My Gill ProSpeed jacket leaked after I’d had it about 18 months, on the arms especially. The membrane has cracked pretty extensivly on the elbows and shoulders, and it has always seemed more drafty than other waterproofs i’ve had.

I guess this be just because its so thin, as I can’t say I found it much less boil in the bag than some of the cheaper jackets. Why can’t someone do a goretex/event shell with pit zips?

I think the straps are moulded in.

I should have mentioned my alignment issue when the weld between the seat tube and the BB shell cracked and it had to go back to Orange with 2 weeks left on the waranty, but didn’t… At least their repairs hold up well!

I’d re-dish the wheel slightly if I could could be bothered to get round to it. Can’t say I notice anything when riding.

My 2005 frame has a similar problem, the wheel rim being offset to the none driveside of the swingarm by a bit less than 1cm. It’s been like it since new and I bet we’re not the only ones…

Jon, what sort of drive is it and is it spinning up at all?

If you’ve been lucky you might just have fried the case and not the drive inside. They’re usually standard SATA/IDE drives inside once you take a screwdriver to it and the data can be recovered just by bunging it in another PC. I can have a look if you like?

Buck

6ft, 35″ inseam, ride a large with an 80mm stem.

Bars are mid rise EA70’s and am probably over braked with 200/180 mono M4’s, but then I’m a bit fat at the moment!

I used to run RS revs but have got some 08 Fox TALAS on now and it feels loads better. Run them at 120mm most of the time, with 100mm being useful on steep climbs. Don’t tell Cy, but I have used them at 140mm a couple of times and it does fell more stable at speed but less nimble when things get twisty. I certainly wouldn’t put an unadjustable 140mm fork on it, especially if you have to ride any long or steep climbs.

I used 2.2 Race King Protections with Stans for HONC, inflated ok with a CO2 cart and they held pressure well. Have left the rear one on now that the trails are (were?) drying out to see how it gets on as a summer tyre.

They have a very round profile and the shoulder knobs are about the same height as the centre tread unlike the ralph’s, and yes they do come up smaller like pretty much every conti i’ve used. Very fast rolling though.

It happens, as long as its not the kind of leak where it goes down in the space of a couple of minutes it’ll usually seal ok after shaking and or riding, I’ve only had to use the bucket trick on really thin sidewalled tyres.

I’ve recently just taken to going for a local ride and checking the pressure every time I have to stop, I’m sure that shakes the tyre a lot more than I ever could in the garage!

What’s this Jon, you getting tempted to ride uphill as well as down!

I’m not surprised you’re slow with supertackys, I’ve got a pair of 2.25 Crossmarks in 60a and they’re hardwork for general CX duties, but really good at CyB and the like. For more general XC rides mega soft tyres take such an effort to keep moving that you can’t get up to speed to use the extra grip.

If you want I’ve got some panaracer rampages you could borrow. Have moved over to stans and don’t trust them to stay on the rim without a tube inside after a couple of issues with a pair of fire xc’s i’ve got. Let me know if you fancy trying em.

Mavic 719’s would be my rim of choice, a bit more robust than 717’s and the extra width is good for bigger tyres, only a bit heavier as well.

I can take you out on a training circuit with Matt if you like, I’m sure we’d soon have you in shape…