As I said yesterday, go for a cartridge bearing hub if you can, BUT if your on a budget there are other cartridge bearing hub that will give you great service other than the Hope….

What with the price hike of Shimano kit you stand a chance of doing it for similar money.

I dont think they make Hope XC’s anymore so its PRO2’s if you go that route. Unless the wheelbuilders have new oldstock XC’s

Pro2’s give you option of futureproofing the front wheel if you ever build up one of those as it converts from QR to 20mm type I believe.

How much are Shimano hubs now given the horrific Shimano price increases?

Any way you stump up the money for a cartridge bearing type hub?

Bound to someone on here knows of something good and cheap.

Maybe I got the race bit wrong on the Sapim spokes, whatever I have are 1.5mm same as the Revs.

I am at 4 years on mine, broke 1 spoke at Thetford of all places, had a re tension after a week using the lifts in the Alps but no breakages.

Ride xc jeycore knarly shizzle an all wheelies n skids innit..

How many spokes have you broken in the last couple of years?

They are weaker, they are bound to be, but as suggested if your not heavy on kit then why not take the weight saving.

Depends what you want and what your riding.. rev’s save weight, I like em and dont have any trouble with them. Can also check Sapim Race, pretty much the same as rev’s I got them on one bike and rev’s on the other.

It looks nicer with a bigger rotor upfront in my opinion… (probably works better too, but obviously thats secondary consideration isnt it)

Avid adaptors look about the cheapest at £6.99 and use your exsisting 203 front rotor? Or see if the place your looking at brakes will throw an adaptor into the deal.

XTR stuff is always great, but as my Campag cranks are not even designed for offroad use its been quite a good effort on their part to outlive the XT on my other bike, and now I know I can re grease it so easily its going to outlast even your XTR, albeit with a little maintenance, 1 bolt and its appart isnt too much effort….

My point was why dont other BB’s make it so easy to service, the King one is more ££ than my chainset and you need their grease gun for the job.

Maybe just dont try and work it out, you dont sound like you have got one measurement right…

What frame has a 129.54 headtube? It sounds like an odd figure & 10mm more than an 20″ inbred…

Thompson stem has to more that 24.5mm you sure your not on about 25.4mm bar diameter? Depth of the stem must be in the region of 40-50mm

Spank… cheers… allrounders i guess.

Jey XC just entered the thred…

Mate and his familly coming to stay.. keedn MTB rider though and bringing his bike for good friday blast… Thorndon for a change.

I find cheapo full length outer cables as good as expensive 3 peice cables were, could you just run the cheap stuff and save some money?

In answer to your question, maybe its beacause they believe the cable might drag in a full length outer making it stiff in action, or too much for the mech to pull?

renton, kinda the reverse of what I am seeing at the moment, but yeah it might just be the change in riding conditions..

Maybe mess about with some free stuff like tyre pressures,& for me rotating my riser bars forward made a huge difference in comfort and feel of the bike for me the other week, lots of variables out there to play without spending. If all that fails then you know its time to move onto something else.

Yes, sounds wierd, what made you change back to flats? Could you pop the SPDS’s on again to try? Was it a new tyre but the same as the old one?

How about the conditions your riding? On my ride last night it was really fast going but the trails were so hard there was an element of riding on marbles in some areas, could it be you trials have dried up a lot too and their isnt anything much for even the new tyre to grip?

Its a bit overforked for a standard Inbred isnt it?, I run mine with 125mm travel forks but theyre very short axle to crown so get away with it, maybe the revs are a big axle to crown, so its pushing the front wide on turns instead of digging in, run a bit extra sag to see if it helps….. But soft forks also feel wierd.

I think most people run Indbreds with smallish frames and lots of seatpost.

5′ 8″ 32 inside leg and on an 18″ (most my size would go for a 16″ I believe..

Great, small wheeled airtime is go…..

I have the Black and gold M4’s on one bike and the old style XTR on the other, I dont find there is much between them in power but the XTR’s modulate better and are cheap to build up a set of brakes.

Mountaincarrot, I made it a 72.8 deg slope, you might want to re do your calculations.. 🙂

Crank just started creaking on climbs 😕

Remember to not jump off kerbs incase that back end trys to do its folding thing.

I like em… And a dirty secret hankering for a Strida

Leigh on Sea..

Chapking, I have some Altitude shorts in a medium size I think, your welcome to try them for postage and a donation to STW, worn a handfull of times but was kidding myself and theyre a bit tight!!

I blame your thread and the big discount on these from Evans, hope they are better than the cartoon drawing suggests..

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/terra-shorts-ec002495

I wish I had kept up with the thread though and gone for the Oakley’s they look a bargain.

If its a Prophet maybe you should ask the bike?

sfb class..

I was a bel air bum until I got a charge spoon, as suggested, cheap enough to give a go, and you will get most of your money back in the classifeds if your not happy with it.

fair enough, maybe I will just drop a few psi at a time and experiment then.

As I did the last post a big question mark popped into my head about the front tyre rolling a bit…

hijack..Thanks fuzzy, going to splurge the extra on the spesh enduros, they look great. That must be the new version of what I had…

What started out as my mate taking the pee out of me, has actually got me thinking of dropping my pressure a fair bit for tonights ride. going to give 35 rear, and 30 front a try…

andy thats lovely, my mate had the al version and I coveted that (when he wasnt looking) I got a ti hartail and its all pish about ride quality, that can be built into a frame of any material, loads of other reasons to have a ti frame than the feel, its as tough as old boots for start, and will still look like new in 10 years time.

I had some specialized ones that were ace in 04, eventually wore out, had a decent proper lycra inner fully removable… wish I could find another pair.

mmm, was just about to click buy on humvees, now maybe not…

It hasnt broken the hub, most of the spokes will be fine, you just need to buy a rim and pay for a wheelbuild..

Find out what the rim is exactly, the maker will still be around, get another if possible or something its equal.

800 will leave you with a fair bit of polishing, might be quicker to use 800 to get the anodising off, then 1200 to get the 800 scratches out, then solvol autosol or brasso….

There is a youth hostel right on the route, cant remember the name though sorry, Trailbreak use it for their Lemming trail, its actually at about 62 miles so more than half, but it worked out well when I did the Lemming.

Ha ha… Toomanybikes… you know its really for you..

dont all shrader valves have a removable core?

crikey thats a bargain reggiegasket..

Does the Halfords one look like this?

Thats an Outland one from ebay, choice of diameters but its £30

I dont want to rain on your parade will, but after watching those video’s back to back the helmet mounted footage of adsticks was a lot more watcher freindly and more representative of a riders eye view….

How bad does it jump/shake if the camera is bar mounted?

adstick, thats the best video I have seen on here, and Brechfa just became a place I need to go and ride…

They have an info contact on their website.. Google is your friend..

http://www.beone-bikes.com/NL/faq.html

Looks like an absolute bargain of a frame to me…

Rotate your bars too, it worked for me, and is free to try..