Don’t do it!! Had a 3.0 sport x-type that I traded a mondeo st estate in for, worst thing I ever did, probably the most unreliable piece of junk to ever hit the roads, my old ST was quicker, handled better and was a lot better built.
I think even Jag bosses agree on how sh1t the x-type was http://www.autoblog.com/2013/09/19/jaguar-design-boss-admits-x-type-was-a-mistake/
Also the deisels are prone to issues, any savings you’ll make buying it will soon be lost when the injectors, dmf etc start playing up

Anyhow, to cut a long story short, I traded the Jag in after 6 weeks for a mk4 mondeo which felt like a luxery car after my short spell in the Jag

These might be worth a look…
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobi-v-17-portable-bike-pressure-washer/rp-prod46653

Knolly, some of the older endorphins had a few issues with swing arms but everything else they’ve made is pretty much bomb proof, I’m on my third one after owning the last two (v-tach, delirium now a chilcotin) for 3 years each and haven’t even had to replace so much as a bearing on any of them.

If you can find some, I’d definitly recommend some Sombrio Wildcard shorts, really good hard wearing and properly waterproof with decent zip pockets, had a pair for a few years now and no issues. Only minor downside is they’re a bit tight over knee pads but just about fit

I’ve only ever owned one set of fox forks, 2011 180 rcs vans with that kashima coating, they worked ok for a few rides and the performance was ok but not mind blowing, then the creaking started, after 3 new CSU’s within 18 months I got shot of them, it also seems like the issues are still going on http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/2011-fox-forks-creaking-cracking-noise-711911-post8082272.html

I’m now on a set of 2012 marzocchi 55’s the ti ones,
whilst they perform way better than the fox’s, guess what? they’ve started creaking too, they’re going back for a warranty replacement CSU once they have stock.

I’m currently under the opinion that all modern high end forks are rubbish, if you ever strip them down and see just how little is in them your just left feeling a bit ripped off

Another one here for Snowcard, made a claim whilst in Austria (medical), paid out in full with no hassles, mate’s have made claims too, all with no hassles.
Just don’t forget your e111 card, I hadn’t realised mine had expired and the transport to the hospital wasn’t covered by the insurance but would’ve been with the E111, cost me 100 euro’s in the end…

When just out sessioning dh runs and gaps, drops etc I much prefer riding with others, i reckon it’s much easier to progress when riding with people who are equal or better than me, pushing each other on, plus if theres a few of you out it’s a lot quicker when out building new trails, jumps or whatever.
If just out on the single track for a blast then i prefer being on my own and going where i want at my own pace, definitly a good way to clear the mind after work.

I weigh about 12.5st and the 10wt oil makes them feel a bit more controlled (heavier oil slows things down) particularly in the mid stroke, the oil weights a pretty personal thing, if they feel fine as they are then stick with the 7.5wt but if your not happy it’s always worth experimenting.

Mine were notchy when I first got them, couldn’t really be felt on the trail but if I pumped them when sitting their they’d feel pretty sticky.
I put it down to needing to be run in and possibly not enough oil.

The foam wiper is sometimes the cause of the notchiness as it drys fairly quickly, it’s supposed to keep things lubed but causes more problems than it’s worth when dry. marzocchi actually recommend removing them on one of there service video’s (http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Change-the-Seals-and-Fluid-of-Your-Marzocchi-44-For.html)

I also used a bit of fork grease on the seals before re-assembly and they’ve been butter ever since.

Cheers

Did mine after a few weeks riding, takes less than 30 mins for a quick oil change and is definitely not worth the £65 windwave charge.

It’s worth doing as the oil levels in mine were way down on the recommended levels from the marz website.

If your only doing the oil change you can just remove the top caps/spring leave upside down to drain the oil, you’ll need to cycle the suspension through its travel a few times to drain the oil from the cartridges, then refill with the correct amounts (I changed to 10wt, seems to work better, for me at least) and job done.

If you want to lube seals and get rid of that rubbish foam wiper then seperating the forks is no big deal, just drain as above and remove the foot nuts and then seperate, at this point you’ll realise just how simple the forks are and start wondering why they cost what they do.

Mine came without a foam wiper, so would have saved me the bother of taking the forks apart if I’d known.

Putting them back together is a bit of a ball ache as the foot nut on the cartridge side just spins the cartridge when you tighten it, I managed to get it to tighten due to the friction between the bottom of the cart and the the fork lower, being delicate is the key.

Anyhow, did this around 2 months ago and after being hammered around the forks are still super smooth, just like my old 2007 66’s