Did a trip through Tajikistan with a company called RedSpokes (www.redspokes.co.uk) in July last year – started in Dushanbe (Tajik) and ended up in Osh (Kyrgystan), via Khorog, Murgab and the Pamirs. We only spent a couple of days in Dushanbe – impressions were that its a “typical” former-soviet city – wide tree-lined streets, tired buildings and infrastructure (irregular water and power), lots of bureaucracy (were stopped about 4 times on the drive out of the city by local police to “check papers” – and make a small cash donation each time). However, out of the city and you’re into an amazing and beautiful country – very poor people but very open and welcoming – those with the least were the most forthcoming with tea, bread, somewhere to stay. We had a local guide to help us – absolutely essential to avoid lengthy delays at the regular check points along the roads.
Had fun getting a Tajik visa – had to present in person to the nearest Tajik Embassy (Brussels) – this might have changed by now (were rumours of a Tajik Embassy opening in London).