Does he have to nail everyone in the sales dept or just the fittest one? 🙂

works fine for me, although not massively sturdy

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Zefal_Air_3_Floor_Pump_with_Gauge/5360043668/

I have Post Mount M765's with a 160mm rotor/adaptor on mine, wheel axle is about in the middle of the dropout.

If the wheel is much further back than the middle of the dropout you may end up having to use a 160mm adaptor and a 180mm rotor as the IS mounts don't have as much fore/aft movement as the dropout itself and I found the caliper didn't fit with a 140mm adaptor as it fouled the chainstay.

FSA Gravity

Can I warranty this fork despite not being the original owner and being 2008? They were new when I purchased them off ebay this year (steerer was uncut + then were in totally new condition)

TBH the worrying thing is the seals looked fine under visual inspection when I stripped the fork, but I'm no expert.

I'm feeling very disappointed at the mo because it makes you realise that very expensive forks seem to rely on a bit of plastic and a 1p propriety oil seal to keep them working and when things go wrong its alot of money to sort out. I'm not saying I have a better solution but its not as if this was a big off as the bike didn't suffer as much as I did from the crash.

Superstar ones are fine, not sure what the problem is?

A Bel Air I beam saddle for £7 off here and a set of new M765 XT brakes for £82 off ebay

Ok, I did it, used a bit of cork and some molegrips to hold the hose in place as I hammered the new insert in. No need for a re-bleed and its best if you have a helper to hold the hose for you.

Hardest part by far was getting the hose out of the lever in the first place as the bolt was very tight, almost rounded it out and then had to resort to useing pliers to pull the hose out.

My Recon Race fork was was OEM and because of that I couldn't extend it to 130mm as the AIR shaft is too short and had no travel adjust spacers. Otherwise it is the same product.

Bikingcatastrophe

All OSes need an anti virus if you have any concern about security

Linux does not need Antivirus as there are no viruses in "The Wild" that can harm it, it may be possible to write one but it would be very very hard to do so due to how the OS is constructed, and would most likely need the user to approve its installation using their superuser password. MS products are just full of holes, why do you think their is a multi billion dollar industry out their just to provide security for an OS that should really have its own built in from the Kernel up.

The only antivirus available for Linux is one that scans for Virus that could be a threat to a Windows machine if you shared a file with one, how secure is that!

It has a poorly designed update system
? Eh? Compared to what?

Most Linux OSes have a unified update system that provides all the updates for every piece of installed software in one place, MS does not, you can even roll back updates in Linux if you encounter problems.

+1 for Shaolin Soccer, best is the chinese subtitled version (uncut) its a naked gun type film and is quality

Its the 2 piece plastic tool you put the hose in then put it in the vise to hold it ready to hammer in the new insert, it basically stops the hose being squashed when you put it in the vise

http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126176945&SSAID=178434

I would only ever build my own PC and then install Linux on it, more stable than Windows & Mac OS, just as fast or faster, and 100% free. But I can understand it may not be suitable for specialised applications. However since switching to Linux over 2 years ago my main PC has not crashed or frozen once and it is used everyday.

Like someone said some PCs break due to manufacturers skimping on quality parts (e.g. the Power supply) MACs are no different in construction than PCs apart from standardised parts and a different BIOS chip on the motherboard. Having standardised parts also helps MAC OS be more stable than windows as you don't need as broad a range of drivers to run the hardware. A PC built to the same cost as a MAC would be at least as reliable and much likely have better componentry.

Great thanks, as it would be a real same if I couldn't use the XTs

Yeah, I've got a IS to PM adaptor but I was concerned that the caliper may not fit in the gap properly since the disc tabs are positioned on the chainstay on the slot dropout model and there are incompatability issues with some brakes (like Avid BB7s)

Sansa Clip also got a 8gb one and a 4gb one for the wife for £20 on ebay, drag and drop, great sound. However only recognises ID3 tags (not folders) so adding compilation albums can make the artist menus messy if you catch my drift.

weight otb, but I'm slow

Vanessa Phelps, end of thread.

Inside man

best heist film ever

Sounds like the chain isn't tight enough tbh. I converted a 7 spd shimano hub/chain to SS recently and had the same problem with cracking/skipping and I first thought it was a tight link. Problem was I couldn't get the chain tight enough with the downward tensioner so didn't have enough engagement on the sprocket. The chain cracked and skipped when ever I put any power down but didn't if I peddled gently. Solved it by removing the tensioner, removed a few more links and luckly managed to get an ok chain length. btw I was using a 16t sprocket.

Wow, Alot of responses thanks everyone

So I wittled it down to either a 18" or 20", looks like I need to sit on one.

My preference is a smaller frame but the last thing I want to do is buy 2 frames in a row that are too small for me.

NW Alps Jeyer aka Boz – I've sent you an email, thankyou

MrTall – Thanks for your offer also, Will you be riding Clent this weekend?

PaulGillespie – Does an 18" handle ok with a 100mm stem, and as per Tron's advice I have a 225mm steerer tube on my 100mm fork, I left it long so I can be flexible with my riding position.

Thanks KINGTUT, I've read the crap out of that page already and I'm well and truly in the overthinking phase of my frame choice :?.

See my concern with the 18" is that if I needed to go with a 90-100mm stem this might ruin the steering aspect of the handling, whereas a 20" frame might feel like a boat since I'm already used to a compact frame

StirlingCrispin, what stem length do you run, and how does the 20" handle?