It takes a bunch of engineers to overcomplicate things this is a simple answer.

Lets define:
UTS = the uts from the table above (depends on which material)
TS = the tensile stress calculated in the example at the top
FOS is factor of safety.

FOS = UTS/TS

so the factor of safety in tensile using copper its 220/13.8 =15.94 so your FOS is 15.94 near as dammit 16..

Normally for shear you have a USS ultimate shear strength, but you can approxmiate USS from UTS but its material dependent.

Ok you can resolve using von mises etc but I think this is a bit advanced for what is going on here…

It just comes down to what is in the contract, if the contract states the deposits is only for damage then its only for damage, but if your contact states that it can be used to cover unpaid rent at the end of the tenancy then you can keep it. I guess that covers your

Deposits cannot be used to cover unpaid rent unless the tennant requests that this happen…

as the tenant in signing the contract has agreed that this can happen. I haven't seen an AST recently that does not state this. Have a look at this (cue- loads of laywer types telling me this clause is illegal and unenforceable but it worked fine last year with mydeposits.com)

Helios – Member

Whoooo there… Hang on a second… What is all this about giving up your deposit? It is illegal for him to hang onto it for anything except damage against the property/fixtures/fittings… It is not there to cover rent foregone if you end the tenancy or stop paying rent…

you deposit has to be covered by the protection scheme which means you get independent adjudication if you're not happy with him hanging onto any of your deposit…

I think this is an urban myth I kept some deposit last year through my TDS in lieu of unpaid rent..

More importantly is the OP's deposit in a TDS if not then he is in gravy I think.
That's the juicy bit I am waiting to here back about.

Rik – if the OP isn't interested I am – YGM

I have an ast here I will give anyone for free.

Ohh yeah I've had a really nice pheasant terrine, good idea.

Skin em, wrap them in bacon, lashings of butter, stuff with home made sage and onion wrap in foil and roast for about 45 mins. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

He has decided to have a go at fixing it himself: clicky

For a grand there are numerous usable weapons out there.

My mate bought a 2005 sc bullit with 66's, hayes (ok not great but ok with 203's), hone cranks, x7/x9, mavics on hopes etc for £800. Went like a dream in morzine this year.

midlifecrashes. Cheers, otherwise I've been doing it wrong all these years..

I was out in morzine 2 years ago on my bullit and I got overtaken on pleney by a guy on a jump bike with rigid forks..

If you've got the wedge, get a dh bike , I've got 2. I'm still slow and crap though.

Do you need one? My first morzine experience was in 2005 on a 5 year old giant nrs with 3.5 inches travel, I discovered that my skinny xc tyres were rubbish and fitted the biggest tyres my frame could take (2.35's wahey) and had the time of my life.

I reckon you'll be fine on the sc, use the experience to fuel your upgrading mission. If you want to spend any money buy 2x 203mm discs and adaptors to up your braking. Cheap and effective. Brakes are everything out there.

midlifecrashes – Member
In the instance where a tenant wants to stay on beyond the initial period, and the landlord insists on a fresh agreement, then provided notice is given before the last month of the initial period, the landlord may ask the tenant to go.

I am 100% confident that the landlord has to give 2 months notice whatever the conditions, so if he wants you to leave at 6 months he has to let you know on or before the end of the 4th month. Correct me please as this would be a nice to know, although its contrary to everything I have ever understood about notice..

TandemJeremy – Member

Vinny – the 12 month renewal is one and the lack of notice period. My understanding is that neither of these two things can be in a legal AST

My understanding of this is that you do not have to state the notice thing, its enshrined in the relevant housing act (I think its part 3 1996).

Another way of looking at this is that if you move into a house and the landlord gives you no contract then you are automatically on an ast – 6 months 2 months notice from the landlord at 6 months and 1 months notice from you..

The 12 month renewal thing is a bit out of my experience as I don't do this. He cannot force you to renew that is a fact, maybe if you could prove that he forced you to renew then this might be a get out, do you have any letters from him stating 6/12 months or nothing?

The CAG forums are brilliant for this there are loads of lawyers on there who give good advice. I learnt a lot there, but I am now a member of a landlords assoc who provide all my legal guidance..

I'm a landlord and I know this lot backwards having effed it up a few times in the past to learn my lessons.

Most of what is said above is correct.

1) If you are tied in till june then leaving now will make you liable for void and re-advertising costs, but he has to make reasonable steps to re advertise, he cant just sit back until june and think that the rents gonna be paid, judges do not go for this. In fact if he did that he might run the risk of getting nothing.

2) You say choice was 6 or 12 months – not true, you could have just not signed and then it would be a monthly rolling contract – where he has to give you 2 months notice on an anniversary of the rent day, and you have to give one month whenever you like.

3) Deposit scheme are you in one? There are numerous things he could have effed up here which might give you some leverage.

4) Invalid lease? Hmm that's tougher, (ie I don't know much about this bit) there might be all kinds of crap in there that is invalid, but in fact most silly clauses (like no bikes in your bedroom) are unenforceable anyway, really an AST is just a restating of the existing law and your rights, and these things are inalienable.

My advice is to stop paying your rent and give the guy 1 months notice and tell him to start advertising pronto as you are defo leaving. On the day you move out hand the keys back and hand in a surrender of tenancy form (I can send you one of these) so then its formalised from your side that you are leaving. He then has to take proper steps to re-rent. In the mean time lets discuss the deposit scheme thing hopefully he has messed that up which will be a nice payday for you if he has. Do not tell him where you are moving to.

The truth is you could build it for a lot less than Brants figures – those tubes are expensive because they are designed for diy/home builders. The interest and numbers some of you are talking about here means you could consider doing this from the ground up and not buying an airfix kit bike.

Anything from 0.8mm to 1.5 but I'm not suggesting they make their bike out of exhaust tube, only using the kit they would have. A mandrel bender is a mandrel bender – its all about the mandrel tool, which your average exhaust outfit would not have, they would have to buy tools if they want to bend it. With a tool at 1-3k and a cnc bending machine at 30k plus, if you have an idle cnc machine, a tool to bend bike frame material isn't such a big investment. (actually there are some cheaper mandrel benders which might suit a bike outfit, I cant remember the name of the company but I'll dig it out.) Anyway I think maybe you would only need bending kit to do the seat and chainstays which is smaller dia. Brant why don't you get involved this is a great idea..

If you havent got a shoulder that's yer problem. Disc bolts with shoulder look like this, see the little shoulder between the threaded bit and the bolt head. They are available here : crc:

Its true that in my industry (engineering) lots of work that was only economical to have made in china, taiwan, or the ex eastern block is now becoming viable in the UK again. Inflation out there plus more and more unemployed workers here means that this is defo considerable. And its about as patriotic and cool as you can get, I applaud your thoughts.

Talk to these people Engineering Industry Authority they can put out a request for tenders amongst lots of talented UK manufacturers. There are lots of auto parts manufacturers (especially exhausts) out there who could easily turn there hand to this – typical UK exhaust manufacturer would have cnc tube bender, tube cutting, welding and C frame presses for tube forming. If you want to talk to me offline I could help you define the right grade steels and I know a bit about welding.

You cant take peoples stuff in respect of debt without a court order that you actually owe the money. Baliffs cannot just walk in without a court order.

I dunno about books, I reckon if you search on here or other bike forums you will find most of the stuff you will have to deal with has already been answered. Although a quick search didn't find this problem but maybe a deeper look would find it. Otherwise just ask, plenty of armchair experts here..

I think what the others above said about the hub being the problem may well be a place to look. Whilst I would be pretty surprised if the hub was bent/warped. Its possible the mount holes are off (or threads as I mentioned above) or just sloppy so the disc does not centralise.

If you were in Exeter I would happily take a look at it for you..

Photos would defo help, I have had juicy 7's and currently have juicy 5's none of my avid discs overlap onto the spokes.

I do find that a little caliper service is required once in a while, including bleeding – do you have a bleed kit?

Basically what imp999 said but I find it easier to push the pistons back whilst the bleed screw is open, so I tend to do that operation as part of a bleed.

Discs

The disc off centre thing sounds a bit interesting. If you are sure the disc isn't warped then:

1) Discs: try removing the disc, and clean the mounting surfaces and edges thoroughly, check the back of the discs where they make contact and clean them too. Check the bolt holes in the discs make sure they are clear, check the bolts make sure they are not bent or have any lumps on them.

2) Hubs: clean as above and check the threaded holes in the hub, ensure the bolts go in straight and none of your threads are threaded or drunken. If there is a problem you can get an engineering shop to retap and maybe helicoil.

3) Fit the discs. Make sure you do the discs bolts up in small steps, in an opposite pattern, so start at the top (12 oclock), then to the opposite at the bottom (6 oclock), move around clockwise from the top to the 2 oclock, then 8 oclock, then move to 4 oclock and then do 10 oclock, repeat each one gently until all are tight.

If its still off centre then check the gap between the inside edge of the disc and the hub using feeler guages, if there is any gap then measure each gap and make sure its the same.

Caliper

1) Remove the wheel and pads, make sure the inner area of the caliper is clean, i use a baby teat brush, small wire thing with plastic bristles, and washing up liquid warm water.

2) Apply some b lube like imp999 said, attach bleed syringe to caliper and then push caliper all the way back in, put the caliper bleed block in and do the bleed thing.

3) Put in brake pads (and the all important pad separator spring_, and wheel with disc.

4) The caliper should be self aligning but I find that the little cones on the bolts can sieze up, so strip the bolts off, clean and apply a little lube, grease or small amount of oil to allow them to move freely until they have been tightened up.

5) Then with the reassembled lubed caliper go through the alignment procedure as described above by the venerable imp999.

Please do send fotos so we can see if there is anything obvious..

Whilst what Olly says may well be true, I've personally never had a pulsating problem with avids, I have the juicy 5s on my inbred and they feel great, a juicy 7 on my bullit was great until I decided to up the anti with some avid codes which are also great so far. I'm sure its one to watch out for but I dunno if changing the brakes rather than solving the problem would suit your budget..

Olly – Member

you could avoid one way air fairs by seeing if you could buy an ex hire one once your over there?

For my personal slightly pessimistic outlook I can see a multitude of problems, there are just too many unknowns. If you buy out there and discover its knackered and hard to fix you can ram it down the throat of the shop you bought it off. Or you might arrive the week after the head the great morzine 2nd hand bike sale and all the bikes are gone. Also How are you going to sell it back again, or do you bring it home? The tactic to getting a good price when you buy or sell is to bide your time, you wont have much of that on tap on holiday.

As a do it myself kinda guy I would buy a couple of months before and make sure all was well and get it set up to suit me to prevent any last minute problems ruining my 365day longed for trip whilst fixing up an unfamiliar bike/waiting for parts/dealing with gallic nonchalance/trying to find a correct length stem to suit your odd shaped body..

Not that I dont think bike shops are great because lots of them are but: If you are posting on a helpful forum such as this, why not ask peeps for help fixing your problems? I'll bet half of what's wrong will be meat and taters to most of the guys on here. Save the money and spend it on tools, and get a good warm glow when it all works.

Come on what's up with it? Break it down into steps/problems..

I'd say 2nd hand too, hire is 100-150 a day euros for anything semi decent..
Dont forget to factor in the airline expense for carrying your bike when you do your sums.

akira – Member

That guy must be a millionaire……

I thought the same thing, but its disappointing to see that his kitchen is pretty small and old and in general he does not have the trappings of a rich man. Make it all seem pointless really..

+1 on the ikea had 3 myself in my slum landlord role, and one of my landlord mates with 35 houses prefers ikea over howdens for quality, but howdnes is nearby so can sometimes be useful.

I fitted a howdens one to one of my houses last year – doesnt seem as good as ikea and already I've got doors falling apart problems..

The yawn with ikea is that you have to go there and collect, might not be near to you…

Like the yeti and love the pace forks, like all the cotic stuff, except the hemlock – ugghhh

Alex – Premier Member

I've given up trying to justify bikes or apply logic to what I have. I'm resigned to just trying to enjoy the journey

It's a disease called BAS bicycle acquisition syndrome. I have got it nearly as bad some others on here.

1) Small SC bullit with massive front forks and huge brakes fro big bumps and gravity and jumping ..

2) Medium SC bullit with carbon triple cranks carbon forks light wheels for very bumpy xc.

3) Mountian Cycles Battery with massive forks and massive brakes for the same as the SC bullit – why I need two bikes for one job I dont know..

4) 456 for longer xc

5) 1992 Spesh Rockhopper – the commuting/towing vehicle baby seat and trailer mudguards lights.

6) Pinarrello road bike (steel)

7) We the People Unfied Cruiser for dreaming about being better at jumping.

8 ) Robinson Ruckus BMX

9) Falcon Racer converted to fixed (work in progress)

10) Motebecane 60s racer – why, just looks nice.

HAve sold all my old school bmx's jsut to stop things from being excessive..

Have you tried it with a different wheel? Maybe the wheel spindle is bent..

Yup I've heard bob jacksons is good, should be able to do it, if not any car place with laser chassis alignment might well have a good go. With inbreds being pretty cheap and all, I could see you spending nearly as much as a new frame, I'd be tempted to get a big scaffold bar and have a go myself..

I have a 661 from crc for 50 smokes, bought it for last years alps session. Do not regret it in any way.

+ve effects: Protected my head and face on multiple times. Its white so I didn't get hot, the whiteness made me easier to pick out at a distance so my mates new when they had finally got rid of me. Was very comfortable after the third time of sending various models back to CRC. Very light, didnt notice it.

-ve effects: Made me feel less vulnerable so I was more mental than usual contributing to more crashes.(although secretly that's a positive but I am trying to to be sensible and PC, this is STW after all). Made a bigger dent in my wallet than my previous lid.

hungry monkey – Premier Member

Cycling at anywhere past -10 (plus wind-chill) would probably make at least 10-15% extra sag

[pedant]wind chill won't make a difference to an inanimate object once it is down at the ambient temperature[/pedant]

(sorry, got an exam on weather and winds tomorrow…)

Hungry Monkey You'll do all right in that exam.

I think the others may have something in the stiff seals too. I wonder how much work any of the bike companies have put in to the effects of low temperature on bikes and components..

Air contracts about 8% by volume from 20c to 0c, so your sag, if only dependant on air, would drop by 8%. I honestly don't think I would notice this.

The damping will also feel a bit sluggish, but only for a while as I would expect the oil to soon warm up as the shock operates, as will the air so I think you should get your sag back. Its worth knowing that the air spring provides some damping too..

bassspine – Member

Graham S -1. Open Office beats MSOrifice by a long chalk.
+1 for basspine another minus one for graham s.

I use open office daily at work, I write quote, invoices, reports do complex engineering spreadsheets, create presentations manage projects and generally do anything MS Orifice can do but for free and with a smug geeky look on my face. It will take a day or two to shake the MSoffice feeling out of your system and then you'll be an open source convert.

BTW I use gimp instead of photoshop, in fact loads of my software is open source as my main work machine runs on linux.

pot noodles are a highly nutritious snack..

I dunno but i want van 36 tapered or 1.5 forks, where have you seen them cheap?

I think its about attention seeking…

Five is no 1 for me.

used revill on airport ind est. ask for matt. did my bullit 60 quid black 2pak. does loads of bikes..

jules.b, I'm new here, i take it you are a member of the constabulary? I would be keen on installing those babies in my houses. Are they really that good?

I had to rebuild the garden wall on one of my houses which was the one with the bike ring on it, lo and effing behold they nicked this girls bike while it didn't have anything to lock to. Muggins here forked out for a new bike for her, lucky it was only a 129.99 halfords POS..

dave_rudabar – Member

So just buy some of those big bike covers to zip them up into, or as has been suggested before on here, get some king-size mattress plastic covers and use them for the same purpose – then they won't damage anything.

And then he cant really do anything about it apart from giving you legal notice to quit when your contract ends. Just make sure you don't leave tyre marks on the walls when you bring your bike in and out so he cant raid your deposit. Take loads of detailed fotos – use a newspaper in shot to date them.

Also are you on the tenancy deposit scheme?