Milling runs the risk of damage when you clamp the frame and will always be visible. How about using a Dremel, you get the speed with a similar result as drilling or filing.

It's a simple job, you need a small amount of "free play" in the inner cable to ensure it stays up ie: it's very sensitive.
And don't forget to check where the cable goes when the post is lowered, I had a cable/wheel interference on full compression issue that needed a little "cable management"

The lid has a vent in it to allow the bellows to expand/contract with the fluid movement. Try cleaning between the bellow and the lid, or swap the lid from the front brake to prove the theory.

Sounds good, but where is it?
(Darlo, born & bred)

How about these http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html
Waiting for them to make some long enough for me to try…

I think the reference gives it away, but it's a crap ad. "120481-272-BLK"
27.2 dia?

Doh! must learn to type faster…..

Ardent and Minion, both easy to fit with my hands. Both are wire bead.

XM819 rims have a 538 ERD, if that helps your calcs.

Hope list their hubs dim's on their site, if you have the rim,you can measure it yourself, if not have you looked on the Sun site?
Not sure why DT have changed the site, it was my first call for spoke lengths. Now they only list their own hubs & rims, you have to supply the info for other brands.

Was intending going over the weekend, but a thread on here yesterday and the 7stanes blog has put paid to my plans.. :cry: Lots of snow…..

How about this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3258 for the straight one, and this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3257 for the angled.

I can see that they are (mostly) out of stock. Where are you? Which type do you want? Mail me and I'll drop one in the post for you

Sounds like the bearings, but SFB has identified another option, and easier to fix. Bearing replacement is straightforward enough, you will need circlip pliers to remove the inner beaing. if in doubt LBS or Hope.

Now that you have the smaller sprockets off. Put the smallest sprocket back on, put the lock ring on and tighten it back up gently. Using the chainwhip the opposite way than when you took it apart, to pull the sprockets anti clockwise on the hub. You will feel when they have freed up, pull them forward on the hub before you undo the lock ring. The lesson here is that the lock ring tension is critical to stop the sprockets moving too much on the hub, and get a better quality cassette.

I have a Middleburn granny, (used once) & middle (unused) for the 960XTR if you are interested. Mail me if you want pics etc.

They are Hope sport hubs. Not convertable, sorry.

If he rides his new bike in the mud it will end up as heavy as a "normal" bike :wink:
Dave, have you got the chainstay thingummies?
I'm in.

Dave, it seems that you have got lost before we started ;-)

I think team Darlo will be 7 :-)

Trevor

how about these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25136

:oops: RTFM How about this: http://www.cyclesuk.com/337-482005

Trevor

How about here: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=36081

I have had good results with these http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/103/po20/rema-tip-top-mtb-tubeless-repair-kit.html

Cheers Graham, me and Tom enjoyed it too.

Trevor

Sorry lowey, missed your question. Ambulance, we were able to get back to the road before they arrived.

We were on our way towards Grizedale via Claife Heights. A bit of bridleway with sand trap in it. :( Steve unconscious and John with a dislocated and fractured shoulder. Steve was taken to Barrow hospital and John to Lancaster !!!!!!
Lots of time in the car and waiting rooms for me and Tom. Going over later today to bring him back.
Will pass on all your good wishes.
Trevor

The last ride got back to the cars at 5:00ish. So how far does your mate have to drive? BTW it was a Deejay ride :wink: Not to be confused with a "normal" ride.

The bearings are just a press fit on the axle, but they can get stuck in the cups. Use a bearing puller to make life easy for you. If the bearings end up in the cups, then drive them out with a drift, being careful to swop from one side to another so you don't damage the cup.

For tears, I use the TipTop tubless repair kit. It is a patch that goes on the inside of the tyre. Works a treat right down to the bead. Just make sure you clean the gunk off well first.

mrsflash, how are you both today, we missed the cake fest. (As well as the extra company of course :wink:)

Vision Express can tell you which lenses will take your prescription. The transitions versions are also limited to certain combinations, great for night riding, but don't work in the car.

TJ has the right answer. The "float" is the expansion of the steel disc due to heat, the alloy centre "guides" the disc, it is not a side-to-side float.

ransos has a good reason to "need" them :wink:

The rubber bumper should be on the outside of the piston assy, this is to stop metal on metal if you bottom the fork. There is also a rubber bumper in the damper side, also on the outside to equalise the support under bottom out.
Have you changed the oil in the damper? The oil level is important, so is the air pressure in the damper.

Tom and his brother pulled out at Litton, so that’s probably why you did not see him (or your bike) :wink:

The broken chain boys got back, they had borrowed fatgit’s shoes, they were where we agreed for them to be left.

Great pictures BTW.

A mate had the same problem with his SLR’s. Tell the shop where you bought them, the Mavic rep will have a look at them and sort it out, it’s a known issue.

Are you using the Hope bleed kit or doing it “manualy” I had a problem getting Deejay’s V2’s form doing just what you described. Use the kit to get the best results, you can purge a lot of fluid through before the last bubbles come out.

Tony, go for the King HD rear. I have the service tools. A little TLC twice a year is all they need. Any luck with the DMR yet?

If you look on some of the dark side forums you will find that there is a calculation of inside leg length to crank length. My guess is that for 185mm cranks you should have an inside leg of around 34-36″ 175mm are regarded as “standard” for Mr average height.

Washing up liquid for tubless, works a treat with the odd stubborn tubed tyre too.

I have used a Hope one which was very similar. Used an XC rear hub with a modified axle and end plate. Worked well but was a bit of a faff to remove the wheel. Cheaper than a new frame though.