If the lock ring is off and the sprocket is for the bin, try clamping the sprocket teeth between two pieces of wood in a vice so that the wheel is horizontal and the teeth bite into the wood. Turn the wheel like a steering wheel, but only if the sprocket is for the bin, and don’t tighten the vice more than you need to or you’ll bend something

“Units of alcohol” is health-related rather than driving-related
milligrams and micrograms are driving-related

You can’t equate the two, we’re all different. The legal limit is what it is, but you could be unsafe as a driver at below the limit and, because alcohol is a depressant, not even know it

“Well I feel great after a few”, because it depresses your inhibitions. Simples

Local bike shop scrap bin, might have one from when a cassette was replaced
I think that the diameter is similar to a BB spacer as well. Shimano do a 1.8mm, worth a chat at the LBS as to the possibilities

What’s the problem with reporting this?
Police can either be waiting at the owner’s address, breath box in hand (quick radio call) or stop him on the road
How do we know whether it’s his first or his eighth?
I’d rather not be on the same road as him while he’s drinking from a can and possibly not having full control over his driving, or worse…

Approached a ford, plenty of warning signs about cyclists falling off
Good knobbly tyres, should be no problem, I thought
Finished the ride with a bleeding knee and green slime-coated side

How is it seized, can’t swing it back?
5mm allen key: Undo the top pivot bolt attaching the mech to the hanger, you should be able to drop the wheel out now.
Squirt some lube into the top pivot bolt from both sides and re-assemble, see page 42 (onward) here…X0
Hopefully that’s it. The job’s easier with the chain removed. You might need to remove the top bolt completely to do a proper job

I think that the freewheel remover is deeper than a cassette lockring remover, and that’s if the splines are the same
Ring SJS (if you’re buying from them) they’ll advise you. The remover is <£3
You won’t need a chain whip, just a vice or big spanner ParkTools

Be careful using anything, including the frame, for additional leverage

ParkTools
Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda or lye) will attack aluminium (and human tissue!), so don’t use that

For the next time you need to guard against galvanic corrosion, carbon fibre and aluminium don’t play well together in some environments. Consider an aluminium seatpost with your aluminium frame, but whatever material you choose periodically remove and refit the seatpost

Cup and cone are a little more difficult to set up, bit of trial and error to get play correct off and, more importantly, on the bike
About the same faff involved in re-greasing both
Parts for either may be off the shelf, or not
Cup and cone have stood the test of time

Google “fastener suppliers” for your town and pop in. My local will sell one item, and you can get the threadlock there too

You could consider just a new set of bearings, approx £13
Just Google the part number shown Compatibility

S. Derbys
Gunwom
Gunwok
Street up the strate (similar to grayn peent)

I’m going to my place of abode
I’m going to my place of work
Directions, follow the road ahead (green paint)

Sorry should read “only two that are tight” doh!

IIRC, and I might not, the largest sprockets are in a block of three so you shouldn’t get only two that are loose, the others are separate.
Take the sprockets off, clean up and put it back together.
Make sure the lockring matches (11T and 12T available) and torque it back up HTH

Occasional use; adjustable spanner, adjust to fit the tube, ruler. There can be some play/inaccuracy in an adjustable though…

Is the 48T ring Shimano? Is it fitted the correct way around?
Is the mech moving freely across its full range?

Faster payment can send up to £100,000 electronically and should clear within two hours Bank limits
I paid for my car like that, just ring your bank beforehand if it’s over £10K. And the transaction was free
Check what the bank actually charges for CHAPS, there my be some additional fees added by the solicitor that are worth querying

Someone here has the DIY approach, seriously good engineering too belt 2014
and an earlier one here belt 2012

http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/can-i-put-24t-chainring-shimano-2×10-yes-784175.html

My bearings just fit into the headtube, no cups (from new)
You’ll need to look at the fork steerer collets to see if they’re suitable
There are several threads on this for different Spesh models, e.g. http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12922394&p=18322476

What do you need to replace?
My 2010 has two sealed bearings, a collet top and bottom and a cover. It’s impossible to diagnose the fault from here but replacing the two bearings may well fix it, see here… http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/Frame—Road-Frame-Compatibility-Guide.pdf for details

I get this depending on which shoes I wear. My road shoes (smooth soles) are fine, my MTB shoes with moulded-in tread sometimes pull out.
I guess that the tread interferes slightly with the cleat/pedal locking

Page 24 onwards here? http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/_tS80WVr6sZM53V33oqH0EOixhbz3OjQhDhsOemm8NA/mtime:1372788169/sites/default/files/techdocs/2012_sram_extdt_wheel_hub_spc_rev_c_0.pdf

Ring them, they’re always very helpful IME

This email from a product manager at SRAM reproduced as a forum post. Chain cleaning is towards the bottom…http://rbentonline.org/YaBB.pl?num=1223403221

Decathlon +1. Much cheaper.

Quick google search should tell you

Penicillin?

My experience is that the phone battery can be limited as compared to a GPS, and I’d rather have the phone fully charged for making that “Come and get me” call
The GPS is possibly more rugged and waterproof, but that’ll depend on your phone
My personal choice is an Etrex 30, but the Etrex 20 is less money, you can use them for walking, etc, as well
The Etrex can use both GPS and GLONASS satellites so keeps a signal very well

The CBS that I know of (may not be the one referred to above) has a totally different web address to its name… http://www.carboncyclerepairs.co.uk/index.html

I AM going to make it, we’ve had builders here for the last fortnight so I can’t get into the garage to sort a mechanical, and leaving the MTB outside hasn’t helped (dark-side roadie is in the kitchen, treasonous I know)

This doesn’t directly help your headset problem and I can’t see if your fork crown is drilled for a brake/mudguard bolt.

One of these will give a bit more space up top if that helps your choice of headset http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b82s101p1809 and should reduce front brake judder too

I’m sorry that this doesn’t help you now, but try a protective case on it (hopefully it’ll be found) and make a hole in the case for a lanyard looped around your bars/stem

Sorry I couldn’t help more. Mine’s a 2010, there’s a barcode label under the toptube. FWIW mine has a Cane Creek headset as well

Don’t know if this helps http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/new/assets/pdf/CC0280_2013_RevB.pdf scroll by year and then model
and the full range of manuals here http://service.specialized.com/collateral/ownersguide/ just apply the red filters

This table http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions#rim

(4th and 5th sections down the page-read both sections)

Can’t see the vid, if you have SPDs could be the cleat/shoe/pedal interface (good Sunday word)

This tape from Aldi @ £2.99. Cheap enough to build up to whatever thickness https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/thursday-13th-march/product-detail/ps/p/all-weather-tape/

This, and only $14 http://www.amazon.com/Retro-26-wheel-Speedometer-NEW/dp/B000CSKBBS