Ha ha…. going to get the thinners out on the seatpost logo when I get in!!

OLLY, Yeah chain dropped a lot, put a bash on it and it was fine, just added new running gear and unramped ring and am giving it a go without the bash (jump stop still on).

I have spent enough on pointless stuff for now!! (but yes the caps would be the finishing touch)

What can I say I am an Essex boy… I have never planned anything.. Ever.

It gets worse I have another… (yes I know cut the steerer)

May I refer you to the gaudy anodizing thread!!

Here is mine, like Tiffany’s display window.

UpQuickDownSlow… no it wouldnt, a bent spindle will force it side to side endlessly as the wheel rotates eventually causing it to fail, what your saying may be the case (difficult to tell from the image), but it would just force it one way then stay there.

Or do you mean that might have bent the spindle?

Here you go Lodger I think its easier to diagnose with the picture so I have hosted it. Thanks for sending it.

It looks just like wear and tear on a bike that looks like it does a lot of work, shame but it happens.

Now its just a guess, but HTTP404 might be right, maybe it is the wrong BB for the chainset but it wasnt highlighted on your old bike as it didnt have a conventional chainstay, it wouldnt be out enough to really ruin the shifting and running so it didnt show up untill now?

Thats the pic… thank you.. He would have looked really cool if only he a peak on the helmet..

Yep Sam, maybe thats what the racer guy had hung around his neck, he didnt mention the make, but he mentioned on another site explaining why he had to get the tyre back to a checkpoint as it was an expensive prototype one.

I have been searching STW to find the picture and the link to what he had written about it but I cant find it.

Any of you lot fancy catching a train out East for a STW ride one weekend?

Brentwood or Southend?

There was a picture on here the other week of a bloke finishing an XC race on a bare rim with a prototype TUB MTB tyre around his neck that had rolled off the rim.

boriselbrus
I got it, Octalink, I got mine a bit shinier than you did though!!

My old SS

Oh and my current 1×9 while I am in Fotopic.

I pulled a pic of the crank and think it will be fine. Guess your going to find out!!

Bimbler I dont take anything too seriously on here. 🙂

TJ I will find out soon enough, but mine only gets used on roads to link up my offroad…

Nah the inner bolts onto a different bit of the crank so nothing to do there but remove it (usually), if you run a bash ring your standard bolts will be fine for holding the bash where the big ring was and the 32 in its usual position…

What cranks have you got?

I have just worn out my front ring and bought an unramped one, I am hoping to ditch the bashring as I have weird cranks and struggle to get a nice looking bash ring purely for asthetical reasons, but I am sceptical this will solve the chain dropping for offroad… N gear and bash and it never drops off.

NW Alps Jeyer aka Boz If you have the N gear and a bash, any ring up front will do, no point throwing money away if you got a decent chainring of the right size.

Bimbler I dont really know, I find it does some of what SS does and makes you attack steep stuff to get up it, but has a bit more versatility, like being able to go faster, not sure why, but I like it for my local riding where I found I didnt use the granny and didnt use the big ring so didnt fancy carrying them about each ride.. But you have a fair point.

Can you post it then please, for my own morbid curiosity.

You can (and I have) do worse..

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pair-of-Specialized-Pro-Adrenaline-Dual-XC-Tyres-2-MTB_W0QQitemZ270410785666QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item3ef5bd2382&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1688%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

boris, someone has taken a dremel to your crank arm!!!

What are they?

I run Adrenalines, think they are now called Resolutions on my full sus bike, they are an OK allrounder but not really great at anything except they do seem to excel at trail centres (well Afan and Coedy anyhow). Be ok if you get some cheap enough.

And Fast Traks on my hardtail, now these do exactly what they say on the tin and are great fast tyres in drier conditions, BUT they do way better than expected in soft going too, but mud tyres they are not, so there is a limit to them. I really rate these again if you can get them at the right price.

My Fast Traks are about shot and am going to try some small block 8s but only as I got them cheap… I primarily run Spesh tyres as you can get a pair for the price of some other makes 1.

crikey has just about got my opinion on tyres.

Both types I use are nice and light, plenty volume, reasonable price. Worth a punt in my opinion.

mmmmm, you better check your clearances if your looking at that size Specialized tyre on an XC bike they come up huge…

2.1s only just cleared the rear stays on my Stumpjumper FSR and took all the paint off when it got muddy, i stick to 2.0’s now and they are similar in size to some makes 2.3..

PP, not so sure about that, to service the air can takes minutes but can save loads, its worth doing pretty regulary in my experience, my first FOX rear shock I didnt start pulling it appart and lubing until it was too late and had wear on the shaft, but regular lubing kept even that running for ages until it eventually needed a proper service and a new shaft (expensive)

The one I have now has been running since 05 without any other maintenance than the air can off and a lube up every now and then.
Oh and one of them massive bang open ups when it got stuck down, but that was a year ago and its still fine.

Andy, if your buying the bits try to get a short cage rear mech, it will help keep it all in check.

Oh and you are wrong for offroad you need the N gear jump stop and a bash ring, you will drop the chain without it, and increasing number of times as it all wears out…

You going to run it offroad? I use a 34t front and 11-34 out back, when the drive train was new it would drop the chain once or twice a ride, but as the chain gets a bit more side to side slap in it, as it wears, things get worse, one special night at a Summit race it dropped the chain 13 times in an hour!!!

Get an N gear Jump stop up front and a bash ring it will never fall off then, as TJ says I have read that unramped front chainrings help out and I have one to fit this weekend in bid to do without the bash….

ps i run the chain as tight as I dare & its a decent mech…(at least it was once)

I know its a different beast to the Inbred but wasn’t the Ti 456 given to a magazine to test with 440mm rigid forks (not 29niner specific) and a 29″ front wheel to rave reviews?

So going on that it would change the head angle by about 1.5 deg, or more to the point, put it to the sagged height of a set of 125mm forks, or have I got my math and facts all messed up?

[edit] for the original post wouldnt those figures be the same/similar dropping the rear wheel size of a 29’r? [edit]

Cost you nout to try it, you must have a pal to borrow a 26″ wheel off…

Dale, if your going to up the disk size, go straight to 200mm, why mess about.

I also picked up some old style XTR calipers a while back for £25 each they were a lot better than the 525’s I had but I did need new hoses too.

Cant doubt the Epic’s credentials, but as you got a full suspension bike already maybe a hardtail would give you what your looking for with less bits n bobs to worry about.. 3k is proper money and will get loads of bike in whatever flavour you want, more test rides on other bikes I rekon.

Scootash… here you go, it seems most Ti frames dont have a replacable hanger (at least mine hasnt) this might be your answer.

Breakaway Bolt.

http://www.middleburn.co.uk/access_breakawaybolts.php

Yes but of the 3 red crosses, I think I prefer number 2…

Why cant you use a break away mech bolt on a Ti frame instead of worrying about a replaceable hangar?

mk1fan, I would say if she is using 20mm of the suspension over the set sag then thats about right for the riding your talking about, I would be more worried if it was bottoming out on bridleways and shallow roots. Just leave it alone and let her ride it without it changing setup each time she goes out.

Later on if she likes it enough build a bike for her.

I got some absolutely knackered looking 520’s outlasted 2 sets of xpedo and a set of the old 959’s (xtr before they did and xtr pedal)

520’s..

Not much help but my wireless computer is affected buy car air circulation fans, gives me some **** huge recorded top speeds…

The deep scoring can eventually lead to failure, I think its Peterpoddys 853 that did exaclty that in the end, clean it up paint over it with something to stop the rust and get one of those bolt on devices that stops the chain sucking and causing any more damge to it before its too late.

Also had a pal with an ally Cannondale that broke right where it had chain suck scores on the frame.

You need something like this Ringle one.

toss, sold out of the shimano ones..

Thanks though..

I recently bought a brand new Carrera frame off ebay for £40 disc specific and a very nice bit of kit, especially for the money, however in a bid to build something nice and that didnt look like a mash of odd bits I ended up blowing near £400 without too much trouble, unless you really have a lot of parts to donate, or not overly worried about it looking new it might be better just buying a bike..

I got most bits 2nd hand but mint got Deore SLX shifting, but a cheapo chainset… I think I ended up with something better than a £400 bike but not by a great deal and it was a lot of effort.

Anyhow in long winded answer, the frames are a great buy if there are any on Ebay.

I did manage to get a bashring for it, but its not the most asthetic things, if your running SS would you need the bash? 34t is pretty well out of the way for XC stuff, I had to run the bash on 1×9 to help the chain stay on… and yes, without the outer or bash I had to get shorter bolts. but you will with whatever you get. Not sure where the bash came from now, someone here pointed me the right direction for it.

Full length outer have been a revelation for me, fit and forget, but as its time to replace mine now, I bought some nice looking fibrax braided cables from CRC (only a fiver) and some Middleburn cable oilers to make it really last.

On the other bike that has 3 peice cables I have not swapped to full length as yet, (though I might) its had XTR on it, and has lasted well, but do need a little TLC if been sat in the shed a while after a wash.

I run a Campagnolo Centaur ultra torque compact road chainset on my bike as either 1×9 or SS its got a fully serviceable BB (external) if and when the bearings go (and they dont if you clean and grease it from time to time) the bearings are availiable for £20 you can sell on the outer ring, and should you wear the front ring out, middleburn do unrampped rings for it. Comes with a 34t that will get you rolling for no extra outlay, its stiff, light and looks nice…. Oh and did I mention its FULLY SERVICEABLE. Might be worth a look.

GW yep ive looked at this one, the road mechs dont travel at the right angle to run on MTB cassettes and bind up on the big cogs of MTB cassettes, I would have loved to run a roady mech as there are some lovely looking ones to be had, all the MTB stuff looks a bit naff in comparison.

Sounds good so far, rekon the short cage might do it as I had hoped..

Thanks fellas, but anyone actually using the 11-34t on a 1×9 with a short cage that can let me know for sure I would still appreciate it.