Which fabric one is the closest to a charge spoon?

I’d check facing is the issue before forking out to get it done. See if a local engineer can check the concentricity

Vitus Mythique or Cube Stereo?

Oh yeah there are no hard and fasts, but just making life easier makes riding easier.

Basically, avoid anything that stops you going out the door.

It’s an interesting side effect to the loss of a granny ring.

On lots of suspension designs the suspension would naturally firm up in the granny ring because of the relative location of the pivot to the chain – it added pedal feedback but this would mean pedal induced bob was actively resisted rather than isolated (as modern designs try to do)

If you are see sawing your weight all over the place and causing the suspension to bob, then that’s not particularly efficient anyway, and that’s a different thing to suspension movement caused by pedalling action. Climbing out of the saddle is exhausting!

Sit and spin and let the suspension do its job.

Dropper posts are probably the best thing in MTB in recent memory for me.

Couldn’t live without one for any sort of tech riding now. I was forever dropping my post or riding with a compromised saddle height.

Lockouts? Barely used them when I had them…when im climbing I want the suspension to work so it can smooth of bumps and add traction

The travel drop feature on my Wotans was a much more useful feature as it lowered the front end but still kept the fork working.

Simple MTB is nothing to do with the bike, it’s how to approach your riding.

My Jeffsy isn’t a simple bike, but I can use it for pretty much any riding. A hardtail isn’t significantly easier to manage. It’s not like you need to service shock bushes weekly. My SS with an EBB was a pain in the arse in comparison

Don’t worry about Strava, cameras and other accessories.

Don’t carry enough tools and spares to furnish a medium sized bike shop.

Don’t fret about vagaries of tyre pressure or shock pressures/settings, just set em up and forget about them.

Don’t worry about having to do X miles or burn X calories

Not riding at night means less faffing with lights and no worry about getting caught out.

Get out early on a weekend for a couple of hours.. back and showered by mid morning and crack on with the day.

Fretting about what bike you have got is the antithesis of simple MTB 🙂

Secondhand, and budget for new inner and cables, chain and grips.

Facebook marketplace at that price range

Example near to me:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/136086388424955/?ref=facebook_story_share

Never used it on my Hemlock.. didn’t even realise the Jeffsy didn’t have it for a while.

Don’t see the point if you aren’t a racer who needs to sprint

.

People carrying hangers always intrigue me. The chances of hitting your mech hard enough that the hanger breaks and the mech survives are pretty slim, so at that stage the hanger is pretty irrelevant.

Ooh. May have to come over the water this year

Well, the pedal thread could be ruined

Or the pedal bearing is tight so it’s precessing and ripping out the thread (I’m not sure this is possible, and surely you would notice this)

Or you have cross threaded each one of them 🤣

Yes and no…

My cheap Amazon one is accurate enough…when it works, which is about 20% of the time. The slide mechanism is awful so the caliper can slide without it registering on the dial

Pump (CO2 can’t add a few psi and is wasteful)

Bastardised Topeak alien removing all the unnecessary tools and stuffed in a ‘cool tool’ pouch.

Tube (I haven’t got a tubeless repair kit yet)

Phone

Quick link

I can strap this to the bike easily, but I’m probably going to dig out my camelbak for this year so I can take more water and a litter picker/folding spade on local trails / jacket on bigger rides.

That’s impressive 😂

How utterly bizzare!

I see that Mullet Cycles pulled the article on VitalMTB. I guess they got a bit it upset

I can’t use Instagram, so can’t see if there is a flounce in progress sadly 😅

A simple average would have it ~30mm drop if it’s axle to axle – but the BB is closer to the rear axle so that’s too basic

Have to know the wheelbase and chainstay length to do it properly

What front and rear travel is it?

As long as it was priced appropriately (e.g.ess the cost of a sh shock) it wouldnt bother me

I think I need to sketch that out 🙂 I may have to have a play in CAD

Ok fair play, BB height isn’t as clear but on a mullet bike, but Mullet (TM) not releasing any geo details just seems very shady 🤣

As an aside, what’s the comparative norm for measuring BB drop on a mullet bike? Axle to axle or do you use relative height from one of the axles? Maybe I can mullet my Jeffsy after all?!

So, Jameso’s image suggests it’s got 0bb drop

As an example, my Jeffsy 27 (in low) has a 15mm BB drop.

A 29er fork would raise the BB about 15mm…

I wouldn’t want to share that geo either !

What was the gist of the Foes back and forth

Something about one of the Mullet bikes actually being a rebranded Mixer?

What an absolute clusterf**k that it.

No geo details, wild suspension claims that make little sense, a cringe worthy ‘attitude’ and a bike that looks 20 years old. And £2500.

Yes please, sign me up.

You would have to be certifiable

I reckon they bought some 27.5 frames out of a Taiwanese catalogue and stuck a 29er front end on them hence why they won’t share the geo as it will be awful 🤣

If you wanted a single pivot mullet bike…well there are plenty of choices that would be just fine (Starling, Orange spring immediately to mind)

The superstar chainrings are 4 Bolt and it looks like the offset is in the thickness / bolts rather than at the teeth to clear the motor

You can, but they come stock with an offset chainring to improve the chainline

After a new offset 42 max chainring. Has anyone seen a source that isn’t £85?!

Yep. Like the old days of square taper where the LH crank would always stretch its taper, and no number of coke can shims would help. Once the taper is worn, the crank is toast.

It looks a bit like the bearing race isn’t quite seated

You are unlikely to seat it by tightening the headset- you will just crush the bearing

Remove the fork and gently tap round its perimeter with a hammer and punch or screwdriver – on the lip! not the bearing face itself.

The fork crown / steerer interface may have a lip on it so it may well be seated correctly.

Most bearing races for cartridge bearings are split designs nowadays (so I’ve found), so they just press on (or a hacksaw!)

Nobeer

Same. Replaced BB7s and just better.

Zip tie

If the bolts are tight (and not sheared!) and the axle itself isn’t moving, then the crank or the axle will be toast.

The axle is steel as far as I know, so likely the LH crank spline is gone. If the spline is stripped no amount of loctite will hold it in place.

Its a weird one!

Check how much crank is actually on the spline. I knackered an slx crank in the same way by rushing to put a bike together and putting too many BB spacers in which meant there was only a small amount of spline in the crank. Crank ripped off.

Removing the spacers gave it enough spline to work without slipping

Due to the new regulations (and the lack of planning) my OHs essential medical equipment (via NHS but from Germany) is now held at customs because it contains hazardous goods…a bottle of alcohol gel is in the box. There is no system in place to manage this.

Completely foreseeable, and puts her at risk. Thanks BoJo, you lying moron.

I strapped my knee for a while a few years back after knackering my knees playing 5-a-side. Noticed it during impacts or twisting rather than when pedalling. Nearly had a big stack at Antur as a result as my knees would just buckle on the rocks and drops.

Strapping up my knees under my pads helped a lot

Physio sorted it in the end, and funnily enough, running!

Solution looking for a problem.

I think having multiple John Smith’s in this instance is the issue.

Try lookup instead of vlookup?

Trim function is useful to get rid of errant spaces

I’ve had this..

I made a worksheet of source data. Duplicated this and added lookups that worked perfectly. I then duplicated this sheet (all the formatting and data was exactly the same as a result). The new lookup sheet one didn’t work despite being a copy of the first and linking to the same source (as it was a copy).

If I copy the identical cell from the source data in to the new worksheet as the lookup criteria it works fine with no other changes.

Makes absolutely no sense. I’m assuming it’s a bug.

I’ve got BB7s on my SS. Pokey enough if set up properly but they are fiddly to setup and need attention.

Even basic deore level hydros are far far better in every regard

Found E1 & E2 a tough watch and nearly gave up, but E3 is starting to get the main story going properly. I’m hooked now, but I wonder if a lot of more casual viewers would have binned it off.

Like someone up there said, can absolutely see what they are doing, but it’s a brave bet to make 2 almost unwatchable episodes in order to build the narrative 😄

I usually like the Disney model of releasing week at a time. But for this series I think binging it could work quite well so all the little cues are fresh in your mind.

Followed all the MCU stuff, but never read a comic, so I’m finding watching some Easter egg videos after the episodes useful…