If you drop the lowers regularly yourself then you may as well do that again but this time remove the air assembly too and inspect. You just need to remove the circlip at the bottom of the stanchion.

There is no such shock size as 192×55. I presume the seller has measured it incorrectly. It must be a 190×50 which is a very common size.

The titanium shelled compression dampers were(are) notorious for cracking on the outer shell where all the excess material is machined out.
Both the dampers you mention are very much of a likeness so there’s no real benefit in swapping apart from the smug feeling knowing there is some titanium inside your fork!

Hilarious! At what point in your day do think “I can’t wait to get home a and put this on a cycle forum”
Having a moan about the price of a Dyson? Really?!!!

Your wiper seals on your Pike fork just have foam rings below them. They are just dust wipers and not designed to be an air seal. If you had air leaking from the bottom of the stanchion into the lower leg you would find that your wiper seal would pop out.

If its 2 months old get it sorted under warrnaty. I know of a few people who have had issues with the bar lever and Rockshox have resolved it without fuss

You could just call Mojo (fox uk importers) and ask them! ;-)
01633 615815

You could try phoning them?! ;-)
I know its a bit old fashioned but you’ll probably get a better idea of when to expect them.

Sorry if this has been mentioned already (can’t be bothered to read the entire thread)
I’ve donkeys years of experience in the cycle trade and can vouch that Specialized customer service and technical back-up is outstanding.
Also any Specialized dealer who wants to offer good customer service would be able to help resolve your fork and shock issue without too much fuss at all so long as their costs are covered. Just make sure you are armed with your proof of purchase (or in your case insurance paperwork)
If your fork and shock are Specialized units then Specialized would arrange collection of the items from any Specialized dealer and you would just have to cover the shops labour for removal and re-fitting of fork and shock.
If the fork and shock are Fox or Rockshox ANY bike shop could send them straight to Mojo (fox) or Sram Tech (rockshox) for a warranty repair. You would be expected to postage and labour costs but to save money you could remove them from the bike yourself.
When I worked for Evans we would deal with warranties for anyone regardless of where they bought things from. It takes 5 mins to call a supplier and get a returns number, charge the customer a bit of postage and hey presto, issue resolved, = happy customer.

Assuming that your fork is not collapsed and already sitting midway through its travel then there will be two possibilities why your fork wont compress fully and achieve full travel:
1. There is too much open bath oil in the lowers. On a Reba of that era you should have 15ml of 15wt oil in the R&L lower leg.
2. There is too much oil in the damper/right upper stanchion. This will prevent the damper shaft (the rod that sticks out of the bottom of right stanchion) from being compressed fully and will cause a hydraulic lock.

A quick removal of the lower legs should be enough to check for both of these symptoms.

With the with fork inflated to normal pressure, what is the measurement from the lip of the wiper seal to the top of the stanchion?

Phone Specialized UK Tel.020 8391 3500 they are really helpful and stock lots of spares

Pretty sure Mojo are the only people for Dyad servicing. The guy at Evans has a great reputation for Lefty and Headshok servicing and been doing them for donkeys years.

All these rock bottom prices must be for non-uk and non retail stock.
Pike solo airs are £450 exc VAT for the UK trade so its rather alarming that some places are selling them so cheap. Its insane!

Best place to ask is probably the shop ;-)
Most shops will take a bike back and swap for a different size if its still in a new condition. Worst case scenario is they might charge you a small fee if they have to sell the bike as shop soiled

There’s loads on ebay

Give these guys a call with the dimensions. They are a great company. Dont buy the cheapest you can find. You get what you pay for so best to buy something good quality. £6-10 a bearing is considered good quality and comparable to what cycle companies use.
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.html

Searching via google chrome brings up the old archived Evans Cycles web pages for that bike. It was equipped with a 100mm fork. 120mm will jack up the front a fair bit.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/pinnacle/trojan-20-jump-bike-ec000937#features

That link that is posted above simply shows Leisure Lakes as being a business that accepts Ride2Work vouchers. You can access that web page on the Evans website by via the Ride2Work pages but not via the stores location A-Z page.
The new Evans store is at a completely different location to Leisure Lakes.
Sorry to put an end to that mystery! ;-)

Shimano stainless steel cables and shimano 5mm outer with the correct sealed end caps. Best value for money and used by the trade the world over.
You might save a couple of £ by using jagwire or other cheap brands but to be honest its not worth the small saving as they will corrode quicker and have substandard linings on the outer casing.
I’m sure others will have their opinions but thats mine thrown in as a starting point ;-)
(18 years in the trade) ((jesus i’m old!))

All sorted now but thanks for the kind offer

Thanks for the help people. Have booked a meet and greet for £34.
All sorted :-)

Is that the correct crownrace for your headset?
Does the 1.5 adapter crownrace fit into the lower headset cup without fowling on the inside of the bearing?

The crown race in your palm is currently upside down

Any of the branded Fox Rockshox ones are great.
Dont get confused by the hissing of air as you removed the pump. This is the release of the built up pressure in the rubber hose on the pump and not air releasing from the shock.

Just clamp the Reverb as you would a normal post. The post can take it! Your workstand jaws are hardly going to clamp it tighter than the frame clamp bolt?!

I’ll admit I just searched for ‘Embrocation’ on chainreaction and not one search result!
Had to google it. (cyclist for 15 years) :oops:

Evans get a lot of stick. Some deserved, some not. But if you’re taking something back for exchange or refund to any retailer then at least have the common sense to have the receipt. Shops can provide gift receipts that hides the cost of the item for this very reason.
Presuming a bank statement has the same qualities as a till receipt is way off the mark.
You could have saved a lot of drama by using a good old fashioned technique that people seem to have forgotten about. PHONE THE SHOP before making the journey!

The only part that will work is the MoCo. Stanchions, lowers, air assembly will not be compatible.
You say ‘New to you’. I presume its second hand bike then. Those forks prob just need a service as its prob little more than moisture and dirt in the lowers making them feel rubbish.

I had one of these old Sid Dual Air shocks and amazingly I found the exact size 2 seals i needed in one of those workshop o-ring kits in Aldi supermarket for £5.

With ref to the post earlier about Halfords being a middle man for Mojo:

All bike shops inc Halfords can/will send stuff to Mojo and/or TF tuned in axtatly the same way that you as a private customer could. The service cost should be the same RRP as on the respective companies websites (bear in mind P&P costs).
Halfords will make a small profit out of doing this as Mojo & TF will offer a trade discount.
Whilst I’m not bashing Halfords I guess what i’m saying is Halfords aren’t the sole avenue for getting your stuff sent off.

oh, and no its not my ebay listing!

chrisdiesel: You say your RP23 doesn’t offer you enough pro pedal to restrict movement/lock the shock, even after tuning. But then you say its got Med/Med tuning. Surely if you’ve paid to have it tuned you would have got it tuned to Firm?
The ones i’ve riden with firm compression tune have been virtually locked out when the pro pedal lever is on and the adjuster dial set to 3.

Send to Hope. It could be with them by Thursday and be repaired with minimal cost and fuss. Unless you have access to good quality expanding bearing extractors you’ll not get them out without risk of mashing up the freehub body.

Aye brimmed. And make sure the bladder has returned to its correct shape/form. You’ll then get a bit of excess purging out the top as you screw in the silver compression bolt thingy into the middle of the topcap.
If your funnel/syringe doesn’t fit the hole in the top cap very well just push a 1″ length of rubber over the nozzle to allow a good seal around the topcap.
I got all this info from Mojo and its fairly easy to do. Good luck!

Coatesy, where do you get your damper seals from? Would you care to share your knowledge :wink:

The syringe is nothing more than a tool to allow surplus oil and air to be contained as you cycle the damper rod up and down. You could use a small funnel instead. Finish the bleed on a down-stroke and leave the damper rod fully extended and re-fit adjusters to top cap.

Super easy to change the oil. No need to strip the entire damper like it shows in that link.
It can be pumped out the top of the damper and a normal syringe used to re-fill and bleed. The helpful chaps at Mojo said the bleed process on the fox site is bonkers and they just do it from the top cap. Just squeeze and release the bladder several times throughout the process and bobs your uncle.

The only seal kits available to consumers is an Air Can kit which replaces all seals in the air can and the seal block. Squelching sounds will be the damper oil inside the shock body tube and these seals are not available to buy at retail. Its a send-away job :-/

Business is harsh. There’s always going to be someone selling something cheaper than the next person. The reasons for this can be counteless.
Shifting dead stock, Sourced from outside normal avenues, OE products, the list goes on.
And it’s wrong to compare a small independents to a major chain. The business models are completely different. You dont see your local grocer competing with Asda on price yet they still trade and make a successful business, why? because they are ‘there’ on the highstreet, convenient, sell items that you want. There’s a reason they are called Convenient Stores!
The Halfords and the Asda’s rely on selling 1000’s of items with very little profit whereas the small stores sell fewer items with higher profit margins.
Anyone who trys to run a small independent with the same strategies as a huge chain is destined for failure.
People lose touch of the ‘normal consumers’ that are out there. The actual number of shoppers that trawl the internet for the cheapest prices and are fluent in ‘chainreaction this’ and ‘wiggle that’ are actually in the minority.
The majority of people who ride just want to buy decent products from their local store that they trust and take advice from the chap that’s served them for the last 5 years, the sales guy who knows their bike inside out. A good small local store, regardless of what part of the retail sector they’re from will stand out for all the right reasons if it’s run right.
Biketreks in Ambleside is a perfect example of this. Service and knowledge is in abundance and this draws in customers from far wide. Their customers are REAL customers that dont live online with weary eyes searching for rock bottom prices. They shop their for the RIGHT reasons.
As much as the internet is great for business it’s also killing it, but we (us internet geeks) are as much to blame in the constant drive to buy things as cheap as possible. And if you’re one of those people who goes into your local shop and asks for something to be price matched then you should hang your head in shame!
Just my views anyway.
Rant over :-)
Goodnight