flats in the last 3 years of running tubeless. The extra faff when you get problems is more than made up by the lack of punctures.

Buy a CO2 inflater that uses non-threaded cartridges – they are marginally cheaper to buy.

The Push2TV is the best I’ve used (used the Samsung adaptor too), but it is still not 100% reliable. Mostly random disconnects and artifacting. Using various phones: Galaxy S3, an S4 and the new Nexus.

To be fair though, with each firmware update it does get better, so hopefully they will one day have ironed out all the bugs.

Just be aware it is still fairly cutting-edge technology, and can’t fully be relied on.

Cut a slot in the bolt (and remains of allen key) using a Dremel cutting wheel, then use a slotted screwdriver to drive it out? Or a slotted bit on a breaker bar?

Can you drill in a tiny (mm) drill bit into the remains of the allen key, wait for it to get stuck then try reversing the drill, or simply pulling out the snapped bit?

Had a HP wireless inkjet for 7 years, used daily and it still works like new. Really has been one of my most reliable purchases.

Also got a Samsung wireless colour laser printer, about a year old, this has also been flawless and a lot cheaper to run than the HP inkjet.

I would recommend looking at the ‘business’ range of printers, as while more expensive up front, they are generally cheaper on consumables (ink/toner) – so work out cheaper in the long run.

+1 for Synology. Used Buffalo & WD at home, as well as much more expensive Dell NAS servers at work.

Synology models just work. Rock solid, fast performance, manageable, and they continue to update and support the products.

I’ve had two Buffalo NAS servers fail on me – the support was terrible, and their firmware updates have a habit of bricking the devices. So avoid them, in my opinion.

I’d say Synology or QNAP if you don’t want to end up buying again in the future. I’ve bought cheap before and regretted it – you do get a better product for your money with NAS devices.

Alpine Elements have been really good every time I’ve been with them. Great staff and good accommodation.

I’ve tried lots of things, with varying success. One that works pretty well is the conductive thread you can get on Ebay. Sew a load of this into the finger of the glove (to get electrical contact between your finger and the screen) and it works well.

The capacitive stickers work well too, but wear away, especially in the wet. Tinfoil also works (nice and cheap), but ends up scratching your screen – be warned.

Alternatively you can buy gloves with ‘phone friendly’ fabric built in.

Enjoy – it’s a top mix 🙂

If it’s the one I linked on Soundcloud, you can download the MP3 directly from there.

This one?

https://soundcloud.com/lanparty/sasha-never-say-never-mixmag

I’ve had a cheap mains adaptor for a hard disk literally explode in the socket. Left nothing but the metal pins sticking out of the socket. Scared the crap out of me.

However, I have a Magicshine charger and 2 cheap CREE light chargers that I’ve used for 2 years without issue.

I think it can happen to any of them – branded or otherwise, but there’s slightly less quality control on the cheap stuff. Best to take precautions – charge in a fireproof bag or a metal box.

I’ve had good results with the Bosch blue Multi-Construction bits.

Not managed to kill any of them yet, and used them on all kinds of material – including stone.

Get ’em on Amazon or in Screwfix.

The Android Viewranger app has a feature called ‘Buddy Beacon’ that allows you to do this. It also gives you OS maps so is also pretty useful while out riding.

It should be the same process. What happens when you right-click it?

Are you running the browser in ‘desktop’ mode or ‘metro’ mode?

+1 Check for the latest firmware and install any updates available.

I think I’ve seen that ‘messaging has stopped’ on a Sony Android phone before, I believe it was a corrupt text database causing it. Factory resetting your phone will fix it, but will also wipe everything on it.

As others have said, installing a new SMS app, such as Textra or Go SMS may also get round the problem.

I’ve used it for all kinds of DIY bodges – it’s great stuff, but as others mention it has a limited shelf life so buy it as you need it.

I think B&Q are now stocking it on a trial basis if you need it quickly.

The window rubber of my car driver’s door is now almost entirely made of Sugru and that’s lasted several years in all kinds of weather.

I’m not sure how it would fare spread thinly on a chainstay though. Apply it thick would be my advice. You might be better off with something like Plastidip.

Works for me…

Alternatively if you’re feeling adventurous, and it’s just the screen, £100 will buy you a new screen and digitiser for the N4.

Youtube will guide you through the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZDAIgwbXk4

If you stake out some auctions they can be had for much less than £100 too.

If this all sounds like too much hard work, the Huawei G300 is a good Android phone for about £100, or the China-brand THL W100 if you can stretch to £139.

W1zard – They have ruined the Leighon Descent with hardcore So so annoyed!

Really?! Why would they do that? They better not go near Sharpitor or there’ll be trouble 🙂

This route will cover all the best bits!

http://www.mbr.co.uk/routes/dartmoor-devon-killer-loop/

Ridden variations of it many times, still keep going back to it 🙂

That’s an amazing story.

How do you even ‘drive’ a horse through those tiny restaurant doors?

I ended up removing one of the spacer rings. I just wanted to get out and ride – you know how it is…

I haven’t died yet, but I’m also not particularly trusting of it either!

+1 Bosch.

Ours has taken a beating over the last few years and is still going strong. It’ll never beat a petrol version but it’s fine for trimming hedges.

+1 for using the worms.

Once you’ve done a couple of repairs you can do these trail-side in about 5 minutes and be on your way.

I’ve got repairs several years old on my tyres that are still holding out – I think the natural flex they have makes them a good permanent repair.

I’ve got both a Smartcafe and an Aeropress, and it’s got to be the Aeropress every time.

The Smartcafe is good, but it can’t match the quality of coffee the Aeropress kicks out. Plus the Aeropress is bombproof if you bash it about while camping.

Casemate Tough.

Dropped mine a million times and it’s survived to tell the tale – has a rubber inner and a hard outer so has a bit more shock protection than most.

Have you checked that there is nothing at all on the axle stopping you from pushing it in further?

Yep, nothing unusual I can see – it’s smooth and there’s nothing sticking out on the chainring side.

You need to try another driveside crank in the otherwise unaltered setup, so you can discount there being a fault with that part.

I think I will take it to a different shop, and get them to try a new axle to see if it makes any difference. I am also very aware my new crank might get eaten by something wrong with the rest of the setup 🙁

Can’t see from your pics, but it is an MTB BB that you have, isn’t it? Road BB cups look similar, but they’re wider. Could be the cause of your problem.

Good call, but it definitely says ‘Mountain’ on it. Maybe it’s converted to a road one overnight when I left it?! Bloody thing.

I’ve admitted defeat and removed one of the drive-side spacers.

I can only assume the shop that faced and fitted the BB originally were forced to bodge it somehow (maybe breaking off the safety pin on the stopper plate to get the crank to fit). Like me they probably couldn’t work out why a 68mm BB needs only two spacers instead of three – it’s a new one on me!

Thanks for all the suggestions – maybe one day I will know why this BB is fatter than most 🙂

Is the inner face of the DS hard up against the BB outer plastic seal?

How about inserting the DS crank into the NDS and see if it goes all the way through?
Its not jamming on a chainring or something is it?

Good idea – tried pushing it through the opposite side, but it’s still not through as much as it should.

Has the bearing dust cover come off when you removed the cranks and now wont go back in properly?

Tried taking the cups out and wacking the bearing seals with a rummer mallet. They moved a bit, but not much – they certainly didn’t look proud. Still didn’t fit when I tried them back on the bike though 🙁

It’s ok, the Shimano police wont come and get if you take out a spacer

This was what I was tempted to do – although I can’t figure out why it used to work – unless the last shop to fit it bodged it?! I was concerned the Shimano police might get me though :p

that crank doesn’t look like it has the hole in for the safety pin to engage with?

It does have the hole, it’s hidden at the bottom in the picture 🙂

have you changed the bearings in the cups at all – and i dont mean between chainset i just mean ever

I don’t think the bearings are really serviceable in these ones are they? The BB itself is less than a year old, and still spinning well.

Check that your BB is definetly a 68mm??
Wouldn’t have though you you need to take any spacers out if its a 68mm as shimano is 2 drivside and 1 non drive side (I have that on many bikes). Sram is different though.

Does the end cap screw in at all?
It is definitely a 68mm – I checked just in case. It’s always had two spacers on the drive side, something’s definitely changed. I’m happy to ditch one spacer if need be, I’m just a bit concerned it worked this long with two spacers!

The end cap screws in all the way – to the point it is flush with the crank.

Stopper plate on the wrong way round?

Good call, but definitely the right way – the ‘open’ side is facing outwards.

take one of them drive side spacers out. Prolly the reason it fell off in the first place.

According to the manual, a 68mm BB with a band-derailleur needs two on the drive-side:

http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/SLX/SI_6PZFA_002/SI-6PZFA-002-En_v1_m56577569830647029.pdf

I’m fairly sure this has always been the case?

So you’ve just replaced the none driveside crank arm, and everything else is the same as before?

So that driveside crank (with axle) was previously installed in that bottom bracket? And now it won’t go in?

Yep, same driveside, same bottom bracket, all that’s changed is the left-side. I took the BB off to grease it while I was there, but it’s back on tight against the frame, with the spacers in the same place. It’s like it’s breathed out or something!

Hit it (rubber mallet or soft hammer), the drive side is still too far out, theirs another couple of mm to go.

It’s had a proper bashing with a rubber hammer, it doesn’t want to go any further. Even tightening the pre-load bolt onto the crank doesn’t pull it far enough 🙁

Try typing in the IP directly, to eliminate DNS or localhosts problems:

Copy/paste this into the address bar: 173.194.66.104

Loving that Underset mix you posted a few weeks back, Mister P 🙂

@Mister P – The K&D Sessions – YESS! It would also fight Sasha GU San Francisco for me…

My ‘modern’ version of Sasha/Digweed/Warren would be Guy J currently – definitely one to watch:

@ir_bandito That sounds very wrong…but I might just have to try it…