I’ve a pair of Heist 30 in 29er flavour.

Weight out of the box with rim strip and valve was 1927g (893g for the front, 1034g for the rear, shimano freehub body)
Not the lightest but lighter than the ones they replaced and 50% wider. No regrets about opting for the biggest rim…..the 27mm version doesn’t save that much weight if Eastons figures are accurate and I figured if I was doing the wide rim thing I’d do it properly.
Tubeless setup was easy with Specialized tyres and they stayed solid, with no fluid, for half a day.

Only had one ride on them so far so I’ve no clue how well they’ll hold up in terms of bearing life but the rims seem plenty tough enough…..proper clobbered the rear one at Lee Quarry and can see no damage at all.

For the money I paid (crc offer + bc member discount) I’m pretty pleased with mine.

Think i used 18″ wrench when my BB was wedged in. When the problem gets to this stage you want to guarantee results!

Stillson wrench will get that out no bother.

Stumpy 29 owner here…..

Tubeless valves should be as you say, plug and play. Had to do mine up b*****d tight to get a good seal though so now carry small pliers in my pack incase i ever need to remove it again trailside.

Specialized tyres are winners in my book too, although the sidewalls are looking pretty sorry for themselves after a year or so.

Best of luck with it, it should be a proper monster truck if my stumpy is anything to go by!

13mm sag sounds like a much better starting point! If you still find it a bit harsh there’s no harm in bleeding 5 psi out and trying again until you get to a compromise you’re happy with.

Top tip; make a note NOW of your psi, sag, rebound etc and update it whenever you make a change. Only change one thing at a time and make a note of how it affects the bike, amount of travel used etc.

I’d leave ALL damping at minimum when doing any sag setup, and with that in mind the 5mm or so sag you got with minimum rebound is too little.

And yes, you can not bother with the autosag and do it the old fashioned way.

Just to rule out any issues with the shock, can you compress it fully with no air in the can?

Edit; for what it’s worth I weigh half a stone more than you and have about 170psi in the shock to get to 30%sag.

How much do you weigh if you don’t mind me asking.
I have ‘almost’ the same bike (stumpy fsr 29) and have settled on 30% sag and rebound 10 or 11 clicks out from fully slow, so a bit softer and a fair whack faster than your setting.

I’ve had my non-evo for two months, stonker of a bike really.

Won’t win any hillclimbs but it’ll winch up owt you’ve got the legs for. Comes alive with a bit of help from gravity, more playful than i expected it might be, bouncy bits are really well balanced front and rear (but i suspect you’re going down the custom build road?).

I don’t expect i’ll grow fond of it in the same way as i did my Orange but, objectively, i can’t fault it.

Kona Taro? Like a Honzo but aluminium and cheaper. Frame’s presumably a tad lighter too, the Honzo is a bit of a flabby thing.

I’ve got maybe half a dozen, some i didn’t even know about until i checked on veloviewer mentioned earlier. DAMMIT STRAVA GIVE ME MOAR GOLD CROWNZ!!!
Don’t take it too seriously, just injects a bit more banter into club rides and pushes me on a bit.

My two pence, keep your money in your wallet for now. You have a good bike under you in the Trance, learn how to use it moar betterer.

Perhaps invest in a dropper post? Good efficient pedalling position for the ups, greater confidence on the downs from not having your seat invading you.

bwaarp said:

 a good competitive bike would set a privateer back maybe 2.5 grand? All those parts could be swapped over from 1 season to the next – now a competitive bike costs 4 grand at the bottom range all the way up to 8000

Hate to piss on your chips, but;
-Kona Operator £2400
-Specialized Status £2500
-Nukeproof Scalp £2200
-Scott Gambler £2600
-Norco Aurum £2100
-GT Fury £2300
-Canyon Torque £1700

Competitive enough for most ‘privateers’ i would reckon

Point taken, thread derailment over on my behalf.

I concur, back to swings and roundabouts thing again. The lord giveth and the lord taketh away.

Personally, i’m open to the idea of a 29er DH bike. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Has anyone other than Intense had a crack at one?

p.s my experience of 29ers is that i have MORE time to get the bike set up for corners or direction changes as i’m having less to deal with in terms of the bike moving around, being knocked off line etc

Grip is grip, whether it be downhill, uphill or alonghill (did i just invent a new niche?!). If grip WASN’T an issue you’d surely throw your dual ply booger tyres away and revel in having a lighter bike because of that?

I’m not suggesting a longer/shorter chainstay is better/worse, just that i don’t believe it’s as big an issue as you’re making out. I can’t believe 11mm will turn a good handling bike into a poor one. The bike has to be considered as a whole, not just one measurement.

And where a 29er may take more effort in certain situations in others the added stability and grip could be beneficial, no? Swings and roundabouts.

Lord knows how this has got onto 29er DH bikes, STW eh. Anyway, I’m not too convinced about the chainstay length argument….specialized enduro 26 v 29…….11mm difference. 11mm. I struggle with the idea that half an inch is the difference between being Sam Hill and being a mincer….

Lapierre = LA PEE AIR

How’s the clearance with the double? I thought it was an un-do-able due to the pivot position but obviously not.
This thread doesn’t make my life any easier, i wanted to step away from single pivots and try something different but i’m drawn back to the Gyro time and again.

Bike was a large, i’m 6ft bang on so i don’t reckon it was a mile out but an XL would have been more my thing. Only trouble with that is an extra inch in the seat tube over my current bike which would give me reverb seatpost issues.

Had the tallboy out for a demo today, couple of hours on trails i know well aaaaand, i’m not sold.

Two things i didn’t like, low front end and too slack a seat tube angle. Longer forks (120 rather than 100) and a few spacers under the stem would go some way to sorting the first issue, but would make the seat tube even slacker than it already is.
With the saddle at a reasonable height it’s just too far behind the BB to be comfortable for my masher pedaling style. Inline post would help there but then that eats into an already short ETT. I wouldn’t want to swap to a longer stem to get that reach back either, 75mm is long enough for my tastes.

Little bit dissappointed really as aside from those two grumbles it was a fun bike.

If i take the plunge i’ll be buying the alu frame and slowly hoarding parts in time for that week in June they call summer. Plan on 120mm forks, slx level kit, nice-ish wheelset, big volume tyres, dropper post. Not too concerned about overall weight, my SS is over 30lbs, so long as it’s a fun bike to hoon about on.

Dirtyrider, have you had time on other suspension systems and how does vpp compare? I seem to have had a string of single pivots or single pivot + linkages so i’m keem to try something different

Are those Fox 34’s at 140? How’s that working out?

Maybe i’ll have to get over my phobia of ‘long’ stems if i take to it on the test ride.

Some scary riding too, to be fair.

Either fork is sound. Sektors might be a bit heavier and have a lower spec of compression damping. Only real issue i know of with dual air is bad seals between +and – chambers but its a fairly easy fix if your confident stripping forks down. They can be a bit more time consuming to set up too with regards to + and – air pressures.

Kileen fell, suspected broken ankle. Don’t know who else we have?

Fontana NO SEAT!!!!!

Makes me want a race bike and some lycra. And some lungs. And some legs. Proper impressive performance.

Hermida deserves a medal for the face fur alone

Schoeter is 650b. Think all the others are 29er

I was all for criticising the course for being a 2m wide track through a field, but I’m enjoying this!
Can’t complain at MTB being on tv either, good camera footage and those slo-mo shots are really good!

Sorted you out there! Excellent customer service.

wonders why he’s considering changing his five 😕

more spam, sorry,

pastcaring : what’s the reasoning behind selling the van rc? I’m considering one for my 5 but if they aren’t much cop I’ll reconsider

I’ve had this issue too on the downtube, my latest bodge is thus;

One cable tie through the guide on the DT, then a small cable tie on each hose/cable outer looped through the one attached to the frame. Probably not perfick but seems a bit better.

Owned mine for going on 4 months now…bike goes in no bother, two bikes and its a front wheels out job.
Neither has it tipped over in spectacular fashion nor have i felt the need for any traction/stability nonsense.
Treat it for what it is and it's fine.

unklebuck – Member
When I got my Push'd RP23 for my old '05 Five, TF advised 220psi which felt dreadful. I settled on 195 and get full travel a couple of times a ride, at 220 I was only getting about 2/3rds travel.

There seems to be a lot of people on here who expect the impossible from their suspension, and I don't think that the mag and marketing hype help this either.

The holy grail of suspension that doesn't bob under pedaling, doesn't squat through dips, yet feels plush on smaller bumps, gives the best grip and still able to deal with the bigger stuff and drops means vastly different things to different people from reading this.

I'm keen to understand why people who like running the higher pressures do so.

I run a higher pressure as I'm a fatty and need that amount of psi to get the level of sag I'm happy with (about 20%). With a lower pressure I felt the bike sat too far into it's travel and more importantly skewed the geometry and feel of the bike. I still get full travel or near as dammit full travel so I don't feel shortchanged at all.

I agree with your point about the holy grail of suspension and peoples expectations of suspension tech. Compromise is the key word, especially with mid travel trail bikes. I feel I've reached a pretty good setup with my five,but there's no harm in changing things around and seeing what effect it has.

I'm about 14st, bit more with riding kit attached. Last time I fiddled about I settled on 210psi. Pro pedal on 1 but left open. Rebound as quick as possible without trying to punt me over the bars.