Actually there is one other thing you could do and that is try for some kind of mediation. Find a person who has some rapport with both yourselves and your neighbour and get them to mediate between the two in a semi formal session. You will also need an observer and someone to take minutes, and a written agreement at the end of it, should any agreement be reached. If nothing else you will get to air your grievances in a relatively controlled environment.

Noise insulation – this is incredibly difficult to achieve. You need to introduce more mass into the dividing wall, and preferably an air gap also. Basically some kind of cavity wall. Ideally you would actually cut the two houses apart but you will then have to build a full cavity wall up your side, losing 300mm from your house, not really practical. Alternatively you could put up on skin of blockwork on your side with a nominal 50mm air gap. You lose 150mm from the inside of your house. That will make a difference and a good architect will be able to suggest someone who can calculate the noise reduction in decibels this will achieve. I don’t know if the attic space are divided but noise “coming over the top” can be very significant so starting out with a blockwork wall in the loft could be the way to go. You will need council approval for this. Don’t waste your time with plasterboard. It’s just not heavy enough to make the difference required, well, not unless you start putting 6 layers up.

However, I note you are worried about having to admit to neighbour trouble on selling your house. Building a secondary wall is a pretty effective way of telling everyone it was bad enough to get the builders in. Perhaps not really what you want to do.

Decide whether or not you are being reasonable. Sounds like you are, but also that your partner is getting the worst of it. Go about finding out if they intend to stay or not. Perhaps even hire an investigator to find out if they have long term plans to stay or move on. Then decide if and how much you want to stay or not. If you do want to stay, then keep a diary of events for three months, then approach the Council with the whole diary AND the call the local police phone number (not 999) EVERY SINGLE TIME you are disturbed at an unreasonable time of day thereafter. Things will be utterly awful for about 6-12 months then either you will win (they will adjust their lifestyle or move) or they will win (you will move) and it will be resolved.

Or move now.

It’s the hardest thing to fix, getting people with incompatible lifestyles to understand and respect each other.

I’d also say, it is not your dream home, because of this situation. It may be a cheap mortgage but there seem to be other costs. Sometimes you have to walk away. There are other houses, villages, fields etc. The hardest part of moving is taking the first ornament of the shelf, then the spell is broken and you’re off.

Can I also say I would be reluctant to leave my partner to deal with this alone while I was away for months at a time. I’d think about getting a home posting. It would be the decent thing to do. I am sure you have tried already.

Sorry for both your upset.

I’m out. too disgusting.

bum wash. tooooo much 8O

idle fat man in dole cut to £350 a week for doing nothing shocker? i have sympathy, but not that much sympathy. nice to see him getting happier after 6 months and 18 stone lost though :-) guess he managed ok on £350.

i’d say there was a mental health issue with someone getting that fat. to ignore the signs at 20 30 40 50 stone you have to have something missing in your thought processes/upbringing/environment etc

he gets £700 a week from the government!!!! w t f ? I can’t even get £25 a week grant to help my business along…

letting the side down there dd. he’s hanging over the edge of the operating table before they whittle him down!

they had to reinforce the hospital…

he really is massive. and not a little camp. there’s a world of gags in there somewhere…

what balls.

I live in scotland, got an i7, quite happy no problems, it’s nicely made so what seems like ugliness quickly changes to ‘form follows function’ and it looks fine. GS on the other hand is very ugly.

I would have thought the bike shop would sort you out. Is the frame broken or did the bearing unscrew from the frame?

i design the “odd” mountain bike

with your grasp of physics it would be mate :wink:

climbing, running, snowboarding, writing and performing electronic music, none of which I have any time for since i started my own business. sigh.

My wife and I saw it (we called it a green flash) a short time after sunset whilst looking west out to sea from Ardnamurchan peninsula. It quite freaked us out at the time, but on doing a bit of research when we got home, realised that we had been quite lucky! It was very spectacular from our viewpoint – something I’ll never forget.

Cool! How long after the sun went down?

aren’t the norfolk broads quite good for watersports?

Welding. Phwoar. I love the smell of testosterone in the morning !

Keep away from these namby pamby learn a language/basket weaving metrosexuals. How about joining a local trail building group ?? Learn a new skill, make something proper with manly tools and you will definitely go to heaven at the end with all those karma points.

Aye that’s what chicks say they want, but then we have to do the whole “curling up on the couch with a bottle of wine and a dv frickin’ d” shizzle instead. shoot me now. the combination of death.

I thought Elton John came across as a really nice guy on the Live Aid documentary. I can’t stand his music but I expect he hates mine too :D go for it Elton. At least the kid won’t want for much.

it might help to think of it like this: the sum of the force on the saddle plus that on the pedals and the bars must always equal your body weight. this can’t change. you can move it around between the 5 points, but it’s not going to change, bar lunging about. it’s this downward force that is equal to that upward force from the tyres, passed though the shocks of the suspension, sagged.

sometimes you pull up hardon the bars to get more pedal downforce, and this causes extension of the forks. then you can get a bit of “rocking horse” as you pull up, accelerate forwards, squat the rear suspension a bit, etc etc.

Say 50-150 Newtons if you want a number depending on angle. The point is that this force is varying cyclically with crank revolutions, whereas, unless you are lunging around all over the bike, the force from your body weight is pretty constant and is already being handled in the sag of the suspension. unless you can suddenly alter your body weight, or accelerate your body around by lunging all over the bike, the system is in balance and the suspension will not compress any more or less due to body weight while just trundling along the trail. Whereas, the small but varying lateral load at the rear axle can, especially if near the resonant frequency of the system, turn into quite a noticeable bob.

WTF did my post go?

the physics police intervened… :D

punctuate? 8)

i moved the pivot point to the point where the chain meets the front chain ring and with the 11 tooth rear the anti squat reads 100.5 so virtualy no reaction to chain forces

I seem to recall saying this about three pages back 8)

al why is it different from chain tension ? chain tension string tension forgive me but I really dont see why this isnt a valid model

that’s a good enough model of chain tension.

probably not, no. the point of maximum torque is probably when you are honking out of the saddle, pulling up really hard on the bars, out over the front of the bike to push back on the pedals, after just dropping into a slightly higher gear and really flying along wearing spds. under these circumstances you can mobilise quite a lot more than your body weight onto spinning the cranks, something you cannot really do while stationary. you need the gyroscopics of the wheels to stabilise the bike against you throwing your weight around everywhere. you know when you see the tour guys really accelerating and the bike is 45 degrees over one way then the other with each pedal stroke? that’s maximum torque right there.

yes it is, thanks :-)

think you need to tighten up on your terms a little there, ho ho ho :D no pedal feedback from suspension movement perhaps…

I think you need to explain, carefully, and slowly :wink: what “90% anti-squat” means in the context of the software.

the freehub can transmit torque to the wheel only, you’re right. that’s how they work. pawls etc. but the wheel will then exert a force perpendicular to the swingarm if it’s [the wheel’s] rotation is resisted by something e.g. contact with the ground, or the brake being applied for example as this locks the cassette in rotational position relative to the swingarm.

Forget about parallel. it’s not a helpful term. think force = magnitude and direction instead. there are no shortcuts to understanding this, except computer software. basically you have to get into forces, moments and free body diagrams for various components of the assembly, from the rider to the wheel, the swingarm etc etc. This needs A level physics as a minimum I would say, not to discourage anyone or put anyone down in the slightest.

1) – chain growth
2) – when the chain is not parallel with teh line between the wheel and BB centres ( viewed from teh side) You get squat or rise depending on the angle

colinear works for me TJ but not simply parallel. parallel [but offset] will cause movement of the rear axle. take moments about the swingarm pivot – there is an unresolved moment that must be resisted by the suspension.

2) – when the chain is not parallel with teh line between the wheel and BB centres ( viewed from teh side) You get squat or rise depending on the angle

Not sure it depends on whether it’s parallel or not, it’s (Chain tension) x (Perpendicular distance from taut chain line to pivot point) that counts surely. e.g. if the chain ran straight through the pivot point then chain tension wouldn’t affect the suspension.

can you sort out your tehs. it’s driving me nuts :-)

sorry if i caused unnecessary frustration :(

I think these are two different topics – chain growth, where the action of the suspension (some systems only) causes instantaneous changes in taut chain length due to bb and rear axle moving together or apart (e.g. while coasting over rocks), and chain tension applied by the rider, causing the suspension to compress due to what Midland has posted above…. :?: these can both happen at the same time…and so interact..and it gets very complex…

we actually cam into this via a misunderstanding re:chain growth. I don’t think there is any disagreement here :D

:D I agree that there is no chain growth with a concentric bb but i think that if you tension the chain (the bit between the chainring and the rear wheel) on concentric bb pivot bike, that tension will cause the suspension to compress. its the same effect as for a vpp bike with the pivots below the bb, both times the pivots are below the line of force being applied to the rear axle, so the axle is pulled up.

As the swingarm falls the chain also unwraps from the underside of the chainring…

no clubber, the definition of chain growth is a feature of a suspension system in which the distance from the bb axle to the rear axle varies with compression/extension – it doesn’t involve the chain at all. my error.

and actually in all this consideration you can ignore the loose bit of the chain, it has no relevance at all. the only bit that matters is the taut bit from the chainring to the back wheel. I’m getting there.

got you. you are quite correct. thanks for bearing with me :-) bit of a misleading term though as it doesn’t actually involve the chain :D

…and the chain would have had to grow by approximately one quarter of the outside circumference of the chainring?

You know what concentric means, right. I don’t mean a pivot near the bb, I mean around the bb. Again, concentric means no chain growth so chain tension is irrelevant.

I do, and I don’t agree I’m afraid. No being awkward. If you draw my diagram you will see what I mean. if you put in a fixed length of chain and fixed the chainring in position you could pick the bike up and the suspension would not extend. so that pivot position will cause pedal feedback because of chain growth as the suspension extends. that’s how I understand it. rolling along is more complex than this obviously but…

I guess I don’t understand what you mean by chain growth in that case…

They form a triangle mate. The chain goes from the top of the chainring back to a point very near the rear axle, the chainstay goes from the alxle to the bb and then add a line from the bb to the top of the chainring. you get a triangle. drop the axle and you tension the chain. no?

I see your point about the rear axle driving the mass forward, but under load the majority of the mass will be concentrated on the forward pedal travelling downwards in an arc, first forward and then back. I still think this is by far the greatest force on the suspension and will not be affected by the driving force its self.

The majority of the mass is normally on the saddle. However, if you stand on the pedals what you say is true. Needs to be borne in mind though that it’s change in force that causes bobbing, and the suspension is already supporting your body weight, so simply standing on the pedals does not immediately apply more force to the suspension. It might cause that force to vary more as you lunge about, but that’s a different and problem. You can only push down on the pedal buy your own body weight plus how hard you can pull up on the bars and up on the other pedal after all.

pivot concentric to bb gives zero chain growth so should have no effect on suspension

I’m sure you have done the trials, but for a chainring & cassette setup with a swingarm pivot at the bb and the chain big ring/small sprocket for example, dropping the rear axle will tension the chain, they form a triangle. Or am I getting terms confused?

oh jesus…this could get messy 8O