thoughts ?

You’re insane. £38k would get you any number of daft cars – a recent M3 for a start. Or an S2000 and a GTI/Subaru/Evo. Or a Caterham and a quick 4 seater.

Just can’t see where the value is in that Honda.

I won’t order from them, on the basis that their name isn’t specific or descriptive enough.

Well I am trolling somewhat of course.

Why? What’s the point? A guy asks about a car, and you deliberately try to draw people into unrelated arguments, stuffing his chance of getting any more info. Pointless. If you want to have an argument, you can always start a thread titled “Why the BMW 335D is rubbish, and implies the owner is of small genital stature”.

Cosworth BDA or Subaru Flat Four?

Tron – don’t know what they did to the mk4 R32 Golf but it worked wonders.

Wider track and better camber control therefore you lose less negative / gain less positive camber on the outside wheel under cornering loads. Neg camber basically produces a turning effect in the same way as leaning a bike does – the inside of the tyre isn’t travelling as far as the outside.

Edit: I’m **** flabberghasted that molgrips is bringing up social constructionism in a thread about Skodas… For his next trick, he’ll be turning a tyre thread into an examination of dialectical materialism.

R32 had a 3.2 V6 (I had mk4 one for a year) not a 1.8T unit

It has, but that’s got nothing to do with the suspension geometry 🙂

VAG basically used a standard and hotted up suspension geometry across the entire range of cars. I did at one point have a fair idea of which cars got which, as a guy from the GTI club was building a Corrado with R32/TT/S3 suspension geometry and explained it all at length.

Oh, and way I say A4, I mean MK4 Golf based, not Audi A4…

The Octy was a decent machine and handled far better than the other two.

I wonder which suspension setup the Octavia got. The R32, TT, and S3 if I recall correctly all have slightly different suspension arms and hub carriers to the standard A4 chassis which give some pretty decent geometry improvements.

Aye, but given this morning’s results, I’d have been better off missing an hour or two or having a couple of alcoholic drinks to send me on my way.

Have you tried furiously masturbating in a bus stop

At the moment, I can’t even think of the nearest bus stop 🙄

Aye, I followed the instructions on the box like a fool 😆

There’s no speeding things along a bit then? I feel like I’ve dropped 50 IQ points overnight.

There’d be a fair chance of my heart bursting I reckon. I took the nytol with the aim of nodding off without my brain going “YOU’VE GOT A LOAD OF WORK TO DO”. 😆

Note that I said “good education”. 😀

TBH I don’t get why everyone on here bangs on about the Octavia VRS, when the Leon Cupra has more power and a hatchback.

Both are based on the VAG A4 platform that’s used by the MK4 Golf, TT, A3 etc.

I’d love to know what they were thinking when they put those white / silver panels in the VRS’ seats too 😆

Edit: Just twigged that the Octavia is a hatch that does a decent job of looking like a saloon, not an actual Saloon like a Bora.

Good education challenges you and changes the way you think. It’s about more than just the knowledge you pick up on the course.

It also provides a handy way of proving that someone can deal with large amounts of complex information in a short period of time, which is handy when you’re wading through rules and regs.

Par for the course in our house was for the vital missing notes to be found in the bottom drawer in the living room chest of drawers. Under the takeaway menus.

Southern end of Feurte is decent too. Northern end is full of chavs.

If it’s a big 7 seater and London traffic, 20mpg doesn’t sound unreasonable. Stop start would help a lot I reckon – and you can get plenty of stop start petrols now.

How many times has solar activity supposedly been going to ruin every electrical device on the planet? More than I care to remember.

I’ve never had one where you can’t thread an assembled pipe through happily. That said I stick to VW’s because they’re made by relatively sane people 😆

You will break all the clips that hold the pipe off the bodywork. Buy some new ones from the dealer.

And if the copper pipe doesn’t fit quite right when you offer it up, and it’s work hardened (does that very easily), a light waft with a blowtorch will anneal it so you can bend it again.

100mph? KTM?

Fair enough. If there’s any possibility of getting anything else, I would though – there’ll more than likely be another list on next year’s fail sheet.

Some half decent stuff seems to change hands at that sort of money now – high milers, but nothing that’s going to rust like a Ka. As she’s finding out, bodywork is one of the most expensive things that can go wrong with a car.

Aye. I previously used Silkolene in my Z4s. Swapped the oil and used a bit of grease as above and they’re much better.

Eh

It’s a theory which when condensed down to the level of an OXO cube says “You can’t make decent money doing something if there’s nothing stopping anyone else from having a go”.

Take a look at the RBV and the VRIO framework.

Honestly, scrap it. Kas rust like no other recent car.

A grand will pick up something like a MK3 Golf or Polo, and they’re much cheaper cars to maintain.

Tomtom.

Got a smartphone with GPS, but wouldn’t want to rely on it for in car navigation.

TFR removes any wax you have etc. complete overkill for getting flies off.

You can get bug and tar remover – it's just a solvent. You can also get sponges with a bug removing bit on – a kind of coarse plastic mesh. Work well.

2 pages maximum, combination of paragraphs and bullet points – bulletpoints are good for lists of skills, but you want prose to describe a role.

I'm probably sounding like I'm on commission by now, but Perfect CV by Eggert is a good and to the point book 😆

What to do

Pull the stanchions out and change the oil for a different one. Cleaning the seals and using a little fork grease / rubber grease on the seals really helps too.

I've found that the seals get back to normal fairly easily – presumably the seal swell stuff diffuses into the new oil & grease over time, so the seals recover.

If you have an open bath Marzocchi, you could just raise the oil levels. That'll near enough give you a lock out.

It seems that none of the E46s (with the exception of M cars) came with an LSD. What the hell is wrong with people?

As an example, drive an old 6 cylinder Jag with an LSD, and it's a real laugh. Drive the V8, which has about 50 more horses, but an open diff, and the car's terrible in comparison. Much the same chassis and floorpan on both cars…

5 bikes and 3 names!

Hold on. E46s are getting that cheap?

'Kin hell. As soon as I've got some cash, I'll be out the door to get one. Hopefully there'll be a 12-18 month sweet spot before they're all driven by drug dealers and town centre pugilists.

Edit: Which ones come with an LSD? And do the back seats drop in any of them?

Double edit: It seems only the ones with comedy engines are cheap. 🙁

Marzocchi tend to give a rider weight of 155lbs as the upper limit for 5wt oil, 145lbs as the lower limit for 7.5wt, and 220lbs as the upper limit for 7.5, with 210lbs as the lower limit for 10wt, but it does vary a little from fork to fork – have a ride and see how the damping is.

Oil viscosity also varies manufacturer to manufacturer! 🙄

I've found Rock oil SVT to be OK, and you can pick it up for about £8 a litre from motorbike shops – same stuff is sold for motorbikes and pushbikes.

IIRC Marzocchis all take 7.5wt as standard. A mate's fairly light so I set him up with a 50:50 mix of of 5 and 7.5wt – probably works out at about 6.5wt.

If you're around 100kilos, you'll be in the 7.5wt range. And getting rid of silkolene oil made a big difference to my forks.

If you used Silkolene motorbike fork oil, that causes some stickyness – I believe there's a seal swell additive in it. Changing it for something else helps a lot..

By far the biggest improvement I've found on my old Air marzocchis was to pull the stanchions out, put fresh oil and then then lube the seals with brake caliper seal grease. It's rubber safe and made a massive difference to the stiction.

If it's for fork seals, you'll get away with Lockheed / Delphi Rubberlube from the motorfactors.

Knowledgeable and qualified doesn't always mean clever.

I used to work with a guy who was insanely well qualified – PhD and a post doc. He wasn't able to think particularly well around problems or work at a decent rate. But he was very expert in the stuff he'd studied.

I'm going to have to change my name at this rate. 😆

Already had bacon & eggs, but I'm not the man you're looking for…