Thanks George, but No thanks. I don’t actually own an XTR crankset at the moment. I like the look and weight but would not want to be tied to expensive XTR chainrings as I replace chainrings every 6 months. I’m just wondering if I did get an XTR crank arms, could I put XT rings on it?

I have to disagree with the OP too, I use Hope 2 evo and non evo on my bikes and they have been very reliable, bearing changes after years and miles of abuse that’s all.. The Singlespeed hubs haven’t been open yet after 18 months and some 1800 miles.

Hey, I’m the ‘OP’ and I’m just asking the question – not offering opinions.

Yes I DID mean the newest 40 point engagement version. Btw, I googled it an found a blog that suggested Hope have designed in compatibility for possible future Shimano 11 speed cassetes.

I should add that I currently have a Stans ZTR 330 rear which has just gone Kaput. On the whole I’ve found it runs smoother than previous Hopes but I seems to require more maintenance than Hope.

Anyway I’m just asking if the newest Hope is the best thing in that price bracket or is it the DT Swiss 350 or something else?

Thanks guys – I’d heard some good reports of those. My LBS was reccommending Wheels Components but I hadn’t heard of them.
Basically I want something that doesn’t have to be knocked out and re-pressed for bearing changes.

Any one tried the Chris King PF30 and conversion kit #2 for 24mm spindle?

Anyone up for a Hampshire STW ride to stop me getting lost?

Check out http://www.newforce.org for occasional weekday-daytime rides New Forest (like yesterday’s). Also there are 3 or 4 weekday evening groups, and Sunday 10.00am every second week.

Got-to Got-to Got-to keep that rear traction so don’t stand onthe steep loose bits – even if like to stand when climbing. Get yer bum on the front of the saddle, get ur chin low and forward get ur wrists and elbows down. Feel that rear wheel grip the ground as you spin those pedals smooth as you can. Maybe even lower your tyre pressure if you’re still loosing traction.

Hey John,

Crud Catcher front and rear are keeping my ass reasonably clean at the moment.

I live in Lordswood and have occasionally gone out with ‘Thursday Night Posse’ boys. They are capable riders and LURVE the mud – which is just as well cos there’s lots of very sticky mud, roots and deep ditches in there LOL. It’d be quite tough work (especially at this time of year) for someone who doesn’t ride regularly and is not fit.

If you’re looking for a more relaxed riding (avoiding too much the mud), then I’d reccommend the Forest between Ashurst and Beaulieu. There’s loads of non-techie, not-too-muddy riding from Ashurst to Bucklers Hard and back (about 27 miles.)

If you can cope with a bit more mud and a bit hillier, then the Millyford Bridge, Stoney Cross, Red Shoot side is good to – Maybe taking in Fritham, Frogham too.

I’m regularly out in those areas during the week at the moment so I can tell you (so long as your not seeking technical thrills) there’s lots of nice rideable trails to get you out in the fresh air.

Timmy (Old Git 52 with 1 x 10 LOL) :D

ps. Forgot to mention: Funtington/Kingley Vale has great riding and is not far from you. I went there a lot there in the summer but haven’t been since the weather turned so don’t know what it’s like in the wet.

Easy – SDG Bel Air Ti (mine’s black & white) :D

Blimey – now your askin LOL. I was going to Ebay them. I’ve got the pair and they have braided hoses and sintered pads installed. They were on my bike and working fine this morning. The guy at the bike shop said maybe I’d get £100 but before he said that I was thinking about £80. I’ve got one 160mm saw-toot rotor of the plain NON-floating type. Tim

1 X 10 (Singlespeed for wimps?)

Calm down ST, I’m merely pointing out that it’s pretty unlikely that a crop different branded 8-speed narrow/wide chainrings is going to appear on the market. I suppose come to think of it, people like Works Components or Hope may do some limited runs if enough peeps request it.

I agree about spinning-out with small chainrings. I’m not planning to use mine for major marathons or sportives. I’m just ‘winter-ising’ my 29er hardtail in the expectation of a lot of muck over the next few months. For the big stuff I’ve got me full-sus with a million gears. :D

No problem with order I’m pleased to say. Order Tues with Paypal and arrived today. Can reccommend the purchasing side of things. It’s now fitted and looking very stealthy. Whether or not I’ll be able to get up steep hills is another question though. LOL ;-)

Just had an email saying mine has been disatched. I’ve got a clutch mech so I’ll be ready to go. Gonna fit a new chain too.

Simon I know where you’re coming from with your wish for 28T but I think I’d rather push a few hills than be spinning-out all the time. I think the 11-speed system is beyond the budget of the casual rider (like me) at the moment.

On the 8-speed question: to be honest, I think it’s pretty impressive the chainrings work with 3 different cassette/chain standards. I think it’s asking a bit much to expect narrow/wide chainrings for 8-speed too. Surley the enabling factor of the new single chainring trend is the extra range allowed by 10 and 11 speed cassettes and chains. 8-speed is gonna be far too ‘niche’ for anyone to bother with (apart from some crazy hobby machinist in his garden shed).

So let’s get this straight. Is Chiefgrooveguru saying the Race version is more powerful than the X2 Evo? I wasn’t aware of that. I must say I like the aesthetics of the Race much better than the new version of the X2 so if the Race really has more power then I’d spend the extra dosh.

Good question. I read that 9, 10, & 11 are all good. The 11 was new one on me but 8 I don’t know about.

To Simon – I must admit I hmmm’d & haa’d over the number of teeth. I was tempted by 30T but in the end I went for the standard 32. I’ll just have to suck it and see whether I can get up the steep bits when I’m tired or there’s too little grip to stand. Where are the 38T cassets from Shimano? LOL

Fantastic – thanks everyone. Chainring ordered. Yes poon – I am a wimp too. I went for the stealth black which will look good with my black XT crank and clutch mech on my Salsa Ti frame.

BTW. I think I read on WC facebook that they say their anodiser can do dark green but their customers prefer a light green. Personally I love the rich green of the Chris King green headset. Now that would be a cool look. :D

So what about the braided hoses – is there a big advantage? I’ve got me on both my Minis and my X2 Evo never done a comparison with the plain hose.

Halo’s?? I think they make some sexy red ones that make good tubeless.

You’ll be wanting the multiple pot versions and bigger rotors. I ride X2 183mm front/160mm rear. You might want M4 or V4 with 203/183. If you’re looking to prioritise power over feel and modulation then you might even look at the competion too. I’n omly familar with Hopes myself so I’m not got any reccommendations about that.

Thanks for all the replies. My feeling is that I’ve had the Hope Minis new in early 2008. They’ve been on various bikes and they’ve been pretty damn reliable and feel good. I’ve had X2 Evos on my Salsa for 18 months and they feel like a worthwhile step up from the Minis. Yes the Formulas look great and are tempting but I know the Hopes will be pretty hassle free. I see tons of posts complaining about problems with other brakes but almost never Hopes so I guess i’ll go for Hope.

The question is whether to go for the latest Tech 3 re-design though.

Yeah – so who’s got some Tech 3’s then – are they as good or better than the previous X2 Evo? C’mon guys – only one response so far!

Is it possible to get the Edge 200 route plot onto an O.S. 1/25000 map like you can with the posher models?

Just stayed in Brecon Holiday Cottage in Crickhowell and it it was fatanstic. You’ve got the canal path right there if some of your guys aren’t up for big hills. If you do like the hills then you can spin along the canal to Talybont and head up the Brinmore Tramway – load of excellent riding from there. There’s also the bikepark at Merthyr (about an hour’s drive). You could also stay near Afan which has easy trails as well as tough ones.

Don’t worry eskay, I started SLOW! I guess you’re right about the different muscles though. Walking, I felt I could carry on for miles but after 35 miles of riding, I guess my cycling muscles had just had enough.

The more you go out, the more juice you’ll have. When 20 miles starts to feel short and somehow unsatisfactory, then do some more! :D

[/quote]Nope 27″ is where its at!

O.M.G. – a NEW wheel size to argue about! 8O

On a related issue – I DID have mud clearance problems with my 26″ Reba forks. The Reba’s arch was much closer to the tyre than on Revs or Fox forks. This was about 3 years back and I replaced the Rebas with Rev’s. I was wondering if current Rebas are still tight or whether they’ve had a design tweek?

“Oh Sorry about that – She’s 9 years old and won’t change now – bikes are very different these days from when I used to ride.”

Finally, he’s small with small overheads

From Cotic demo days and AQR weekends, I seem to remember he’s about 6’2″ :D

Nope – waterproof shorts are great – a sopping wet sore arse on a long ride is NOT something you want!

I think they are discontinued now – but DON’T get the Endura Stealth 3/4 shorts. They were expensive but all the seam tapes came unglued and so I’d find white tapes hang out of the legs every ride, and the pockets went through in about 2 rides. Other Endura stuff has been great but those particular shorts were appalling.
Good Luck!

Ah this thread could have been written by my buddy Jeff who used to obsess over Nicolais and owned a Helios AC and CC at the same time. His current bugbear is the replacement of 26″ wheels.
Get at used Flux or 5-spots – there are loads about and they ride even better.

Roverpig, you can’t say that because your 29er hardtail is less secure downhill than your 26inch susser – that it’s the wheels size that’s responsible. I was hoping my El-Mariachi Ti would totally replace my DW Flux but it just can’t. When the speed gets high and the surface bumpy enough the El-Mar just can’t stay calm and in control like the Flux. Wheel size can only go so far in replacing suspension. In most situations the 29er hartail does a great job but it’s not a miracle worker.

I had a 2009 Superlight for a couple of years. I personally found it a huge improvement over the top 853 hartail I previously rode. That hardtail was pretty great, but the Superlight gave me more speed and confidence downhill and breezed over rough trail sections compared with the hardtail. Another feature was climbing steep loose stuff – the single pivot seemed to dig in and grip really well.
PS. The guy is right about the DW Flux but then it’s a lot more money. If you can afford a couple of hundred extra for a used DW frame or even HL frame then do it. If not them the SL is also a great bike with cheaper maintenance.

Another vote here for the looks of that On-One – Very Businesslike. :D

Anyway – how about cheapie comfortable bikes? Any more thoughts on the real bargains around?

Thanks for your replies everyone – lots to think about. I smiled at your post antigee as I have a 2011 Salsa El-Mariachi Ti myself. I’m all off-road at the moment. Another Ti bike would be a bit rich for me.
Any more ideas gang? :D

Don’t know if it’s local for you but I did manage to demo a bike from Mountain Trax in Wokingham. They charge 40 quid which allows you to demo as many bikes as you like within a month. They let me take an Aluminium Tallboy away for a couple of days midweek.
Like you though I did find that the bikes tend to be large – (and even with inline post and 70mm stem it still didn’t feel right). Anyway they had a list of demo bikes on the website – I think they had a very nice looking carbon Whyte 29er hardtail in medium. Good Luck :D

Great thread for us wimps thinking of ‘Roadie-ing’!
I had the same darkside thoughts a few years back and got myself a stiff ‘fast’ road bike on ebay (big double chainset, ultra skinny high pressure tyres, proper road shoes and pedals. I hated it and put the whole bastard lot back on ebay a couple of months later.
On the basis of that disaster, I have some ideas to share with other wimps like myself.
Be good to yourself – leave the pain to the masochists. Here’s what you want:
Cyclocross frame (more cofort & you could do some smoothish offroad)
Wider tyres (28/35c – maybe some tread even – NOT 100psi)
Triple chainset and cassett with 27 or 28 teeth so you don’t explode your knees and lungs on Ditchling Beacon and Brassknocker Hill)
SPDs (not bonkers road shoes & cleats)
Nice comfy Saddle (SDG Bel-Air or Charge Spoon)
Set a target (a not too tough sportive like London Brighton) to work towards. If you become a monster then you may end riding a Chainreaction Sportive at Ruthin or similar suicial events.

My brother has a grey Pace Event shell (used by the Cotic/AQR team) he reckons it’s the best compromise in terms of breathability and waterproofing. When I’ve borrowed it, I found it a lot less sweaty than my Endura Convert (which ain’t bad btw). Not sure they even make them now – you’ll have to call Pace.

You’ll get used to the easy twisting-out action in no time – then you won’t even want to unclip cos you’ll be doing track stands at the traffic lights. Seriously, I fall off regularly and being locked-in is never an issue.

I’d say make sure you get a test ride beore you buy. From my reaserch, I thought the TB aluminium would be just the bike for me, but I had a test ride and really didn’t like it. It was a large but I asked the shop (mountain trax) to fit an inline post and 70mm stem. They reccommeded setting pro-pedal on (except for descending). They were really helpful and let me take it away for a couple of days to ride my usual trails. Despite all this, I felt it was saggy, hard work to pedal, and slow to steer. I suspect part of the problem was the large size. I’m still puzzling over it as I really was expecting to like it.
I’m not knocking the Tallboy (Remember this was the aluminium version), I’m just saying Test Ride before you jump in.
Tim