I can opt out if I want though.

And you will be opted back in in 3 years as i understand it…………

Ok then, alternatives to lightroom?

Why don’t you just buy the full version ?

Awesomeist…….

That’s a cable not a hose, you might able to fudge something with a noodle or similar to get a bit of clearance, might mess the brake action up a bit though:

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/383/2909059101/bbb—veepipe-v-brake-noodle-x2.html

Or just take the barrel adjuster off and see if that helps….

Is it not easier just to move your cleats on your shoes ?

tragically1969, nice boots. I think they will be my next pair

Yeah they are, I got them as a second stiffer pair as I have the normal Maestrale as a lighter setup but they surprised me as they are a lower volume fit when they are *meant* to be exactly the same shell as the normal Maestrale.

Get yourself a plane ticket to Vegas and pay your $230 (cash only) on the door and hack all day with the best of them……

https://www.defcon.org

Or if you want to be a good guy:

https://www.blackhat.com

I sat in a very interesting cybersecurity talk a few weeks back, these might be useful bits of kit to take along to help, hackers generally rely on the social engineering way in nowadays along with a few key tools……

USB Rubber Ducky

WiFi Pineapple

http://www.instructables.com/id/USB-Keylogger/

Verbier, to hopefully get a bit more use out of these:

Cheeky, you are wrong, but if you want total proof of this and your ramblings go and connect a 380VAC supply to a delta wired motor rated at 220VAC and tell us what happens, just stand back from it when you turn it on, good luck.

And I would rather not say exactly what I do for a job but it involves a lot of 400V gear at 6300A.

OK, we did a job in Manchester where our system was put onto an Eyevis system, they are decent guys from what I remember,

Didn’t get into the nitty gritty of the control of the system, pretty sure most of their later systems are Video over CAT5 and IP based for control anyway.

@cougar I have seen the Eyevis system before, just out of interest could you tell me where the site is located you are at, I have the contact details of a guy there is you want to PM me.

The RS485 will be for the Eyevis controller to tell the screeen what to display where from its inputs.

The descent of the Col de la Morte could be decisive today, not as fast as the Allos but pretty technical

RUN ? I meant FOR….

also, can anyone digest the circuit diagram better than me and tell me which of the control circuit terminals are for switching? is it just FOR (forward) for go and and RST (reset) to stop?

Depends on how its programmed, could be use the RUN terminal closed for run, open it to stop it, RST is for resetting a fault generally

You can use whatever you want to really, just google Inverter or VSD wiring, plenty of examples to get you on your way

Its not a dual voltage motor though is it !

Or do you think it is

Sigh, that’s EXACTLY what it is, hence the nameplate states 220/380, the delta winding being 220V the star being 380V, plenty of motors are wound like this, its used by machinery manufacturers so they can make one motor/machine for different markets.

And he hasn’t bought a converter, he bought a VSD (Variable Speed Drive) which happens to take 220V single phase in and push 220V 3 phase out.

Go and have read about motors before you try spouting electrical theory again.

Cheers

I never said it did ………..fool ! I was stating the fact that 220v in a 3 phase config gives you 380v across phases.

Thanks, just have a scroll up, that’s it, keep going, there you go, see your post now ?

your motor plate states 220/380 this means phase to neutral = 220v

See that word Neutral that you used, you tell me what’s that got to do with a 3 phase motor ? Nothing, that’s what.

Just on the off chance this, its not a braked motor is it ?

Does the motor just look like a motor or is there anything else bolted to it ?

Look for a torque boost parameter, I am not convinced it should be in V/F mode either more like constant torque but without seeing the exact application its a difficult one.

your motor plate states 220/380 this means phase to neutral = 220v
phase to phase = 380v
if the output from your inverter is 220 phase to phase you do not have sufficient volts

220 x 1.732=380 (root 3 x 220)

Utter tosh, its a 3 phase motor hence the voltage is quoted in 3 phase, the Neutral doesn’t even figure in it.

I rode the Etape du Dales this year and it was frightening watching some people descending and the lack of control they had, the common denominator seemed to be a small saddle to stem drop, as above, more weight on the front, or if you have check your headset, as above too….

Megger, generic term for insulation resistance, put 500/1000V down the windings to check for resistance, or lack of it to earth, but you probably haven’t got one of those then by the sounds of it……

If the motor runs its unlikely to be that to be fair, could be that the motor is in fact shot, or you haven’t setup the inverter correctly, pretty hard to tell from behind a keyboard to be fair.

NOTE: Disconnect motor from inverter before doing this !!!

As above, there should be nothing in the circuit between the motor and the inverter, they don’t like being open circuit, just wire a start/stop button to the run input on the inverter if you want to stop it.

Have you checked to see that all the windings are correct, i.e same resistance and meggered them to earth to check if the insulation is still good ?

looking at the drawing on the Ebay page it may be a switched output, have you checked it is set up to output to voltage you require?

I’m looking at the KA,KB & FC, FA & FB switch set up.

They are outputs for signalling.

Motor is wired delta for sure, just check that the pairs are to the correct terminals, the black wires coming from the windings should be marked.

Power factor.

Can you post a picture of the terminal box wiring ?

What’s the motor driving ?

Sounds like you have the drive in the wrong mode, needs to be constant torque, it may be in V/F at the moment which will limit torque at low frequency (assuming you have a ramp accelerate program set in it)

Edit: Ignore all that, just read its a saw you are driving

Check and double check parameters !!

I insured mine with Just Kampers Insurance (HIC) was a Kombi then converted to camper, no issues at all.

Climbed from the South and descended into Briancon, worst day ever on a bike…

Yep, as I say, **** awful, majestic scenery, crap road, must be about 20 mile of uphill crazy caravan, lorry, french driver dodging hell…….

If you have a car drive to Briancon and do the classic Izoard route from there, you will thank me in the end.

sorry no, what I meant was it was weird that to pass kit requirements you essentially need the bug mesh. That seems to be the only reason my tent may not pass requirements. Not that I expected a 100% mesh inner. got to admit never seen a tent with that. They all have a groundsheet sewn in usually.

:roll: No, you need a sewn in groundsheet, as above, its to stop people using tarps and other weird things that you would freeze in on a bad night, bearing in mind the rest of your kit is lightweight.

I did the RAB when it was in Martindale a while back, it dropped to a few minus in the night, there was lots of very cold people in the morning, me included, I wouldn’t have wanted to be under a tarp

So basically sewn in groundsheet means it needs to be connected to something (inner or outer – opinion seems to differ), even if it is only bit of meshing which stops you getting munched buy small critters. Yep still find that a bit weird.

No opinions differing here I don’t think ?

Not many tents out there with 100% mesh inners, mesh is normally only used for ventilation panels.

Which MM is it that you are doing ?

If you got kit checked with that one in the photo you wouldn’t be starting, or event worse if you got checked at finish then you would be DQ.

As above, sewn in groundsheet means sewn to the outer (single skin) or the inner as per the Terra Nova and 99.9% of most modern tents.

Changes to the Marmotte route also for anyone doing it…

It looks pretty tough now, Glandon, Lachette de Vernier, Col Du Mollard, Croix de Fer and the Alpe at the end *shudder*

13thfloormonk

Izoard from anywhere other than Briancon would be awful, the Lautaret is souless from Briancon side and busy as hell climbing the other side (best only in decent from Galiber to Bourg)

I put a k-edge top cap mount on my new bike, much neater solution.

I can’t help thinking that would look awful with the computer mounted……

The Superstar ones are good value, got two of them, no issues.

No, they don’t all come with hardshell, he’s right, you are wrong.

I was stood on the top of helvelen at 2am on Saturday, I also summited 10 other Wainwrights between 10:50 and 3:25

Not quite sure how that is relevant to the discussion but on BG support by any chance ?

It all seems to be packed with fat/sugar salt etc.

Apart from the no added sugar and salt ones…. :roll:

excitable1

That said, both Striding Edge and Swirral Edge are not easy walks and the penalty for failure is could possibly be death if you fall at the wrong place

FTFY

I wouldn’t bother with the white card

Depending on the main contractor you can’t even get on the induction to get on the site to prove your worth in the first place without one, unless of course your are employed by the main contractor…….

Is that some sort of weird HDR effect on the car shots, i guess its a love or hate on that sort of effect though…….hate here, sorry !!

Construction industry scam. That’s all.

Yep, that pretty much sums it up, the H&S test for the white card is pathetic.

He can get the white but just wants to know who will sign his application if he’s not working

Unfortunately only they will be able to answer that, and based on the amount of trouble the QHSE guys at our place have dealing with them i don’t expect a straight answer will be easy to get……