Is anybody interested in some kind of morning virtual commute meet. I’m keen to get as much motivation as possible not to lose what little momentum I’ve gained over the holiday break :)

I’ve started using the Noza S a bit more over the Holiday period.
Has anybody had issues with overheating the Noza S?
I ask because on the last ride I did an FTP type effort up Alpe du Zwift and I am starting to worry that I’m overheating the unit. I didn’t measure the temperature of the flywheel but it was too hot to hold and was emitting an aroma of burnination. I also finished stronger than I expected and suspect it was over-reporting the watts a bit due to overheating although it’d be pleasant if my fitness has actually improved that much :) I may add some kind of additional cooling just as a precaution.

Just submitted a helpdesk ticket to Wahoo and a warranty claim to Chain Reaction.

The Noza S is made by Acer/Xplova and not Wahoo. Something I’ve found is an issue is on the Zwift connection screen it adds the PowerMeter as Bluetooth and the Controllable as ANT+, however, it only works correctly in ERG mode when I manually set both connections to Bluetooth.

BTW, added a turn of tension to the spokes and the wheel has been working great and holding true even after some fairly rough use.

The old crank arm is just a handy way to relieve the crossed spokes without them digging into thumbs and hands.

I’m from a female uterus and I’m older than I wish I was.

Yeah, actually, the issue isn’t so much the size of the mech but that the design of the extended link hanger limits how far the mech can be rotated backwards. It could perhaps be alleviated by filing back the stops.

Yes clutch off.
I think the issue is limited tyre clearance, wheel can’t move forward enough to get the cassette past the jockey wheel.

I’m conflicted by the responses saying people will avoid the park. On one hand of course people should try to keep themselves safe, however, on the other hand there is safety in numbers and avoiding the park will make it easier for riders who do continue to go to the park to be isolated and targeted.
It’s also kind of letting the ‘terrorists’ win.

Arranging to ride round in groups would be ideal.

[Caveat] I’m no legal expert but [Caveat] a quick google suggests that the classification of armed robbery is not reserved specifically for the use of firearms, but also other weapons (including knives and batons). IIRC the pro-rider in question posted via Instagram that the police were treating it as such.

‘Armed robbery’ isn’t a defined chargeable offence to begin with. There are theft related charges such as ‘robbery’, or the aforementioned ‘assault with intent to rob’, and the separate charges relating to weapons such as ‘Threatening with Weapon in Public’

I managed to work out the part number is 3C0 145 828 but it is strange, can’t seem to buy an aftermarket part without the connector – the OEM connector is of better quality and has an inner sleeve so would rather just change the hose.

Usually, the headphone out is usually designed for a load of about 32 ohm and attenuates based on the volume control. Whereas the line out is intended for a high impedance load and does not attenuate.
Where exactly the headphone signal comes from depends on topology, but it usually works ok as a line out when you’ve got the volume control in the right position. In OP’s case they just need to get a cable to connect the headphone jack into an input of the old amp, so only costs a few quid to take a a punt.

If you feel so inclined to spend a bit of time and do fiddly work then you could take off all the fans/heat sinks and spreaders, clean everything with isopropanol and then put it all back together with top quality thermal paste.
For thermal paste there tends to be a compromise between thermal conductivity and how easy it is to spread – I tend to go for something a bit easier to spread especially for notebook use where the clamp forces are not so high.

I got the flexible hose clamp pliers which was a great help, although still not entirely straightforward due to how stiff the clips are, and they’d sunk into the rubber. I find them a nightmare compared to the regular spring clamps that have proud levers to grap hold of.

Of course, the motor factors database gave the wrong part, I suspect it fits an Audi with a bigger turbo – so I ended up cutting the hose off that and bodging it in place by wrapping some inner tube around the flange to build out the diameter…

I still need to find the correct part…

I’d suggest building with tension measurement before mounting tyre, but potentially re-verify the tension is within acceptable range after mounting and pumping up the tyre if this is likely to have a significant impact – e.g. a tubeless road setup for a larger person who runs high pressures.

My plan B are Mikalor Supra Hose Clamps which are way better than Jubilee Clips and seemed rather cheap for 2 under a fiver, but I do hope that I get the tool and retain the self tightening clips.

You are talking about the ones with two tabs you have to push together around a rubber pipe right?

Sort of but there are no tabs standing proud, have the squeeze the overlapping ends of the ring that are sitting flush and they overlap by about 35mm and it is thick metal so have to squeeze hard. No way pincers would get purchase – molegrips the ones big enough to span the gap hit the bulkhead before I can get them in position.

Yesterday I did order cheapo long reach clamp pliers but I am not sure if they will work, I’ve ordered a couple of Mikalor Supra Hose Clamps as a plan B.

No doubt everything will arrive in the wrong time and I’ll end up breaking something when wrestling with it :)

But, it’s not the first Rogue One – that was available on DVD and Blu-Ray

That one was deliberate :)

Yeah I use and old crank arm as a lever between each pair of crossed spoke and then grasp each pair of adjacent drive/nondriveside spoke between my hands, still tend to get a few pings from the wheel on first use but minimal or no change of true after first ride.
They were not in a cluster, don’t remember to reference points to check whether the other spokes went up or down.
The wheel was true in both directions to about +/- 0.3mm, more scrutiny on the roundness than the lateral, which was a relative lazy job for me, normally I do it to +/- 0.1mm, I’m a very slow and inefficient wheel builder. I’ve got a dial gauge I use right at the end – would like to use it more throughout the build but yet to work out how I can get/make a rotating wheel to use as the measuring interface.

Oh dear, accidental typo.
I’ve built perhaps 10 wheels and this is the first Rogue One.
I did perhaps use less tension than I usually do, will try tensioning it up a bit and see how it goes.

I understand tubeless tyres reduce spoke tension when used tubelessly but I thought this effect would be negated when using a tube 🤔

Personally, I’d repair with offset solder joints and heatshrink over both the inner wire and outer sheath insulation, although some people might not be tooled up for doing that.

Alternatively, there are many different types of in-line cable joints e.g. this one

A chocbox overwrapped with tape wouldn’t technically conform to mechanical or ingress protection guidelines, however they DO have strain relief and DO NOT rely on tape for insulation (when dry and undamaged at least) so is at least a step above the typical bodge repair of bare screw terminal blocks and a bit of tape…

In the team pursuit, the lead Danish rider was looking at the floor for an extended period of time in order to be as aero as possible, this caused him to crash into the trailing UK rider.

Seems pretty crazy that UCI makes all sorts of rules for sock height, banning supertuck, etc but have nothing targeted towards lead riders maintain some forward situational awareness.

I admit, at this level of riding you would not expect the 3rd competing rider to have fallen so far back, but all sorts of hazards can occur on the track – fallen rider/equipment issue etc. Surely it is reasonable to expect lead riders to maintain a bit of forward vision and try to avoid hazards?

VLC can do some strange stuff due to the way they’ve integrated the codec libaries into the player app. There are some workarounds, like disabling hardware acceleration, changing the cache size.

Personally, I’d rather use ffplay with the ffmpeg libraries, that way I’ve got a suite that can handle both playback and transcoding and it is easier to trace how it is working.

Thanks for the race info.

I also like the short lactate shuffle, although I perhaps do it in a strange way – set it to 115%FTP and see how far into the final Z6 interval I can make it (not sure if I’ve made it half way through yet).

Cardboard weighs about 700kg/m^3

@Kryton57 @mrlebowski I did the Gorricks too
Pity you were not doing the Day 1 AM Kryton, then we could’ve both been at the back together :)

I only managed to get in top 10 for round 3, I think a bunch of the better people were on holiday that week :)

Didn’t have brutal bits as such but was relentless, more like doing a 3hr time trial than a traditional MTB endurance where there tend to be some long downhills.

I need to lose weight, and train..

Any other races coming up? around London? I only found out about Gorrick by chance.

a) Tools
b) Servicing/maintanance/contractors

I just stuck some aluminium foil behind some white cardboard and used that to reflect the wifi field away from where I don’t want it (neighbour/street) and into the house. Does boost the range of the router, although it doesn’t produce the 12dpi gain that the properly designed parabolic reflectors do on my other router set up as a bridge.

Make sure there are no bits of grit in there, apply a bit of light oil, and a basic blind bearing puller with a set of collets is a good investment.

I generally find seating tubeless tyres a PITA, it was easier when rims were too narrow.

I also have the Joeblow and find the airflow restricted because it takes a circuitous path through several small holes (pic below). I increased the airflow of mine by taking it apart (PITA) and drilling out the smallest holes but it still takes way longer than 3 seconds to discharge. Perhaps Topeak changed the design at some point?

Anyway, the trick to getting tyres to seat is to make sure there is a bit of water on the rim and tyre bead to help it slide into place and give the tyre a big double slap while the air is going into it which creates an extra increase in pressure that pops the bead into place.

Thanks for the info all.
Another one I found is the Astro Slide 5G which appears to be in latter stages of crowdfunding. However, none of my suggested solutions have quite hit the mark yet.

Thanks for the various mansplanation tips, but I’ve already moved on from that phase. To be fair, she does type very quickly and accurately on her BB phone.

@CountZero I roo am inclined towards pedanticism :) . However I was attempting to align with common parlance from GSMarena and other typical sources which seems to use the term ‘QWERTY keyboard’ for phones with mechanical keyboard feature. I did embellish my post with ‘must have buttons for typing rather than touch screen’ perhaps I should’ve said ‘must have a mechanical QWERTY keyboard, not a keyboard conveyed by capacitive or resistive touchscreen’.

Ooh this intervals.icu thing looks cool.
I happened to end up in the same zone as you guys, by myself, after having a sensor fault in the earlier session.
The cadence thing is to an extent due to individual phisiology I guess – slower cadence is mechanically more efficient but needs higher muscle forces, higher cadence loads the cardio a bit more.

I finally sorted out an acceptable way of getting phone on bike for Zwift – now I am able to activate powerups with slightly less chance of falling over.
I am far too cheapscate to pay £40ish for quadlock so I spent a couple of quid on a stick-on male garmin mount from ebay and attached that onto a phone protector case. I probably wouldn’t trust it for outdoors riding but seems to work well for Zwift – bonus is that being in front of my stem is is out of the way of my sweat stream.

I seem to have convinced myself to do the TTT again this week with a local club. It being flatlands that are well suited for my largeness probably helped.
I initially didn’t realize that WTRL determines the club tag based on primary team rather than the username so I was signed up under STW for a while – I hope that didn’t cause any confustion.
Good luck all.

1. There are capacity issues on a local level especially in old cities and at a generation level. There are some ways of managing things e.g. charging overnight when other power demand is low but overall lots of infrastructure work does need to be done facilitate widespread use of EVs.

2. In theory – charging posts near the kerb would service electric charging for sites that don’t have off road parking.

3/4. Although some people pretend otherwise, people don’t have any special rights to the bit of public road outside their house – with the exception to areas of dropped kerb for driveways. Spaces are reserved only if they get an individual designated permit bay, or can defacto be reserved if they have a disabled bay.
You can designate parking areas for electric vehicles which would seem like a reasonable way to deal with areas serviced by charging facilities.

A mate bought an Elite Direto form CRC/Wiggle

When I was looking the Elite stuff did appear to be more obtainable. The Tacx and Wahoo stuff appears to be in more demand.

How do you record commutes on Strava so that they add to your yearly totals but don’t clog up other people’s feed?

Penny just dropped why I get so few kudos on my commutes even when I am more adventurous and do something like 70km.

I am being exceedingly antisocial with my Virtual riding – just the way my schedule is at the moment.
Have been trying to do TdZ though.

Stage 7 (group B) this morning, I joined 2 min before the start, with no warmup and on a MTB. This made it rather hard to get to the front, however when on the mud MTB definitely seemed to help me keep with a small group near the front.

I finished 5th which is my best TdZ result yet (although not actually a race, not cat A etc). However, this brings me to my motivation for this post to share that MTB seems to be a good tactical choice for stage 7. I was surprised that most other riders seemed to be on Road (or possibly Gravel) bikes.

Now suffering doing the ride with no warmup, IMS which will no doubt be followed up by increasing levels of OMS and DOMS.

Just wondering why virtual rides less interesting to follow on Strava than real ones?
For instance it’s been a while since I nearly fell on a real ride but I quite frequently nearly or actually fall off my rollers when I’ve pushed myself getting to a finish line or up a hill in a Zwift race.

As a Strava user I do try not to upload mundane activities like walking though – although there was a month when I was using Strava to sync to a workplace activity challenge so was tracking and uploading every little thing I was doing.

Thanks for the tips regarding Bricklink

Shame I missed the Rough Terrain Crane at £100 a few weeks ago.

I just spotted it for £100 https://www.argos.co.uk/product/8366306 Tempted myself, but a bit over my budget.

I want to prototype some stuff well suited to technic lego. Any ideas on cost effective ways to get a bunch of random parts that I can play with? Stuff like pins, axles, gears, rack pins, Plates, beams, bushings and suchlike.

Any particular kits I should look out for? I do see there are a few vendors on ebay that sell groups of parts which could work, but will end up costing a bit to buy a variety of stuff from them.

I’ve got an urge to buy some Lego at the moment. I think my parents still have all my technic from the 1990s in their attic

The last time I dabbled with lego I bought #6753 which was similar to #42082 but could make a construction crane, lorry, and car transporter. I liked it because it was mostly standard lego parts rather than bespoke blocks and I think it was only £30 half price from Wilkos – maybe worth a look.