Was thinking you could of put a hinged piece at the front. Ie. If twas 8ft you could of had a hinged 2ft wide piece going across the front so in the down position you’ld have a 6ft opening that you could then lift the hinged piece forming an overhang and an 8ft opening. Clad in cedar shingles.

How high is the front off of the ground?

Hard to guess why he might of done it without pictures..

Personally I wouldn’t use underlay.
If you have money for underlay buy a thicker felt.
Overlapping the front will put a drip edge further out. Screw a baton underneath the front/ back edge of ply, fold down ply and tackle, fix a decorative fascia to the batons..

Space the noggins at 610 also for a nice symmetrical pattern..start on the join ..
You should have a ply overhang front and back..

As for the shed part you can sister the rafters where they’re staggerd..

Keep it on the front page..
Up we go

Where are you based?

By diagonal bracing I didn’t mean corner to corner I meant knee-braces..my fault..
Good luck

I’d be interested..could possibly bring a couple more..where are you setting up camp?

Re side-/front-loading…sustained loading WILL cause movement…and although the noggins are in place you’ve only screwed into the end grain of the noggin which is the weakest connection you could make..don’t think it will be as strong as a pegged tendon a la ‘ timber-frame ‘..overtime the structure could weaken. Any diagonal bracing reduces any movement significantly..
I must admit though I do tend to over-build..

If you were going to have 3 rafters per board the 1.22m ply joint would span 3 rafters.

Re Diagonal bracing..forget these if you’re happy with how far you’ve sunk the corner posts. What size are they and how deep did you go?

How wide is the opening on the open part..you might need a knee-brace to help support the weight of the roof here..

If you’re worried about weight on the ring put coach-bolts through.

crown up

Personally I’d stagger at 1m intervals and not worry about the join. Structural above asthaetics..
Staggered over 3 rafters so that you land on the join of the ply if your that bothered about looks but people will only look up once when they first visit and will tell you what a brilliant job you’ve done. After that they’ll just get on with doing whatever under it..
Space your rafters at 305 centers over the large span if using 4×2. Put the crown upwards.
The noggins will be to stop the rafters twisting..2×2 won’t cut it here
If you want to use the 2×2 up cut at 45deg and put in strategically placed braces in to resist side-loading from the wind.

Don’t use the paint. The wood will have a certain amount of movement in all weathers and I doubt the paint will move with it and would probably crack over time. Don’t hold the felt overlap down with batons as this will just hold moisture and rot.
Do use 12mm external ply or above. Do use noggins but I’d space every 1.22m staggered.

Wouldn’t of been my choice of material for a pent roof but hey ho.

Every type of bike has been recommended apart from a tricycle..fatbike, E-bikes, rigid 29ers, full suss, alloy, steel, long-travel hardtail, short-travel hardtail…..good luck choosing.

It says it’s rated for external use so yes..

wickes 18mm ply

Last time I asked TP for this they wanted £50

The boards I’m suggesting is ply. A full ply sheet measures 2.44 x 1.22m. The roof slopes front to back and is 3m long. This would mean if you put a ply sheet on lengthways front to back you’ld be left with a 56cm cut. The piece of board you have left you cut off a 56cm rip and start the next row with this. You’ll get 4 56cm wide strips out of a full sheets of ply.
Over a 3m span I’d normally use 6x2s @ 407mm centers but you’ve already 4x2s forming the ring so I’d span the 3m with 4x2s but bring the centers down to 305mm.
Put noggins in to prevent twisting.

Edit..we’re typing at the same time again..over the 3m span I’d definitely go 305 centers..on the shed bit you have a supporting wall so 407 centers will be fine.
Don’t go to travis for your ply. I’m trade and buy my ply from wickes at normal prices as it’s cheaper than TP.
Wbp ply if you can get it if not Hardwood ply from wickes..

Will the roof be over the decked section ?
I’d personally use 150 x 50 C24 @ 400 oc but as you’ve already the 100mm on the ring I’d reduce the measurements 100 x 50mm treated C24 305mm oc and use ply lengthways front to back and stagger the joints..ie. 2.44m + 0.56m ( 3m ) then on the next row.start with 0.56m + 2.44m…

4″ screws have a high shear strength..what size screws are they 100mm x 5 or 6mm. If no moisture gets in to them they won’t rust. As for the braces I’d be more concerned about the side load caused by wind over the months years etc..
Treated 100 x 50mm C24 at 400mm centers will be good for any snow-load that might occur in this country. 15mm ply will aid roof strength better than osb.

Osbourn = osb auto correct sorry.
I’ll have a quick study of your build..
Re rafters..what’s the span?

If you can get away with it put some diagonal braces in..

Just use a 12 or 15mm external ply unless cost is a issue just use Osborne and finish the boards on the middle of rafter.
Rafters minimum 400mm oc.

Sorry oldschool…no offense intended. Didn’t get the jist of it.

Sorry I can’t really say. I did stay at the Owen bunkhouse opposite for £15 for a night and they had a shipping container..

Oldschool…You’re obviously not a craftsman/tradesperson…

Why would you use 20 year old hinges on a new door?

Exactly like that..

Called to fit a couple of 4 panel pine doors a few months ago. Lady already has the doors..gave a price.t back
Turn up
One door is so warped from where she’s stored it I had to take it back along with the other that was damaged.
Tubular mortice latches had the wrong size set-back putting the edge of the handle plate over the edge of the stile. Wrong size hinges meaning the doorstops had to be replaced…I charged a bit extra but got nowhere near my day-rate..so basically went to work for a loss.

I’ve recently been asked to quote for supply and fit some skirting, architrave, 8 doors, door-furniture etc..
Phone call
Site visit
Measure up
Leave door and furniture catalogue.
She doesn’t know what skirting so can i bring some samples around.
Take samples
She’s decided which doors so can I quote..
No doors in the style she likes in the size needed so phonecalls, Internet etc..
She calls and actually likes a different door..again I have to search for a supplier for the size..phone her up with a price and she says can we do the first doors she liked and change the linings….

You see where this is going..5 hrs in, petrol costs, phonecalls and I haven’t got the job yet..

Top of the Mossetts lift, Switzerland. 7000ft+

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A set of Bombers…

What is this devilry?
An adapter that plugs into the OBD connector in the car?

No need to plaster. Buy tapered edge boards put a scrim-tape in and fill with joint filler..( easifill ).
Stagger the boards ie no cross-joints.

Jamiesilo..yes mesh-tape & you’ve read it correctly..fill the gap through the mesh first fill = gap and overall width of say 4 inches. Second fill out our the 4 inches..about 6 inches and feather into the board. If you can get a mist-coat ( ideally drywall primer ) on first you’ll have less hassle with the caulk.

Yes German engineering.. I’ve built expansion-gaps in 90min fire-rated partitions where the expansion gap itself has to be fire-rated to 90mins
And been in school classrooms where they set up sound equipment on one side of the partition and measuring equipment on the other side to see if the partition has been built to the required decibel rating… oh and everything built off of a datum..

Any gap over 2mm I’ll fill with scrim tape and filler but only put the scrim over the gap butted up to the other board. Fill again, sand mist-coat then caulk. This allows for any movement that you get between the two plains happens behind the caulk. Paper- or scrim-tape and a skim-coat arent structural and wont hold or stop any movement from wall/wall or wall/ceiling.
I Taped and joined for over 16years ( averaged 400 – 500m2 per week )learnt my trade in Germany who were years ahead of Britain in the dry-lining/ partioning game in every respect; accoustics, movement, fire-ratings..etc coming back to this country so stuck in its ways used to make by blood boil when talking to sites agents or architects…typical example..worked at a new Mod complex where the office block was 150 meters long 3 storeys high. The atrium went full-length the of the building 20m wide with offices either side. The wall either side of the atrium were clad in metal-stud, plasterboard and jointed full height and full length apart from around the office windows looking into the atrium. Not one expansions gap built into it anywhere. Every joint cracked…and the suits stand there scratching their heads as to why it might of happened..

Yeah..just added it.. I knew I was going to cook on high for longer than I normally would hoping this would have the desired affect..
I’ll bear it mind next time.

Just watched this video from Nava
https://youtu.be/V3v2-tZF_zI
Decent singletrack without the man made feel..

One evening 25+ years ago ( i was early to mid 20’s ) I met a beautiful young female in a Munich cafe. We drank coffee, then a few pils ( not pills ) we talked, giggled, cried with laughter and generally had a great time in each others company. When the cafe closed I was invited back to her flat where we watched telly ( quietly as her young daughter was asleep ) and drank wine, giggled some more etc.. long story short we got very naked there on the sofa and got extremely entwined in a very rude and totally natural way..it was fantastic. Everything seemed surreal in a ‘I can’t believe this is happening to me’ kinda way. We dressed, sat and had coffee talked some more..about 4:30 AM she says you’ll have to go now as my husband will be waking up shortly to go to work…

Hi Weeksy,
I rode with you on 15/8 with Stoner et al where we met up in Morzine..was your days riding your only experience of Morzine? I was there with my son and a few friends and found plenty of Bermy flowy trails but they are dotted about..there’s a few down from the top of Les Gets, a couple down from Avoriaz, Lindores etc. but there not all in one place..there was also a lot there out of my comfort zone also but I suppose it’s all good/part of the experience..
I’m liking the look of Finale ligure and am putting it on a shortlist as I’m after ideas for next year also..I like riding singletrack and the idea that at FL they all finish at the sea is a bonus..sipping a cold one on ghe beach after a days riding..what’s not to like..

Total cooking time was about 7 hrs in the slow cooker..3hrs on high the rest low. The shin was cubed, season floured and sealed in hot oil in a pan before adding to the slow-cooker.
I hadn’t thought of the cream option but that would of done the trick. As it happens it turned out very nice..definitely restaurant quality..it was lovely and rich..
My daughter said it was too sweet whereas my wife thought it was spicy..oh well.

CptFH lots left to try tomorrow..I normally use the ‘it’ll taste better tomorrow’ approach on my minced beef dishes..ie bolognese.