Can also get quite reasonable water resistant OSB – much cheaper than ply, and strong enough. Not as nice looking though, but that’s not important if you’re going to carpet/cover/paint what you’re making.

If you could get screw-down versions of these[/url] then they might help to hold things together. Could also perhaps rout out a larger area of the top of the failed worktop and inset a nice wooden clopping block.

There’s rumours of a 4 being available quite soon, hence the recent price drops on 3+ . . . more here

Might be able to find a solution here[/url] – used to know someone who worked there and as I remember it the company were quite helpful with advice about design solutions.

There’s bound to be a bit of variance on the timings – down to things like how much heating is needed to get the incoming water up to the set temperature, how big the load is (which will alter the water volume in most modern washers), and whether it has to rebalance the load before it spins up to maximum speed.

A tradesman’s request for cash payment and an unwillingness to provide an invoice might also be an indication of someone who is working without appropriate business/third party liability insurance . . . good luck with trying to get them to fix a fault/problem now or at some time down the line.

Might be worth getting yourself an appropriate First Aid qualification; always a useful skill to have anyway, but even more so if you’re looking after (guiding) others in remote locations.

If you want a simple custom made-to-size bag then try talking to someone like this[/url] – they might be able to make something to your exact specification.

Does all the lose render need to be removed from the wall in the first pic, or just render over it? I’m concerned that by removing the render I’m going to be left with an unstable wall.

If the render is so loose that its dropping off then its not providing any significant support now, and the wall is still standing . . .

I’ve got one of these and it’s proven to be very capable – a bit over your budget though at about £70.

These people are advertising some very good deals on Mountain Equipment down jackets but it looks like they don’t have much stock – might be worth giving them a call. Bought an ME Annapurna jacket from them a couple of years ago and the price was excellent; service was good too, with prompt delivery.

Bahco user here – much nicer in the hand than Halfords stuff, and can get sets which are 100% metric so you’re not wasting money on imperial sizes you’ll never use. An S910 set of sockets and spanners can be had for about £116 if you shop carefully, and is a steal at that price (list is nudging £300).

They had at least a dozen in Tesco Roborough (Plymouth) at 8 this morning.

Thanks – very good deal :D.
They also have a good price on Samsung Tab 3 7″ @ £79

File > Options > Display > Printing options, then tick the “Print background colours and images” box

Worth having a look at a Brooks Cambium; have been clocking up the miles on mine for a month or so, and am sitting very comfortably 😀

They still use 1kW of electricity to generate 1kW of heat; all they supposedly do is allow you to control the heating/cooling cycle in a different way.

Previous generation Mercedes A Class ? – I ran an A170 diesel for 12 years / 100k miles and had absolutely no problems with it – very good on its tyres, two sets of brake pads/ shoes and a pair of discs, two air-con regases, one exhaust back box, two batteries . . . and nothing else, save for routine oil and filter changes. 55mpg.

Something that has worked for me – wedge an appropriately shaped bit of wood under the saddle (as close as you can get to being aligned above the seatpost), or hold it to the seatclamp, then take a blunt large diameter drill bit and pop it into your hammer drill. Put drill on “hammer only” (if available) or in reverse and “drill + hammer”, then apply the drill bit firmly upwards to the block of wood aligning the drill as close as you can to the line of the seatpost. If you’re lucky the high frequency hammer action will get things moving. Also works using an air chisel . . . .

Got a pair of these from Rose Bikes for my Road Rat; paid £160 for the pair, and have so far clocked up roughly 2000 trouble-free miles on them; very happy with the build quality, and the service received from Rose was first class.

Cambium here on a Cotic Roadrat. Haven’t clocked up too many miles yet, but very impressed so far.

Scan have a good selection which starts at about half of the price of the ebay item you’ve suggested.

Should find that anything made after 2007 has Isofix.

Motorola T40 can be had for £22 a pair from Amazon; these use easily replaceable disposable AAA batteries (but you could substitute your own rechargeables) and are about as simple as you can get; they are also pretty robustly built so stand a chance of surviving inexperienced users.

We’ve purchased from these people[/url] on a couple of occasions and service has never been anything but super-speedy; currently offering a well-specified i5 23″ touchscreen for £650, and have lots of other deals on “ordinary” desktops.

Buy watches which don’t need their batteries changing ? – such as Citizen Eco-drive.

Hope you can get the delivery truck close enough so they can empty directly into the hole – otherwise, don’t underestimate how much time (and effort) it takes to shift 2 m^3 (or about 4 1/2 tons) of setting concrete.

If you use Araldite Clear then you could leave the repair slightly proud – the hardened epoxy is almost invisible, and if the chain drops again it’ll only hit the raised repair, not the surrounding carbon.

Not entirely sure what difference a CE mark would make to a stove-top fan – a CE mark isn’t a quality mark and it doesn’t imply a formal approval by an official body. Instead, it implies that the manufacturer or/and distributor of the item guarantees it meets appropriate European safety and efficiency standards. I suppose that if the blades of the fan were spinning with such speed and power to sever a misguided prodded finger then there could be a safety issue . . . but given that said fan is going to be sat on top of a hot stove then I suggest that the stove itself is the more significant safety hazard.

Rose Bikes recently had a very good deal on Mavic TN319 disc rims built onto DT Swiss 370 hubs – about £160 a pair, including skewers.

£50 cheaper

Had very good service from carmats4u.com – well happy with their heavy duty rubber mats which still look like new after a year of general abuse.

Very happy with my Epson WP-4015; been using it for about 18 months now with absolutely no problems, and reasonable ink costs – the big cartridges last ages, and are very simple to change – have stuck so far with genuine ink but cheaper equivalents also available. Quick; quiet; handles thick card and envelopes well using rear sheet feeder; double sided printing saves paper.

Have used these[/url] for the last couple of years and will be getting a new pair for this winter too – good fit, and warm without being too bulky. Can be had for about £20 from Sports Direct.

If the house is part of a larger development it might be worth asking the neighbours to see if any of them are about to change their kitchen – if a standard fit and colour has been used across the development then you might strike it lucky and be able to blag some bits.

Spotted a Sony unit in Halfords today for £60 which had 3.5mm and USB, and had replaced the space normally taken by the CD drive with a small compartment where an IPod or other media player could be stuffed – quite a neat idea to help tidy the cables away.

If it’s for disc brakes then how about Mavic TN319 ? – very happy with the ones I’ve had built up for use on my Cotic RoadRat

This company sell it by the 30m reel.

Add some SBR / waterproofed to the mortar mix – can get it in any builders merchants or DIY store – will improve the workability of the mortar as well as enhancing the bond strength and durability.

Does the company offer any training opportunities ? – a chat to some of my graduates suggests that too many employers seem to be expecting to employ only fully trained staff without being prepared themselves to facilitate any additional training or skill development.