make sure you ask for the clip, its an extra…

Ok I'll announce my bias, I have some rented houses and have been a landlord for nearly 10 years now. Let me tell you that I am the kind of guy who likes to sleep well at night. So my houses are all up to spec legally/safety etc. I am careful not to cross any lines as tenants rights are pretty well enshrined and landlords go to prison for what some would consider to to be just behaviour..

He has to repeatedly enter your house/room and at wierd times or do funny things, despite you telling him not to, for it to be something you can act on. Just once is not enough. There isn't any way of enforcing that aspect of your contract unless he starts taking the p*ss..

In any case if you are on a shared/joint assured shorthold tenancy and he knocked on the front door, and someone someone else let him in, then its not a breach of anything, he can then go anywhere in the house..

If its a HMO or you are on a single contract for your room then he can enter the shared areas with no notice whatsoever, and then has to ask about each room.

Having said that if its annoying you then write to him telling him you value your privacy and he needs to give you notice if he wants to come in again.

Mine are shared AST. I frequently rock up at any of my houses and knock on the door asking if I can come in as I want to see/have a chat fix something. Perfectly ok if the tenant agrees to let me in.

Sometimes (not in recent memory) a tenant will say no you cant come in.That's their right, so I cannot come. I go home print a letter and come round 24 hrs or so later.

Mostly my tenants are pleased to see me as they want a shelf putting up, help setting up their broadband router or some small thing fixed.

The only time a tenant stopped me from entering a property/ room was years ago when a girl in one room was selling sex and drugs (duuno about the rock and roll).

I personally would start to be very suspicous if a tenant made a point of making me give notice, and would probably start carrying out weekly inspections with 24 hrs notice at 8am…

But what most landlords and tenants don't realise is that if you explicitly do not give your consent, they cannot actually enter a house against your will. despite 24 hrs notice. So if I give you notice and you write back saying no, then I cant enter the property. Thats an extreme example because if you repeatedly refused access to a landlord who isn't misbehaving, he can quickly get a court order to enter the property to inspect etc…

Ok next to the bikes. I effing hate bikes in my houses (despite what I do at home). my houses are well painted and have nice floors and bikes lead to damage and dirt. You may well be captain clean, and maybe you could persuade me to let you keep them in there, but I would be taking regular fotos to document any damage/mess, bike related would not pass as wear and tear.

But again this is really about lack of knowledge or how ballsy you are, because unless your landlord can prove that you are damaging your property then there is eff all he can do about it. Apart from giving you legit notice to move out when your contract ends etc..

If you are damaging the property (needs to be badly, but this is unlikely) then he can have you evicted and chase you for remedial works and maybe loss of rent.

My advice would be to either sort out some outside storage, maybe you can persuade the landlord to do something about it, but he doesn't have to. He would be a fool not to, I have bike rings on the outer walls so people don't have an excuse to bring their bikes indoors.

Or you could just front him out and carry on doing it, like I said he can really do much about it, as long as you pay the rent and keep your end up he would be a fool to evict you if you dont give him too much hassle otherwise. I like a quiet life me, I would try and use landlord speak to get you to keep the bikes elsewhere, but if your good otherwise I have to accept it and just sting the living daylights out of you to put things right from your deposit at the end. ..

sorry for the ramble, I'm a bottle and half of vino into friday night. email in profile if you want more advice. I will happily chat on the fone..

dont hold your breath crc has a major backlog, I ordered a frame on weds, they haven't dispatched it yet…

Ok here is the tool, left to right starting at the top:
1)new bearing tool for pushing in new bearings. Smaller dia of this is near 24mm so that the enduro bearing sits nicely on it.
2) Cup holder. use your imagination..
3) old bearing extract tool.

bottom left to right
4) clip thingy only needed if you have a 25mm id bearing and bb cup like 5) below
5) race face bb cup, inner dia of cup is close to 24mm so the edge of the bearing is nearly hidden. so use a small screwdriver and hammer to shift the bearing enough to get the clip in there, then put the cup in the cp holder and using the extractor tool and rubber mallet push on the clip and bearing pops out..
6) is an fsa mega exo bb with a much larger bb cup inner dia so you can see lots of bearing inner edge, so just use the extractor part , with cup in the holder and rubber mallet application.

next foto is an angled shot of the bearing cups to show the difference, you can clearly see the raceface cup on the left where the bearing id is really close to the cup id which makes pushing it out a bit tough until there is a big enough gap to get the clip in. FSA one will be a dream…dunno what shimano or other cups look like maybe someone could post piccies?

I've had acouple o shandies so spelling and syntax might be wide of the mark.

neilforrow
– mine arrived this morning. It doesn't have the collet thing to get in behind any bearings the have the same id as the bearing cup inner id.But betd supplied me with a little clip that kind of helps, but I needed to use a screwdriver and hammer to make a gap between the bearing and cup, just pushed the bearing out by 0.5 mm or so and then the clip fitted in behind fine, then using the press tool on the clip a quick bump with the rubber mallet and the old bearing popped out. Fitting new bearings went easy. I'll post some picks when I get home tonight.

Hora got some info for you, email in profile..

Ian Munro – Member

There do seem to be odd double standards though. Plenty of disease is spread by hand contact, but people don't seem too worried by bare hands.

+1 for Mr Munro, you don't wipe your arse with your feet…

My brother had this and used a cheap ultrasonic massager. I think DX have them but there are loads on filthbay – you will need lots of KY or medical lubricant.

I've got a soft bag, its a crc branded one from about 3 years ago, its got a hard base with wheels, massive inner pockets and wheelbags. Whilst I like it, every time I've been to to the alps (4x by plane) my mates have all had cardboard boxes and my experience was no better than theirs… Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't buy a bag, a box is fine.

I think having a bag makes you feel like an international jet setter, and that was probably the desire for me that pushed the bike bag purchase.

we got great custom tops at owayo.com

If the wood sealing isnt done properly it goes tacky, I've used liberon floor sealer on wooden worktops, top quality.

I feel like a young un I think its exactly 20 years

1990 specialized rockhopper
1992 specialazed rockhopper (still got it)
1999 Specialized FSR thing (looked like a flying Y uggghhh)
2002 Giant XTC NRS
2006 Santa Cruz Bullit
2008 Orange P7 Pro
2008 On One inbred using the P7 pro as a donor
2010 Mountain Cycles Battery awaiting delivery..

banjowhacker – Premier Member

Heat them to 200 degrees and you will lose a good deal of the yield strength. Don't do it kids.

Really? You can safely powdercoat 6061 t6, which means heating it up to 200 degrees for an hour or less. In order to help pop some bearings i would have thought they'd only need to be in an oven for 5-10 mins. Sounds messy though with all that plastic and grease…

Banjowhacker I would prefer to say that you cant safely powder coat 6061 T6, see this thread. If you want to know more send me an email address in profile. I think your right about the mess though, hadn't thought of that…

I did a little search and found this topic has been covered bb facing thread. I guess like everything else its down to personal choice, I think BB facing is a waste of time and money, some other people thinks it isn't.

Renko do you feel like you know any more than you did when you posted this?

I duuno which alloy the KTM engine casings are made of so I can't comment, but I know that some shimano cups are 6061 t6 and some raceface ones are 7050 T736. Heat them to 200 degrees and you will lose a good deal of the yield strength. Don't do it kids.

59 times the pain – Member

Dont bother facing it, its a waste of time and money

I've often thought this must be true, if the bb shell is threaded the bb will go in axial to the thread and no amount of facing will change that. The other reason cited for facing is to do with spacing, but if you face it there is no fixed width that the bb facing tool goes to so the spacing will be out anyway. Then after painting if you face it again then its even further away from the "ideal" spacing..

I've used this guy http://del-cals.co.uk/ for santa cruz bullit ones, he is very busy and can take a while to reply but the quality is awesome. Look for del on http://www.radbmx.co.uk.

Yeah I've got the 3 x stainless drawers one. Its about 4 years old, still goign strong, like it, when I finally do my kitchen we are thinking of doing the whole thing with these.. maybe.

I like ikea kitchens as a good as any normal brand. I've seen a howdens one fitted in my mates student house, utter rubbish and very expensive, he is an ikeaophile and regrets moving away from them.

BETD also do a little extra clip that catches the inside edge of some bearings which are harder to get access to – like raceface. Of course my experience on this is theoretical, I've just ordered the tool today and haven't used it.

BTW as turneround mentioned if you order 5x set of enduro bearings then they will give you tool for free. Which is what I've just done so potentially I'm gonna ruin 5 sets of cranks if the bearings seize :D

I'm not overly worried about the bearings seizing problem :

1) Keep an eye on them check for play etc..
2) I'm fairly sure the plastic sleeve is made from a glass fibre/partice reinforced polyamide such as grivory, this is about the only injection moulding polymer with enough stiffness to do the job. These glass reinforced polyamides are abrasive as hell, injection mould tools do not last long when using this stuff. So if it does seize then it might do just as bad a wear job on your crank. My raceface ones which failed quickly polished the living daylights out of the crank arm so I'm not sure.

Lets find out what happens…

BETD also have a tool similar to that.

A quick squizz at the phil wood website shows that they do replacement top hats too.

Sideways tim are you going to start stocking the top hats and the phil wood tool?

Guess what I looked on crc for the new pace BB – this close up shows a lovely enduro bearing in place pace rc80

I looked for the plastic spacers too, no joy.

I think the crank wearing thing could be a non issue.. I mean spacers are not present on any other cartridge bearing installation – like hubs.

Personally I've got shimano hollow tech on my FS that have lasted 3 years so far and had race face on my HT that failed in 3 months. Just about to fit the enduro ones so I'll tell you how long they last..

enduro supply spacers with each bearing kit to suit.

clicky

wwaswas – Premier Member

toys19 – yes, the idea is if the bearings seize that the crank isn't knackered too.

Shock horror shimano acts to save punters money!

I've driven and older subaru Forrester petrol, thirsty but mental good fun and very useful. Its on my lottery winner list..

cookeaa is right google or ebay search 6805 2rs (also known as 61805) the bearings are 25 X 37 x 7 , better off with rubber seals on both sides. The only problem is that shimano/raceface/fsa and others use the 0.5 mm plastic spacer which is dead easy to break on removal. The crankshaft is 24mm so the 0.5 mm spacer takes it up to 25 to suit the bearing. I have thought about why shimano did this, why didnt they make a 25mm crankshaft? I cant convince myself if its sensible or not. Maybe its becuase the plastic wears out before the crankshaft so its just new bb on bearing failure rather than new crankset – and its a lighter shaft, maybe they didn't want to commission a new bearing size just to suit their needs. Or maybe they are just mad..

Enduro bearing is 24 x 37 x 7 bearing so no spacer, and there is no bearing number for this (at least not that I can find) its some kind of speciall that norm,al bearing suppleirs cannot get. But a pair are on BETD for 20 smokes. I think the hope and pace ones use a 24 id bearing like enduro and maybe phill wood, but I'm not sure.

I wonder if the walking thing is a way of measuring fitness without the risk of inducing heart attack. Ever done a bleep test? Pain…

Northwind – Member

Yup. Though the person in question did stop short of telling Orange they should stop refinishing their bikes with powdercoat

Ohh I'll get my handbag warmed up.

I had an appointment with the fortune teller yesterday.

It was cancelled due to unforseen circumstances.

I've got older bullit, the last of the old ones 2006.

fox van r 36. Its no good believing anything I say, I'm deeply in love with my bullit…

jonb – Member

Think mines about £250 but then I looked at bike cover and that was nearly £80 per bike and I've got 7 in my garage between me and my GF.
Ahh I take it you are not with m&s? you dont need to specify bikes, which I think is why the OP is considering them…

400 for me, but Ive got all the bells n whistles like dt178. single article value of 4k? inc bikes? bargain.

I've got a bullit, its fine for everything, you just have to work harder when it comes to xc. my frame with fth element coil shock weighs 9.5 lbs. Its an excellent climber, and going down is like a magic carpet, personally if it was one bike only this would be it. In the uk if you re at all interested in going down, you need something that can go up. The bullit is it. When it gets to the alps its the best thing next to a full dh rig.
EDIT: The heckler comes down more on the xc side than the bullit, but we re talking shades of grey, if you feel that you need to let out your inner hooligan, then buy a bullit, if you are a tadge more reserved, buy a feckler.

imho stw isn't the place to find much positive about bike like the bullit or the feckler..

James-o is bang on – all steel grades have the same stiffness.
Its just at what point they fail that differs – but importantly failure also affects fatigue performance and this is the real issue with frame design,a dn is the problem everyone is grappling with when it comes to CEN testing.

Another important issue is change of properties due to welding…

It is worth noting that here is no difference between reynolds tubing and other high grade steels of the same composition and thermomechanical history, they all fall under standard AMS or BS-EN grades, the sticker just makes you feel that you've got something special..

This Brand effect has less of an effect with aluminium as they have sexier sounding names already (like 6061 T6) although easton have tried to make theirs a bit more special but really they just use various grades of 6000 or 7000 series alloys.

If there is a better way then show me, happy days if I can turn off flash on stw and still listen to iplayer..

its defo flash for me – if I turn flash off the site runs fine, the problem is then that I cant listen to radio 4 in the background as that needs flash for the iplayer to work..

Captainflashheart, didnt realise you were responsible for all flash? I thought it was just the hearty kind?

also less flash, slows everything down, nearly as bad as bikeradar. If I open 5 tabs in firefox all on stw then my superfast machine locks up..

sort threads by last posted as suggested first is a great idea, I also really like a list of stw users recommendations… We should solve that democratically by a poll.

Have a look at http://www.radbmx.co.uk. Their site is mega user friendly and has all of the suggestions listed. I know a few users on here are on there too.

Only use 3m helicopter tape, not had any yellowing here, its excellent stuff.