Always ride with someone slower than you.

and put bacon in their shorts pockets…

Dont have to ask me twice!!

Just oredered a Charge chainstay protector in brown to match, flippin cheap as well at under £3…

Jackass, good buy…

OK so how many of this lot have gone for a coloured one?

Mines Brown… Is this a good opertunity to post a pic of my bike again?

ps, its stage 6 that need plenty of care, not quite the hammer fest the guide suggests..

This one is quite comprehensive…
http://www.mountainbikerides.co.uk/fettling/hollowtech2bb.htm

Yup.. real good… Jackass is a posh perch snob…

I am unfamiliar with the isoprop stuff, was just trying to assertain if maybe part of your preperation was actually making things worse for you, I know mine were sqealing this weekend and they were brand new and perfect last weekend, this did cure itself and I put it down to using Muc off to clean the bike.

You could try another cleaner, sounds like a right pain in the ar5e on good brakes that are not very old, as sugested it might just be worth re setting them again to be sure, and change your cleaning routine make sure its not anything your doing.

retro83, you ever not bothered to clean the bike down, or touch the brakes in any way? Are they better if left alone?

I tried all kinds of exercises, terry grips, a good one was a bit of broom handle with a string with a weight on the end, twist the handle using just your wrists to wind the weight up, then the other direction to lower it, hold your arms out in front of you.

The best thing was just riding more and releasing the vice like grip on the bars, witch also comes with confidence witch comes with practice.

Going to places like Glentress (not that ive been there) or trail centres, once in a blue moon and expecting to rip and shred all who lay in your wake just isnt going to happen, its easy to try and over do it, go to fast stress yourself out and end up riding slower, out of control and putting yourfelf at risk.

Are you using muc off to clean the bike? Or another type of cleaner?

Mine squealed like a pig after cleaning it after the first ride with new brakes… burnt off and worked ok after a few squealing grabby stops..

Pretty common in MX, ive not ridden Glentress so no idea if it would work there, but it used to help if you can consiously release your grip and stretch out your fingers on a section thats not quite so relentless, maybe before entering a corner, and just try to not hold on quite so tight. (easier said than done!)

Sunday…

Xan is right, but it if your frame is a solid colour, use the T cut you mentioned first, then the colourmagic or any other good car polish to really buff it up..

The T cut will clean off the dead paint and leave you paint worth giving a polish, dont go mad with the T cut you never know how much paint you have on it until you show the undercoat then its too late!!

I think I will wait until it rains..

Its great, the inner roadie in me likes it… I know its not finished but the bars are a funny angle even for a fixie, no?

No nice way, get neanderthal….

I hadnt spotted it… filthy minds some people.

An alternative opinion is spend your money on a weekend away on your bike somewhere a bit more fun.

Dont feel daunted, take all the riding kit you have, enjoy yourself.

Ha ha, yep thats an easier method Alasdair!

LOL Spoon…

Yes, big hooks availiable at B&Q, lidl currently has bike hoists in at the moment (at least last week they did) could put them against the wall too.. Will need to undo the stem steerer clamp bolts and twist the bars inline with the wheel to get it snug against a wall..

I guess its more for the mechanically minded, but at about £7 for new bearings I will be investing in a BB tool when mine starts grinding.

Also in answer to the original question, yes you can flip the seals off a sealed bearing and grease them up, again you would need to dismantle it.

I just replied on the other BB thread, I have read that lots of people are removing the bearings and buying new from engineering supplies shops and just putting new bearings in their old cups, maybe its possible for the Truvativ too, would need to get your old bearings out, the size is etched onto them.

Cant you just buy new bearings for your Shimano BB? Lots of threads on here about it about £7 for the bearings apparently.

Sit on their wheel for a bit save your energy, then go past fast enough they cant get onto your wheel..

Glad to see the thread pop back again…. Didn’t have any pics last time..

Glenh, maybe your right but I do have look at the homebrew threads and I am not sure its done just yet, there sems to be quite a few different types of LED the homebrew guys are using, the torches are agreed limited, I did cover that in my post, just have to make a rational decision on what you really need to get out of a light in terms of power and runtime.

I also agree the Hope stuff would be great quality, I said as much earlier, but my opinion stands for now I dont think I would be wedging out a lot on a bike specific light, when right now I can get the same power and runtimes as a Hope for £50 albeit with a change of battery to get a similar runtime.

Its just an opinion, they do vary.

I dont think I would be spending loads right now, LED lighting systems seem to be improving leaps and bounds year on year, the Hope will be a good system no doubt, but my money was on a P7 torch for now.

You have to ask how long a runtime etc you really need, 1 torch 2 batteries will do more night riding than I get time for..

I dont like my blowfish too much either…

It doesnt take much water and what it does tastes funny..

thepodge… theyre not new been about for ages. in favour and out of favour again. The Whyte bikes always specced them but they have dropped them now (I believe).

Some day all forks will be this way up…

Travel:- I got an old set that didnt quite make full travel, and some new ones off ebay that someone was selling off cheap, apparently from Whyte bikes, not sure if they made full travel I forgot to look, will check next time I ride it.

This gives an insight into the tests to pass EN1078… thats the one my Lidl £8 helmet passed and the same one every helmet on sale in the UK passes..

http://www.cyclehelmets.org/papers/c2023.pdf

Floating rotor rivets do that, if the rotor itself got clearance to the frame its fine, as sugested you might have to get creative with a file to get the noggins to clear the mount adaptor… (file the adaptor not the noggins)

Is that £129 fitting on top of the £149 for the lowers and the £89 service charge?

Surely they have the lowers off to service so why the extra I wonder..

Or do you mean £149 plus a service of £89?

I bought mine in Lidl last weekend for £8, I like it so much I wear it in the office… Does this help anyone decide wether to use one or not?

About level..

Any I can get for about a tenner.. usually 661, Raji were good but get whatever is cheap.

it wasn’t quite two links, and those fancy 1/2 link things weren’t for the narrow chain that I was using

What narrow chain is it you using? Does it fit width wise on the SS rear cog nicely? is the pitch right?

Get a £5 BMX chain and give it another go, then you can also use your half link to help tension it..

Is it a 9 speed or 8 speed chain your running?

If your chains too narrow for the SS rear cog it could be your problem.

Your doing all whyte then…

I posted a pic of my bike with SC32’s on the other day someone asked what forks they were, as they hadnt seen upside down forks for years!!

Clubber, I really like that retro one you did…

If someone made the Aldi or Lidl ones I would buy them.. made me laugh.