A friend who had had an electric fat bike recommended against an e-hardtail unless it’s just for gentle terrain.

With the extra weight you lose the ‘skippability’ of a hard and the ride can be quite brutal over rough stuff as a result.

Certainly when I’ve ridden an e-enduro bike it’s much more of a machine to plough through stuff than my similar travel full Sus, so I can see his point.

I’ve got an ebike for commuting and the weight is very noticeable down curbs etc…

We did the southern route a few weeks back. which was quite a good climb. If the pony path is largely surfaced up to the point they meet this may be more interesting

Could be lack of oil around bushes.

Did you put oil in lowers before the second set locate or after?

Or maxle, or brake bolts.

Or it’s coincidence and it’s the headset

The fad ended.

They are a niche product that has it place but I think the novelty wore off

I cannot stand Tolkien. Just meandering largely pointless drivel. I don’t get it. It just seems poorly written and edited

Cell by Stephen King is truely abysmal.

American Psycho wasn’t terrible, but it certain wasn’t good

Otherwise:

Lovecraft is difficult – the universe he created is very interesting, but the stories themselves can be disappointing.

The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists bogs down in places but it’s quite an interesting read

I need to try Catch 22 as I loved the humour of the series, and All Quiet on the Western Front as I want to watch the film

You get an adaptor with them so it doesn’t really matter

Yep, it’s absolutely fine. The only difference is a 2x mech will generally be limited to maximum sprocket size (albeit I’ve read that GX can go to 46)

Ended up doing Penmachno, Beast (Coedy) and Cadair Idris on successive days.

Glad I borrowed an ebike as that was a lot of climbing and it was nice to have legs for the descents for once

ClimachX was good but about 10 years ago 😜

Cheers all

I’d love to explore more of the natural stuff but with limited time want to maximise bang for buck

munrobiker
Free Member
They all do it. It will do it again after it’s fixed. The real answer is to flog it and buy a One Up/PNW/Brand X post with the money once it’s been warrantied

Mine stuck down after a year of ownership. Bleed and repressure and it’s been fine for two years since.

Press fit is fine as long as the BB is good and the frame is square.

You want it as wide as you can for coverage, but if it climbs up the side of the rims too much or can stop the tyre seating and make fitment difficult.

Just up to the vertical wall of the rim has always been fine for me.

My Lidl one is fine with the battery out of the bike

If no warranty it’s an easy fix, especially on the newer ones where you can bleed it from the top

Kinda sounds like you are making an xc hardtail…

I can feel the combined drag of the idler and gearbox from here 😉

760 for trail/enduro-ey riding.

But it depends on how wide your shoulders are really!

Yeah that’s not a 4-bar. Linkage driven shock and single pivot

Some 4-bar frames don’t have a pivot on the chainstay and rely on flex in the chainstay, but that is a fixed triangle so it’s not that.

You can have fixed triangle that is swung on an upper and lower link…but that’s different again.

Without seeing it with the stem on and top cap off it’s hard to judge.

It Def sounds like something is bottoming out.

That article on cyclocosm is VERY interesting!

I’d go down. Modern bikes are usually long enough. And smaller is funner 🙂

nedrapier
Full Member
pressure gauge set to bar not psi?

That would do it.

And put the top cap into a low earth orbit

My revs did that when they were full of water!

sillyoldman
Full Member

Intrigued by CS/BB/ST junction. Looks like swingarm parts used which seems odd?

Maybe just using existing components for ease of prototyping?

27.5, but the damper may be the same.

Thanks for the offer but I wouldn’t worry as the kid doesn’t seem to care

I would think that off-road the lower bb would offset any gains from increased agility of the small wheels

29er wheels are fine. Doesn’t seem to slow the DH boys down!

A proper DH frame will feel like an absolute boat, and with shorter forks will have a very low bb.

I loved my K9 DH bike. I hated even riding it up my driveway and even at FOD it felt like a bit of a pig!

thols2
Free Member
Not servicable.
https://www.srsuntour.us/products/raidon-lo-r-cartridge

I feared as much.

Although, they aren’t overtly fast rebound, and I doubt they had much in the way of sensible compression damping in the first place.

Something you will wear is better than something you won’t 🙂

I had a 661 pressure suit but it was a bit of a pain in the arse. Then got some Motocross under armour which probably doesn’t offer enough protection.and is bloody hot.

A roost guard type vest or the bluegrass one above would be a good compromise.

That said, the motocross under armour allowed me to comfortably wear an EVS neck brace all day in Morzine.

I’ve not done much DH style riding due to arrival of my son… But now I’m nearly 40 I seem to shatter rather than bounce on impact, so next time I think some new armour would be required!

I’d love to do some big chairlift and ebike assisted enduro style riding in the morzine area. See how much you can stitch together in a day.

You can cold blu steel bolts to blacken them but it only works on uncoated steel. Nearly all off the shelf items will be coated

RG2. I use it in everything and never had an issue

As an aside. What’s the earliest go pro that is worth getting?

Mary bars are a good option for comfort, the hand position is much more natural for just riding along than your average MTB bars.

Funnily enough, I want some of the OG bars on mine. I had Mary’s but after less sweep than that, but the 720 flats on it seem to be causing some elbow pain

Yup

A small distortion is easy

If the rim is bent or flat spotted it gets more difficult

I ran 200mm rotors on 2 pot SLX on my DH bike and it was absolutely fine at Revo and in Morzine, even on Porridge

I’d say ultimately the main thing you want is Full coverage mudguards and some slicks (partly so full mudguards will fit).

Getting soaked by spray gets old quickly when commuting and everything stays much cleaner

Otherwise, just ride it. And beware it will be wrecked in a few months as you never wash or maintain a commuter 😉

Easy, just get prepped and take your time. I find it quite relaxing

You don’t need a jig for trueing – you can do it in the bike using zip ties as reference points

Wind tension up gradually and a quarter of a turn at a time

Tighten the spokes in pairs / quads (depending on size of buckle) so you aren’t overtensioning a particular spoke