To be fair, the last bar on the battery scale is 0-49% so it’s not THAT helpful 🙂

Although I tend to recharge when I feel the assistance drop off

Having had mine on a power supply and adjusted the voltage, it sits on full bars until the battery is at about 50%.

My battery had a seperate indicator, which is fortunate (and theoretically a Bluetooth module but I can’t get the app to work.)

I can get 40 miles but not pushed it further than that

After suffering frozen and/or wet feet or pain in the arse overshoes for 3 years, it was worth it for me

Well I was sort of right 🙂

Just picked up some new MW5s. Only commuted in them so far but warm, haven’t leaked l, fit well and you can get the cleats well back, which is a bonus

Weird. Not had that! It must be dropping off the bottom end of the measurement. Does it do it when set to MPH?

Maybe it’s not picking up a reading at lower speeds. Try moving the sensor so it’s closer to the magnet

Padded liner, unpadded tights and if it a cold or wet, waterproof shorts to avoid a cold crotch

I do have some padded DHB 3/4 bibs for long winter rides that work well with long socks. Leg warmers if needed. I don’t currently own any bib tights come to think of it

Unpadded works well for commuting as well – I don’t bother with padded liner shorts as less than 10 miles, so normal boxers and same top layers. Less kit to wash

Or at the BB

Give it time 🙂 I’m sure adding another 10kg to it and riding it through another winter will be fine

It’s bastardised anyway. 6 speed, slicks, full mudguards, did have Mary bars on it, now it’s electrified.

It’s better as a commuter than it was as an MTB to be honest. Didn’t really like it as a SS MTB. Unforgiving and not a lot of fun.

Some crap photos I took ages ago. The sheds a mess!

Careful and of overheating it in Turbo. You can kill them with heat if you are pulling load, especially if it’s 36v battery. Mines 48v and a 10 mile sprint back from the pub had it uncomfortably hot, and that wasn’t even grinding up hills. I use mine in sport 99% of the time and it’s fine. Feels more natural as well.

You can run an under bb cable but may have to dremel down the plastic guide. However, I’d be tempted just to run a full outer and route it around the motor.

16 is 16 amp current limit. You can go higher but risk burning it out. Depends what battery is rated at as well.

I’ve left the current limit and sensitivity as default. It’s plenty fast enough and should protect the motor and maintain usable range. My battery BMS may make it behave differently to yours though

Yeah. It’s tempting to cut the cables short but then you are screwed if you want to change the frame or move the battery. I (well a friend) soldered and heat shrunk the main battery cables so there was a good solid and watertight connection.

I’ll take some pics of my setup later, although I haven’t really sorted the remote cable out yet. It was difficult to get them setup so they weren’t just wicking water into the motor

I wouldn’t hang that much weight on 2 bottle bosses – I could see them pulling out or just damaging the frame. Mine moved slightly as it was. When you ride over anything rough it’s an awful lot of force going through the bosses

To be honest id be a bit nervous about electrifying a frame I cared about 🙂

When the rig eventually fails (I had to ‘relieve’ the EBB shell to get the motor to fit) I’ll be on the lookout for a cheap steel 29er and getting the workshop to weld a plate on the downtube to attach the battery 🙂

You should have a splitter cable in the kit. The second port is for 6v lights that are switched from the head unit

I went for an E3MV battery (13.6 ah 48V) as the standard one from PSW wouldn’t fit in my frame.

Make sure you loctite the bolts up once you happy with the position of the motor.

Two torrential rain commutes in the last 2 weeks with no issues. I should probably do some maintenance on the bike generally at some point.

The derating seems to just be a feature of cheaper kits with less fancy BMS and motor controllers. Friends hub drive does it a bit as well. Mines not too bad.

Keep the tyres nice and hard!

How are you attaching the battery? You need more than just bottle bosses…

I wrapped mastic tape around the frame, jubilee clipped on 2 Topeak bottle boss adaptors (4 clips) and used these to bolt down with 4 bolts. Has been really good. I should do something to cover up the clips, but it’s a commuter so I couldn’t care less

£700 for a hub-motor is an awful lot. What’s up with the original one?

Been fairly dry commutes so far. Couple of wet ones and no ill effects.

I think the frame will fail first anyway. Not many 1st generation rigs around as I think a lot snapped at the downtube due to the weird built in stress risers 😉

I’ve ridden one and really didn’t get it for trail riding. The undamped nature of the ride was off-putting.

Would love to try one in snow or sand though…but living in the South of England…

I couldn’t be bothered with changing chains. Same/similar cassette onnsach wheeler and it was fine. You could even shim the rotors so the discs were spot on on both, although mind were fine

I’ve just clicked up to 500 miles on my TSDZ2 with no issues in about 10 weeks.

Did think I had a bit of a derating issue, but it seems to have gone away.

With all the weight it’s very sensitive to tyre pressure. Drag is really noticeable if get too low

But generally – 32 spoke, 3 cross, double butted spokes, eyeletted rims, brass nipples

I always understood that radial builds need hubs specifically designed for it as it puts stress onto the flange at a significantly different angle (it’s not braced by the opposing spoke). Danger of breaking the flange…

I can see Biden convincingly winning the popular vote, and winning across the board in states…but losing because of interference with the mail voting and the electoral college.

And then, civil unrest

It would n-w-w-w-n wouldn’t it?

Either way, I shan’t bother 😉

It’s got a tensioner but is a bit of chain stretch of being able to take a link out

Thanks

I really like these. Seem great for when it’s grim out. Expensive but then so is a decent jacket. On my want list for commuting and trails, and be great for bike parks.

I know a normal halflink won’t work 🙂 hence talking about a ‘wide’ derivative

It’s to get better tension on single speed without spending on a new chainring

zezaskar
Free Member
With Lyriks frequently popping out at these prices I wonder why people really bother to pay the Fox admission fee

Because kashima…

Someone mentioned to me that they can’t believe all expensive bikes don’t come with it…

I’m quite happy with my Pikes

I’ve got the 65mm SKS chromoplastics on my 29er commuter with 2″ slicks. Not a huge amount of room to spare but fine

That’s really cool. Thanks!

It seems to exist to allow for shite manufacturing tolerance on the adaptor and/or brake. You may get away with just spacing it out if you don’t have 4 sets of the CPS washers

Do SRAM brakes not need the tri-align washers? (e.g old canti brake pad conical washers) – They add about 5mm of height…

Ships and manufacturers clear their stick down at basically btrade occasionally. Same reason TK Maxx exists (or planet x 🙂 )

I’ve never had touch up paint or a headset as standard though!

Apart from the Endura and Dirtlej ones, I’ve not seen anything else suitable.

There is a commuting one (can’t remember the name) but it’s lighter weight

Sand paper around 7mm drill bit and do it by hand

dantsw13
Free Member
So cases starting to rise, and hospitalisations following as predicted.

How long until we run out of PPE again? I have ZERO faith that we have sensibly stockpiled for the winter.

Don’t worry. There will be lots of new companies that may or may not be linked to Tory MPs ready to take payment to not deliver PPE

I’m very interested. Enjoyed modern 29ers I have ridden but I’m short and don’t have big long levers to move a bigger bike around.

If I could mullet my 27 Jeffsy without ballsing up the geo…offset bushes to simulate a slightly shorter e2e shock perhaps…

Chainstays aren’t in compression though? Less bending force applied

tpbiker
Free Member
Just read p-jay’s post.

As much as I want folks to abide by the rules to protect my mid 70s folks, it’s hard to argue with anything he’s posted there.

Yep. I’ve hardly seen my parents as my dad in particular is very high risk. Xmas is going to be hard this year.

But it is difficult to sympathise with those people (mainly older generation s) whose complaint is they aren’t making as much on their savings and investments when the younger generation is at risk of eviction or defaulting on their mortgages, all in an effort to keep the older generation alive…

The WFH statement seems pointless unless it’s enforced. You can only work from home if your employer allows you to…

My employer has spent thousands on ‘covid-safing’ the offices in order to bring people back in to the office. Letting them stay at home would have been cheaper and safer

This government seems to have absolutely zero understanding of how an economy actually functions

I think they do, they just don’t care about anyone apart from themselves

Lumi ones fit 35mm. Perhaps not snug against the stem (can’t remember)

I kinda like that…

But then again I had a KNine and thought that looked fine 🙂

Yeah works fine

I’ve got the same derating issue on my TSDZ2, but I’m using an EM3EV battery and the connections are all soldered. It seems to be throttling power quite early in the battery life as I can get another 20 miles out of it at that point!