Couple of points worth mentioning –
The suggestion that grease is blocking the little transfer dimple in the stanchion is absolute nonsense and a very common misconception that appears on forums. There’s absolutely no way that grease will hold back high air pressure. This myth is wrongly diagnosed because its actually the removal of the air shaft (and therefore release of any excess negative pressure) that cures the sucked-down issue. People then remove lots grease and re-assembled and think that it was the grease causing the issue all along.

The mention of burping the fork is also forum favourite for wrongly diagnosing. If you have air trapped in the lower leg this will cause the fork to over-extend rather than suck down. And it also means that you have an air leak from the negative air seal head which is allowing air pressure to leak from the stanchion into the lower leg void. Sliding a zip tie under the wiper seal will indeed release the air, however the cause of the fault ( a negative seal head leak) will be there and the issue will arise again after a ride or two.

On a new fork the last thing you should do is try to fettle it yourself. Get it back to Rockshox for a warranty inspection. As a matter of course they’ll likely replace all the air seals and replenish fluids. And they’ll check/update any post production issues that have had rolling changes.

Both the of problems you’ve encountered with your X2 shock are likely caused by frame/linkage alignment rather than the shock being solely at fault.
A scored inner air sleeve and the fracture in the casting are most commonly the result of the shock not running in a true linear path, ie, being forced sideways as it compresses. I would suggest getting your bike thoroughly checked out by a workshop that knows their shizzle when it comes to alignment and linkage path issues.

These are the pressures for the Pike Air U-Turn
63-72kg – 115-130psi
73-81kg – 130-145psi
81-90kg – 145-160psi
90kg+ – 160psi +

Upper bushes and wipers are only available as part of a complete collar assembly. There’s a company that makes upper bushes as a separate item but getting the old one out is a pig as they’re designed not to come out. Plus I’m of the mindset of using genuine parts only.
I got one of these proper kits and its everything you need to give the slider a full service..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283836379353

The wiper seals are the same on all brandX models. Ebay for kits

Nixie, Shock mounting hardware is meant to be snug and tight in the DU eyelet. It’s normal to have to use a vice (with soft jaws) to press the hardware pin into the end of the shock. Mounting hardware would never cause a knock in the travel as you push on the bike. If the hardware was extremely worn you would get a loose rattle/play when lifting the the bike from the saddle but it would still not cause any knock through the stroke of the shock. It sounds like there’s something else going on with your frame.
What make and model of shock is it? Does it make any audible squishy sounds? If so then IFP pressure might have dropped causing the damping oil to foam up and this would cause a knock in the stroke

The travel adjust spacers for air shaft on the 35 forks are the same as the cheaper XC30, XC32, Sektor etc.
Part number 11.4018.034.000

You’ve got to wonder how accurate that article is though? Remember when SD first bought Evans and the news stories were stating half of the 60 stores were to close. Ended up that SD closed 6 stores. They’ve since opened 5 or 6 new stores elsewhere.

Shimano cable cutters without a doubt

Any reputable suspension service centre will able to return to working order. TF, Race Ready, Silverfish, Plush etc

Fox part number 019-01-140 size M4 x 3m with 0.7mm thread pitch

If you take the lowers off a new fork then sure you’ll think there’s not much in there but don’t forget that the 10ml (for 35mm chassis forks) is adhered to all the inner surface of the lowers so it will appear like there’s not much in there. I think people just expect Niagara falls to come cascading out of the lowers when they undo the bolts!
As for grease blocking the negative air port, don’t get me started on that ;-)
The common cause for the air shaft sucking down is the negative air port wearing a tiny dimple on the quad air seal. A new air seal on the piston and bobs your uncle!

For the sake of £10-15 i’d let a bike shop fit it. From looking at your BB cup you must have used quite a bit of force to get it that far into the frame cross-theaded!
Frame thread issues aside I think you’ve maybe been a bit heavy handed to not notice it going in wonky yet get it that far into the frame (no offence meant).
I doubt very much you’ll have caused any damage to the frame as its steel and the cup is aluminium.

All the official SID service info and oil types/volumes can be found here…..
https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/service/rockshox/7,102,434

Changing the damping oil from 5w to 2.5w will make no noticeable difference. You would need to change the parameters of the components that the oil travels through. (This was said to me by TF Tuned a while back).
For you to get numb forearms after 10mins would suggest that something is clearly at fault with the fork rather than a an adjustment needed.
I would suggest taking the lowers off and checking that the rebound rod can be easily moved up and down into the stanchion with ease. Its very likely that bottom of the motion control is not opening and closing properly which would make your fork feel very harsh. If you cant push the rebound rod up easily and smoothly then this is the likely culprit of your fork feeling harsh. There were lots of broken/failed motion control on the early 35mm Revs (i worked in a shop and we had to send many back for warranty).

Update…!!! You known what, i think i’ve a set of dead Sektors in the attic with 15mm axle size. Will dig them out. White ones from memory.

Whilst the distance between the two stanchions is the same on nearly all (if not all) 32mm Rockshox forks you’d need to make sure that any new lowers have the bushes at the correct heights. For instance you could physically fit a set of lowers with 20mm axle from an Argyle fork but as they’re only 100mm travel the lower bush is deeper into the leg and with your revelation being longer travel the stanchion wouldn’t engage into the lower bush and give your huge amounts of fore and aft movement.
I would suggest using Sektor, Revelation, or Pike lowers as these will have the correct bushing depths for your U-Turn Rev

More importantly than all the above….
Check the seal head at the base of the damper. The original ones (shallow and flat profile) were prone to leaking and rockshox brought out a newer version in 216 that is much less friction and much less prone to leaking. You can visually check which you have as the new ones have a green seal that is visible from the bottom of the damper tube. £18 for one is a worthwhile upgrade if you need it. Wiper seals – just go for the rockshox/skf ones that come in all the service kits. They’re amazing

The best value genuine service kits are the ones that are £30 on fleabay. They have a complete new upper collar with wiper, bush, foam. Plus lower bush and seal, bottom out o-ring and foam filter for base. Providing your post isn’t suffering from the dreaded ‘bob’ then one of those kits will get it feeling like new again. Cheaper non branded parts are on fleabay too but can be a bit of a gamble

It really depends on how much you weigh with all your kit on, how much travel, and what sort of riding you’re doing. Without these factors anyones advice is just guesswork. I know that sounds a bit negative but its meant in good faith :-)
Just hit the trails and try minor adjustments for yourself. Make small logical changes and ride the same section of trail to see how it responds

Thats definitely a 2018 model then yes. I meant to say the first digit after the T not the two disgits. 19T7…. means made in week 19 of 2017.
There only needs to be a small amount of grease on/around the air piston. People tend to put way too much in when home servicing. If you think about it as soon as the air piston has travelled up the stanchion once all the excess grease just sits at the top of the stanchion. The guy at Sram Tech Centre said they put about 3ml of lower leg lube into the air chamber too to help free up slight stiction of the piston. The difference between the original Debonair assembly and the newest one is that the base plate has a DU bush in it where the shaft goes through. This helps support the air shaft under fork flex and lets it move more freely. Might be worth fitting one as you’re bigger than average weight and the fork is a 29er so will have more fore and aft flex than say a 27 or 26 fork. Don’t be tempted to put more than the reccomended volume of oil in the lowers. It’ll achieve nothing and may restrict the travel. (10ml each side lower leg oil for a Pike)

First and foremost just get it professionally serviced. Will make a world of difference if its been well used

The first two digits of the serial number tell you what week it was made, the two numbers after the T tell you what year. If yours is a B1 model it will already have a Debonair air assembly. How much do you weigh and what travel is the fork?

I stand corrected! They show a Charger and a Motion Control on their service docs but only a Motion Contol version on their global website (how odd?)
Considering you already have a charger damper i’d suggest €200 could be better spent elsewhere on the bike to make noticeable gains. If it were possible to do a blind ride test (not advised!) I bet no one would be able to tell the difference between a Charger and a Chager 2.1

Hi chrisrobs1, The part you need is 00.4118.159.021 for the lower end of the shock.
This is 50mm offset mounting pin and the two black spacers (one longer than the other as the pin sits off-set)
You would also need a 12.7mm standard DU bush.
The mounting hardware at the top of the shock can’t develop play or wear as its a Trek-specific part and is a solid press fit into the eyelet and is not a moving part

What fork are you servicing? Most modern Fox and Rockshox only require tiny amounts of grease on a full service as its only needed on the air piston and a smear in the stanchion where the air piston runs. The rest of the lubrication is via damping oil or open bath oil.
A 30ml/1oz pot of Sram Butter or Slick Honey is enough for at least 10 services on most forks

Just to clarify with sam1988,
Make sure that you’re not getting confused as to what damper you currently have in your Revelation. The 2019 Revelation RC came with a Motion Control compression damper not a charger damper as you state. The adjuster lever looks the same as a Charger RC but thats where the similarities end. Hope this helps you decide

Common issue on the Revelation 35mm. The Sram Tech Centre offer great aftersales support and they’d resolve that I’m sure.

If its a 2018 fork and you’ve owned from new then it will be within its 2 year warranty period. This may be compromised if you’ve been dismantling the fork yourself though. Lots of the 35mm Revelations had issues with the base of the compression damper window snapping and becoming jammed in the locked setting. Your best bet is to get the fork back to Sram Tech Centre for inspection.

Have a look on google image for some real world pics rather than relying on catalogue pics

If your Fox 36 has the little clock-dial plate on the right hand dropout then you need QR Axle 820-09-013-KIT. If you have the type of dropouts that have two pinch bolts on each dropout then you cant fit a QR axle.

Thanks, Cane Creek and DT i’d prefer to steer clear of. Might have to go down the Rockshox route. Hopefully they’ll ship over seas.I know many places have area restrictions on certain brands. Seems utter bonkers that Fox have confirmed they don’t make that size.

Cool. Could you share a link?

Whoa! This thread has got out of hand from the off! ;-)
They’re not closing/going bust. Its public knowledge their profits have taken a huge hit in recent years. Down to 1.8million according to online documents but that doesnt mean they’re going bust. Big highstreet chains have gone into the red my multiple millions before going into liquidation – Evans are still very much in the Green. Whether you love Evans or hate them (I’m not a big fan t be honest) the truth is the industry relies heavily on the huge retailers like them. Brands like Brompton, Specialized and Trek probably get 30-40% of their UK sales through Evans so the industry as a whole would suffer greatly of they ceased trading.

But back to the original point – They’ve seen a drop in profits yes, but they’re not in the red. I think the news story gave an insight and now everyones minds have run wild and Chinese whispers has lead to “did you know Evans is going bust” which is quite laughable really. Its owners aren’t happy with the profits so they’re looking to sell it. Seems sensible. But I guess its wouldn’t be a typical forum without everyone getting stuck into a big drama and blowing everything out of proportion! Hahaaaa !

mikewsmith, I guess you didn’t actually look at that link? Pretty much every common service part and lubricants are sold out :roll:

Hi golfgtdude, You’ve spoken to some professional fork service places and they recommend using 10wt? They’re right! :-)
Thats exactly what fox used until last year when they brought out the 20wt Gold. Buy a good quality 10wt or even 15wt and it’ll be absolutely fine. After all its purely for lubrication of the bushes and not the damping. The type of bushes in the fork and the stanchions haven’t changed in donkeys years. If you want to be brand loyal then try and buy the Fox 10wt Green. Hope this helps

My logic for posting a comment on that Facebook photo was that its their most recent Facebook post and its not actually possible to post a on their page apart from as a comment to one of their posts.
They’ve disabled direct messages and the ability for people to start topics

Thats incorrect. Mojo only sold Aftermarket Fox products. OE stuff that comes on a full bike would have been fitted at the country of manufacturing which for most brands is definitely not the UK. I guess brands like Orange and Cotic may be the exception to this.

I can see a lot of people being left in the lurch here. Likely example being this:
Customer has warranty issue, shop they bought it from have nowhere to send for the warranty, customer may kick up a fuss and demand a new item, shop have nowhere to buy a new item as the distributor no longer exists.

Couple of things worth noting.
1. Rockshox have a 2 year warranty
2. There’s a high chance that its due to a scratched/poorly machined air rod
3. Sram warranty centre offer great customer support.

Providing you’re the original owner I’d get them sent to Rockshox for warranty assessment. Worst case scenario is they say its due to lack of servicing at which point you can make a choice to pay for repair or have them back un-serviced. A warranty inspection isn’t going to cost anything so well worth going down that route first before you start paying for repairs or start pulling them apart yourself.