Who needs subtitles :wink:

You remove the plate that goes around the BB and use the fixing holes to locate on the frame/swing arm

OK with IE, but a bit slow.

I have used the Mavic Presta adaptor in the past to good effect. Just thought, my sons bike is just like that at the moment. Sealing tape on the rim, Presta valve, adaptor.

Hi Dave, please could I have a copy of your diet too, email in my profile.

Cheers Trevor

Have you seen the movie ‘Deliverance’? if you have you will know what to expect. :wink: If not, watch it soon!

Can you fully compress the suspension with your current mech/chain set up?
Let the air out of the shock, or remove the spring to test it. If not, then you have found the problem. If you can get full travel and the chain still has some ‘free play’ in it then you need to look at the mech set up.

I think your correct with ‘medium’ tune for both. 175psi is the std. boost pressure.

boltonjon, I had a Reverb fail that I bought from Rose. A brand new one turned up about a week later. 8)
I have bought quite a bit of stuff from them lately, no problems with delivery times 2-5 days so far

I agree with Pauly.
I got a ‘New’ replacement recently and it has a collar in the box. Was not sure what it was for ’till now :oops:
Sorry muddy, sounds like it’s no good for your problem..

Edit, saw your reply, the collar goes on the outer shaft, not inside.

One for the blokes here:
My wife is now through it 10 YEARS since it started, read ’em ‘n’ weep.

Not sure which version of the 240’s you have but DT Swiss says 260mm / 264mm Front and 261mm Rear and Wheelpro agree. (12mm Nipples)
If you buy from CRC, go for 260mm for the rear and 258mm /262mm for the front (14mm Nipples). It might be cheaper to get them from Rose in packs of 20 though, then you could use 12mm nipples (Nipples are a seperate purchase at Rose)
Left side is disc side.

Replace them.

I tried those Clarks and found them very heavy on the thumb. Try Shimano or Nokon
Click me

Sorry, no. Bolt circle diameter is completely different, as are the hole sizes.

I used the Minoura stand for my initial building. It’s certainly good enough to learn with, and for the long term if you don’t build loads of wheels.

I built crest rims on my CK’s They were just fine :D
Then, just for the hell of it, I rebuilt them with alpines (cos they are lighter) 8)
The crests are now on Hope hubs.

I would say not common at all. Are you using Stans 25mm tape? Did you scuff up the rim first to get the tape to adhere?
Might be worth putting a tube in and leave overnight to ensure the tape is stuck properly. I had a leaky Mavic rim at the join, the jizz will seal it in time if all else fails.

No, by the same distance as the spacer(s) you have fitted. Sounds like you have rebuilt it incorrectly. Take it apart again and check?

When did you notice this ‘loose feeling’? Have you replaced anything recently, or has it just ‘crept up ‘ on you?
From experience (my son has a tracer & I have a 5.5) the back end bearings can ‘go’ from one ride to the next. You appear to have checked to death the front end, then it’s time to widen the search.
Sorry if I appear to be teaching granny to suck eggs…..

A long shot but, have you checked the rear shock bushes? Worn bushes can give the same ‘feeling’ of a loose headset.

Wiggle are doing white for £60 Flow[/url]

I use the Rema patches. Tube in on the trail, proper repair in the workshop.
I gave up on the push in types. Too fiddly and not reliable IMO.
Shop around for the Rema’s the price’s vary wildly.

How abou Stu at the Dales Bike Centre? Only about 11/2 hours from the toon!

Dales Skills[/url]

I saw Hadge’s Merlin and thought ‘Snap’

Fortunately, I still have mine.

I would be interested to hear what your “much lighter wheels” will be. I have just built up the same Kings/Alpine wheels and they are 1460g ex skewers!

I prefer this to the new style Assos cream: Century[/url]
It smells a little strange, but lasts longer.

No special tools required. The main difference from Pro2 is that the inner bearings are spaced apart, not side by side. Look at the Pro3 hub assy on the Hope site.

Northwind, the OP mentioned “less faff than a conversion kit”, and my comment was around that point. The mounting of tyres, Stans or ‘other’ brands has never given me any issues. Just my opinion..

Arch or Flow will suit from your description BUT, you still need the tape to make them tubeless. They are no different to ‘normal’ rims in that respect.

-3 above Reeth tonight, frozen puddles and a light dust of snow. :wink:
Spot on!

Formula brakes seem to be very prone to this. The fit of the piston in the bore of the caliper is very sloppy allowing the pistons to “find their own way” Got some in the workshop now that are down to the metal on the inside edge to 1mm of pad at the outside edge.

How about 4 for £50 ish http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/Chains-KMC-X9-X993-9-Spd-Chain/KMCACHAI400

I like them, they are as good as Sram 991’s and a lot cheaper.

If all else fails, you might try here: http://www.aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PHS635&Category_Code=CKBP

I have one that’s done 2 hours on a bike £12 posted? Mail details in profile.

Trevor

My brother had his bike in the house. Two dogs, a Bull Terrier and a Rotweiller. The crims took the window out completely and stole the bike.
If they want it, they will get it…….

My sealant is a mix of Copydex and water. Been using it for nearly 10 years.
I use neat washing up liquid to aid seating.

If changing from presta to schrader is the main problem, then the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive HV could be the answer. The screw on end swaps easily from one to the other. Works great on my Lezyne track pump :-)

Cable cutters, the same as you use for your gear cables etc.

Thanks for the help everyone.
Northwind, just checked Torlinnhe out, looks good, but it's full….. :(