I’d have a moan about it if it were me.

If you are pressed for time, I might be tempted to skip Barra (just cos of ferry timings really) and start in the Uists. Route-wise you can’t really go wrong, just head north!

I like scotroute’s suggestion for the southbound leg. If you wanted more time for sightseeing, you could do something like Oban-Uist ferry, head north, then Tarbert-Uig ferry and back to Oban via Skye/Mull etc.

Oh, and you guys must be codding if you think mussel-ing in with that sort of carry on will work – you are skate-ing on thin ice I tell you.
(salt and vinegar? open or wrapped?)

Aw, cmon, they’ll all want to go now you’ve made it look sunny!

No, it’s all horrible you couldn’t possibly enjoy a moment of it. If by some chance you do, keep quiet about it, eh?

The Uig (Skye) to Tarbert crossing is far more pleasant, more sheltered, and somehow just a bit friendlier. The roads up to Uig make for a great drive too, if you are that way inclined.

Callanish and the Arnol blackhouse are worth a look, but otherwise what piemonster said.

is it St Etienne – he’s on the phone?

EDIT, no wait – it must be that abba one…

It might not be relevant to your question, but the opinion I’ve got is definitely the best one.

It’s a trap!
</akbar>

Out of the original options, get a black one, then polish it. Lots. Then polish it.

But get a red one.

OP: sounds like something’s amiss (assuming that’s a real change). In mine the a/c is off (regardless of what button you press) when outside temp is under 4 deg. So, pressing the button makes no difference until about May…

Single entity, made up of several individuals:

Was the fire service required? vs
Were firefighters required to attend?

Likewise Sunderland AFC is (but the players of SAFC are…).

T13 VAH on (I think) a Scooby.

I like this – is there a button I should click?

Hey, at least you didn’t have to console him over a spill.

i bet the valves don’t line up with the tyre logos.

Ignoring the multi tool part completely, what about something along these lines:
Little Mester. A bit posher than the opinel. Heaps of variations to choose from.

Not Parus major then?
/IGMC

http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-heavy-duty-staple-gun/62930

no, really, my pleasure ;-)

congrats, etc – it’ll be ace! Filer the advice you receive, it is often worth what you pay for it.

Best advice I ever got: Whatever it is; its a phase.

edit: never wake a child to feed it!

this +1. My only gripe with sealskinz gloves was taking them off without then having to spend half the day getting the fingers back in. Went to Altura night visions with seperate liners.

I’d say there was a couple of 1000 left on those, but given you’ve done all the hard work (and have them out) why not put the new ones in. Since you’ve just had all the bolts undone I doubt you’ll have anything to worry about when you come to do the discs.

For the price of pads I’d be inclined to do them again when you get round to doing the discs.

Ninfan’s already said what I would have done, so just to add my sympathies for your situation. I’d strongly suggest that you make careful notes of significant events (and get copies of related emails and policies off-site pronto).

You might wish to ask why the process has been started now, and in this way, especially given the many opportunities at 1:1 where no issues have been raised. What does your employer’s policy say about this approach?

provide all current compensation details:

nah – just tell em what you’d like.

I may regret joining in…

but I’m not very sure there was contact between the Jag and the bike. It looks to me (not there, don’t know, etc) that the Jag was further away from the bike after the fall than would have been the case had there been a bump. Otherwise, he’d have hit the bus too?

Might I also be so bold as to postulate the that Jag driver really was an officer of the law? Despite the ongoing discussion I got the impression of some room between car and bike. That doesn’t explain why the car drove away, unless it was to get off the main road so the driver could walk back to assist. I wonder what the next few minutes of film showed, or indeed the cameras that the bus driver mentioned.

I don’t know the junction, but got the impression that the choice of position by the cyclist could have been better – he said at the start that the driver was ignoring him, but chose to join the line of traffic there anyway. As others have said, the whole thing could have been so easily avoided.

My crystal ball/blatant construction says he was riding fixed on a road bike and caught the front mudguard with his foot.

wayhey, what a great bit of kit. Glad to see it’s still going strong. I love the noise of the main gear/flywheel thingy. Pretty sure there’s one in japan and one in the states – did we do this before, or am i getting vuja de? (not complaining like)

Got an Alpha 7 for sale – no bluetooth, but does the rest…

We got ours done a few years ago, can’;t remember the price but it was well under a grand (SGN for us). But we did get a cheque back since we were moving to a more efficient fuel than the electric heaters that we replaced. I think it was in the order of 250, so took a good bit of the sting out of it.

Stupid And Pointless?

I have the C15 and it is marvellous. I’ve had leather B17s in the past, which are great for all day, but sometimes less so for the first mile or two. The C15 is great from word go. It’s somewhat narrower, pretty similar dimensions to a Rolls, which I also find very good.
Not light, but who gives?

Can I call dibs?

+1 for the overboard per Gary M above. Actually waterproof, doesn’t break the bank, crashes tolerably well.
I found whatever kit you use for commuting gets absolutely hammered, but the overboards seem to be pretty tough.

what age of word were you using at the time? .docx is an xml format so there are some ‘opions’ available to you.

sharkbait – I’m glad it’s not just me!

Off the original list, I’ve always fancied a VFR800, reckon that might suit ‘just going about’ rather than proper touring though.
The R1100S really surprised me in how much I liked it – very easy to ride, comfortable etc – I’m 5’8 and it was fine for height, etc.
Not so sure about the ZZR – I never got on with mine, wasn’t comfortable in the way the bimmer was, and wasn’t as good for warming your gloves up when you stop for fuel.

Not sure I read where your touring plans take you? Autobahns – get a blackbird, anywhere rainy or cold, get the bimmer, UK – VFR.

or style it out with a Ducati and a credit card – you know you want to.

rats – took me too long to work out how to do videos!

it’s like he was floatin’ on air.

also my four-year-old’s current favourite video (although he’s gone off McHammer now for some reason…)

@Tracker:

1

also, @northwind – you owe me a keyboard, this one is full of tea.

Tracker – you win the thread, although i understand she ought to be properly known as The Mighty River Don Engine. The biggest engine in Europe.
There were four of these. One is in Japan, the other in the States (I think) – unbelievably perhaps the fourth is ‘missing’. How do you lose something that size?
the reversing is indeed the clever bit – the reversing mechanism is operated without closing the throttle.

def “need” two drills.
your bosch died a month later than it should have, but check and see if your aldi has any of their SDS drill left – 39 quid will resolve your big hole making requirements. Add another tenner if (like me) you fail to resist metre long drill bits.
for more subtle use, a cordless drill/driver is indispensable in my view. I went with makita, but only cos they were on special. Nice bitta kit. drill/percussion and has a torque limit so you don’t over-do screws.
oh – I’ve just done the ‘recommend what I bought’ thing haven’t I?

the ability to entertain an idea without accepting it.

Depending on how your time data are formatted/recorded, I’d probably go for what scaredypants says.

Inter-conversion of time is a chore (and I think it differs between Win and Mac), but I’d start by turning on the Analysis Tool Pack and have a play with CONVERT or some combination of e.g. =MINUTE(cellref)*60+SECOND(cellref)to get a time value in seconds.

Failing that, excel does ‘decimal time’ where increments of a day = 1, so e.g. 12 noon = 0.5. Again, I think the starting point differs between Win and Mac, but F1 is your friend for the details.

Then plox x (in seconds) on a log axis.

You’re welcome – dates in excel always seem to cause more trouble than they should!

Right-click on the axis, and choose format axis – new pane pops up (at the right, or maybe floating) – does changing between a text axis and date axis help?

I can’t quite work out from the description if that’s the problem though – sorry. Can you post a screen shot?

Edit: yes I can, I’ve just discovered that if you have names of months (e.g. oct) it behaves differently to if you have dates (e.g. 01-Oct). However, the number format/display might be ambiguous. The fix above works for date-formatted cells, toggling between date order (months in sequence) and text order (as per your list).